On my ezspin, when I added the diode to recover the spike to a cap, I used a reed once per revolution to dump the cap back to the source.
I noticed a few things
1 – the rotor speeds up.
2 – the single diode does not recover all of the energy out there. All of these coils are in series having a diode at the end of the series only covered some of the energy. I placed a diode about half way through the series and was able to recover more. Excited, I placed a diode on each coil and to my disappointment it was the law of diminishing returns… however.
3 - If I placed a separate capacitor on each of the diodes, now we’re getting somewhere. I found the best balance by placing a diode’n cap every other coil. This got me very very close to 100% recovery. Alas I think my build is not efficient enough.
Kind regards,
Patrick A.
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The 3d Monopole Coil How To Build
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Originally posted by John_Bedini View PostThe small one,
This is by far the smallest one I have done yet. This was a real pain to do since I had to hold the coils to wind them. I also had to file the rotor and some parts. Think I’m going to re-draw rotor with slots to slip in magnets as they are about 5 mm X 1.5mm. Coils 650 turns #40 wires the printer seems be able to print this just fine. The energizer is about 64 mm in diameter. Will post when it is running.
John
[ATTACH=CONFIG]4717[/ATTACH]
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The small one
The small one,
This is by far the smallest one I have done yet. This was a real pain to do since I had to hold the coils to wind them. I also had to file the rotor and some parts. Think I’m going to re-draw rotor with slots to slip in magnets as they are about 5 mm X 1.5mm. Coils 650 turns #40 wires the printer seems be able to print this just fine. The energizer is about 64 mm in diameter. Will post when it is running.
John
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At All,
Yes I know what you mean the ez spin can be a real pain in the butt. But remember it is a monopole with series coils. The 123 D Cad program can be a real pain also when it starts to slow down, main causes, Swap file, and anti-virus. Anyway try to run it in attraction by placing the reed a little more off the neutral point between the coils it will make a big difference. You can also run it off an earth battery; I have watched it do some strange things running that way when ground currents change. The 8 Pole I’m going to run in attraction very efficient that way as I said if you study the way the ez spin runs you will see it running past the neutral point of the magnetic field it’s almost a zero force motor but the coils would be oriented in a different direction I will try to post a drawing of the fields so you can see what I mean. I have studied this type of motor since the beginning of my research on the Stubblefield motor. His motor was the first pulse motor running on Earth currents and not from the coil itself. Here is a drawing of the 8 pole I will set the reed so it runs past the neutral point in attraction.
John
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Hey John, good to hear you're getting some great results with the 3d monopole.
One question - are you using the same SSG circuit that Shawnee Baughman used for her science fair project? The one with the single battery?
John K.
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Some Things To Think About
At All.
I just thought I would give a report on the 12 pole monopole and some of the things that I have observed The Energizer has been running for two days now. I said I moved the reed switch had to be placed above the coil as when the spacing of the coils is very tight. I started with a very low battery around 1.2 volts that I have taken out of a bench meter, just so you know where it came from. Anyway I have been checking the battery every 3 hrs. and here is what is happening the battery is increasing in voltage as the battery is now at 1.589 volts and I think I can explain this to the group. This is caused by what I call the Newman effect when the back charge is laid back across the battery; this battery is an alkaline and not reachable. Anybody that has built a Newman Motor and used the commutator has seen this effect with this type of battery. This effect is common to the people that have built the motor with the pancake commutator with brushes. It does not mean that the motor will keep running as soon the chemical dries out the battery will quit. This is not a perpetual motion device it’s just very efficient, like in the 98% range. And if you could get the back charge much higher you might make Cop of 1 but that would take a lot of work. But this is not my intention at this time as it was to build a 3D printed monopole that everybody could build very easy.
John
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Congrats John, you lost me about half way through, but pretty darn good for me, and perhaps just what I need to try and continue to progress. With the new fabrication ability that is coming about, either from one's printer or outsourcing, a circuit diagram, a 3d Cad and watchout world.
For what it is worth I am going to start a thread based on your patented work, and the Telsa switch stuff which I learned about from your video. It is a a solid state Arduino pulser. The pulse goes to a cap, is opto isolated and sent back to source. The source is set up with a common ground. It, discounting switching costs, is COP > 1. I am sorry to go a few sentences off topic, just trying not to be more than pleased as punch at it's behavior. This stuff is either your science or science I learned from you, jeez, finally have a good battery charger.
Any event sorry to be off topic, many thanks for the most recent work. Once completed, perhaps even in a slightly smaller version, it might be a good gift (perhaps to confound recalcitrant relatives).
Ciao,
Paul
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did work good
To All,
I have completed the first Motor /Energizer. Now I will give some figures, yes it does run on a capacitor and does charge it. However the coils in the arrangement they are in make it very difficult to align the reed switch for the proper sweet spot. I arranged the coils for the tightest arrangement, so the reed must be mounted above the coil to the left side and not in the center between the coils. For some numbers, Coil resistance totals 8.688 K ohms, 360 MH. 2001 turns of wire on each coil # 32 Magnet wire. I did find some problems with mounting things and so I did go into the drawings and change some things. But for first print it was successful and seems to work real well. The other thing is that it does prove that monopole generators work as to how much it returns to the source is another question. The return power is much lower because the current meter is not showing a current in the opposite direction as if it is recharging anything, I have not hooked a diode up yet. Normally with the Monopole if in attraction you could use a linear regulator and supply the second battery with an exact amount of current, or use the pulse charger. This machine is going to work much different as far as recharge goes. I’m not even sure that what they are claiming on You-Tube that it is in push pull, it’s almost like it is caught in a balance condition between north and south poles. You can only see these things when the coil spacing is tight. Now the other thing is it can only be attraction with the reed in the center as the magnet has already passed the 0 balance point of the coils, so in other words it turns on in attraction and the north coil does nothing to help to make a push pull motor, the rotor would have north and south poles on the rotor and use something like the Bedini/ Cole switch. But this can be arranged to do that with two reeds 180 out from each other. If you were going to go through all this trouble to arrange the coils in series filliped on each coil just add the correct amount of magnets for each pole and make a pancake monopole in attraction / or repulsion either way it would work excellent at very low current. Anyway bigger coils as a 4 or 6 poles would make the correct pancake monopole with output to charge batteries.
Oh I forgot to say that it ran all night on a super cap it was charged at 5 volts and reading taken at about 10 in the morning the voltage on the cap was about 3.4 volts when I stopped it to solder things together.
John
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Been playing with the DaVinci AiO like what John has been using. Had problem with the nozzle dragging the work around the table and it was a gap issue with the nozzle being too far from the plate. I found a solution that works perfect. If Tom or any other 3d printing experts can give me their feedback if the solution I'm using is definitely the way to go - here it is: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post21410
Also, with these microvolt and microamp ranges for these small monopoles, seems like we might be able to run it off a crystal radio circuit.
Anyway, can't wait to see one run by touching the electrodes.
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The Coils And Picture
Just getting my coils wound with the bobbins I have printed of which I have given you all, the size in MM. It looks like 2001 turns number 32 wire, resistances is 826.77 ohms for each coil for a total of 12 coils in series gives me about 9921.24 Ohms or close to 10K ohms for the total it works out to be about .15 micro amps I would suspect the voltage will much lower using the Crystal cells then a 1.5 volt battery. Each coil has the exact number of turns since my coil winding machine is counting to the exact turn. I’m making sure you have the numbers if you’re going to build this machine. This could change a little depending on the length of wire hooking them up. I’m testing a super cap of 4 farads at 5.5 volts to see how long it will power the device in hours, so far 3 hrs. Has not dropped .5 volts across the 10k resistor this will change also with it being pulsed, much extended run time. Will give the figures in how much your fingers can generate holding the electrodes. Back to winding coils, I’m using a LCR bridge to measure all of this. I will go back and measure the coils again when they are all hooked up in series and give all the figures. Here is a picture of the mounted coils. Update....... 12 Hrs 3.13 volts going down to .7 volts
John
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I dig it! Really cool stuff!
Originally posted by John_Bedini View PostNo I’m looking at running mechanical things off 3D printed items with just the touch of your fingertips on electrodes. As you all know you output about 100 watts per day. That is really not enough to keep you running so where is the extra energy coming from? It must all be generated in each cell, again micro amps. I must start on a very small scale. The 3D printer is the best solution in the parts it can produce. Like I said, I want the energizer to run just by touching the electrodes. It looks like my wire size is going to be around number 32 to 35 but I will give the exact turns for the coil size which is 27.43 mm X27.43 mm X 11.19 mm length. The real question is where is the energy coming from because it is not in the food. It seems that you have a built in converter of some type supplying it as long as you drink water, water is the most important key. Just gave you all something to think about. Waiting for my wire so I can get the coils wound for this energizer.
John
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Barrie,
Your enthusiasm is to be commended, however it may be time to trim your sails a bit mate, and have your comments be on topic and accurate. The drivel about tanks rolling down main street and breathairians is perhaps better suited for a thread of your own making. Be a positive attraction to this thread and not an annoying distraction.
Yaro
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Read " Healing is Voltage" by Jerry Tennant. Interesting read and theory.
Tom
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