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The 3d Monopole Coil How To Build
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I've narrowed it down to being caused by arcing. Speed of the rotor is only a factor as far as generating higher voltages. I was using multiple reed switches and possibly a loose connection. I tried it on a different machine and could only reproduce it by double arcing a reed switch. Purposely making a loose connection to it. I know from past experience trying to find a connection between static electricity and magnetic electricity, it is the spark gap. There are probably other factors involved here too though.
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I haven't spent a lot of time on it but it is really hard to reproduce the effect. I come close, nothing happens for awhile then the needle will start bouncing and swaying. I don't know what I'm doing is what it is.
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I was experimenting with different trigger systems for the wheel. I was using a reed switch and got it spinning real fast. The spark gap was purple color. Anyway, I noticed a magnetic compass that was laying on the bench, the needle had deflected and started bobbing up and down. It was sitting far enough away that it's not effected by the magnets at slow speed or stationary. At a certain speed a magnetic wave is propagated I think.
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Hi Notsure,
Originally posted by Notsure View PostI don't know what FWBR is, but yeah, that's how I do it.
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Hi Notsure
I'm not really comfortable coming back on here and commenting, so I will forgo my usual long-windedness.
Back when everyone started going dark on here, Patrick was posting something he did, and I began to wonder what effect it would have as a driver for the zero-force motor. I have not gotten around to trying it out. Perhaps you might give it a go and report back.
Here is a link to Patrick's video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41cfHcb7qd8
OK, I'll just slink back off to darkville...
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Originally posted by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho View PostHi Notsure and Patrick (good to see you again Patrick)
I can't help thinking that we are looking at a version of the zero-force motor...am I correct?Last edited by Notsure; 03-25-2016, 04:36 PM.
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Hi Notsure and Patrick (good to see you again Patrick)
I can't help thinking that we are looking at a version of the zero-force motor...am I correct?
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Originally posted by Notsure View PostSorry about that, magnets are horizontal, poles are vertical. !/2" thick, 1 3/4" down to 1" taper width. 2" long. I bought them along time ago for a wind generator I never built. I heard they hassle you with code enforcement officers.
Very nice!
so is the FWBR connected like this?:
Thanks again,
Patrick
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Sorry about that, magnets are horizontal, poles are vertical. !/2" thick, 1 3/4" down to 1" taper width. 2" long. I bought them along time ago for a wind generator I never built. I heard they hassle you with code enforcement officers.
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Originally posted by Notsure View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]5201[/ATTACH]
Those 2 sets of coils set pretty much like that is all you need.
that's a beauty!
I'm still unclear on the orientation of your magnets. You note in an earlier post "magnets have poles vertical."
can you describe that a little more clearly for me? I'm not exactly sure how vertical orients itself on your machine. Do you mean south is facing "down" toward the coils? and the magnets are 1/2" thick? how wide and long are they?
Thanks for sharing this by the way...
Kind regards - Patrick
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I'll get some pictures up for you later. The main thing is this method can spin a heavy rotor with big magnets and still have torque with a low draw on the battery. Also it gives a fairly decent output if the positive and negative are switched at the same time. That is, having the coils paired together in series and wired on the ends, switching with a reed switch in the middle. Using a full bridge rectifier it gives a separate ground from the main battery. The reed switch is a big one and can handle quite a bit but I've burned up a lot of them this way too. I think it was more from the magnets, so I printed up another inner wheel with only two smaller magnets on it. So I can fire more switches in succession to the same coils instead of putting it all on one switch. I got it to work using a trigger coil and transistor, the trigger coil has to have a high impedance and it ran cold, but the output was real low. The reed switches give more heat to the coils. There is a lot going on magnetically in all directions. Even though the magnets are all one pole facing down, the opposite pole is between them. This is also true of the coils. I guess you could say it's more 3d.
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