How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[Branch Gordon]

Good work man! Yeah the inverter thing sucks...especially since I want to use these batteries tied into my home AC power. Maybe I can find an inverter that doesn't shut off...

How many amps is the 7.5 watt LED pulling? Have you charted any curves on it?

Yeah man, that's what I ran into as well. My low battery signal comes on around 10.5 volts. I've managed to run a 7.5 watt LED bulb in a lamp for nearly 4 hours on the inverter. I'm working on trying to bypass the inverter and try making it run off Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 3.0. I'm thinking I could run more lights and longer that way than on an inverter. Here's a video of the alum 12v car battery running it... btw, I managed to get the alum battery sitting above 12 volts. Higher than I thought...

[Branch Gordon]

Ok here is the charge curve right after adding 1ml acid to each cell. I then ran a discharge curve with a 1 amp load down to 1V. Kind of a high load...just wanted to see what it would do. My next curve I'm going to run a small PC fan which draws around 127mA.

Also, please see the video below I made. I make some comments in it that I might be confused about.

I don't think I have the mix right yet. But maybe the curve will look a lot better with a smaller load.

[min2oly]

for anyone having inverter woes... want to run more amps for a load yet keep it efficient and useful.
you can run some of those newer 120/240v AC LED 800lumin bulbs off of a fairly simple single transistor setup.
follow this thread - start from here and read backward, forward, watch some vids on replications etc.
These cells are a perfect match for this light, you can run all the lights in your house, just think outside the box a bit:
Joule Ringer! - Page 52
kind regards,
Patrick

[Aram]

I'm trying to make one of these earthlights described in the diagram. I purchased all the parts as specified, and put it together, but it doesn't light the LED. The LED I'm using is a 1.8 V, 20 mA Red LED. I've tried testing the circuit by running it off a AA battery (tried both somewhat dead, maybe 1.1 V, and new one). If I measure voltage at the LED pins, I see about .8 V.

Fairly certain I have it wired up correctly. . . the inductors I have look almost like resistors. Heck, here is direct links to all the parts I'm using.

Transistor: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...lkey610-2N2222
Inductor: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...key70-IM2-J-15
Cap: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...80-C410C102J5G
The LED is a radioshack one. I had purchased some white ones from Mouser, but I screwed up, they're ones that have to be baked or something, they have no contacts.

[br0ns0n77]

Yeah man, that's what I ran into as well. My low battery signal comes on around 10.5 volts. I've managed to run a 7.5 watt LED bulb in a lamp for nearly 4 hours on the inverter. I'm working on trying to bypass the inverter and try making it run off Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 3.0. I'm thinking I could run more lights and longer that way than on an inverter. Here's a video of the alum 12v car battery running it... btw, I managed to get the alum battery sitting above 12 volts. Higher than I thought...

[Branch Gordon]

Well duh...just realized an inverter won't work because it shuts off when it gets below a certain voltage... Have to find something else...

[Branch Gordon]

Funny you mentioned the curve...I remembered in an earlier post you said to run a "real-world" load. That's what I'm doing now....I have it hooked up to an inverter which has an LED lamp plugged into it. Charting that curve all the way down to 1V. Will post as soon as it's done. Shooting some video of it too...

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
I want you to remember that I took apart the battery from wall-mart and stuffed with the gel paste that Chuck and I made. So the battery is a little more crystal then yours. I run my own test with the West Mountain Charger. by just putting 0 current in and using it as a meter chart device. I connect the real load to it and watch the curve. Your test has a built in curve for lead acid batteries I think your using that curve. If you would let your curve run out to say 3 volts you would see a much different curve. I have a lab doing some work for me on the Crystal Structure so I know what the material is doing and what it is making.
Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate is a complement to the SO4 in the battery adding Hydrate 9 or 5 is an added benefit. I can not go into the whole formula until I know exactly what is going on to the T. Over on some other Forums I'm discussed by the great Sea Monkey that is ok but he still has not figured out what really takes place in the cell. I understand that when the text book is involved things are just excepted as truth, that may not be the case here. I also know he follows every video and move I make. He knows the truth what works and what does not work. The exact chemical mix is very important to make the cell do that and supply power for long periods of time down at low levels. After all if your stuck in a sub with no power to run the pumps you would really be in trouble. However, What if the battery could supply a low power in a switch for 5 more hrs, you could get to the surface. Just something to think about. The same thing goes for motors and lights and electronic circuits.

[Branch Gordon]

Wow your curve on that small battery running the LED load looks very different from mine. I did apply the 1ml SO4 to each cell..and ran a couple new curves. Unfortunately my laptop decided to lock up and I didn't have the file saved...so I'm having to re-do a curve to upload. I DID see an improvement in that I got about .3 more AH out of it. But I have a steep decline in the curve around 9V...where yours seems to kind of stair step down.

Do you think it's a matter of adding more S04, or do you think I didn't have a strong enough alum mix to begin with to form the crystal?

Video was a great explanation of what is happening...thank you for doing that. I'm gonna open up my battery so I can see when the water is released, and when it's reabsorbed.

Is the end result of this conversion, if done right, that the battery will sustain a load for much longer than an identical lead acid? Right now my identical lead acid is putting out twice the AH...

Curves coming soon...I want to get this right.

In this video I’m showing that if the hydrate is correct and is functioning properly. The normal Sulfuric Acid in the cell will lock up in the chemical creating a new synthetic material that is capable of switching with electric current.

[John_Bedini]

In this video I’m showing that if the hydrate is correct and is functioning properly. The normal Sulfuric Acid in the cell will lock up in the chemical creating a new synthetic material that is capable of switching with electric current.

[John_Bedini]

LesK,
Yes you have turned on the light bulb and if I would have had time I would have posted another video to explain to you what is going on. I will try to get it up on youtube tomorrow. This is very important to get everybody to understand. I also want to thank brOnsOn77 for his work too. Also Branch and Lidmotor, James for posting the charts on Alum. You guys are doing great work on all of this. Again locking up the SO4 is a good way to go for more power. The Video will explain that. I wish DadHav would post the video here so everbody could see he has done some Exelent work with Alum.

[LesK]

John,
I can tell I will be coming back to this post for years...
I got my Alum yesterday and mixed some up and converted a large battery. But what I noticed today is that the leftover mix did not form crystals like my previous mixes.
I thought I must have bought the wrong stuff, but found out that all the versions of alum make crystals. So I was stumped.
Then I ran into this site... Cochise College                P
They make this comment... "The saturated solution from cup#1 was poured into a new clean cup, so that no additional seed crystals would start to grow."

I suspect in my case the water may not have been heated sufficiently, or my mixture just happened to be the same as they are showing where no seed crystal will start to form. Is this a correct assessment?

This is a fascinating science. Sure is a lot of fun stuff to learn here. For Example I did not know Zeolite was usable for removing heavy metals from the body, and as a filter, and there seems to be a big difference between activated and in activated. Even though this is a synthetic it looks like what we have is referred to as an activated zeolite. Anyway the more I look into this the more important your comment below becomes. I am going to guess this is the most important thing we need to study right now.

Thank you again John
Les

Branch,
First of all you need to ask all the question you can about Crystal Cells. I have not really got into it yet here which would be solid state batteries.
I can look at your curve and see it's not quite balanced. I'm looking for the impedance switch in the curve. In the next video I'm going to point that out...... You need a syringe to draw some acid from another lead acid battery and place 1Ml in each cell, then charge to full. Then you use your charting equipment to follow the real world curve, meaning running a light bulb load or anything to take power from that battery. Then watch the curve again. The other thing is under a real world load the battery will follow a liner curve all the way down. The point then being, is the battery damaged and can it be recovered, lead acid maybe not, Alum yes. Why, because the sulphate is locked into the alum crystal between the plates. but what is that compound that the mixture is making? The answer to that question is Synthetic Zeolite, what does Zeolite do it traps things. So, Hydrates mixed with other Hydrates forms a Synthetic Zeolite so the Zeolite traps the SO4 in it's crystal. So lets take this further, The Zeolite is now electrical and can release the changed SO4 back into the water and your battery can charge back up and then discharge without damage as you can not sulphate the plates, watch the next video as boring as it is. If we all get better at this the batteries will last forever charging and discharging, and it can be done ( everything has already been done under the Sun on earth). The thing here is this is real advanced solid state in what is going on and I do not know all the answers yet. I can see what is happening by the cells I'm making and testing. I can not go into Marcus Reid here but just imagine electrons going around never ending supplying current the whole time, sailing ships never depleting the dipole, that is where we are going here. And since I moderate this I will not allow any nonsense. So I will take as much time as I need to, to explain the best as I can here. Everybody needs to think about what can be done if the energy we have today just vanished, light would be good for starters.
Knowledge is power and we need it

[nickle989]

@Lidmotor ... nice job on creating more surface area on the plates. The more area the better I would think as the crystaline structure has a lot more. I have the thought of running V grooves with some holes after.

Today is a good day as I finialy have everything to start my own conversions.

[LesK]

Ah yes, I see.
I am still cycling my batteries to see how much they will improve right now. But Without any measurements yet, the charge rate compared to the discharge (watt hours in/out) sure looks interesting.

Les

[Lidmotor]

Les-- I just wanted to see if these lead -alum cells would look like a supercap on the computer discharge plot. It is now 11 pm and that cell is still running the motor (over 5 hours). The voltage is down to 1.35v so it has held up well. What I am looking to see is if there is a big rapid drop off right at the end. A supercap won't do that. It just discharges in a straight line all the way down. It is nice to have a tool now to plot these things.

Lidmotor