Bedini Tesla Switch DvD Questions.

[bruno]

Hello all,
I've just changed the 330 ohm resistors to pin 12 & 13 with 6K8 like shown in the movie on the pcb layout where the values are written.
My pulses to the optos are now much better and even 5 micro sec that they are both off.
The circuit is now completly back to the one on dvd except that the values are now taken from pcb layout instead of circuit drawn on the board.
Very curious to next measurements in 1h.

correction: I rewatched the movie (dvd 2 14:38) and saw that the resistors where 658ohm (but pulsing with 12V supply and 6K8 works also)

ps: the 10K trimmers instead of 4K7 resistors do not influence the pulses (no death zone or % control)

[bruno]

Thank you very much for the scope shots.
Today I tried to change the 4K7 resistors with 10K trimmer but could not influence the pulses so tomorrow I will experiment further.
Looking forward to achieve the same pulses as you Thorsten, my pulse overlap 3 micro sec.

[Thorsten]

So here you find the scope shots - there is actually a dead zone of 10 us between the two pulses:

Thorsten

[Thorsten]

Thanks Gary!
Bro and bruno, i've taken the scope shots so you can see the switching wave form and duration. I took ground for both channels at the supply battery minus for the switching circuit and the switching signal from the top left and right pin 1 of the optos, there wasn' enough space took hook on the pins 11 and 14 of the SG3524 without shortening with other connections. All Diodes are soldered in the direction that was shown in the DVDs! Even the LEDs. Allways keep an eye on the Transistor side of the optos, i've burned a few during testing and was wondering, why the circuit behaves different, than expected. Ups, can't send the shots from my tablet, sorry. I change to the PC and send them from there.
Thorsten

[bruno]

Thank you Thorsten for sharing.
Nice song on the radio while testing "This is not a miracle.... "
I think that for replicating it is best to use etched boards, because I have to many interfering of em polution on the pulses on my setup.
So I know what to do now.
Do you have a scope for showing the pulses and more precisely the edges of your pulses going to the optos? I'm intersting to know if there is a time that they are both off, or on..

[brodonh]

Thank you Thorsten,
I have 2 running on etched boards.
I need to know the switching wave form.
I'm running at 50% duty cycle and they are not performing as desired.
With no help, I'll breadboard the IC and learn how to adjust it.
from 20% and up.
Looking also at charging the run batt.
Your VID is downloading slowly so havn't seen all of it.

bro d

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Thorsten,

It looks very impressive. Nice replication with good charging.

[Thorsten]

Hello all,

after watching the DVD Set I've tried to replicate this device. In this Video I've tried to put my experiences together and share it with you.

Thank you John Bedini for giving us this information and very good video guidance and the interesting hours I had, building this!
Thorsten

[bruno]

Today I found a very intresting paper on the website of Tom Bearden regarding what the tesla switch does inside the battery: http://www.cheniere.org/techpapers/Bedini.pdf (Bedini's methode for forming negative resistors in batteries)

I also found the next link intresting:
http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Tesl...gy_Pump_(GVEP)

I also found a patent on battery resonace: http://www.google.com.ar/patents/US20080048622

I hope there will be a second DVD chapter in the series on the tesla switch where the tesla switch is explained like in the paper of Tom Bearden so that it is more understandable what to look for when tuning the switch to a point it works.

[bruno]

Hello all,
Does anyone know what the danger is if you use frequency above 800hz?
I found some texts on the original TS and there is stated by John that going above 800hz was dangerous but not what the danger exactly is.
I thought of using the output puls of one side control the input of the optocouplers on the other side so a self resonating circuit is made but I presume that the frequency could go well beyond the 800hz.

[brodonh]

Hi Bruno,
Check your notification's.
bro d

[Altrez]

Hi Altrez,

I use Target3001 software which is free, to draw ccts and boards for etching.
I use hi gloss photo paper in a laser printer and a laminator to transfer image to single sided copper board.
I etch with solutions that I learned about on youtube and web instructables.
All of this has a learning curve.
The best way is the one that works for you.
bro d

Thank you so much for sharing. I will look into the software and find some pcb supplies.

-Altrez

[brodonh]

Please post your results! I am looking into etching my own PCB would you mind sharing the process and the tools you are using?

Thanks!


-Altrez

Hi Altrez,

I use Target3001 software which is free, to draw ccts and boards for etching.
I use hi gloss photo paper in a laser printer and a laminator to transfer image to single sided copper board.
I etch with solutions that I learned about on youtube and web instructables.
All of this has a learning curve.
The best way is the one that works for you.
bro d

[bruno]

Hello Brod,
On the dvd's John tells that with the alcaline batteries he could do that only 4 to 5 times before the battery's where unusable, whereas with the NiCd he could let it work until the NiCd degrated (just as info, I'm curious to your experience with the test).
Yesterday I've baught NiCd's so today I'm going to change the pulsing with the info of Nityesh and take the Nicd's for the second setup. They are new so hopefully they get charged.

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Got the parts for the vid version of TS.
Breaded boarded the IC with 2 optos and 2 mjl's to get acquainted with the chip.
Used a variable DC power supply for the chip instead of a VR and every thing is working OK.
I have etched a board and will assemble it tomorrow.
There is a way to get rid of all the jumpers on John's board and I will try that version first.
I've got it on a 4"x6" board and the smallest trace is 40mil, largest is 75mil.
Into it!
bro d

Hi All,
I fiinished the no jumper build and it functions.
The diodes appear to be wrong on video.
It would do nothing until I turned them around.
I spent plenty of time with a bread board, and during the build, making sure the all switching elements were working reliably.
My 1.2v Ni-CD's havn't come yet so I used 3, AA 1.5 alcaline batteries per position, A little over 4.9v on fresh ones.
Too soon to tell if I can keep batts charged.
I'm using SB580 diodes because they are available at digikey. Better than over $400 for a required 1200unit order of SB570's.

I'm going to redo the board because of needed minor adjustments found during construction.

brod