Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition

[Hellenic Vanagon]

Hello.
I seem to have run into another problem with the Murakami set up (I think) One engine that covers some miles seem to burn plugs, fast. Like, a plug dies roughly every 700 miles. Not the same cylinder. Random. Replace the plug and it runs fine again until the next one dies. Plugs are NGK BP6HS. Are we just really unlucky to get bad plugs or could something else be the problem?
Thanks
Torben

You can try a surface discharge spark plug, (I am using NGK BUE), which seems to has unlimited life with the plasma ignition. No wear signs thousands of kilometers after.

But this is not the only point of superiority for such a spark plug...

[heysoundude]

That does seem excessive. Are there Iridium equivalents you can use?
also, remember the M in MSD stands for Multi; it's possible that the multiple discharges are prematurely wearing the plugs, I suppose.
Have you considered a water injection system?

[Alstrup]

Hello.
I seem to have run into another problem with the Murakami set up (I think) One engine that covers some miles seem to burn plugs, fast. Like, a plug dies roughly every 700 miles. Not the same cylinder. Random. Replace the plug and it runs fine again until the next one dies. Plugs are NGK BP6HS. Are we just really unlucky to get bad plugs or could something else be the problem?
Thanks
Torben

[heysoundude]

This may be of interest for your ultrasonic setup: https://eagle-research.com/product/f...circuit-board/
I'm willing to wager that it could be used to monitor water level and remind you to fill the reservoir, and shut the mister off

[iEnergySupply]

Here is an update on our plasma ignition. Note, only the blue capacitors are connected. We have been experimenting with Aaron's plasma ignition system with our new pulse jet engine coupled with tesla valves used in the correct way. The plasma ignition makes a huge difference in the ability to burn whatever gas or fuel we use. I show the difference between nothing in between the gap, and something to burn in between the gap.
Here is the link

https://www.facebook.com/jeremiah.ferwerda/videos/10206324690232039/

[firozmusthafa]

Another update on torque masters spark plug:
1. Resistor TM plugs did not behave as claimed, it did not automatically break down the resistor despite of running 5000kms as opposed to claimed 200km running in
2. I ordered second set of TM plug with non resistor non projector variant after finding out equivalent NGK non resistor part number (can't believe why they couldn't suggest non resistor TM part number without me having to dig through 1000s of NGK models), this made the plasma blasts that I was after. Fuel economy is much better than resistor variant (10% better than resistor torque master, YMMV) and emissions all time lower with increased pickup and torque. With lean mixtures (by installing 105.7 vs 115 main jet) it had detonation after quite a bit of riding.
3. Longevity of these plugs I haven't tested out yet since its only 100kms I have driven in total)

My next plan is to build custom jet needle in Yoshimura multiple jet needle design style.
For this I have ordered 2mm stainless steel capillary tubes and tungsten drill bits

If I end up successfully with this design I expect better performance and much better fuel economy. Might take a month for the order to deliver and a lot of time to make the setup working after numerous trial and error.

I expect the end result to perform somewhat like in below video:

https://youtu.be/1HgXsgHSBbY

My ultrasonic experiments had to be put on hold because ultrasonic mister requires constant water level to be maintained which invites more setups like separate container with float level adjusted accurately, which I don't plan to do anytime soon because of the unavailability of small components, still searching for suitable float setup though. Ultrasonic fogger can easily melt plastic if tipped over (very risky business if not setup properly), but I will definitely try it out someday. I need to fix my fuel delivery once and for all, that's my top priority now.
Right now it's just unnecessarily wasting fuel past 3000rpm (as tested by emission testing center) even though its delivering record breaking fuel economy

[heysoundude]

That is a very good idea, and you're lucky to have such kind friends

[RB176]

Thanks Gary, a friend of mine has some Msd 8.5 Super Conductor wire with like 50 ohms per foot same thing I believe Msd recommends for the Street Fire and he said he would give me some and all I have to do is put ends on. I may give it a shot it’s free.

[heysoundude]

I wouldn't do that.

Me either - what I wrote was meant to discourage that. Change your coil instead. As for wires...well, you'll have to experiment with that yourself.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Jeremiah,

The Granatelli are 0 ohms what are the Taylor wires for resistance?

The taylor spiro-pro wire is 350 ohms/foot. It has a magnetically permeable core with a thin steel wire tightly wound around the core.

I posted the link to that old post so you could see how I installed the components on the single cylinder gen set rather than to watch the video. But glad you liked it anyway.

If you have an old cast iron K321 flat head it should be a 7/16" reach plug. I always used Champion H10 plugs in all the old cast iron Kohlers. The 1/2" reach surface gap should work great in that engine, as there is no projection beyond the end of the plug. Mechanical interference should not be a problem.

[RB176]

Gary I probably watched that video a dozen times, good stuff! The Granatelli are 0 ohms what are the Taylor wires for resistance? I think my plug has a .750 reach I’ll have to research it some. Thanks

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Jeremiah,

Any idea how hard it would be to change the cap, I’ve never had a Msd apart.

I wouldn't do that. The MSD 5520 street fire works fine with the MSD 8222 blaster coil in my single cylinder generator application. However, the Granatelli solid wire may be too low of a resistance. I'm using a Taylor Spiro-Pro wire which has a magnetic suppression core found here. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-45429/overview/

And I have a high temp, high voltage wire from the diode directly to the spark plug terminal. And I'm also using an NGK BU series surface gap plug. These come in various length reaches for a variety of different engines. I think the one that fits your engine is this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ngk-703

This setup gives me a very strong plasma and long plug life as well. Here are photos of it again, in case you missed it in one of my previous posts linked here. http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post29910

[RB176]

Heysoundude, you could be right. I’ve been really tied up with work and haven’t gotten time to do any tinkering but I hope to get back at it soon. I have the new coil already so I’m just going to swap it out since that will be the quickest way to check it. If it does or doesn’t work I’ll know if that was the problem. Any idea how hard it would be to change the cap, I’ve never had a Msd apart.

[heysoundude]

My Torquemasters have resistors, because my research has indicated that my ignition coils seem to function best with somewhat of a resistive load on them. The factory specifies ignition cables with an additional resistive load, but I put the Granatelli zero-ohm wires on to ensure that most of the energy from the coil goes to that larger spark gap, so I've basically reduced just cable losses. For more than 2yrs/60k km, I've had no troubles with the factory ignition like this. in fact, since I put the EFIE on, the radio interference noise that some people complain about with these cables seems to have largely disappeared - perhaps because the air/fuel charge is less rich, and the ignition energy doesn't have as much vapour to pass through/ignite?
You're welcome, and yes, as far as I'm concerned the EFIE is indeed necessary to prevent overfuelling when excess oxygen is detected by the sensor. Between that circuit and a similar one to yours on the intake (MAP), I was able to get my vehicle to idle (roughly! I backed my aggressive adjustments off until it smoothed out again) about 150 RPM lower than what the computer does without modification, and my fuel consumption is down or fuel economy is up ~20% (or more) depending on how you look at it. a very powerful modification for the price.

[Hellenic Vanagon]

That's quite the blog/adventure! Your spark plug research is particularly impressive. I have Torquemaster resistor plugs in my vehicle, and they have had a positive effect on how the engine runs even with a gap that is 2x what the manufacturer specifies.

While you call them lambda sensors, we call them oxygen sensors on this side of the Atlantic (and possibly elsewhere); I recently installed one of these (https://eagle-research.com/product/e...r-efie-device/) on mine and am seeing rather impressive results. You seem to already have a circuit in place (from the factory!) to balance the Manifold pressure readings, so this will help fine-tune your fuel delivery more, based on lambda.

Thank you very much!

The Torquemasters may be better without the resistors, try it if the resistors are not a must for your system.
They work better than the conventional J strap spark plugs because:

#1 With 2x gap take advantage of the "coil voltage reserve", as you can see here, (second row, second graph):


#2 They do not have the very restrictive ground strap.
#3 They emit energy at 360° at the horizontal axis vs the 180° of the surface discharge type.

On the other hand, the surface discharge spark plugs offer better contactivity, since the arc prefers a surface discharge and they are an industry
standard.

The Eagle research EFIE seems as a must and I am considering it.

As for the lambda or oxygen terminology, both are Greek words, λάμδα - οξυγόνο, so both are correct equally, don't worry.


The Syncro Heresy