Kromrey Disclosure - Bedini SG - Beyond the Advanced Handbook by Peter Lindemann

[RS_]

yea, they are the same class of diode, with out hunting some up and measuring them, they may not have the same diode voltage drop.

the 1n4001 has always been the base diode on the SG's / SSG's, and the 1n4007 has always been the output diode on the smaller SSG's. I use the 1n5408 as the output diodes on large SSG's, and sometimes use 3 of them in parallel for the output on larger SSG's....

2 in series on the base should up the spike a good bit.... i see 200V + spikes on my SSG's.....
When using a SCR as a output diode, i can get 300V+ spikes..... (Be wary, This is a tranny killer!!) the SCR acts like a really slow diode..... a really fast diode will have smaller spikes..... it is the delay in conduction, that lets the spike get high enough to kill a tranny, or fill a Cap really fast, if you can control it.......
My work with 1200V IGBT's in a Bedini/Cole H bridge using a SCR FWBR, showed me I could easily get 800 - 900 V spikes, that would fill up a 1 Farad cap pulser, really, really fast........Pulsing a 1 Farad Cap 2 times a second, will Charge a 24V Golf cart or L16 Battery bank really fast....

having that feature on a O Scope is real handy, and your right, most ppl here should be able to read a scope..........

[rdvideo]

Hi RS,

Just thinking about you mentioning about using a 1N4001 diode at the base of the transistor instead of the 1N4007 diode as supplied with the 8 transistor kit that JB put together. The 1N4001 diode is the same diode as the 1N4007 except for the current and voltage. So I see why there was no difference in performance in the circuit. There must be something else going on to see the difference between the two diodes. I will try the 1N4001 diode when I receive them and the MUR3060WTG diodes for the output and replace the 100 ohm base resistor with a 10 ohm resistor and play from there.

The o'scope I use can do the same thing to measure the amplitude but I did not turn the function on and thought anyone in this thread knows how to use an o'scope. Sorry for not turning on the function because I thought it was no needed.

rdvideo

[RS_]

yea I know the feeling... i have a water leak under the concrete of my green house, and it will require digging a 4' deep hole to get to it.... So i just turn off the feed from the mains when not needed, till i can get to it.... and then the house AC died yesterday afternoon.... at least it is going to be mostly cloudy and mid 80's today. i will call and get someone out on Monday.... all ways something messed up and needing fixing......
at least we will be moving to a new place soon......

Happy Fathers Day to all.....

[Faraday88]

Thanks for the reply RS,

I'll have to get some on order, missed that in your PDF. Have to try this and see what happens.

I have slowed down right now on my project because of a water leak between the good pump and the house. The leak is in the worst place you can think of, under my back deck! Now I have to rip apart my deck so I can fix my water leak and it's in the 90's here.

Happy Fathers day and enjoy the heat in the Midwest...

Richard D.

Wish you all the same !!
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[rdvideo]

Thanks for the reply RS,

I'll have to get some on order, missed that in your PDF. Have to try this and see what happens.

I have slowed down right now on my project because of a water leak between the well pump and the house. The leak is in the worst place you can think of, under my back deck! Now I have to rip apart my deck so I can fix my water leak and it's in the 90's here.

Happy Fathers day and enjoy the heat in the Midwest...

Richard D.

[RS_]

Hi Richard,

Adding the extra base diode did not increase the Spike...? any time you increase the current, you should have a higher Spike.
use a jumper across one of the diodes on each transistor, and while looking at the scope with the probe on a collector, see how the wave form changes as you jumper diodes...

you should have 1n4001 diodes on the base.....

[rdvideo]

Hi all,

I added the extra 1N4007 diode to the base diode for a two diode drop at the base according to RS setup. The only difference it made was to increase the current draw from 2.7 amps to 3.6 amps with nothing else changed and the scope showed nothing different. The setup starts with a single pulse as before. I have not changed anything else in my setup; doing one thing at a time and taking notes. I have on order the 3060 diode to see what that does to the setup before anything else. I guess it's time to play with coil distance and see what happens. Any suggestion are welcomed...

rdvideo (Richard D)

[RS_]

Sorry Brian, that is not how it works....

If the Scope is set to a 10X probe, and the probe is set to 10X, than it will read 20V per division.......

The 2nd pic shows a 10x scope setting, DC coupling, and 20V per division.

If you measure the spike only from the top of the wave form as normal, it measures aprox 60V

Where the whole wave form P to P measures aprox 90V

This is where i really like my 200Mz PicoScope, because i can set the measurement lines to see the exact voltage's for each part of the wave form....

[Brian McNece]

Hello all,

I'm back with some questions and pictures about my setup with some things happening that is different than I read. I am using two new deep cycle batteries with a PL rotor and setup from Teslagenx and 8 transistor kit. I am still only using one drive coil, #20 trigger and 4 #18 for my experiments. Right now I am closer than ever to getting this thing going with some experimentation to see what happens. I started out adjusting the coil to find correct spacing for my setup with highest speed and lowest current draw. I think I am at the right spacing of approximately 1/2", similar to what Peter mentioned in the video. Earlier I played with spacing as mentioned earlier here and had two pulses. Now I got it to one pulse consistently, even at startup since I monitor everything from the beginning with scope connected to one coil output. Now to try and add pictures so I can talk about what I have seen so far.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6938[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6940[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6939[/ATTACH]

Hope this works, first time doing this here and hope pics display in order as I entered them.

First pic is at highest speed of 780 rpm after adjusting trigger with set coil distance. One pulse that looks similar to brodonh pic but with smaller spike. The scope for this pic is in AC mode and you can see what the scope settings are too. 20v/div shows something positive here in terms of the spike voltage. Then I was curious at adjusting the trigger setting and noticed that the spike started to get bigger with the pulse staying the same. I did not know which way I was turning the pot but ended up at the end of pot and now there was just the 100 ohm base resistor with the highest spike! Doing this, the rpm dropped to 530 rpm, but the pulse is very stable. This must be one of the "sweet spots" of the setup to get a single pulse with a high spike because the current draw at low rpm's is about 2.7 amps where it is 1.2 amp at fastest speed with single pulse! The last pic is of what the battery see's at the + term.

Over the last few days, I had my setup running for a while and then stop it to come back the next day to start it up and see what happens on the e-scope. Starts up at the very beginning as a single pulse with a changing PW which is normal as frequency increases and the spike is the same amplitude as seen in the pic right off the bat!!!

I need to find the "sweet spot" for lower amp draw to continue with project with same results as seen in the pics if not better.

I'll be back...

Someone can correct me if I'm reading this wrong, it looks to me like you are getting around 900 volt spikes. The scope is set for 20 volts per line and you are using a 10X probe. Your scope is showing 4 1/2 divisions which is 90 volts multiplied by the 10x probe. Looks good to me. Keep adjusting for the lower amp draw. Great job.

[rdvideo]

Hello all,

I'm back with some questions and pictures about my setup with some things happening that is different than I read. I am using two new deep cycle batteries with a PL rotor and setup from Teslagenx and 8 transistor kit. I am still only using one drive coil, #20 trigger and 4 #18 for my experiments. Right now I am closer than ever to getting this thing going with some experimentation to see what happens. I started out adjusting the coil to find correct spacing for my setup with highest speed and lowest current draw. I think I am at the right spacing of approximately 1/2", similar to what Peter mentioned in the video. Earlier I played with spacing as mentioned earlier here and had two pulses. Now I got it to one pulse consistently, even at startup since I monitor everything from the beginning with scope connected to one coil output. Now to try and add pictures so I can talk about what I have seen so far.




Hope this works, first time doing this here and hope pics display in order as I entered them.

First pic is at highest speed of 780 rpm after adjusting trigger with set coil distance. One pulse that looks similar to brodonh pic but with smaller spike. The scope for this pic is in AC mode and you can see what the scope settings are too. 20v/div shows something positive here in terms of the spike voltage. Then I was curious at adjusting the trigger setting and noticed that the spike started to get bigger with the pulse staying the same. I did not know which way I was turning the pot but ended up at the end of pot and now there was just the 100 ohm base resistor with the highest spike! Doing this, the rpm dropped to 530 rpm, but the pulse is very stable. This must be one of the "sweet spots" of the setup to get a single pulse with a high spike because the current draw at low rpm's is about 2.7 amps where it is 1.2 amp at fastest speed with single pulse! The last pic is of what the battery see's at the + term.

Over the last few days, I had my setup running for a while and then stop it to come back the next day to start it up and see what happens on the e-scope. Starts up at the very beginning as a single pulse with a changing PW which is normal as frequency increases and the spike is the same amplitude as seen in the pic right off the bat!!!

I need to find the "sweet spot" for lower amp draw to continue with project with same results as seen in the pics if not better.

I'll be back...

[Faraday88]

just lucky that it did not kill the Transistor, and just the killed bulb ....

An Incandecent bulb would have high RC time constant so it is a RCD snubber circuit to protect a semiconductor device like the transistor in our case here, R would be used as a bleeder resistor that drains down accumalated Charge in the connected Capacitor.
but these are in the collector circuit.
now, the light bulb being in the trigger circuit (to the base circuit of the transistor),if blows out would mean that the base would also be hit hard!! I use a 2 watt 630/470 Ohm base resistors in my SSG circuits to ensure they withstand the heat dissiapation.. (they run warm to the touch) I think one can use the light bulb in place of the branch(Global) resistor feeding the other resistors.
so a 15W light bulb is appropriate in this position.
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[RS_]

just lucky that it did not kill the Transistor, and just the killed bulb ....

[Faraday88]

Richard,

The Bulb blew out at the conference because We got in a hurry, and did not install the SG output cables.....
MY BAD.....!!!

Hi RS,
Wonder how an incandecent bulb can blow up when the out put is unhooked? unless the trigger is really very strong..
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[RS_]

Richard,

The Bulb blew out at the conference because We got in a hurry, and did not install the SG output cables.....
MY BAD.....!!!

[rdvideo]

Thanks for the info.

Waiting for inverter to arrive to discharge second battery I have. I could use the small 12v fans that I used for discharging when I built my first SSG using 7AH sealed batteries. I want to desulfate a battery, but your right, wait to later and use the cap dump to charge a battery as JB explained in his DVD so that you can switch the primary battery with the charge battery. I recall that JB talked about swapping batteries (primary and charge) and mentioned that if you want to swap batteries that the charge battery is charged using a cap dump and would not work after a while if you didn't.

I look at using a cap dump as an isolation circuit that the SSG will see to help keep it tuned. I keep watching Part 37 "The Linear Amplifier Regulator" and more parts to get while waiting for inverter since I plan on eventually using a bank of batteries like a solar or wind generator would use. Slowly building up to that time. I will try the light bulb in the trigger circuit to see how the circuit acts as an experiment. In electronics, I see the light bulb as a constant current source which many ckt's, especially in audio equipment use. I'm curious about it and never knew about it until I seen Ron Pugh's circuit in Chapter 6: Pulse-Charging Battery Systems from "A Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices" by Patrick J. Kelly I came across some years back after learning about JB and his work. Then RS has it in his ckt's, but why did it burn out in the presentation, not the right type of bulb? Ron Pugh's ckt used a 6W 12v car bulb in series with a 100 ohm resister and a 100 ohm pot and also a 470 ohm base resistor. Just curious...

Thanks for feedback John, been a while since you commented on a post I made back a few years when I questioned PL and Aaron about where is the third SG book since it was mentioned about in book 1 and 2. You asked why I like to see a 3rd book, well, we do have a new coil to play with now. Peter and Aaron did a great job with the third book.

Well, back to the drawing board, working on a battery swapper for the SSG. Thanks again...

Richard D.