5 filar specs

[Robert Darrah]

Hi,

Here's an update on my 5 filar build. I've done 15 runs now and it's like watching a horror movie in slow motion. On run 1 the discharge amp hours was 14 and by run 15 it's down to 6. The charging input has a similar story. It started at 15 amp hours with run 1 and is down to 7 by run 15. Here's the 15 runs:



I see the resolution is poor, so let's try it in 2 parts:





The degradation started from the beginning and has been gradual and progressive throughout, so it's not like something just failed. Disconnected, the 2 charging batteries are holding at the same voltage so I don't think I've got a bad battery. It's more like the charger is degrading the ability of the batteries to hold a charge.

Can anybody advise what is happening? The specs and pics are on the first post of this thread. Oh yeah, ignore run 2. I must have made a mistake when writing down the times.

Thanks,

Robert

[Rob_Esq]

Hi Robert. Sorry mate, I wouldn't like to try and guess what is going on with your battery's capacity. One thing I would say though is that your input and output currents seem a bit high to me. I've recently started playing with an 8 filar, with about 50m (150ft) on each coil, and firing on seven transistors. I'm getting a primary draw of about 320mA and charging input of about 80mA. (Compared with your 1.3 A and .665 A on five files.) I think you might have it tuned in as what someone recently described as a 'brute force' charger. R

[Prinsloo]

Core to magnet spacing

Hi Bud

Sorry to see you work a month and no joy.

You say you just need to give it a slight push and it goes, magnets to close, too much amps, that’s maybe why it just takes off, (tuned for GRUNT mode) the coil is hogging the magnets/rotor/wheel. You should barely feel the interaction between the magnets and the core when you free wheel turning the wheel. Remember what JB said, more current less radiant spike, less current beter radiant spike iaw if the current comes the radiant disappear.

What is the distance of your magnets to the coil core? Increase the distance and redo the base resistor tuning, do 5 or so COP tests and see if there is an increase. Those bats should be nice conditioned by now.

It will also increase the free wheel time on your wheel, iaw, even less resistance, a better COP. You will how ever need to give the wheel a bigger push to get it going, slow steady start = better !

Just my 1 c

Thanks

Theunis

PS : On your scope you should have a " ACQUIRE " button under MENU, hit that and select "ANTI ALIASING - ON" - should give you a better view of the radiant spike.

[Robert Darrah]

Thanks Rob and Theunis. I've got some new batteries, so I'll go back to looking at the tuning and spacing and the little details that make all the difference.

I picked up Free Energy Generation and on page 69 here's a quote that might apply to what happened:

"I must make a stern warning here! The time of the stimulating pulse is very important. If the time is too long, the battery will burn itself out."

So the way I read it is if the base resistance is too low, then the pulse is too long and it's running too many amps through it, enough to burn out the battery apparently. I had no idea that you could actually burn out a battery with an energizer (and I read that before too).

I guess I can't complain, really. At least I didn't blow up the batteries!

thanks,

Robert

[caldovicd]

Hi,

I built a 5 filar along Tom C.'s guidelines and it's running now...

....I would get about 6 triggers per pass.

Hi Robert,

Can you post Tom C's guidelines?
How did you got number of triggers per pass?

Regards,
cald

[Robert Darrah]

Hi cald,

Tom's specs are in a thread called "Advancement process gone?" There aren't too many specs really, mostly the coil size. There are a number of posts about it in that thread, mostly in the 20s, that describe the coil size.

I know there is another thread somewhere too that talks about a 5 filar, which is where I got the #19 for the trigger, and I think it said either #18 or #19 will work. If the resistance is too high with the #19 then just go up to the #18. I found the #19 works ok but my base resistance has to be down around 100 ohms. It works for my 5 filar, but #18 would probably be better if you might want to add more circuits to it later.

You can tell the number of triggers per pass by looking at your scope if you've got one. If you don't, you can kind of tell from the amp draw on the primary. You can't tell how many triggers you are getting without the scope, whether it's 2, 3, 4..., but when you get the resistance right the extra triggers will go away so you just have a nice h wave and you'll see the draw on the primary drop, which puts you real close to your sweet spot. That's the point where the primary draw goes non-linear. The extra triggering draws more current but doesn't really speed up the wheel, so it's just wasted power.

Robert

[Prinsloo]

Hi Guys

Vtech posted a vid on Youtube some time ago, that shows the extra pulses by using a timing led on the SG, you can tune it till the extra pulses disappear. Something visible to see/work with for the guys that don't have an O/scope.

Tuning SSG with LED Strobe - YouTube

Theunis

[Tachyon Catcher]

Tuning,
I have used an old induction automotive timing light with great success. if you're getting more than one pulse, the magnets appear to jump around. Stupid Simple.
Randy

[Robert Darrah]

This way I could adjust the air gap by turning the nuts and measuring the distance between the aluminum angles with a caliper. I tested in increments of .025” and set myself a tolerance of +/- .003 for each adjustment. I thought I might need finer threads to get the adjustments within tolerances, but it turns out that it actually wasn’t too difficult to adjust with the NC bolts.

[Prinsloo]

Hi Robert

Good work laddie, good work ! I'm impressed. One question, are your magnets arranged S/Norths or normal magnets?

Maybe do a test with S/Norths then as well and put the whole question of which is better normal and/or scalar-north magnets to bed then as well,