Solid State Build

[BobZilla]

Hello Group,
I have constructed a new Solid State energizer and I thought I would share the details for those who are interested.

I have used a TeslagenX circuit board in this build which works VERY well with a little modification. HUGE thanks to Tom C and the guys over there. I highly recommend them!






First off let me just say that I am not responsible for any mishaps if someone tries to replicate what I have done. With that said I am providing as many details as possible so that if YOU choose too try I can get you in the ball park.

Before I get into the component specs let me explain a little about general operation. I engineered this to have four branch charging legs independent of each other. As you will see in the picture I have combined the outputs with a little bus bar into two sets. If I were to remove those bars than I would have four outputs but I choose to combine them for two sets of independent parallel outputs. It is designed to charge two batteries from one primary. I believe that if you want to combine outputs this is where you do it, at the output of the diode, not at the collector leg.



You will also need to move the bottom end of the trigger wire. Normally it is running to the emitter but we need to move it to the Primary Positive/ Charge Negative Bus.

[Ed_Morbus]

Thanks Bob
Have you circuit schematic
Need circuit diagram of potentiometer and diode connection

[Tom C]

Hi Bob,

thanks for the mention. the experimenters board is very flexible, thanks for showing everyone the mods you have done. I am glad your coil is working for you. Let us know how we can help, if it is within our means we will.

Tom C

[John_Koorn]

Hey Bob,

Great report. Thanks for sharing.

John K.

[BobZilla]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate everything you do from supporting the forum to the products you have made available.

@ Ed
It is basically the standard Bedini circuit but with multiple transistors. As I mentioned when you add the diode to the pot you want the band pointing towards your base resistors and the bottom trigger wire gets moved over to the Primary Positive. The capacitor attaches to both legs of the pot. AC caps seem to work best but if you use a DC cap make sure you have polarity correct. The side that the diode is connected too will be positive.


Here is the standard circuit diagram.

Link:
http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...e-diagram.html

[Ed_Morbus]

Bob thank you
is not clear to me
a picture says more than words

[BobZilla]

Just a quick update.

I discovered I had made a Boo-boo when I was testing. One of my transistors was getting unusually warm and it did not make sense to me. I based this machine off of my two transistor model and that one never got hot so I was scratching my head.

Well I eventually found the problem, I had one power wire inverted. Man it was a pain in the arse figuring it out! I actually damaged the board a bit from removing parts and putting them back several times over. It was no fault of the board, I just couldn't figure out what the problem was so I started removing transistors and diodes etc. After I had pretty much run through the whole thing of course then I spotted the problem. It was a very sneaky problem because you know if you just do a continuity check across the wires it appeared correct,, Duh but the direction was not. So anyway I patched it back up and it is working good. I destroyed the copper traces on one transistor mount so I made connections with pieces of resistor legs cut off to sort of jumper across my goof up.

I suppose it is all part of the learning game you know. So the darn thing is working great now but my original intermediate resistor value will need to be changed. I currently have the 500 ohm in there but I can only go as high as around .65 amp on the draw with that, I will need to lower it a bit so that I can get at least around 1-1.5 amp which is how I wanted it originally for large batteries. I am thinking probably around 350 ohm or so should do the trick.

@Mike
Yup I want to know about that too my friend. So far I have had no problem charging 5AH and 10 AH fully. I need to change that resistor so I can pull more and then I can work on the big batteries. I like messing with the small ones for testing because you can get through it so much faster.

I think what I may do is put both of my charge legs on a battery so that I can show you guys a charge curve. As I said before I have one digital meter and two charge legs so I don't know how else I could show the machines performance. It is designed for two legs though to take advantage of branch outputs.

I will post back with some more results later on.

[BobZilla]

Here it is switched on.



When looking at it you will notice how choppy and ugly it looks with lots of rises and falls. This is because the other battery was rising at each place this one was falling. They bounce back and fourth as they rise in voltage so this chart is not going to look like the normal charts we are used to looking at, it is only half of the picture. You can however get a sense of the over all charge rate. I am thinking about getting another meter so that I can chart both sides but for now I don’t have that capability. I suspect that if I could chart the other side it would have an inverse relationship to the first. Maybe I could do a transparent overlay of both charts to represent the total.



Final resting voltages
Primary=11.3 C1=12.4 C2=12.6

I should note that these batteries usually rest at around 12.7 when coming off a conventional charger as well, so we are darn close to a full charge. These things are huge AGM and they behave a little differently from flooded cells. I maybe could have gone a bit longer since the Pri bounced back to 11.3 but it is what it is.


Ok my friends I am going to keep tinkering with this circuit. I know I can get this tuned better. I wanted to share these results because I do not believe in just posting all success and “look how great I am” kind of material. I started this post just after I had my build ready to run; you are going on this journey along with me. Data is data, whether it looks favorable or not it is important for those of us who are committed to bringing this technology forward. I do not look at this virgin run as a failure at all, just a stepping stone to a better result next time. This machine charges the heck out of smaller batteries but I am shooting for large capacity. Hopefully I can get it there ---Bob

[John_Koorn]

Hi Bob,

Nice work. I know it's early days and you're still fine tuning, but are you planning to do some load testing?

I'm playing with a SS setup using the same board as you, but only one charge battery at his stage. Still trying to tune it properly but so far getting great results.

John K.

[BobZilla]

Hi John,
I'm not sure what you mean with load testing? Do you mean putting loads on the charged batteries to see how good of a charge it actually is receiving? If that is how you mean than I do not really meter the discharge cycle or monitor it very much. I have an external system that i run these batteries on and it pulls around 2.5A load. I just run them down to around 12V on that system and then charge them back up. I am running them now actually and they seem to be pretty strong even though they didn't really get a complete charge.

I probably need to improve on my monitoring of power in /power out but up until now I generally just charge up the batteries and run them down by doing real work for that external system.

[John_Koorn]

Hi Bob,

Yes, that's what I mean. But you can be as accurate as you want to be. For example if you know the machine pulls 1A and you ran it for 76 hours that 76Ah.

Then if you load your charge batteries at 2.5A you only have to get over a combined 30 hours and you're over the top.

John K.

[BobZilla]

I see what you mean John. I will attempt to do some load tests after I get the machine running good. I have always thought though that it is a tricky situation to get completely accurate readings since we do not run batteries all the way down say like a capacitor could be. What I mean is measuring stuff precisely on top of a buffer that is always present in both the primary and charge batteries.

Also as the voltage drops on your discharging battery so would the current rate unless you compensate say with a pot or something and if the load is say a light bulb than the draw really changes over time. I have seen some of the members talking about a professional discharge unit,, something CB mountain such and such,,, Anyway I'm sure I could come up with some basic testing. These machine amaze me even without trying to prove out the OU. Just the fact that I can build myself a battery charger that does a better job than a store bought one and can do some neat tricks like charge 24V with 12V etc,, just amazing.

I went out and purchased a second digital meter last night. I intend to capture charts on both charge legs simultaneously. I have not tried that yet and I'm not sure that the software for the meter can have two instances running on the same pc though. If not I have a second laptop I can use but it is a tiny 12inch screen so the pictures would not be the same scale, I'm hoping I won't have to go that route. It will take lots of time to get data collected on various runs but with this second meter you know I could run it as an amp meter and we could see exactly when the current drops down on the primary or where I adjust the pot etc.

I haven't decided but I am thinking I may do a test run just like the previous but with small batteries. I have 5AH or 10AH that I could do a run on. It might be cool to see the machine at least performing a complete charge. I think I just need to set my draw higher for the large batteries, not enough tickle current on that last run.

[John_Koorn]

Mike, I'm tuning on the fly but recording draw current, frequency, max and delta voltages on the scope. Also recording cap dump frequency with the comparator. Checking for heat anywhere as well.

John K.

[John_Koorn]

Mike,

I don't know much about SMPS's or what sort of caps are in them. You can find a (photo) flash cap in a disposable film camera (remember those?), although they are usually like 80uF 400v - used to store enough energy to fire the xenon flash in the camera. They're great for a small cap pulser but too small if you have a large SG. I've found it's usually cheaper to buy the whole camera than try and purchase just the cap separately.

Basically, you want a fast discharge cap. Something that will discharge the cap into the charge battery very quickly. As a general rule of thumb fast discharge caps are tall and skinny, rather than short and fat.

John K.

[BobZilla]

Mike here is a picture of a flash cap still on the board.

I have a bag of them, they came out of kodak disposable cameras like John said.



You can get them dirt cheap here ;-)

Link:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G17610