How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[nickle989]

Tom, the main original questions have yet to be answered, there are no circles that I can see ... on the results that you see with your own what are you you powering? If you have some vids I would be glad to go look.

Thanks

[Branch Gordon]

Just ordered a cheap glass blender off of amazon. I have been running curves on my two alum battery converts...but I don't think I got it right still per my earlier posts and comments from Tom.

Will be making up another mix as soon as blender arrives....

Thanks everyone!

[Tom C]

Tom, the main original questions have yet to be answered, there are no circles that I can see ... on the results that you see with your own what are you you powering? If you have some vids I would be glad to go look.

Thanks

1- right now I am powering my load tester not my house, I could power an inverter a few lights, maybe a toaster. the actual energy people use, including myself is immense. I have a 4.7 kw solar array, and in the summer it provides less than half of my total consumption for my household. we do have 3 families living here, 2 fridges, etc but even if it was just my family it would be tremendous.

the crystal battery will never be something that can power a house, the charge density is just too low by itself, and putting them in series the impedance just gets too hi. lights are a perfect use for the oscillator circuit, and other low power usage devices. for your house you are going to need 20k in batteries, a big inverter or DC appliances and a lot of thought into curtaling energy usage in your house.

you need a single battery or a set of batteries forming a single voltage, with each individual battery having the same impedance, otherwise batteries just swap potential back and forth. this is not specific to bedini tech, this is a normal parameter when dealing with charging more than 1 battery at the same time. you either need a brach circuit isolated to each battery (sg forced oscillsator with split diode) or multiple monopoles charg ging individual batteries.


Tom C

[Branch Gordon]

Through my load testing on my converted alum batteries, as the curve starts to level off around 5V...the amount of usable light is reduced. By 3V it's not very usable.

Unfortunately this is where you get the majority of the AH with these alum batteries.

Is everyone else experiencing this as well? Or is this performance an indication that I haven't done something right?

By 2V...my LED's pull around 10mA, and you can just barely see that they are on...

[Branch Gordon]

Wow Tom, that's a busy household! Haha!

I would've thought you would have a 10 coiler or something hooked up to two huge 1800AH battery banks powering your house.

1- right now I am powering my load tester not my house, I could power an inverter a few lights, maybe a toaster. the actual energy people use, including myself is immense. I have a 4.7 kw solar array, and in the summer it provides less than half of my total consumption for my household. we do have 3 families living here, 2 fridges, etc but even if it was just my family it would be tremendous.

the crystal battery will never be something that can power a house, the charge density is just too low by itself, and putting them in series the impedance just gets too hi. lights are a perfect use for the oscillator circuit, and other low power usage devices. for your house you are going to need 20k in batteries, a big inverter or DC appliances and a lot of thought into curtaling energy usage in your house.

you need a single battery or a set of batteries forming a single voltage, with each individual battery having the same impedance, otherwise batteries just swap potential back and forth. this is not specific to bedini tech, this is a normal parameter when dealing with charging more than 1 battery at the same time. you either need a brach circuit isolated to each battery (sg forced oscillsator with split diode) or multiple monopoles charg ging individual batteries.


Tom C

[machinationus]

less output

Tom, the main original questions have yet to be answered, there are no circles that I can see ... on the results that you see with your own what are you you powering? If you have some vids I would be glad to go look.

Thanks

I don't see any off grids with these batteries yet, you should Not do it until u try two small battery's first. the lead acid one did not drop as fast, the alum one dropped more with same load but runs at lower volts. It would be a good SG battery as it will run down and still power load. It's still not known the exact mixes.
Don't dump any thing in expensive battery's. It voids warranty's.
But they have tried to perfect the LA battery they first put active carbon in the neg plates and use some Polyaspartic Acids.
D. Pavlov, P. Nikolov, T. Rogachev Institute of Electrochemistry and Energy Systems - BAS,
1113 Sofia, Bulgaria
"Lead-carbon electrode
with inhibitor of PbSO4 recristalization
in lead-acid batteries operating on HRPSoC duty"
15 000 cycles see: ma.ecsdl.org/content/MA2011-02/14/710.full.pdf

[John_Koorn]

I don't see any off grids with these batteries, you should Not do it until u try two small battery's first. My results where not impressive, the lead acid one did not drop as fast, the alum one dropped a lot more with same load.
Don't dump any thing in expensive battery's.
But they have tryed to perfect the LA battery they first put active carbon in the neg plates and use some Polyaspartic Acids.
D. Pavlov, P. Nikolov, T. Rogachev Institute of Electrochemistry and Energy Systems - BAS,
1113 Sofia, Bulgaria
"Lead-carbon electrode
with inhibitor of PbSO4 recristalization
in lead-acid batteries operating on HRPSoC duty"
15 000 cycles see: ma.ecsdl.org/content/MA2011-02/14/710.full.pdf

i agree, try small first and study them until you think you have got it before going bigger.

I was talking to Chuck today, he had one alum battery that he over-charged and also drained to 0v. The battery did not care, puts out just as much as the day he built it. Can't do that with a LA SO4 battery

John K.

[machinationus]

So is 15 volts OK for charging at? It did work at below 10.5 volts fine, I did a short test as no data logger.

[machinationus]

the one i did was resting at 11.23 volts and the mate to it was 12.7 volts (the stock LA bat)
I was using a inverter 120v ac (step ups for the alum battery), so test is not hard fact as the "step up" converter is also wasting a bit. The stock bat. pulled down to 12.3 volts very steady.

Alum Battery “Powervolt” 250 CCA 35RC. Used 2 “step up” 3 amp converters (step ups for Alum battery only)
To a Inverter for 120 volt, powering a air cleaner @ 13-14 watts.
Battery output was 28-38 watts as step-ups heated up.
They (step ups)both got real hot near end. As they where putting out 7.5 amps! starting amps was about 3.75.
Starting Volt:11.23 End volt 5.15. Resting volts after 20 min:9.16
1.5 hours of pulling got it down to 8 volts and 5.5 amps. The volts drop the amps go way up. I stopped test at 1.6 hr.

So it will pull a load far below 10.5 volts I try to put pdf in files. If i find "files"
Its been sitting for a week or more at 11.02 volts

But the stock battery never went below 12.3
Maybe it needs to be reformed. I also made a simple battery with only laundry soap and it worked but took a lot of charging and self discharge was high.
So i kinda give up for now.

[nickle989]

1- right now I am powering my load tester not my house, I could power an inverter a few lights, maybe a toaster. the actual energy people use, including myself is immense. I have a 4.7 kw solar array, and in the summer it provides less than half of my total consumption for my household. we do have 3 families living here, 2 fridges, etc but even if it was just my family it would be tremendous.

....................

Tom C

Living above North Dakota ... it gets pretty darn cold up here ... for me it is a combination of heat and electricity ... I have an evacuated tube solar array heating my shop and at some point will convert the house ... I have a large 100 amp inverter and 12 of 4lcy290/8volt batteries that were used for 2 years as a back up system, the intention was to use my turbine design and better then Betz limit ducted wined turbine as some power ... unfortunaly to big to put in a city ... so back to looking at other alternatives (started to 8 years ago then took another route) then brute force. I see potential in the Alum battery for a lot of good reasons the main one is lack of memory and very easy to take a quick charge. I am pretty happy with the mix that I am using now but am still testing and need to make the SSG. As an inventor with a full machine shop including CNC's I to use power ... grrrr.

I am just waiting for a motor and my coil winding machine will be done and I will be getting on to the SSG.

Regards

[Branch Gordon]

I am curious about how the alum battery with the monopole works...

Let's say you tune your circuit...but then the alum battery goes through a couple impedance changes as it levels out. Does this affect the tuning?

From what I've seen with my lights getting very dim where the battery levels out (3V)....I would think the RPM's would slow way down...

[Branch Gordon]

Please see my thread here to follow my conversions, curves, and notes.

[Tom C]

alum battery and crystal battery are two different things. if you want to run lights for long periods at low voltages you need the oscillator circuit. I have been load testing my converted trojan T125. now this battery was a door stop before conversion, no capacity sitting at 3 volts. the center cell was shorted. after conversion, which took a whole week it began at 4.7 after a dozen charge cycles it is sitting at 5.9. the current it can provide for any length of time is 5 amps continuous for I dont know how long yet. higher current draws (+10A) it cannot handle for more than 1/2 hour or so. but it sits quite nicely at 5A the alum batts would run an Sg nicely with a cap in parallel on the front to match impedance.

Tom C

[Branch Gordon]

Gothca. So I want to make sure I'm clean on this...bear with me.

1. An alum battery curve will level out at lower voltages, but can't sustain a higher amperage. Example: my LED's start off pulling 300mA, and end up around 10mA. If I wanted to beef that up at low voltages, I need the oscillator circuit in the mix. Is this correct?

2. A crystal battery will sustain a load at a constant amperage, as long as the cell is wet. Is this correct?

alum battery and crystal battery are two different things. if you want to run lights for long periods at low voltages you need the oscillator circuit. I have been load testing my converted trojan T125. now this battery was a door stop before conversion, no capacity sitting at 3 volts. the center cell was shorted. after conversion, which took a whole week it began at 4.7 after a dozen charge cycles it is sitting at 5.9. the current it can provide for any length of time is 5 amps continuous for I dont know how long yet. higher current draws (+10A) it cannot handle for more than 1/2 hour or so. but it sits quite nicely at 5A the alum batts would run an Sg nicely with a cap in parallel on the front to match impedance.

Tom C

[Branch Gordon]

Oh...and do you have any thoughts on my recent curves I posted on my thread?