Kromrey Disclosure - Bedini SG - Beyond the Advanced Handbook by Peter Lindemann

[rdvideo]

Hi RS,

I got your presentation as soon as I received the email about it. I watch it multiple times to get all of the info I can. When you switch the batteries, what was the order of switching. The video is fixed so hard to see what is happening. Do you momentarily turn SSG off to switch batteries? I recall Peter talking about turning the trigger off to switch batteries when he was talking about the swapper. I keep re-watching Peter's presentation too to get all info that I can to help me understand what he was doing.

Trying to fine tune what I have and I'm at 600 rpm's but get two pulses instead off one as you should. Getting close...

Thanks for help RS

[RS_]

Yes, you HAVE TO TURN OFF the trigger/power to the SSG and the PL Back Pop Circuits during a Battery Swap on the 4 battery swapper, and / or the 3 battery SSG swapper, or you will blow up the SSG/SG circuits during the swaps....
The order of swapping the 4 Battery swapper is Red ,Green, Purple, Blue.......

[rdvideo]

OK,

I've been thinking about turning trigger/power off but if the next battery to be the charge battery, if it is connected shortly before the actual charge battery gets swapped, you still have a load and I don't think having them both connected for a very short time would hurt anything before disconnecting the charge battery. I'm not familiar with the PL Back Pop circuits unless it's the diode talked about in the SG books, don't recall which one it was talked about, maybe the second one.

Another question is that you use standard e-caps at the output of the SSG where in the first book they talk about using flash photo caps because they are made for quick charge/discharge and are a low impedance to the circuit? You don't want to use large value e-caps that have been sitting around for a while because after a while they produce hydrogen gas inside which could go blowup. Learned that from one company that makes e-caps where I work part-time. Just some info on e-caps.

rdvideo

[Gary Hammond]

Hi RS,

You have mentioned the "fogal mods" on several occasions. Is this just the addition of the extra diode in the trigger circuit or does this also include the pot, bulb, and other things as well?

I assume the extra diode causes a sharper turn off of the transistor to get a bigger spike? What is the overall effect of the "fogal mods"?

[RS_]

Richard,

A lot of current would flow between the freshly charged battery, and the discharged battery, and it is never a good thing to make your contactors switch under load like that...... Turn off the trigger and the power to the SSG/SG circuits during a battery swap is best......

I am guessing you mean the big Blue Caps on JB's 6 coil SSG.....? These caps are on the input side of the 24 Strand SSG circuit, and is a standard muility strand SSG circuit with the output Diodes, and does not have any caps on the output side of the SSG circuits. As this is not a Cap Discharge system.

The SG circuit that PL showed in 2016, Back Pops the Charging Battery in the 4 battery system, and thus is a form of back popping.....

[RS_]

Gary,

Only the extra Diode in the trigger circuit is part of the the Fogal mods. The Fogal Mod's also included a Resistor and a Tantlum cap in between the emitter and ground, that I did not add to my Version of PL 2016 circuit.

The extra Trigger diode pulls up the Base a diode drop higher, and makes the transistor conduct faster and harder than just 1 diode drop. and this gives a bigger spike, can make a 200V spike a 320V spike, and getting close to making the neons glow just by adding the extra diode...

[Gary Hammond]

Thanks RS,

I figured that's what the extra diode was for. I may have to try this.

[Faraday88]

I have a question to ask about what Peter was doing with the Mini-Beast. I've been re-watching the video of the presentation and I am curious about monitoring 4 batteries when he was talking about 3 batteries. Can I assume that the fourth battery is what is powering the battery swapping system since it needs to be charged too? Even though I am working with something simple with three batteries as RS is with his setup, just looking for 4th battery in Peter's setup.

Thanks...

Richard

Hi Richard,
For me the 3-battery 'Split Positive' was always a 4-battery system..guess what..the 4th battery is hidden behind the 3rd battery in a 3-battery system perspective and this clearly shows the Split positive aspect of it.. the Positive of the two batteries in series is getting Split as a 'branch' between the Positives of the Parallel placed (not connected) 3rd and 4th battery.and remember, this is Generator mode of connection...and also implies the Genny coils that needs to be pulse-switched like the 1984 machine when used in a Motor-generator scenario. tinker with it and tell us how would you place the recovery diode to this??
rgds,
Faraday88

[rdvideo]

Thanks for the info Faraday88, now I have an idea about the fourth battery, I's it needed?

About the light bulb in the trigger circuit which the SG books do not talk about, need the resistance of the bulb or telling you that you just lost your trigger? Ron Pugh's article from Chapter 6: Pulse-Charging Battery Systems from 'A Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices' shows a bulb in the trigger circuit too, but no explanation as to why it is there! Look's like another fuse...

rdvideo

[Faraday88]

Thanks for the info Faraday88, now I have an idea about the fourth battery, I's it needed?

About the light bulb in the trigger circuit which the SG books do not talk about, need the resistance of the bulb or telling you that you just lost your trigger? Ron Pugh's article from Chapter 6: Pulse-Charging Battery Systems from 'A Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices' shows a bulb in the trigger circuit too, but no explanation as to why it is there! Look's like another fuse...

rdvideo

Hey rdvideo,
Thanks for the little compliment bro!!
JB said that the light bulb in line with an 'variable Inductance' behaves like an old oscillator tube..in his 10-coiler the light bulb is seen lit at the very instance of turning ON the main toggle switch.
in the advanced versions of his Rotoary machines JB is heard saying that they did away with the light bulb..
The 12-coiler barrel drum rotary machine there are four braches that meet at a common junction with some more branch resistors and an in-line light bulb.
My bet is that this light bulb acts as an attenuator and amplifier at the same time in the trigger circuit.
just some of my pointers to assist your tinkering process...
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[RS_]

The Light Bulb in the trigger circuit acts like a variable resistor, as the primary battery's run down, and the rpm changes, the Bulb's filament resistance changes, keeping the circuit in tune... a very OLD School way of doing things from back in the Vacuum Tube days...

You have to pick the correct size bulb, for the size of SG/SSG you are building, so that it glows about 3/4 bright at the Highest Primary Battery voltage, and about 1/3 bright at the lowest Primary Battery voltage.

[rdvideo]

Thanks again for the info,

I just never seen much of JB's early work even though I do have his early first book and still reading through it. I'm ready to check out my machine after replacing the base resistors with 100 ohm .1%, that should keep the base resistance the same in each circuit.

Just heard from Tom C. and my drive coil and more coil forms and holders are ready to ship. Now I will be able to get this beast running with all six coils.

Now to order for more wire. I dug out my Flowcode programmer that I used in college to learn to program devices like PIC, dsPIC, ARM and can do Raspberry Pi and Arduino. Working on different parts of project at the same time when I can.

Take care,

Richard (rdvideo)


Remember what Einstein said, "Imagination is more important than knowledge."

[rdvideo]

OK, couple more questions on multi-coil SG.

Now that I have the drive coil that I wanted a while ago, I connected it up and started to find the right distance from coil to rotor. According to the SG books, finding the right distance is the first thing to do to get max speed at low current in. Then continue with fine tuning the trigger. Since I have not seen any videos by JB describing a multi-coil SG setup, do you setup the distance with the drive coil before adding a second genny coil and adjust the trigger or after the second coil? I need a little clarification on how to fine tune a multi-coil SG setup. With the right coil to start with and I have the base resistors at 100 ohm .1% for matching with the matched transistors in the 8 transistor kit from Teslagenx and the 1k ohm 5 watt pot as described in the SG books, I am ready to start fine tuning my setup or try too.

I started playing around with the new drive coil and right now get close to 800 rpm's and two pulses, still playing around but getting late. Have to wait till weekend to have more time to play with this thing but I need to balance the second rotor I received because there is just a slight side "wobble" that is enough to vibrate the cart at high rpm's.

Back later...

[RS_]

Make all drive coils the same distance from the rotor. Closer means a stronger trigger signal, farther away means a weaker trigger signal.....
Get it all tuned in and stable single pulsing, and where it will start up and ramp up in RPM to single pulse speed with out adjusting anything at a low battery V. Then add and adjust the genny coil distance, to see how that changes the RPM and current draw. A SG/SSG with a genny coil load should slow down the RPM and lessen the current draw to start with, and sometimes the RPM comes back up some, while the current draw stays about the same.

Not sure which SCH you are following, but it needs at least a 5-10 ohm resister after the 1K 5W Pot, so you don't burn the Pot at its lowest setting, and add a Lamp for tuning as the batt's run down..... In some cases the Lamp can be added in parallel with the Pot, or another value of resistor, to get it to tune in correctly when adding a lamp....

[rdvideo]

Hi RS,

Thanks for info. When I first built the bicycle wheel version with a Bifiler coil that I made, I eventually made one more and added it to the setup opposite to the drive coil. You get it at the right position from the rotor, the RPM really started to take off faster than the one coil by itself. This is as far as I could go because funds disappeared at the time. I am using a new 12v Deep Cycle battery (125 AH) for the primary and an old car battery from my truck for the charge battery that measures 9.5v. I bought two Deep Cycle batteries at the same time to use to tune my setup with one coil, but need to discharge one battery to use as charge battery but no inverter yet to discharge it. That's why I am using the car battery which is smaller in size as compared to the other battery and thought to see if this setup will desulfate it and make it usable again; I've been watching some of JB's videos from the vacuum series.

For the transistor base resistor, I have been following information in the SG books to see what happens and other info that I have. But, to put a small value resistor in series with a pot is standard electronics and the fixed resistor is determined by what application that it is needed in. The 100 ohm resistor as the shunt has shown that it is the right resistor because it takes higher resistance to tune the ckt as I have seen in my experimentation's with what I am working with.

More questions to come, getting late...

Take care...

Richard