Kromrey Disclosure - Bedini SG - Beyond the Advanced Handbook by Peter Lindemann

[rdvideo]

System works just fine, why it stopped I do not know. Happy everything is still OK. I removed the extra diode at the output, don't know if it needed. Time to get ready for second coil after charge battery gets to 15.2v.

Richard D.

[rdvideo]

Thanks RS,

I disconnected the negative connection on the charge battery. But now I have another problem that I am looking into now. I started last night to run the system and charge the charge battery to 15.2v. I was then going to get another same battery to use to continue charging. But early in the morning I got up and the system was not running. Since I had to go to work, I would look into what could of happened. I have done this before and had no problem with running the system overnight. The only thing that I did was to put another 1N4007 diode in parallel with the output diode to see how system would do. I checked and the diodes and transistors check OK and the 1K pot is OK too. I was running at 1.5 amp which should be OK. Checking more tonight and this weekend. I still have all of the parts for the second half of the 8 transistor board just in case.

Later this week I will be able to see what is going on because I found an analog HP 275Mhz o-scope on eBay which is better than the HP I sold a couple of years ago. I'm also watching another sale for a Textronix digital o-scope like the one I have but is 200Mhz.

Since I never looked into it before, running at 24v, is that 24v primary and 12v charge or 24v charge? Is there an increase of charging? Even though I am getting things going at 12v, just curious about 24v.

I just downloaded the new JB lost video and checking that out tonight.

Thanks for help,

Richard D. AKA rdvideo.

[RS_]

that's the kind of spikes a 12V system should be seeing......

Don't try unhooking the pos for this safety test when running at 24V or risk killing a transistor

[rdvideo]

Here's the pic after I adjusted the 1k pot to 1.5 amp at max speed.

Now to get a better o'scope because I would like to see what is going on.

Richard D.

[rdvideo]

Well one did work, I do not know why the other pics did not work, must be doing something wrong trying to install multiple pics. But this pic shows what I get on my little digital o'scope after I installed #10 wire everywhere in the ckt, an increase in amplitude do to lower impedance is seen , cool. I'll attach the pic of what happens when you try the 'Safety Test". Spikes galore...

[rdvideo]

Hi,

I don't know why the pictures are not working now. They worked before unless I'm doing something wrong. I select the Insert Image, browse to find picture and then upload. Otherwise I do not know what I did wrong. The pics are all the same .jpeg? I'll try again here. .

[Ed_Morbus]

the attached pics do not work for me to.......

[RS_]

the attached pics do not work for me.......
it may take a while to charge the bigger Ah batterys, and several cycles to get them to charge faster.....
if you can, have another primary battery charging, while running the SSG, and swap out the discharged primary battery, and just keep on charging the Secondary battery till it finely brakes through to 14.5V+

[rdvideo]

Hello and thanks for the posts,

I have to agree about analog o'scopes as compared to digital o'scopes are still far better in certain conditions!!! I am now sorry that I sold my HP analog 200 mhz scope that I bought from an employee sale where I used to work. I know from my part time work at soundsclassic.com audio is cleaner looking with an analog scope as compared to the digital scope. That's also why vinyl records sound better than digital recordings by far.



I attached 3 pics I hope turn out right.

I started from scratch this weekend as to replacing all of the wiring with #10 wire. Discharging the charge battery to 12v with a 1000w Pure Sine Wave Inverter and charging the primary battery to 15.2v in the beginning of this project. Then started without adjusting the 1k pot and let it get up to speed. I am monitoring the output from one transistor with o'scope at startup. The display gets to single pulses real fast with the amplitude of the Spike constant. The pic with the highest Spike is a bit higher than with old wiring. Just by changing the wiring there was approximately 40+ volts increase in the Spike. I still have the two 1N4001 diodes at the base and a current draw of 3.5 amps.

Then started adjusting the 1K pot to find the lowest current draw with highest speed. For this setup it looks like 1.5 amps for max speed. Adjusting lower current draw seen the speed slowly starting to decrease so found spot in middle of going up or down in speed. The second pic shows pulse and Spike at 1.5 amp draw. The last pic is doing the "Safety Test" as described in the SG #1 book by removing one connection from the charge battery and seeing the neon's start glowing. Sorry about poor pic because I did not want to leave connection off too long; o'scope still at 20v/div. Unit is working just fine for present settings which I never gave up!!! I still wonder if there is some more fine tuning to be done before I attach the second genny coil like playing with the coil spacing again for max speed. I am now where I need more info to continue on properly so I may have more questions. Before I can try the genny coil, I have to widen the slot because all slots on the back frame are too small to use with supplied hardware, pain in the butt to do and should of been right in the beginning!

The charging seems slow as compared to the bicycle version I made in 2013 using 7AH batteries (one Bifilar coil) and had no problem getting the charge battery to over 15.2v over night! I let this system run overnight for info and charge battery still never made it to 13v with primary getting to 12.02v? I am using 105AH Deep Cycle batteries. With this setup I thought the charge would be better as compared to my old system in 2013? Getting both batteries ready for another run at fine tuning system again or really see what this 'Mini Beast' can do!!

Happy 4TH,


Have to get back the 200MHZ O'scope I sold because I want to see what is going on in the ckt or I can borough it back for the weekend.

[John_Koorn]

Hi,

Thanks JK, on the diodes info, i have always used the 1n4001 for the base diode and the 1n4007 as the output on BD243C transistors size SG circuits.

JB told me to use 1n5408's as the output diode with the MJL21194 transistors running at 24V......
whither it makes a difference or not i would have to experiment with both of them on a SSG again

Analog Scopes are far superior to digital scopes for seeing the Spike...... but a real fast digital scope 200Mh + helps to see it better.....

Agree wholeheartedly on all of those points RS_

John K.

[RS_]

Hi,

Thanks JK, on the diodes info, i have always used the 1n4001 for the base diode and the 1n4007 as the output on BD243C transistors size SG circuits.

JB told me to use 1n5408's as the output diode with the MJL21194 transistors running at 24V......
whither it makes a difference or not i would have to experiment with both of them on a SSG again

Analog Scopes are far superior to digital scopes for seeing the Spike...... but a real fast digital scope 200Mh + helps to see it better.....

[John_Koorn]

Richard, in my experience there's no difference in the base diode. We (TeslagenX) ship the kits with 1N4007s because JB said it makes no difference as well. As for output diodes, I've never had to use anything higher than the 1N4007 unless running the SSG at more than 12V.

I think you already had your machine running fine at "1.2 amp at fastest speed with single pulse". That's what I'd expect for a single coil setup.

Don't be too concerned about the spike voltage. IMO digital scopes don't capture it properly anyway. Ideally, if the spike happened quick enough, you wouldn't see it at all anyway.

Hope this helps...

John K.

[rdvideo]

OK, let's try again, my anger got to me with to many problems at home at same time, sorry about that.

I changed the base diode from the 1N4007 to a 1N4001 with two in series. I also changed the base resistor to 12 ohm as RS mentioned in his PDF. Not a good thing to do with my setup it seems. With both changes the current draw went up 1 amp and trying out new setup, fried the 1 k pot that was suppose to be a 5w pot and the same one that Peter used in his setup for the SG book series setup. Until a new pot arrives this weekend, I changed the base resistor back to 100 ohm. I am trying to adjust the coil to rotor spacing to get the highest speed according to what Peter talked about in the SG books. Now I see why he mentioned in the book about adjusting the coil in small increments. After adjusting the coil to a certain point, I note what the speed is after a few minutes. Then I start to move it away from the rotor and see what is happening to the speed. I see rpm's slowly going down, so I adjust the other direction with small movements as the speed slowly goes up. I go back and forth around the spot to stay with rpm's going up. I agree with Peter what was mentioned in the that you must start fine tuning with a fully charged primary battery.

I need some help here from those that have systems going better than what I have. I'm starting with a new version that Peter started and never completed for open-source due to unexpected situations. Who else right now uses the expanded core coil form and gets radiant spikes over 100 volts? Right now I get about 70v radiant spikes with a 100 ohm base resistor at 3.5 amp draw and about 570 rpm. I have monitored the collector of one transistor while playing with coil distance to rotor and do not notice any difference in amplitude of the radiant spike and pulse except for the difference in frequency. Each transistor output is the same so I can assume that there is no problem with the transistors. I have access to a transistor curve tracer so I can match transistors and check them to make sure they are up to their specs if needed.

When trigger is tuned for lowest current draw, I get a 2.7 amp draw and the radiant spike drops by about 1/3 amount which there is a picture in a previous post. I keep referring to DVD Part 37 since JB explains the operation of the SSG with a single filar coil to a multi-filar coil and draws pictures to help explain things. He drew a picture of what you should see at the collector of the transistor, a 12v square wave pulse with a radiant spike 300v or more and never talked about fine tuning anything, just theory. The pulse I see is about 22v that dwindles down to 12v than off. I do not know what to do to get a larger spike since I've played with what I can and using the SSG books and JB's DVDs. I can get more rpm's by adjusting the base 1k pot, but no increase of the spike amplitude.

I just received my replacement 1k pot and some 1n5408 diodes as RS uses. Now with having the 1n5408 and the 3060 diodes, I need a new ckt board to work with. I can make the 1n5408 diodes work on the 8-transistor PCB but need something different for the 3060 diodes in order to keep connections short. I really need to finish watching the SG Part 33 and 34 to see what is discussed and takes time to do. Any more input is welcomed because I will get this thing working one way or another. Just need some more input. I have some parts to add to ckt and take it from there.

Thanks for your time,

Richard D.

[RS_]

This is the SSG with the SCR output. I do not recommend this circuit for anyone to build.

I show it here for reference only....... A slow output Diode will have a higher spike....... 300V + will make the Neons start to glow.....

It WILL KILL Transistors if not controlled correctly per the instructions on the Schematic...!
for some reason it turned out fuzzy

[Faraday88]

yea, they are the same class of diode, with out hunting some up and measuring them, they may not have the same diode voltage drop.

the 1n4001 has always been the base diode on the SG's / SSG's, and the 1n4007 has always been the output diode on the smaller SSG's. I use the 1n5408 as the output diodes on large SSG's, and sometimes use 3 of them in parallel for the output on larger SSG's....

2 in series on the base should up the spike a good bit.... i see 200V + spikes on my SSG's.....
When using a SCR as a output diode, i can get 300V+ spikes..... (Be wary, This is a tranny killer!!) the SCR acts like a really slow diode..... a really fast diode will have smaller spikes..... it is the delay in conduction, that lets the spike get high enough to kill a tranny, or fill a Cap really fast, if you can control it.......
My work with 1200V IGBT's in a Bedini/Cole H bridge using a SCR FWBR, showed me I could easily get 800 - 900 V spikes, that would fill up a 1 Farad cap pulser, really, really fast........Pulsing a 1 Farad Cap 2 times a second, will Charge a 24V Golf cart or L16 Battery bank really fast....

having that feature on a O Scope is real handy, and your right, most ppl here should be able to read a scope..........

Hi RS,
Interesting!! wonder how do you commutate the SCR to an SSG spike!
I have read about the Synchronous rectification,
but then a MOSFET is a better candidate for that, but yet how would that imply for a Spike like the SSG?
Rgds,
Faraday88.