Complete Bedini SG Book!

[gabiX87]

Hi again,

I can't really say that I 100% finished my second SSG build but here it is. I think I have timing problems there, the neons doesn't light up at the same time. I would appreciate any advice to make it better and more efficient.

Would the capacitor discharge somehow overcome the transistor timing problem ?


Thank you

UPDATE 29/oct/2013 - After I burnt a couple of MJLs as I disconnected the battery @~1.6A input ,I replaced all of them + new neons. I suspect the neon flash difference was caused by either poor soldering or the neons had different properties. Now it's quite fine. And now I am using two 40Ah batteries ,instead of the 80Ah which is a overkill for this machine. It takes ages to charge them , they're just too big and the SG isn't able to push them enough. I rejuvenate/charge with radiant only ,sulfated 40Ah batteries for around 1.5days to reach 15.50V. This setup is very good up to 15Ah(just my observaiton).

[sinergicus]

Hello sinergicus

"Homemade relay activated with 555 timer for discharging 8000 microfarad"??

First let me say you are doing great to get this far. Also for talking up, so many members and only 5-10 people say anything.

I have learned something about homemade 555 timer capacitor discharging. Yes sulfation may slow charging.
Charging can be slowed down by poor cap dump perimeters. 555 time dumps do not have a way to limit discharging time they only control charge time. (Well the ones I see people using)

Do you have a control to speed up or slow down the time that is given for cap bank discharging?

If not use a diode and extra pot to make your homemade timer work 100% of the time.

Right now your dump is working and this is quite an achievement, but if it is like most 555 timer discharging units, it only works for approx. 20% of the time tops if not 5% of the time. So getting your timer to shut off at the right time can and will increase your ability to charge a battery dramatically.

I found this out through trial and error like experimenters do sometimes.

What i did was charge up a small bank of capacitors of 15,000 uf manually or in other ways of saying the same thing, I turned on my energizer to fill the caps then I discharged them as quickly as I could. I wanted to find out how long it took to empty my caps.

I found out that if it took me 20 counts to fill the caps up that it only took approx 1 count to empty them.

I your case at 8000uf which is very small it should only take less than one tenth of a second to discharge them.

Blink of an eye and then more time can be spent charging and discharging a great number of pulses.

I don't know if you understand this communication but this is what I learned this month. here is the circuit and I will wait to hear back on what your circuit looks like. Mike
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2212[/ATTACH]

My SSG is feded now by 50 watt solar panell so when is full sun the charging of bank capacitors going faster and because of this I needed to put 3 more capacitors in parallel to not modify the timer circuit...when is cloudy the charging going slow and caps not charging at almost full capacity like when is sun...now few moments ago I made a test in full sun ,let the caps to charge at almost full ,stooped quickly the well and let the relay to discharge the cap briefly ( the on of the timer is set around half a second ,maybe less...) and after that I measured the remaining voltage in them... 17 V....when is cloudy I think, caps will discharge almost all of their charge in battery...another factor that will influence the discharging of the cap is the contact imperfections of the relay arms...sometime I sow big sparks at the relay arms when capacitor discharging ,and sometime not..this means,sometime capacitors will not discharge completely because the previous contact between relay arms was not very good and at the next cycle, they charged at a higher level and make flame...

regarding timer, yes, my timer have both resistors variable to be more easy to tune the circuit;my circuit is almost like yours but instead of using transistors for discharging the cap , I am using mechanical relay ( in fact an simple movable arm that will move the minus from cap to minus of the charging battery at the proper time...also I am not using optocupler like you did..my mosfet transistor that drive the relay coil is connected directly to output of the 555 circuit....

Sincerely, at the first time I want to using some circuit like yours but I was afraid the transistors will not survive discharging thousands of microfarads....
I dont like relays...they are noisy, not making good contact everytime and this means if the cap bank was not discharged enough at one cycle , during the next one, will over voltage the cap bank...and maybe hit the battery in not very healthy manner...so I think is much better to using electronics instead of mechanical switching...

Now I have 2 question:
1.Please let me know what you think about how much voltage and microfarads your transistorized switching circuit can take ? If can take at least 100 V and 11.000 microfarads in long run ,I will give it a try to your suggested circuit...

2.Is not clear for me what you want to say with this:
So getting your timer to shut off at the right time can and will increase your ability to charge a battery dramatically.

I found this out through trial and error like experimenters do sometimes.



You want to say the caps must be discharged very sharply across the battery so this means by doing that we will make sharp pulse that will trigger some special phenomena that will make battery to charge faster?
Please be more clear about this ; thanks...

[higaredaJL]

I'm Happy with my first results with my Bedini SG replication.

Hello Every body!!
The last two monts I had been studing, experimenting and taking notes about my Bedini SG replication. I'm so excited and happy looking and testing how it works so well. On my particular view point, and I don't know why this thing happend, my device don't produce any heat in any one of it's electronic parts, even the neon bulbs never had been turn on, except when I desconect one baterry charge's cable. I think that my replication was done very good and I would like say that all of you. Thanks for the excellent job made in the Bedini Complete Begginers hand book. I actually bought the Intermediate Handbook and I did aply all of the great ideas that comes in it. Now only I hope can to buy a Cap discharge circuit from John Bedini as well somebody could tell me de correct way to order one of these.
Sorry for my bad english I hope you can understand that I am needing as well.
Thaks alot again and so long. Best regards. HigaredaJL

Big thanks to Bedini and other who participated in creating such good study material.
Personally, i missed the part where you can see the list of good battery manufactures, on which supposedly you can get fast results.
I know for beginner it's not obvious, but it would be great hint.
The description of battery chemistry is actually a real deal, but i would like to see some examples for not good result's due to broken leads or not enough acid in the battery. It would be great if in the next edition of the book would be presented an actual battery charging and discharging table, with times and loads.
My personal wish would be if Bedini can discuss under which circumstances the sealed lead acid battery is in good shape and in bad shape, sometimes such small things can bring a lot.
I've been asked so many times by folks, about charging and discharging time of the battery (C20 should be used) and sometimes it was very exceptional cases, were people just use some soviet old junk battery ;-)
Once again in my opinion this book is a must for all newbies.

[sinergicus]

Hi Sinergicus,
If you have Electrolytic Cap rated at 400V and say 20 u F or more...that is good enough..
Rgds,
Faraday88.

Now one week ago I used one single cap rated at 220 microfarads and 200 volt that was discharged in battery aproximately 4 times in one second at 70-80 volts ...at the beginning everything was fine ,battery increased his voltage slowly but after a while , the battery almost stopped to take charge ,voltage start to climb with difficulty...so my conclusion is,if the battery are old and is sulfated is needed more powerful discharge across his plates to hit the sulfation...

Also I wondering if is some optimal frequency to discharge the capacitors across the battery to have maximum results in less time....
Look at this matterial
The Secrets of Building Lead Acid Battery Free Energy Devices FINAL if this is true, this means (I suppose ) we can make the charge battery to charge itself faster with less input , if we find the correct frequency of discharging the capacitor across battery ...

[Faraday88]

Hi Sinergicus,
If you have Electrolytic Cap rated at 400V and say 20 u F or more...that is good enough..
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[sinergicus]

Here is my SSG with homemade relay activated with 555 timer for discharging 8000 microfarad bank cap ,in 12 volt bateries ... the timer is set to discharge the cap once at aproximately 20 seconds at 80 volts, in old car battery...
Generator bedini SSG - YouTube

I observed also the electret effect of the capacitors but is very poor... the voltage are going up after discharging the cap bank ( and ssg stooped) to at maximum 1v ...I am using common electrolytic caps ....flash caps cannot be found easy in this areea of world and also are expensive...so I using normal electrolytic caps

[Aaron Murakami]

fan blade

When I started to build the whole frame with my grandfather , he was the big boss saying "why from wood?". We argued a lot. But then he pushed so much that I let him to do it from steel. I knew that steel would affect the magnetic field ,but ... I am preparing to build a second ssg with bigger steel wheel rim and wooden yoke and adding/experimenting/learning the cap dump to the first one.

I will post results later.

I have a question about the fan which is used in the SSG kit and on the lab machine JB has. There are no parameters mentioned in the beginners book. I am interested in the diameter and angle of the blades. Since I found a local supplier with these kind of things (bare alu fans) I want to have it on my SSG as well.

Thanks

G+ album, any comments are welcome
https://plus.google.com/photos/10458...CIC_yKu0wM2REg

Looks like a nice build there - that is quite a set of photos of your build!

The fan specs aren't very important. The fan for the kits are about 14 inches diameter with 5 blades. It is aluminum so is fairly light but does give some weight load. I definitely would not use a heavy steel blade because that would be too much.

[gabiX87]

if your yoke is steel you need to change it out for wood or plastic, you don't want spinning magnets passing by metal you are creating little magnetic impulses (locks) in the steel and it reduces your efficiency....Tom C

When I started to build the whole frame with my grandfather , he was the big boss saying "why from wood?". We argued a lot. But then he pushed so much that I let him to do it from steel. I knew that steel would affect the magnetic field ,but ... I am preparing to build a second ssg with bigger steel wheel rim and wooden yoke and adding/experimenting/learning the cap dump to the first one.

I will post results later.

I have a question about the fan which is used in the SSG kit and on the lab machine JB has. There are no parameters mentioned in the beginners book. I am interested in the diameter and angle of the blades. Since I found a local supplier with these kind of things (bare alu fans) I want to have it on my SSG as well.

Thanks

G+ album, any comments are welcome
UPDATE-17.7.2013: I added some more photos + second SSG
https://plus.google.com/photos/10458...CIC_yKu0wM2REg

[Tom C]

we no longer build with that coil wire, we use 20 for the power strands and 23 for the trigger strands. there are wire gauge converters all over the internet.http://www.penn-union.com/ref%20mate...ze%20Chart.pdf Tom C

[max1205max]

23 # or 26 # how many mm thick wire?

[Tom C]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2042[/ATTACH]

Almost done !!!! It's working nicely. I will upload photos of "making of" on my G+ account once it's done.

if your yoke is steel you need to change it out for wood or plastic, you don't want spinning magnets passing by metal you are creating little magnetic impulses (locks) in the steel and it reduces your efficiency....Tom C

[Aaron Murakami]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2042[/ATTACH]

Almost done !!!! It's working nicely. I will upload photos of "making of" on my G+ account once it's done.

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the complete model.

[sinergicus]

In the second book I read about using 1 farad capacitors in series at total voltage of 60V...pg41 capacitor characteristics
My question is: the high voltage spike that is well over 100 V will not destroy that expensive capacitors?

I am asking that because I charged a big cap 104,000 microfarads rated at 15 v with radiant, monitoring the voltage to not go over capacitor rating but seems this was not enough;after few charge, discharge, my cap dielectric was destroyed

[gabiX87]

My 90% complete SSG



Almost done !!!! It's working nicely. I will upload photos of "making of" on my G+ account once it's done.

[Tom C]

In my ssg setup,when running , 2 neons glowing , few just flicking and some of them not glowing at all but when I touching them with my finger they start to glow..when I remove my finger they stop to glow.Can somebody let me know why not glowing just when I touching them ?
I am using BUT 56A transistors because MJL transistors are very expensive for my budget...

your neons should NOt be glowing. either your battery wont take the charge anymore or you have something not connected. do not run your SG without your charge battery connected. they glow when you touch them because your touch allows a bit of charge to flow thru the glass lowering the resistance of the gap in the neon. there is something wrong with your charge battery, the neon is absorbing the spike, you are destroying your transistors slowly. Tom C