5 filar specs

[Prinsloo]

Hi Robert

Good work laddie, good work ! I'm impressed. One question, are your magnets arranged S/Norths or normal magnets?

Maybe do a test with S/Norths then as well and put the whole question of which is better normal and/or scalar-north magnets to bed then as well,

[Robert Darrah]

This way I could adjust the air gap by turning the nuts and measuring the distance between the aluminum angles with a caliper. I tested in increments of .025” and set myself a tolerance of +/- .003 for each adjustment. I thought I might need finer threads to get the adjustments within tolerances, but it turns out that it actually wasn’t too difficult to adjust with the NC bolts.

[Tachyon Catcher]

Tuning,
I have used an old induction automotive timing light with great success. if you're getting more than one pulse, the magnets appear to jump around. Stupid Simple.
Randy

[Prinsloo]

Hi Guys

Vtech posted a vid on Youtube some time ago, that shows the extra pulses by using a timing led on the SG, you can tune it till the extra pulses disappear. Something visible to see/work with for the guys that don't have an O/scope.

Tuning SSG with LED Strobe - YouTube

Theunis

[Robert Darrah]

Hi cald,

Tom's specs are in a thread called "Advancement process gone?" There aren't too many specs really, mostly the coil size. There are a number of posts about it in that thread, mostly in the 20s, that describe the coil size.

I know there is another thread somewhere too that talks about a 5 filar, which is where I got the #19 for the trigger, and I think it said either #18 or #19 will work. If the resistance is too high with the #19 then just go up to the #18. I found the #19 works ok but my base resistance has to be down around 100 ohms. It works for my 5 filar, but #18 would probably be better if you might want to add more circuits to it later.

You can tell the number of triggers per pass by looking at your scope if you've got one. If you don't, you can kind of tell from the amp draw on the primary. You can't tell how many triggers you are getting without the scope, whether it's 2, 3, 4..., but when you get the resistance right the extra triggers will go away so you just have a nice h wave and you'll see the draw on the primary drop, which puts you real close to your sweet spot. That's the point where the primary draw goes non-linear. The extra triggering draws more current but doesn't really speed up the wheel, so it's just wasted power.

Robert

[caldovicd]

Hi,

I built a 5 filar along Tom C.'s guidelines and it's running now...

....I would get about 6 triggers per pass.

Hi Robert,

Can you post Tom C's guidelines?
How did you got number of triggers per pass?

Regards,
cald

[Robert Darrah]

Thanks Rob and Theunis. I've got some new batteries, so I'll go back to looking at the tuning and spacing and the little details that make all the difference.

I picked up Free Energy Generation and on page 69 here's a quote that might apply to what happened:

"I must make a stern warning here! The time of the stimulating pulse is very important. If the time is too long, the battery will burn itself out."

So the way I read it is if the base resistance is too low, then the pulse is too long and it's running too many amps through it, enough to burn out the battery apparently. I had no idea that you could actually burn out a battery with an energizer (and I read that before too).

I guess I can't complain, really. At least I didn't blow up the batteries!

thanks,

Robert

[Prinsloo]

Core to magnet spacing

Hi Bud

Sorry to see you work a month and no joy.

You say you just need to give it a slight push and it goes, magnets to close, too much amps, that’s maybe why it just takes off, (tuned for GRUNT mode) the coil is hogging the magnets/rotor/wheel. You should barely feel the interaction between the magnets and the core when you free wheel turning the wheel. Remember what JB said, more current less radiant spike, less current beter radiant spike iaw if the current comes the radiant disappear.

What is the distance of your magnets to the coil core? Increase the distance and redo the base resistor tuning, do 5 or so COP tests and see if there is an increase. Those bats should be nice conditioned by now.

It will also increase the free wheel time on your wheel, iaw, even less resistance, a better COP. You will how ever need to give the wheel a bigger push to get it going, slow steady start = better !

Just my 1 c

Thanks

Theunis

PS : On your scope you should have a " ACQUIRE " button under MENU, hit that and select "ANTI ALIASING - ON" - should give you a better view of the radiant spike.

[Rob_Esq]

Hi Robert. Sorry mate, I wouldn't like to try and guess what is going on with your battery's capacity. One thing I would say though is that your input and output currents seem a bit high to me. I've recently started playing with an 8 filar, with about 50m (150ft) on each coil, and firing on seven transistors. I'm getting a primary draw of about 320mA and charging input of about 80mA. (Compared with your 1.3 A and .665 A on five files.) I think you might have it tuned in as what someone recently described as a 'brute force' charger. R

[Robert Darrah]

Hi,

Here's an update on my 5 filar build. I've done 15 runs now and it's like watching a horror movie in slow motion. On run 1 the discharge amp hours was 14 and by run 15 it's down to 6. The charging input has a similar story. It started at 15 amp hours with run 1 and is down to 7 by run 15. Here's the 15 runs:



I see the resolution is poor, so let's try it in 2 parts:





The degradation started from the beginning and has been gradual and progressive throughout, so it's not like something just failed. Disconnected, the 2 charging batteries are holding at the same voltage so I don't think I've got a bad battery. It's more like the charger is degrading the ability of the batteries to hold a charge.

Can anybody advise what is happening? The specs and pics are on the first post of this thread. Oh yeah, ignore run 2. I must have made a mistake when writing down the times.

Thanks,

Robert

[Rob_Esq]

Hi all. Thanks for you advice over the last couple of weeks about improving my charging, and voltage spikes. As it happens I've now moved on from this bifilar coil and single transistor circuit. I had an 8 filer coil which I wound a few weeks ago, sitting about doing nothing, and the temptation was too much. So I've now got this set up (on a temporary bread board for now) and firing on 7 transistors.

I'm getting spikes around about 57V with this. They're still not as high as I hoped, plus the gradient looks pretty poor as well. The voltage in the battery is rising very fast, then levelling out at about 14.45V (give or take depending how I have it tuned in). I still don't think I have this totally cracked, but its certainly an improvement on before. I'm going to start some proper COP tests today and I'm excited to see how it compares with the previous builds. I'll be posting questions on other threads over the next few days, as I still have lots of questions about voltage spiking, and how this effects the battery charging.

I never did get to the bottom of why I was only getting 30V 'spikes' on my 850 bifiliar coil. My best guess at the moment is because the wheel magnets are too close together, meaning that the coil did not have time to energise properly. This doesn't explain why the spikes increased to 60V when I disconnected the charging battery though. I also never got to the bottom of why I was seeing such large RPM increases, or why my wheel was accelerating as I increased the resistance on the pot (contrary to what seems to happen to every one else).

Anyway, onwards and upwards ... Rob

[Robert Darrah]

Hi Rob,

The way I understand it is the spike you're not seeing in the wave is when the coil collapses and the radiant spike comes in, which explains why the battery isn't charging very high. I'm wondering if there isn't some kind of high resistance short in the coil that only shorts out when there is high voltage and it's shorting out the coil and bleeding off the radiant spike.

Did you check the coil for turn to turn shorts or shorts between windings? You might need a megger if it's a high resistance short. If you use a megger make sure you completely disconnect all leads on the coil!!!! You don't want to fry the electronics.

On your scope shot when you were turning it by hand, right, you've got about 5 pulses per magnet pass. That's normal to get extra pulses at slow speeds. You'll get fewer pulses as the rotor speeds up, until you just have an h wave when it's up to speed.

That's normal, so it's the missing spike of the radiant that's the problem. It seems like either the coil isn't being fully energized for some reason, or the spike is being shorted somewhere.

You've got the R60 1/16" rods in the core, right? Have you tried different batteries, just to be sure that's not it? Did you get all the insulation off the magnet wire? I scrape it with a utility knife and sand it until it's shiny copper. A high resistance connection might keep the coil from fully energizing, so you don't get as much radiant coming in when the field collapses.

You know, those crimp connectors might be the problem. I've had them come off enough times when I thought they were on solid. There might be a high resistance connection in one of those. You might try soldering everything instead. Good luck.

Robert

[Michael Luton]

Rob. Understand the 7 mo old. Yes it appears to be correctly connected. Where were the scope shots taken at? For now the main points you need to look at are the transistor collector and base. With everything else tried you may want to consider the polarity of your coil. If possible swap the bottom leads from the coil with the top leads and see if it will run at all and if so, is there an improvement.

[Rob_Esq]

The circuit schematic that you are using is not available, and the pictures of your circuit are not clear enough. It appears as if your trigger is connected to the collector and the only thing connected to the base is the diode.

Hi Michael, sorry for the delay in responding - a 7 month old baby makes it difficult to get anything done. The schematic is the standard monopole SSG circuit as shown:



Here are a couple of photos of my setup:



These shots are taken with the circuit disconnected from the coils and the battery:
- The middle pin (collector) is fed from the bottom of the power coil, and feeds the positive of the charging battery via the diode;
- The left hand pin (base) feeds from the top of the trigger coil, and links to the emitter via the small diode;
- The emitter returns to the negative of the power battery, and also the bottom end of the trigger coil.

Its not the prettiest circuit ever, but I'm pretty sure it follows the schematic. Rob

[Rob_Esq]

The circuit schematic that you are using is not available, and the pictures of your circuit are not clear enough. It appears as if your trigger is connected to the collector and the only thing connected to the base is the diode.

Hi Michael, sorry for the delay in responding - a 7 month old baby makes it difficult to get anything done. The schematic is the standard monopole SSG circuit as shown:



Here are a couple of photos of my setup:



These shots are taken with the circuit disconnected from the coils and the battery:
- The middle pin (collector) is fed from the bottom of the power coil, and feeds the positive of the charging battery via the diode;
- The left hand pin (base) feeds from the top of the trigger coil, and links to the emitter via the small diode;
- The emitter returns to the negative of the power battery, and also the bottom end of the trigger coil.

Its not the prettiest circuit ever, but I'm pretty sure it follows the schematic. Rob