generator mode

[double_d]

i keep reading about 'generator mode' but can't seem to find out what it really entails. is it the same circuit just hooked up differently? any insight would be appreciated!

thanks.

[BobZilla]

Hi DD,
Gen mode is a modification to the circuit which puts the batteries in parallel. It is also called mode 2, mode 3 is gen mode but with a cap dump/comparator. The Basic SSG configuration is mode 1.

Gen mode is a current charging method. I do not know how much you already know about the circuit but mode 1 charges by low current high voltage, mode two will basically do the opposite, high current low voltage ( well low compared to mode 1). Generally speaking it is a good mode to use on good batteries but it is not good for desulphating, unless you also use a cap dump. The charge density will not be as strong as mode one but it will charge much faster. It is also useful if you have a large battery which cannot seem to get fully charged in mode 1 because the machine has a small coil or whatever, usually the same machine run in gen mode can push a large battery up more.

Both methods have appropriate uses so I would not put one over the other, it is more of an application choice for what you need to charge.

To truly understand you could hear it from Mr. Bedini himself on last years conference video. I strongly believe in supporting him by purchasing his offerings.

http://www.teslagenx.com/dvds/eftv_3...?category=dvds

[double_d]

thanks, i just got my basic mode 1 operating. still playing w/ it as far as magnets and spacing, coil size and placement etc.

i have a question on charging....i don't actually have a good lead acid 12v to use but i have 2 'bad' ones. one is completely discharged at 2.5v and the other got overcharged and probably damaged (sealed top so i can't get a look inside) at about 8v. when i put the 2.5v on, it will go to something like 5v while charging. i haven't left it on very long to see what happens. the 2nd battery, at 8v, started charging at 8.8v and after a few days of messing around, it up to 9.25v while charging.

is the charge differential (vs the current state of charge) usually small and builds? or should the design put out 12v+ at all times even if the charge battery is lower? i am running off a 12v power supply because it makes testing easier.

yes, i do not fully understand what i am doing, so always looking for simplified explanations.

[BobZilla]

I would suggest that you keep tinkering with mode 1 until you know your machine really well but other modes can be fun too. Keep adjusting gaps spacing because it all teaches you something even if it is not helping it is good to observe.

Now about the bad batteries. Of course I cannot say to you that yes we can fix them for sure, BUT I can suggest to you a few things to help possibly brin them back. The first one down at2v ,, don't have much hope for that one but may as well try him too. What you want to do for about a week or so is charge them for a small amount of time then discharge, and repeat. You are also going to want to get them open and make sure you have electrolyte. I am assuming you have some AGM's but in any case you want to get in there and make sure they are saturated. If they need it use some distilled water.

WHat you want to do is exercise them. Get a small resistive load like an auto light bulb, or a resistor ;-) ,,, and charge a bit, then pull that load. Charge again and pull the load. You will know pretty quickly if you are making progress. It will begin to have more capacity and the other two cells will start working. It is a long painful task to bring one back to life but it can be done as long as there is no plate damage or hard shorting between plates. So put another way don't charge it for long periods of time expecting that to help clear it up, it has very little capacity right now so once it's full it will not move more, it needs exercise.


One last thing is you really should stop using a PS and feed it DC. I wont go over it all but just take my word for it and grab a battery somewhere to run it on and tell me if you do not lke your results better.

[double_d]

interesting that you suggest a battery instead of PS. i was using the 9v one as my primary for a bit, it had enough juice to run it for awhile, and it seemed to charge the same. but then, it was a pretty shot battery so i'm guessing that probably had something to do w/ the poor performance.

the 2v battery, i believe is a sealed AGM, the 9v is a sealed lead acid that i accidentally left on a high charge...i didn't realize until i could smell the acid in the garage, so i'm sure i boiled out some water and damaged the plates.

i need to make some improvements to the setup so i can adjust/swap coils/parts easier. it is at least satisfying to see it run via the PS and pretty much do what it's supposed to.

[Faraday88]

Hi Double_d,

when you run your SG in this mode the connection from the Charge Battery Negative goes to the Negative of the Run Battery, this is the Generator mode.
Why exactly this is named so is a very speculative question.....in my Guess it should have been better named as the Energizer Mode, as this is the mode which shows the OPEN- PATH or 'single wire' nature of the electric- Dipole exchanging with the Aether....and so on..
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[BobZilla]

Faraday You might want to re-think that.

The spike is not in play in this mode because you have put both batteries in the same polarity. This is a generator at this point, a real generator.

In mode one the collapsing field is directed toward the charge because of the series connection on the pri pos. It creates that reverse polarity loop to direct the spike. The forward loop just shorts the coil on the primary and is pretty much thrown away accept for the magnetic field which turns the wheel.

In gen mode that forward loop is applied to the charge in the same polarity and the spike is not.

If you draw it out on paper and trace the field both forward and backward you should see what I mean I think.

*EDIT*
Perhaps I should not say the spike is not in play but rather it is not being singled out and redirected as it is in mode one. It is actually more like the original North Pole motor that the little girl built.

[Faraday88]

Hi Bobzilla,
Thanks for that little tip on the 'modes of operations' we all have our own way of conceptualizing things don't we..? nevertheless when used in the mode one way... you use the Dipole in the 'Closed' fashion which in other words can be termed as Symmetrically gauging the Spike.. the tips are given to us ..it only remains as to how well we use them to fit where they need to be!!!!
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[Patrikas]

Hi there,
i have been reading this thread and many others trying to learn as much as i can about the ssg ......2 months ago i bought an 8 trannie board and coil from teslagenx and put my wheel together .....it took me a full month to get it going being inexperienced with electronics ...a complete newbie.......i spent months reading this forum before hand till i felt comfortable with the lingo and had a basic understanding of what some of the components are ........

anyways i finally found the problem that stopped my sg running i had put all 24 magnets on the wheel "22 5/8 diameter" or what every one here calls a 26 inch bike wheel so i now run 21 magnets and the wheel is running ok ... i dont have a lot of test equipment yet just a basic digital multimeter ......

during my early tries at getting the ssg up and running i also hooked up the front end battery backwards resulting in burning out the trace in the board " between the positive out back to the first diodes on either side of the board" and 2 diodes which i repaired it seems to be running fine now.....mode 1 is all i have tried .....im looking now at some sort of simple cap dump method so i can run the back end to the front any advice for a newbie would be appreciated i dont wanna burn my board out if u know what i mean

i managed to get my hands on 5 aircraft batterys the ones they use in cessnas that were no good all had about 5 volts in them i have 2 that have been rejuvinated really well one has a dead short so its no good the other two i am in the process of what bobzilla shared with charge a little and run it out the a little more run it out etc etc ......which as he says works but takes a lot of time ...
i have also rejuvinated a small garden tractor battery that died about 2 years ago it now has a standing voltage of around 12.67 volts .....according to my multimeters.i have 2 ....even tho i have cycled it quite a few times up to around 15.1-2 volts it will not start my tractor it spins it over but not fast enough to start ..it seems to me there are plenty of volts there but no cranking amps .......can anyone shed some light on this for me .....thanx ...Pat m

[BobZilla]

Hi Pat,

First this part:

.even tho i have cycled it quite a few times up to around 15.1-2 volts it will not start my tractor it spins it over but not fast enough to start ..it seems to me there are plenty of volts there but no cranking amps .......can anyone shed some light on this for me

I suspect that it just does not have enough capacity built back up yet. Keep cycling it on your machine and it should improve to the point where it can be a starter again. Remember starters use a heck of a lot of current in a short time so it needs the capacity as well as the voltage. Keep working it and you should get better results.,

Now for your cap dumping question. my advice is for now do not worry about cap dumping. learn the machine in mode one first, I mean really learn it beyond just getting it to run.

In a short term you can move one from the back to the front. This will not be good in a long term, eventually you would just loose on both but a few runs is fine while you are just trying to break up the sulphation. Once you are ready to actually use them as storage you will not want to continue doing that.

There are many ways to do cap dumps. You can use a reed switch and a magnet if your cap is not too large to burn out the reed switch, you can use a relay in a similar way but with the relay you use a smaller voltage and current to switch the relay which switches the cap. There are also ways to use SCR's, Zener diodes, FET's ,, I myself use an aurdrino. Take my advice though please and just stick to the basics at first and by the time you get those down you will be ready for cap dumping.

Those aircraft batteries are AGM's so be aware not to dry them out. Good luck..

[Patrikas]

Bobzilla ,
thanx for the reply and advice , what you suggest is absolutley correct ....lots to learn and observe yet for me

The aircraft batterys i have are the lead acid g-35,s i looked up the specs on them 12v 19 or 23 ah, the garden battery i will continue to cycle and see if i can build some cranking amps into it ,, rather than just put a car bulbs on my batterys to cycle them i have ordered led lighting for my workshop so ill get some lighting during the rejuvination process......i have also just bought a 40 watt solar panel and ordered a 3 amp solar tracker... im sure you know where i hope to go from that, i like what Patrick is doing and have plans for eventually putting my house and workshop lighting off the grid ....and as i learn more we will see ,
thanks for the input and good advice stay well .....Pat m