No announcement yet.

Tips on Reviving/Charging Batteries

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Tips on Reviving/Charging Batteries

    Hi, I'm new to this forum and Interested in this SG Radiant Oscillator (solid state). I have been redoing circuitry for over few months and learned how to generate this radiant pulse, some success and most failure. recently I have done an 8-Coil #24 @ 69M (226 ft) parallel wound and 1 trigger which is longer #28 80M aprox. at first I could not get it to self oscillate as MJE13009 is hard to saturate so I thought of placing my used 2N3055 as a switch to trigger MJE13009 with Primary Vcc in collector. I have succeeded in doing so and manage to make it self oscillate. however I encountered a problem, 2N3055 is heating up, the trigger coil is heating up (because its in the outer most part of the Coil), the rest of the transistors is a little warmer than my hand. I believe I am wasting energy into heat, so I decided to increase its frequency by increasing the Trigger base resistance, I observed this also lowered my battery voltage. by the way I am trying to revive a battery 12V40AH gel-type.

    1. If I increase frequency to eliminate the heat build up totally, the voltage of the battery lowers (consuming 50ma to 1A heat build up varies) if I remove charging batt. neon bulbs turns orange intensityvaries. ~~iiinnnnggggg sound
    2. If I decrease the frequency I heat up 2N3055 and warm the MJE13009 (some does not even warm at all). (consuming 2A) if I remove charging batt. neon bulbs turns purple. ~~tssscchhhhh sound

    this kind of frustrate me, I have tried setup no.1 to charge overnight only to see in the morning that it did not increase the voltage.
    I have also tried setup no.2, voltage in the battery increases, but heat build up from transistors,coils bothers me.
    what kind of sort of sound should I be expecting,

    I also have lots of rechargable NIMH that I had revived without problems, I could also charge non-rechargeable 9V batteries in minutes (just fluffy charge to power my multimeters.).

    I Would really appreciate advice and tips on how to effectively charge/revive batteries. , or maybe improvements on my circuit.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Diagram.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	58.5 KB
ID:	51227
    Last edited by ricards; 04-13-2015, 11:00 PM.

  • #2
    Hi ricards and welcome to the forum.

    Firstly, I would read this thread that John Bedini started specifically for the SG Radiant Oscillator:

    There are several issues with your build that you will find when you read the thread.

    John K.


    • #3

      thanks John K. that was a long thread. I've found some answers to my questions. and learned about "One Wire Transmission".
      however.. I Could not see one post from this "BroMikey" who was mentioned in some replies, (only quotes) is this a bug?. this resulted in confusing me with what was really being discussed (I assumed his build). I could relate a little because I have been on EnergeticForum and I saw his post about his "Beast" (did'nt pay much attention). anyway I will go there and read about his build, I might learn something else too.


      • #4
        Hi ricards,

        Do you have any questions that you didn't find the answers to?

        John K.


        • #5
          Hi John k.,

          About batteries I believe I have found my answers also in this forum, about putting Larger/Thicker wire gauge for recovery because Radiant is pure Voltage right? we cant waste them into thinner wire resistance. this was mentioned in this thread thanks to that , but this still, did not increase the voltage that much. so I tried Cap Dump "manually" (which is actually part of my build using NE555 but did not really completed.. Because.... I was fascinated to look at those Neon Turn Bright Purple when I unplug the battery instead of it going directly into capacitor. Maybe I'll just create a switch for Direct, Cap Dump Output. ) Cap DUMP actually worked, I guess you just have to "SHOCK" the battery so the dead battery cells can get revived. I'm now from 9.8V to 11.4V(standby Voltage) maybe a few more "Shock" to revive that 1 Last Cell to achieve 13+ voltage.
          by further observation I also have found out that the ~ttssscchhh sound was not coming from the coil, but from my Pot. I saw sparks (bad sign lowering amp draw),
          and I believe I now have answers to all my questions regarding batteries. Thanks.

          I do have other questions but is off topic. I you could answer it, I will be delighted.
          Is the heat produced by this Technology Inevitable? if not How do i get rid of it?
          Last edited by ricards; 04-16-2015, 06:35 PM. Reason: 98V to 9.8v :D


          • #6
            Hi ricards, in answer to your question - if you built the SG Radiant Oscillator correctly the only place you might have some heat is in the main base resistor. This is why in our SG kits we use a 10W resistor there.

            If you are noticing any more than a few degrees increase in temperature anywhere else in the circuit you have not build the machine correctly or have not tuned it properly.

            Hope this helps...

            John K.


            • #7
              If it charges with no heat does that qualify as "built/tune correctly", I could Actually eliminate every heat (coil,transistors) by increasing base resistance. but by doing so lowers the battery charging voltage (I assumed this is not efficient at all). so I push it more by decreasing resistance because I want to charge it to its correct voltage, then I get heat.. (and sparks from pot ) thats really my problem from the start.

              There is one word that is always mentioned in almost every topic of this tech. about charging battery. that is "Impedance", whenever there is a topic about charging there's that word like its was the "KEY" to understanding this tech. I googled it up. It says it somewhat like "Resistance" (Ohms), battery Impedance = Coil Impedance, AC=Impedance,DC=Resistance "match the coil to the battery" (this tech is not really dealing with both AC/DC right? with regards to output?). (I just could not Understand it ) Can you go deeper with this?

              Do I have to build the "Correct SG Radiant Oscillator" according to my battery? as to what my battery is? do I have to Equally match it?.. go deeper with mathematics and calculate impedance and sort of stuff(Thats really hard ).

              Or can I just assume it as simple as:

              "Bigger battery needs bigger charger"
              "It is RECOMMENDED to charge at NO HEAT Production,
              if its not enough to charge current battery with current charger, don't push charger, Build Bigger"

              because I could charge non rechargeable AA and 9V batteries without getting anything to heat up. I would know if the battery is charged if its getting warm.


              • #8

                I wouldn't worry too much about the impedance matching stuff. You need to know how to build the basic machine properly first.

                To be honest, the best way to learn this tech is to build the rotored version first as this will let you study the machine and how it works. Once you understand how the machine works, it's an easy jump to the solid state version.

                If you haven't already read it, I would thoroughly recommend the Bedini SG - The Complete Beginner's Handbook. It's the best beginner's book you'll find and is endorsed by John Bedini.

                John K.