How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
Go to Amazon. com and type in Ph meter, that is what I did. Let the lights stay on and make sure nobody is home. Be back soon with the video on what I did. I'm around a ph of 6.1 to 6.8. Alum is acidic by itself. Yes keep everything the same then make small changes.

[Branch Gordon]

I will be ordering one tonight. Thanks for the response.

Branch,
Go to Amazon. com and type in Ph meter, that is what I did. Let the lights stay on and make sure nobody is home. Be back soon with the video on what I did. I'm around a ph of 6.1 to 6.8. Alum is acidic by itself. Yes keep everything the same then make small changes.

[nickle989]

John B, Could you show/post by example how you are calculating the impedance of the battery and an individual cell. I know that this may seem trivial but I would like to make sure we are calculating the way you are. Thanks.

[John_Bedini]

I use a B&K 601 tester. The converted motor cycle batteries usually run at .1 Ohms

[John_Bedini]

I’m showing how I mixed the chemicals

In this video I’m showing how I mixed the chemicals for the Lead Hydrate 9 battery, I made one mistake about the standing voltage so I corrected it. Important to not let your meter’s battery run out. Most Alum Batteries stand between 9.3 to 11.34 volts. @.1 Ohms
John Bedini & Chuck Hupp.

[John_Bedini]

What you need to do is measure and record the open circuit voltage of the battery, Then you need to load it with a resistor. Use one that draws a good bit of current (50 ohm, 100 ohms, etc) and measure and record the voltage again. The difference between the two readings is the number we need for the math below. (You might have to do this second measurement fast so as not to burn up your resistor unless you have a big power resistor. Remember that P=V^2/R which for 50 ohms would be 12^2/50 or almost 3 watts; so be fast and careful if you use a resistor with a smaller power rating).

OK now the math. The internal resistance of the battery actually froms a resistive voltage divider with the external resistor you load it with. This is what causes the voltage drop. The standard equation for this voltage drop is:

Vdrop = Vbatt*(Rbatt/(RL+Rbatt))

Where:
Vdrop is the difference in your two readings above
Vbatt is the open circuit voltage measured above
RL is the resistor you load the battery with
Rbatt is the battery internal resistance you're looking for

If you do a bit of algebra and solve the equation above for Rbatt, you get the following equation:

Rbatt = Vdrop*(RL/(Vdrop+Vbatt))

Just plug the numbers you measured above into this equation and you'll have your answer.

Here's an Example:

Vbatt = 12V
When loaded with 500 ohms the battery voltage drops to 11.9 V ... or Vdrop = 0.1V

Plug the numbers in:

Rbatt = 0.1*(500/(0.1+12))

Rbatt = 4.1 ohms


You could use a variable rheostat resistor so you could adjust where your going to work at. The B&K is doing it much different but this should be close enough to get a general idea of what the battery is. If you look at the battery open voltage and apply the load and then take that voltage and plug that into the equation you will see the impedance of the whole circuit working on the battery. The video I just posted that battery is around 2.4 Ohms with load. A Lead Acid Battery is .00023 Ohms typ.

[Branch Gordon]

I have a few questions in reference to this recent video...

1. How important is the amperage on the forming charge? Is this something you scale up with larger AH batteries? I used the little RC-2A12, but I don't have any idea how many amps it is charging with.

2. You showed the chemicals used in your mix, but I didn't see the ratio. Will you be divulging that information? I guess it doesn't matter though if I can't acquire them (without being in a company).

3. Is that the same mixture you used in your motorcycle 5AH battery? I had thought we were just using alum and sulfuric acid to balance the cells...so I'm confused how these other chemicals are coming into play.

4. Once you have the impedance figured out for the cells, then do you just setup a resistor with the same ohms in series with the load? So if my impedance ends up being 4.1 for the battery, do I just use a variable rheostat to match that?

Thanks!

[QUOTE=John_Bedini;2295]In this video I’m showing how I mixed the chemicals for the Lead Hydrate 9 battery, I made one mistake about the standing voltage so I corrected it. Important to not let your meter’s battery run out. Most Alum Batteries stand between 9.3 to 11.34 volts. @.1 Ohms
John Bedini & Chuck Hupp.

Mixing Chemicals for Hydrate Cell 9 John Bedin &i Chuck Hupp - YouTube

[Branch Gordon]

Here is the PH tester I just purchased. It looked slim enough to fit into the cells on my motorcycle battery. I read it's important to also get some calibration solution. Links below...I'll post my results with it once it arrives next week.

Hanna Instruments HI 98103B Beer pH Tester,with Replaceable Electrode: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: General Hydroponics Ph 4.01 & Ph 7.0 Calibration Solution Kit - 8 Ounces: Patio, Lawn & Garden

[Branch Gordon]

Here is an update tonight on my alum battery. It's been powering an LED load for 30 hours now. I didn't realize that the larger "ultra-bright" LEDs had a higher trigger voltage, so I had to replace those in the middle of the curve with the smaller LEDs. So that's what the small decrease in voltage is in the curve.

Anxious to see where it is tomorrow morning.

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
The charger is pulse it's in the range of short 10 to 20 amp peaks depending on the load. If you let that battery rest now and recharge it you should see it get much stronger.
That tester should work. The one I got is made by the same people but I think the range is different I will get the number and post it. I use a constant current supply to form them at 1 amp it takes a bit of time to do it.
It should not blink the green light as much this time.

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
It's not hard to make that mix you can see it when it forms the crystals mixing the Alum with the acid and you stop and mix The sodium silicate will form another crystal and you can see that too, Hydrate you do not use much about a table spoon of that. You do use the whole cup of Alum.

Do the Alum water first....
So about 3 cups of water 1/2 Cup of Sodium Silicate 1/8 cup SO4 One cup of Alum
One Table spoon of Hydrate 9/5 do not let it gel up unless you want to do something else. keep mixing then just let it sit and draw the liquid out for the battery.

[John_Koorn]

Hey John B,

Thanks for the info. I have a question about forming the battery after putting in the solution. On my motorcycle battery that is rated at 3Ah I first formed it at 1A for 3 hours on the lab power supply, but noticed the battery was very warm when I did this. For fear of warping the plates I am now re-charging it at 0.5A for 6 hours and the battery does not get as warm.

I am noticing that the battery is getting stronger and stronger after each cycle, but I still think I don't have enough Alum in the solution. When charging the battery rises to ~12.5v immediately and then settles a ~17.0v. Attached is a picture of the charge curves after adding 1.5mL to each cell and the red and green lines are curves charging at 0.5A.


John K.

[Branch Gordon]

I wanted to see if I could find everything online. Are these all the correct chemicals?

Sodium Silicate, Grade 40
Sulfuric Acid
Sodium metasilicate nonahydrate
Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate
Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate

The Sodium metasilicate nonahydrate is quite expensive!

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
You only need one of these either 9 hydrate or 5 hydrate,
chose the lesser of the two evils. You do not need both.
This is just my mix someone my do it different.

[LesK]

John,
Thank you for the math on the battery impedance. The 2.4 ohms was a real surprise. Isn't that about perfect for the ferris wheel?

Les