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  • 1AU - Universal Battery Charger & Rejuvenator

    THE 1AU IS OUR * MOST POPULAR * CHARGER!
    It is the only true Universal Battery Charger on the market.



    This is the first truly UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGER ever made available to the public.

    The 1AU will charge and restore all rechargeable batteries from 1.2 volts up to 24 volts. Besides this, its simple battery connection technology works with almost all battery styles, eliminating the need for special adapters.

    Specifically designed for charging Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries, the 1AU charger will also charge small lead-acid gel cells, rechargeable alkaline, and other battery types.

    Finally, you can keep all of the batteries you have running at peak performance with the 1AU. If you only buy one battery charger in your whole life, this is the one to get! Don't throw those old batteries away until you have given them a second chance with the 1AU.

    • Eight power levels to choose from.

    • A chart on the top of the unit makes proper power level selection easy.

    • Easy to read LED status indicates when the battery is charged.

    • Charges anything from 1.5 to 24V up to 7AH. (Most cordless tools are 3-4AH.)

    • See owner’s manual for more details.

    • Physical - 6"W x 5"H x 8"D - Approx.. 10 lbs.

    • *1 Year Warranty

      GET YOUR OWN 1AU UNIVERSAL CHARGER REJUVENATOR HERE: ENERGENX 1AU



    Admin
    Energy Science Forum

    IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT USING THIS FORUM, PLEASE READ THIS F.A.Q. FIRST. http://www.energyscienceforum.com/fa...=vb3_board_faq

  • #2
    Hi,

    I got the universal charger mostly to try restoring some 18volt tool batteries that have gone south. I've just started to work with it and decided to try rejuvenating two 18volt Ryobi tool batteries that my brother had and said were now useless. I used a cordless angle grinder to discharge them with and timed how long until the grinder stopped.

    Battery 1 - I charged with the universal charger and discharged with the angle grinder and it took 16 min 50 seconds to discharge for the first run. On the second run with the universal charger it ran for 16 minutes and 40 seconds. For the third run it ran for 16 minutes and 30 seconds. I then charged the battery with the universal charger until it showed charged. As the voltage was still under 19 volts I then put it on the Ryobi charger and it charged for around 20 minutes more before shutting off. I ran it down in the angle grinder and it ran for 17 minutes and 55 seconds. This was a good test as it showed the energies from the 2 different chargers were compatible with each other.

    Battery 2 - I charged with the universal charger and discharged with the angle grinder and for the first run it ran for 15 minutes. For the second run it ran for 15 minutes and 30 seconds. As I was out of time I didn't do a third charge with the universal but charged it with the Ryobi charger for the entire charge. Discharge time was 17 minutes and 35 seconds.

    Battery 3 is a new Ryobi battery in good condition so I used it for the control battery and only charged it with the standard Ryobi charger. For the first run it ran for a little under 14 minutes. For the second run I think the charger shut off before it was fully charged (happens sometimes with this charger) as it only discharged for 7 minutes 55 seconds. For the third run it ran a little under 14 minutes again, and for the fourth run it ran for 14 minutes and 50 seconds.

    Conclusion: Both batteries 1 and 2 were useless with the conventional charger, but after only 1 charge each with the universal charger, they both exceeded the capacity of a new Ryobi battery that had only ever been charged on the conventional charger.

    After having been charged with the universal charger 2 or 3 times, they would yield even greater capacity when charged with the Ryobi charger than a new battery has when charged on the Ryobi charger, as much as 4 minutes longer discharge time.

    This is a great charger. It's possible I could have gotten about the same results with just one charge on the universal charger, something to look into further.

    I've got about 10 Dewalt 18volt batteries, some of them pretty far gone. At $60 a pop, if I can keep them going for years, I'll have made much more than my money back just on these batteries alone. This charger is a great value and will pay for itself many times over in the years to come!

    Robert

    Comment


    • #3
      1UA Charger

      This is definitely the most amazing charger Energenx makes. I charge my son's scooter with it, tool batteries, camera batteries, and of course all of my rechargeable NIMH batteries. I have had this charger for about 3 years and none of the batteries that I regularly charge with this charger have shown any sign of decreased capacity. The little L-ion camera batteries have been the most mazing cases of recovery. Several times I received totally dead batteries, that I have recovered to like new condition, with only a single charge. I don't understand how that is possible, but it's true. It's not even designed for Lithium based batteries, but it works wonders on the little ones. It doesn't seem to work on laptop batteries though. I think it may have something to do with current limiting circuitry, that the little guys don't have.

      Comment


      • #4
        I can say the same thing for my ryobi batteries. I had 5 of the 5 one was just toast, the charger would not bring it back, but the other 4 are going strong!! this charger also works on my small sla batteries i have laying around. get one if you can!

        Tom C


        experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

        Comment


        • #5
          Tom I purchased one last year but was wondering does it charge the new Lithium-Ion batteries
          I got a new drill and impact set for xmas?
          Kevin

          Comment


          • #6
            Kevin,

            None of these chargers are designed or guaranteed for lithiums. However, many people
            have used them successfully, specifically - with this 1AU.

            If you use the 1AU for the lithiums, it is at your own risk and there is no guarantee it will work and
            it could damage your batteries.

            I would use a lower than normal setting on the 1AU for any lithiums compared to the same voltage
            with the other batts that it is designed for.

            I've used is successfully on a number of button cell batteries in series on the lowest setting but again,
            it isn't designed for it.

            Many of the lithiums have internal electrical components that can be problematic and it is possible
            to damage them with this charger. I think that applies to the bigger lithiums like tool batts, etc...

            ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

            On a different note, I use my 1AU more than anything else. It runs probably 300 days out of the year
            for the last 3+ years . It is the only way I charge my tool batteries (mostly nicads - 12 & 18v) and
            I still have 2 X 18v nicads from a Black and Decker trimmer that are about 5 years old and they're still in
            perfect shape. I charge all my cheap harbor freight AAA, AA, C, D and 9v radio batts with the 1AU.
            Aaron Murakami





            You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

            Comment


            • #7
              Aaron these cheap harbor freight batteries you speak of are they rechargable batteries
              or just regular batts that you are charging?
              Kevin

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by kevin View Post
                Aaron these cheap harbor freight batteries you speak of are they rechargable batteries
                or just regular batts that you are charging?
                Kevin
                They're rechargable nicads and nickle metal hydrides. AAA, AA and 9v's mostly.

                Pack of 4 NiMH Rechargeable AA Batteries

                Pack of 4 High Capacity NiMH Rechargeable AA Batteries

                4 Pack NiCd Rechargeable AA Batteries

                I use all three of those. I'm sure they're all low quality but they do the job and some of the ones I have
                like the green ones have gotten over 100 cycles. I wouldn't get any of those online - too expensive.
                In the store, they are on sale all the time for much less.

                I wouldn't depend on them for emergency flashlights or anything - I'd get some real good quality ones
                but these work great for remote controls, computer mouse, etc... They've save me a ton of $ from having
                to buy non-rechargables.

                The best quality rechargables that I've had probably are the ones from radio shack - pretty spendy but
                they do hold a charge longer than the harbor freight ones even if they are rated at the same ah.
                Aaron Murakami





                You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                Comment


                • #9
                  I recently purchased the 1AU charger because of it's ability to charge a wide variety of small batteries of all types from 1.2 to 24 volts. My neighbor who runs an electrical, plumbing, & heating business gave me several old Makita tools with worn out NiCad batteries and their chargers. He was going to throw them all away, but gave them to me instead. Most of them are 9.6 volt and a few are 12 volt.

                  Of the first three 9.6 volt batteries I tried to revive using my SSG only one came back to life. They are all rated at 1.3AH and I was able to get it up to about 1AH using a 1 amp discharge rate. But after several charge - discharge cycles it seems to be losing some of it's capacity. Either it doesn't like all that radiant charging, OR I may have caused it some damage by overcharging it? Of the other two 9.6 volt batteries I charged on the SSG neither would rest above 7.5 volts. I removed one of the battery packs from it's shell and discovered a couple of the cells were dead. So I decided it was time to buy the 1AU charger!

                  So far I have only been working with a single 12volt 1.3 AH NiCad battery pack charging it with the 1AU and discharging it with the West Mountain Radio CBA III. I am charting both the charge cycles and the discharge cycles. On the first charge cycle I had to push in the VDB button to get it started as the battery only showed a few milli-volts. After about 3 hours of charging on level 5, the voltage peaked at about 15.5 volts, leveled off, and started to decline along with the battery becoming warm. The green fully charged indicator never came on, but I stopped the charge because of the conditions that indicated a full charge. The first discharge cycle at 1.0 amp draw gave about .75AH. The next two cycles the battery peaked again at 15.5 volts in just over two hours and produced .89AH.

                  The green fully charged light never came on at all in any of the charge cycles. Yet my RC-10A-12 charger green led comes on at about 15.3 volts on the LABs I use for the primaries on the SSG.

                  Question : How does the 1AU know when to switch from red to green indicating a full charge with so many different voltage batteries and power levels? I assumed that when a NiCad peaks at 1.55 volts/cell, levels off, then drops and starts to heat it's fully charged - but the charger didn't indicate that.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm a little red faced!

                    Guess the battery just needed some more conditioning. I didn't wait long enough. This time the green LED came on after about 145 minutes of charging which was about 25 minutes after the voltage peaked and started to decline and the battery start warming.

                    It appears to sample the "at rest" voltage every 20 minutes or so, and it stopped charging after the seventh sample! I think this battery is comming back to life!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      1AU Bonus,

                      I have used the 1AU to successfully recharge many batteries and have found the NiCads to be obstinate at times in comparison to the NiMH's and LAB's. The NiCad batteries have some issues with charge memory and I have observed this a number of times. DeWalt cordless tools are popular due to price point, however they have battery issues that I have noted in several instances where the battery can only be charged to a certain voltage. Recently, I recharged two of these 12 volt units with 1 AU and was able to obtain a 9.5 volt and 11.5 volt recharge from an otherwise useless battery. Both batteries were subsequently cycled several times with no improvement in final voltage. My thought was that they were toast!

                      I was going to a trade show and tossed these batteries into the trunk of my vehicle where they experienced below 0 F temperatures overnight. For show and tell purposes I then used these batteries at the trade show with the 1AU. To my amazement both of the batteries took a charge to the expected voltage - stunned I watched the voltmeter climb to 13.5+ volts and both batteries finally were charged to 12 volts ( 12.35 v). I returned both of these batteries to the original party - have not heard back from them yet as to performance - I will follow up!

                      Check out w/Google Battery University - excellent info on all types of batteries. The NiCad and Lithium Ion sections are tres informative.

                      Yaro
                      Yaro

                      "The Universe is under no obligation to make sense to you." -Neil Degrasse Tyson

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                        I think this battery is coming back to life!
                        Glad to hear it!

                        The 1amp draw on a 1.3 ah battery is a really big discharge rate for cycling. I know using them on a tool will draw quite a bit, but with the CBA, I'd enter a c20 or c10 rate at the most. You can draw on them harder for the first few, but after that, I'd really reduce the draw down current.

                        So 1.3ah battery, instead of an amp, I'd only draw 65ma (c20) or 130ma (c10). It will take a lot longer, but you will really see what the battery capacity is compared to the manufacturers spec.

                        What voltage are you taking the batteries down to?
                        Aaron Murakami





                        You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi Aaron,

                          Thanks for the response. I'll switch to a c10 or c20 rate next time. I always use c20 for lead acid batteries, but just used the default value of the CBA III for the NiCads. I don't have any experience with NiCads so was a little unsure of the proper rate. I also don't know how much the drill pulls out of them in normal use.

                          What voltage are you taking the batteries down to?
                          Again, I just used the default value of the CBA III which is .9 volts/cell for NiCads. So that was 9 volts for the 10 cell/12.0 volt battery. And the default current draw for the CBA III is c1 or 1.3 amps for a 1.3 amp hr rated battery. I thought that was a bit too much for the condition the batteries were in, so I backed it off to 1.0 amp discharge.
                          Last edited by Gary Hammond; 02-13-2013, 04:48 PM. Reason: correct spelling

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                            Hi Aaron,

                            Thanks for the response. I'll switch to a c10 or c20 rate next time. I always use c20 for lead acid batteries, but just used the default value of the CBA III for the NiCads. I don't have any experience with NiCads so was a little unsure of the proper rate. I also don't know how much the drill pulls out of them in normal use.



                            Again, I just used the default value of the CBA III which is .9 volts/cell for NiCads. So that was 9 volts for the 10 cell/12.0 volt battery. And the default current draw for the CBA III is c1 or 1.3 amps for a 1.3 amp hr rated battery. I thought that was a bit too much for the condition the batteries were in, so I backed it off to 1.0 amp discharge.
                            It will be interesting to see what you can get out of the battery with a lower draw like c10 or c20. Most of my tool batts are 18v. I can do some CBA IV tests on them, but I have it tied up on the Walmart garden batts right now.
                            Aaron Murakami





                            You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi, I already have the 1AU and using it everyday. Everything is working fine. I had to put the charger into the basement because of quiet loud buzz/noise/rattle while charging. It's kinda hard to be with it in one room while in operation. Is it normal? How about your charger ?

                              Thank you
                              my work here :
                              https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+...22301631177969

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