Ok, I now understand your point of view. But still, that's why I said earlier that a better understanding would help, because changing some pot/resistor values didn't really change anything important on the circuit. Vtech did that so the calibration would be more precise. I mean, you could always use the original values Dr. Beck gave and get the same results, you didn't need to stop building your circuit. So you can proceed as it is now, I can guarantee you that Vtech's circuit works with all the resistors combinations found here and on 3dgs' blog. Just make sure you use polyester/polypropylene capacitors and avoid tantalum or old ceramic ones, since they seem to cause stability issues. Also it would be good to make it step by step as Vtech proposed, so you can check for errors that later would be more difficult to be found.
About Ullasmann now, I'm aware of a guy who has built a couple of his circuits and they work flawlessly but I didn't have any feedback on the medical part. Just that they were working as they were meant to be.
About Ullasmann now, I'm aware of a guy who has built a couple of his circuits and they work flawlessly but I didn't have any feedback on the medical part. Just that they were working as they were meant to be.
Mr Sunshiner, hold your horses. I'm still trying this new idea and not even started to think about making another pcb yet. Yes, timer would be good addition and eventually may be incorporated. However, adding another circuit will increase power draw and shorten battery life. Also, if you want to turn power off after preset amount of time you'll need a latching or double coil relay. Normal relay will stay ON as long as is powered by the circuit. Once power gets disconnected relay will return to OFF state and turn the power back. If you look earlier in this thread you'll find the schematic diagram of 4047 circuit and timer. I used an active buzzer (the one which doesn't need feeding signal, only power). Same circuit can also have an additional LED signalling end of session, instead of buzzer which draws more current. Both are simple to make. Also, there is nothing wrong with BT made on 556/555. I just assembled and tuned another pcb today and everything works fine. I'm always looking to improve things or find other way to make them work. That's my nature.
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