Bedini Tesla Switch DvD Questions.

[bruno]

Hi Bro d,
I will try it also with the 9V battery to power the sg, thx for the tip.

[Thorsten]

Very cool bro d!
I'm curious for your measurements of the 12V Setup, especially when you'll loop the TSs output to the switching circuits input. Perhaps you can track the voltage of the Bs on a list like I did in the video? Just a suggestion...
What do you mean asking me for the jumper wires? There are only the wires to the Bats on my board. If you are asking for the soldering bridges, I've used the cutted Ends from the resistors to build these connections on the top side of the board.
I'll try to follow you to 12V as soon as time is available.
Thorsten

[brodonh]

Hi Bruno,
The batteries have been charged with only JB technology. They are U1-7's.
I decided to power the chip with a 9v battery and send the output (10.7v no load)back to the 9v battery.
John said in the video that we can use the ouptput to run it.
Letting it run over night. Looks promising.
bro d

[bruno]

Hi Bro d
I wish you good charging
Are the batteries new or already used with radiant energy?
I orderd new 12V 7Ah because there are no changes with the old ones, they just refuse to charge.
At the moment I'm going to study that paper of Tom Bearden about the John Bedini negative resistors in batteries and hope to understand what we need to look for in the switching to make it charge as good as possible.

[brodonh]

Hi Thorsten and Bruno,
Guess we are carrying this thread.
Decided to use 12v Garden tractor batts on my 2nd build.
For safety's sake I chose 20 percent duty cycle, and 680ohm resistance on the blinking LED's and 100 Ohm R on the output LED.
I went with 16 awg wire and one clip lead on each batt to make it easy to disconnect.

It is functioning with no smoke on lowest frequency. No heat on the tranny's and the output LED is very bright. The meter says 7.8v at the output
Terminals with the LED connected. The blinking LED's are not bright.

I've etched a board with much larger traces and connectors so will be continuing to scale up.
Mjl's can handle 200mil traces. I use 3oz copper boards.

Thorsten, how did you handle all those jumper wires on your board?

keep'in on ,
bro d

[bruno]

Hello Bro d,
Thank you for the pics, now I have a reference to see if we got the same results.
I have to wait until friday for testing but really looking forward to test your setup.

Hello Thorsten,
Yesterday when I was experimenting I changed the capacitor to 470pF so the frequency whas 16khz and then I saw that the deadzone whas only 2 micro seconds instead of 10. So the deadzone can be influenced by lowering the capacitor. I couldn't understand why John in the dvd says that the capacitor value needs to be so low as possibe if you want very low frequency, but now I understand that it's possible because of the deadzone, offcourse I can be totally wrong it's just an experience I had with the testing.
Please keep in mind that the transistors also cause a delay in the switching. I experienced this when I put 2N2222 transistors on the output while I had problems with the em polution resulting in falls firing of the transistors. Now I know this could all be solved by using higher resistors on pin 12 and 13. But I learned that the 2N2222 give approx 10 micro sec delay. So I would be totally surprised if the opto and MJL transistor don't cause a delay. So maybe the deadzone created by the SG should even be longer (smaller duty precentage) to get a final puls on the transistors switching at the right moment. How to measure that with a scope is something I have to find out because of the 2 different grounds, or does somebody know how this can be measured? Thus a measurement on SG output and one on MJL transistor output and see how much delay the opto and MJL create.
I use 12V 7Ah batteries in one setup and 4 x (8 x 1,2V ni cd ) in second setup. I placed fuses of 5A in line with the 12V batteries just to be sure

[brodonh]

Hey bro d,
that looks as you can work with this. How about the dead zone?
Has anyone already tried to connect 12V batteries to a switch equiped with the components from the DVD? Don't want to get my circuit smoked but when I read the volts and amps from the parts I use, I think this should work...
Thorsten

Hi Thorsten,

The dead zone in the 1st pic is about 95 percent greater than the on time.
I always want to scale up before I'm qualified.
Would the LED's blow without resistance, we might need to change to standard diodes on scale up.

I hooked the pot to pin 5 and ground on my 2nd build. It seems to be functional. A pulse can be reduced to less than 5 ms.
At the same frequency a 50 percent duty cycle pulse is about 70ms.

bro d

[Thorsten]

Hey bro d,
that looks as you can work with this. How about the dead zone?
Has anyone already tried to connect 12V batteries to a switch equiped with the components from the DVD? Don't want to get my circuit smoked but when I read the volts and amps from the parts I use, I think this should work...
Thorsten

[brodonh]

Pics of Duty Cycle adjustment.

[brodonh]

Hi all,
I had errors in my post number 88 and I apologize.
I deleted the Duty Cycle adj portion and will have corrections in this post.
It was 3 in the AM and I didn't see the pins on the bread brd correctly.
There is a way to adjust the Duty Cycle and get wave forms that are a little cleaner than I had seen.
Below is the corrected and improved arrangement:


I can adjust the duty cycle over the complete range from 1 percent to 50 percent.
Power supply is 7.1v form bench PS and no VR.
I have 1M pot from pin 5 to ground and the three, 4.7k R's are the same as video. I decreased the R on the pot until it stopped switching and then slowly increase resistance until switching begins again.
When it first begins again i see very low Duty cycle and can watch it move up (on the scope) unto full 50 percent.
The resistance on the pot is at about 40k at 50 percent duty cycle so one should be able to do this with a smaller than 1M pot.
I was wanting to ask, where is the short spike that is required for radiant to come in when we have a near 50 percent duty cycle..
Now I know.
bro d

[brodonh]

Hi Bruno,
I bread boarded the SG3524 with 2 optos and 2 mjl trannys with small 12v lights powered by 2 batts.
I connected the scope like Thorsten said:
Two probes to neg of power supply and pin 1 of optos.
Same switching waveforms that we have been looking at.
I'll put up some pics.

[bruno]

Hello Bro d

I was wanting to ask, where is the short spike that is required for radiant to come in when we have a near 50 percent duty cycle..
Now I know.

Am I correct that you mean that you use for example 1 percent duty cycle for the spike, or is there another signal output when you configure it to work on the edge where pulsing starts?

Thx for sharing the pot value you used, I will get one saturday so I can see what you mean.

[brodonh]

Hi Thorsten,
Thanks for responding.
I'm loading with one LED.
The lower 2 batts are higher voltage and all stay about the same. I need to record readings again after 2 days.
Up to this point your setup is baffling to me. I did my best to etch it and have all accurate connections with big traces where batts are involved.
I using .68uF cap but according to my last post the r's will not be the same plus I havn't seen the LED's work like the John's drawing.
Now that I can adjust the duty cycle maybe I'll see the LED's work like the drawing.
I'm thinking that one could use huge batteries and adjust the duty cycle to give a sharp gradient spike and adjust frequency for resonance and see the desires of our heart.
bro d

[Thorsten]

both Rs are 4K7, the Cap has 0.68uF.
When I connect the radio or the small motor to my TS there is no futher charging of the batteries instead B2 and B3 are slightly decreasing in Voltage, B1 and B4 stay stable. After disconnecting the load, B2 and B3 are climbing very slowly upwards.
Very good, if your Bs keep the Voltage when a load is connected. What kind of load did you use?
Thorsten

[brodonh]

Hi Thorsten, Bruno,
My 2 etched TS boards have been running for days under load and the batteries are maintaining V but not fully charging.

I've done much testing with different values of R on pins 1 & 2 with a breadboard and have not been able to see a dead zone on either of my anolog scopes. (30mg and 200mg)
I tried a 1M pot on each of the pin2 R's also for testing to no avail.


Thorsten can you tell what you are using regarding the R's on pins 1 & 2 and the the value of CT pin 7. Perhaps a private email [email protected] or a PM.

Are the 4.7k resistors on pin 2 supposed to be the same value when they are changed for a dead zone? Are the 3, 4.7k R's always supposed to be the same value when changed.
Need some help.
bro d