Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition

[rokan]

Here are some pics of the spark plug wires and cap that I modified.
I hope they are self explanatory? I drilled a hole in the top of the cap to make connection with the rotor and disconnected and insulated the coil inside the distributor. If I can go back to using the internal coil that would be great and add the plasma external equipment to work with that will be awesome!

[Hellenic Vanagon]

Anyway, trying to isolate the factors, I have to check anything.

And the problem is isolated:

http://www.vwsyncro.eu/p/blog-page_34.html

(scroll down please)

[Aaron Murakami]

Hi Aaron,
I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma PU with 2.4L 2RZFE ENGINE, I have already modified the spark plug connectors to have direct contact to the plugs. I also have converted the cap to an external coil which I can convert back if necessary? What will be a good unit to buy to make the plasma and what will be the schematic to use for the circuit connections?
Thanks,
Ron

Hi Ron,

As you mentioned in the emails there isn't a MSD type unit specific to the 2RZFE. However, many units like the budget MSD model Street Fire is universal and can be used on most 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engines as can the other MSD units. Very few are engine specific but are for a general type of engine. Dis-2 or 4 or whatever I used in my Subaru are for distributorless, the Street Fire can be used for points or electronic ignition that use a autotransformer coil with normal primary inputs and a high voltage output, etc.

The cap you mention isn't needed because if you can hook up a CDI/MSD to your engine, the cap in that unit gets discharged into the primary of your ignition coil so you have a corresponding stepup in the high voltage output that increases. So instead of 12 volts going to the primary, you'll have 400-500 volts to the primary from a low capacitance capacitor. The Street Fire unit has 89 milijoules per discharge I believe and you can find up to the 135-150 range or so.

Can you post a picture of your ignition coil and the cables that connect to the plugs?

[rokan]

Hi Aaron,
I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma PU with 2.4L 2RZFE ENGINE, I have already modified the spark plug connectors to have direct contact to the plugs. I also have converted the cap to an external coil which I can convert back if necessary? What will be a good unit to buy to make the plasma and what will be the schematic to use for the circuit connections?
Thanks,
Ron

[Aaron Murakami]

Is your Plasma Ignition ebook still available?
I'm having difficulty figuring out how to order it.

Hi Richard,

Yes, at http://ignitionsecrets.com

You can find the buy buttons about 90% down from the top of the page.

First one is basic package.

Second one is just for wasted spark ignition systems like coil packs where the secondary is isolated from the primary and half the HV output is positive and the other side HV output is negative.

Third one is a combo of both of those.

[Hellenic Vanagon]

The mass airflow sensor can definitely make it seem like the fuel pump is insufficient. On my Subaru, it got so dirty it was like the engine was running on 1 piston.

Have you found that a simple pot in series actually works? I've seen those diagrams on the net for years and have seen some posts by others saying it doesn't work, etc. but I've never tried it - it is definitely one of the simplest mods I've ever seen for fuel computer circuit mods. Only circuit mod I've done before are the o2 sensor circuits that use a LED driver to receive the signal from the o2 sensor and it drops the voltage of it before sending it to the fuel computer to keep it leaned out. I didn't do that on my Subaru, but on my old Honda Civic. With my Subaru, I only used a Volo circuit hard wired into my obdii port and that supposedly leans it out a bit.

@Hellenic, you can buy some mass airflow sensor spray in a can at any local auto parts store. I removed my MAF sensor box and used probably half the can (unnecessary to use that much), but when I hooked it back up, engine was back to normal. It's surprising how much difference it made.

Interesting idea. Thank you very much. I' ll do it.

[Aaron Murakami]

try inserting a pot in the mass airflow wiring. I remember on the 1987 Thunderbird I used to have, that the resistor element in the mass airflow sensor got dirty and caused the engine to lean way out. This one had a wire wound resistor that heated up and was cooled down by the intake air flowing over it. But because it was dirty, it didn't cool down as much as it should have for a given air flow. This resulted in the computer seeing too much resistance in the sensor, which caused it to run lean (not enough fuel). For some reason the oxygen sensors in the exhaust stream didn't recognize the lean condition.

EFI systems do vary between manufacturers, so don't know if this would help or not on your particular application. It would be easy enough to try.

P.S. - I just thought of one other thing. If you changed the plug wires to solid wires, the EMI may be messing with the computer. I'm using magnetic suppression plug wires (solid wire wrapped around a magnetic core) that measure 350 ohms per foot. These still allow a good strong plasma effect while also cutting down on the EMI emitted.

The mass airflow sensor can definitely make it seem like the fuel pump is insufficient. On my Subaru, it got so dirty it was like the engine was running on 1 piston.

Have you found that a simple pot in series actually works? I've seen those diagrams on the net for years and have seen some posts by others saying it doesn't work, etc. but I've never tried it - it is definitely one of the simplest mods I've ever seen for fuel computer circuit mods. Only circuit mod I've done before are the o2 sensor circuits that use a LED driver to receive the signal from the o2 sensor and it drops the voltage of it before sending it to the fuel computer to keep it leaned out. I didn't do that on my Subaru, but on my old Honda Civic. With my Subaru, I only used a Volo circuit hard wired into my obdii port and that supposedly leans it out a bit.

@Hellenic, you can buy some mass airflow sensor spray in a can at any local auto parts store. I removed my MAF sensor box and used probably half the can (unnecessary to use that much), but when I hooked it back up, engine was back to normal. It's surprising how much difference it made.

[Hellenic Vanagon]

Hi Hellenic Vanagon,



I don't know what vehicle you have from your postings, but maybe you could try inserting a pot in the mass airflow wiring. I remember on the 1987 Thunderbird I used to have, that the resistor element in the mass airflow sensor got dirty and caused the engine to lean way out. This one had a wire wound resistor that heated up and was cooled down by the intake air flowing over it. But because it was dirty, it didn't cool down as much as it should have for a given air flow. This resulted in the computer seeing too much resistance in the sensor, which caused it to run lean (not enough fuel). For some reason the oxygen sensors in the exhaust stream didn't recognize the lean condition.

EFI systems do vary between manufacturers, so don't know if this would help or not on your particular application. It would be easy enough to try.

P.S. - I just thought of one other thing. If you changed the plug wires to solid wires, the EMI may be messing with the computer. I'm using magnetic suppression plug wires (solid wire wrapped around a magnetic core) that measure 350 ohms per foot. These still allow a good strong plasma effect while also cutting down on the EMI emitted.

#1 This is my vehicle: http://www.vwsyncro.eu/p/blog-page_72.html

#2 The engine is a vw g60 without MAF but with MAP sensor.

#3 It does have a copot of a double duty: temperature and velocity of the incoming air. It is adjustable taking values between 300-2000 Ω, (somewhere 500 Ω the original value).

This is the one of the two channels, (or three), for leaning the fuel mix.

#4 The wires are the standard vw solid wires with resistors. Struggling for a hotter spark, (pre plasma era), the resistors kept in the minimum required for the optimum system operation, (2 Ω).

The plasma wires are common tv coaxial cable, having the option for grounding, in order to reduce the EMI/RFI plasma radiation. Having exactly the same problems even if the plasma is off, the grounding idea is postponed a little bit, although the system needs some time to fall from the plasma on to the plasma off operation.

#5 With an antenna into the engine bay, I was able to trigger the plasma unit, in a practical attempt to see the areas, (into the bay), with the highest radiation. The position where the ECU sits seems to be at the less affected point.
After a little work with the cables, (better soldering, avoiding short circuiting the aluminum grounding shield of the tv cables to the main conductor), the EMI/RFI radiation is not present any more to my radio reception.

Anyway, trying to isolate the factors, I have to check anything.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Hellenic Vanagon,

.......................... Any way, I am going to fight against the ECU, ("mr. Digifant"), in order to persuade him for a, slightly, leaner mixture.

I don't know what vehicle you have from your postings, but maybe you could try inserting a pot in the mass airflow wiring. I remember on the 1997 Thunderbird I used to have, that the resistor element in the mass airflow sensor got dirty and caused the engine to lean way out. This one had a wire wound resistor that heated up and was cooled down by the intake air flowing over it. But because it was dirty, it didn't cool down as much as it should have for a given air flow. This resulted in the computer seeing too much resistance in the sensor, which caused it to run lean (not enough fuel). For some reason the oxygen sensors in the exhaust stream didn't recognize the lean condition.

EFI systems do vary between manufacturers, so don't know if this would help or not on your particular application. It would be easy enough to try.

P.S. - I just thought of one other thing. If you changed the plug wires to solid wires, the EMI may be messing with the computer. I'm using magnetic suppression plug wires (solid wire wrapped around a magnetic core) that measure 350 ohms per foot. These still allow a good strong plasma effect while also cutting down on the EMI emitted.

[Hellenic Vanagon]

Hi Hellenic Vanagon,

#1 - Black soot is from too cold of a heat range plug and/or too rich of a fuel mix. These plugs do run very cold and the ECU is probably also dumping in too much fuel.

#2 - If you did in fact do something to lean out the mixture, the ECU is probably trying to compensate for it and adding too much fuel - especially under acceleration. It may also be misfiring (shorting out) under load due to too much carbon.

#3 - Try using the regular non-resistor plug for this engine gaped at .070" and see if it helps.

Hi Garry.

Thank you for your answer.

There is just one factor changed from the previous, perfect almost, situation: the plasma adding.

I am trying to make adjustments to the system, keeping the benchmarks, in order to see the influence of the plasma in the specific setup.

One positive point, for the moment I hope so, is that there is no fouling of the spark plugs any more, in the case of a delayed starting of the engine, which may happen under specific circumstances.

Any way, I am going to fight against the ECU, ("mr. Digifant"), in order to persuade him for a, slightly, leaner mixture.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Hellenic Vanagon,

#1 - Black soot is from too cold of a heat range plug and/or too rich of a fuel mix. These plugs do run very cold and the ECU is probably also dumping in too much fuel.

#2 - If you did in fact do something to lean out the mixture, the ECU is probably trying to compensate for it and adding too much fuel - especially under acceleration. It may also be misfiring (shorting out) under load due to too much carbon.

#3 - Try using the regular non-resistor plug for this engine gaped at .070" and see if it helps.

[Hellenic Vanagon]

100 + km after, the plasma ignition works, as we can see in this picture:



All the residue between the ground circumference and the central electrode is burned, (which is not the case before plasma).

But here are my first measurements:

#1 Emissions: no change.
#2 Consumption: no change.

The next strange phenomena are observed:

#1 Black soot on the surface of the spark plugs.
#2 The fuel supply seems to be inadequate, as if the fuel pump works intermittently, at acceleration.

Are these because the ECU corrects a supposed to be lean mixture?

Any comments?

[Faraday88]

It does matter where you connect the diode. If you connect the diode from the coil to the top of a plug cable, any resistance in that line will eat up a lot of the potential from the capacitor. If you have too much resistance in the cable, you won't get any plasma at all. But if you connect it directly to the top of a plug, you eliminate all that resistance and wind up with as many joules as possible at the plug gap.

MSD's statement about solid core wires is because they are expecting the entire cap to be discharged into the primary because that is all they know. We're not doing that so it doesn't matter what they think.

Your belief that the whole cap has to discharge into the primary is not uncommon, but it is incorrect and this actually goes to the heart of my circuit, which is in the patent and is why my method of using the SAME CAPACITOR for BOTH the primary power source AND the low voltage high current source to jump the gap is the ONLY significant innovation in ignition history since the invention of the plasma jet ignition systems to begin with. It is also the most elegant in terms of being the simplest solution to create a plasma ignition since you do not need a separate cap charging circuit that charges a cap for the sole purpose of jumping the gap through a diode while still needing. You need a cap charging circuit for the plasma so the simplest solution is to purchase any off the shelf cdi or msd, add diodes and you're done. This obsoleted millions of dollars in patents filed by all the auto manufacturers, etc. over the last few decades who never understood that a single cap can be used for both.

If you connect the 400 volt cap to the primary and only let 1% of that capacitor discharge into the primary, you are STILL hitting the primary with 400 volts - just with less current. You do NOT need the entire capacitor to discharge in order for the primary to see 400 volts, it is automatically already there whether you use 1% of the cap or 100% of the cap - the extra capacitance will not add any more voltage than is already there, the extra capacitance will just add more current and more current is not necessary to make a spark - voltage is comes first and once it breaks down the gap resistance, then current will flow and it takes almost nothing to ionize that gap so that it is conductive enough to have a low voltage cap discharge over it.

As soon as the spark is made and the gap is ionized, 99% of whatever percentage of that cap will then discharge over the gap just fine. This is what makes my method unique - it flies in the face of what "everyone" thought was possible because countless people believe that the entire cap has to discharge to the primary including "experts" at NASA, JPL, Princeton, all the auto manufacturers and many plug manufacturers.

I did this on the bench with a MSD 6AL about 10 years ago just to test it then I gave it back to the person who loaned it to me. It doesn't matter the model because it works the same on every single one. The exception is if there is a wasted spark ignition that uses a coil pack where the primary and secondary are isolated from each other and half the pack has high voltage positive and the other side is high voltage negative. Everyone said I couldn't make my plasma method work on that too, but I did it and even did a whole presentation on this to prove it.

The only other consideration is the direction the diode is pointing and that is determined by the polarity of the HV output from the coil.

Here is a MSD Street Fire MSD on a Datsun - Street Fire is MSD's budget line but doesn't matter, I made it work on their higher end units as well.

I say 98 mj in the cap in that unit in the vid, but I believe it is 89.

You will see that I'm using the same capacitor in the MSD to charge the primary of the ignition coil and it is simultaneously being used as the low voltage source that goes through a diode to the top of a plug.

Did you purchase my Ignition Secrets package? I have a lot of videos in there showing a lot of bench tests where a single cap is used to charge the primary and is also used to jump the gap through the diode. Not sure why you would have any doubts - there is a ton of evidence in that package.

Hi Aaron,
I have followed your methods for all these years through its developmental phases.
especially when it corelates with CSET of EV Gray and your 'Triple' point method for initiating the Plasma spark over.
Next step is 'Tesla Impulse Technology ' applicable here...what say?? or is that already at work in your Pulsed Plasma Jet Engine??
the kolstermann 's Pulser Plasma Engine.https://youtu.be/lNSAXbZfnbE
as per understanding EV gray enterprises also discovered that they could do away with the 'Load Inductance' and that the Explosive force could well be generated within the intrinsic associated Plasma coupling..and this is in essence a spin off to the kolsermann's Pulser Plasma Engine..(ofcourse the Pappa Engine as well)..
look how Synchronicity brings both Gray team and the Papp team to contend for the fascination car venture at that time..
Best Regards,
Faraday88.

[Aaron Murakami]

Hi Aaron,

I remember when you first posted this video.

My question is a little off topic, but I'm curious. How far have you gotten now to being totally off grid?

I haven't made much of an effort with the energy side of things.

I spent quite a bit on weatherization and insulation to hold on to the heat I make and keep out the heat I don't want. My home now has triple pane windows for the last couple years. This is an early 60's home with virtually no insulation. Last Sep or Oct, I had a company put expanding foam insulation into the entire envelope of my home. When they drilled holes into the outer walls after remove some siding, there was some 1 inch think fiberglass insulation that was sagging so it had zero function as insulation and in many places, there wasn't any at all! So the expanding foam did wonders - was very easy to feel a difference and the heating bill dropped. That was over $20k for windows and the insulation but those are the two most important updates before focusing on any energy related things. I already have LED lighting and other basic things to drop my energy consumption.

I also had a Clopay (I think) garage door in a few years back to replace the wood door with R1 insulation value. The Clopay polyurethane ones has R19 for the same thickness. That was one of the biggest differences. Before that, any water in the garage froze solid in the winter. Now, nothing freezes and even with sub freezing temps, the garage has never dropped below 45F, which is very warm compared to below freezing in the garage.

The ROI was not even a consideration for me on the windows, insulation, garage door, etc. because freedom is more important to me and I'm willing to pay for it.

The philosophy in the Home Energy Savings Guide we published (formerly known as Save on Home Energy) is to focus on that first before the energy technologies. If I just did solar, then I'd need twice as many panels just to compensate for wasting half of it by having a home that is not properly insulated and sealed. Of course that is all boring stuff, but doing it the other way around makes no sense to dump half in waste. But now that the insulation is complete, I will focus on the energy production.

My heating system is gas fired boiler for hot water baseboard radiators. Heating is the biggest energy user so I'm sourcing air source heat pumps and there aren't many options here in North America. Common in Europe and Asia, but of course we're always the last to get the real solutions. I'm on a mountain of basalt so geothermal isn't practical. I want air source heat pump augmented by solar water heaters out in my back yard down below the level of my tank so that the thermo-siphoning effect will always have the hot fluid rise for free so I won't even need a pump. The evacuated solar heat collector costs have really come down. Between an air source heat pump powered by electric and assisted with solar water heating, I won't need much electricity for hot water and heat. I found one company in Canada that makes them but they're really wimpy. I think more solutions will pop up soon.

My home is almost 3000 sq ft - split level home and I keep both floors heated to 70-71 degrees 24/7. That plus all my electric use with all the computers, etc. running 24/7, my biggest bill is around $250 per month - that includes gas and electric.

Only in the last couple years, as Peter and I predicted, almost every clothing dryer manufacturer now makes heat pump dryers that only use 1/3 of the electricity. That makes it more practical to power them with battery power and that was one of the concerns. I'm not interested in using clothes lines, etc... I want the convenience of a clothes dryer and now it won't be much of a burden.

By summer, my electrician friend will have a conduit setup between my garage and boiler room/breaker panel room with a transfer switch in there to go between grid power and battery backup. At the garage wall, I'll have a battery bank made of T105 Trojans - each is 6v 225ah and I'll run it at 12 volts maybe 24 at the most. I want batteries that I can actually handle if I have to remove one and these will do - same ones in my video of the Champion Generator. For the most part, I'm going to go solar since it is so inexpensive compared to the past. Once that is done, I'll look at isolating small systems dedicated to certain areas of the home like my shop, etc. to run on the Bedini 3 battery system with an efficient prime mover and low drag generator to power my loads and the battery bank will keep itself charged up. The solar will then only be needed to to up the batteries to make up any of the losses, which will be minimal.

That is where I'm at with all of this anyway. The insulation was the biggest deal I needed done and that is finally over as of 5+ months ago or so I'm still on track.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Aaron,

I remember when you first posted this video.

My question is a little off topic, but I'm curious. How far have you gotten now to being totally off grid?

Another engine starting right up with the diode connected: