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  • Originally posted by twalters View Post
    Vtech, Thanks for the explanation regarding the difference between 3 x 9 vs 4 x 9 silver. I never read their was a worthwhile difference for the extra cost of 4 x 9, but rather the difference is so small to have any substantial meaning. However, if we are getting undesirable trace elements that would make a difference. Can you recommend a source in the U.S.?
    Since I am not an electronics guy, I had no knowledge of the reason for the incandescent seed bulb, but now I do. After letting my progress in assembling the CS maker slip too long, I rushed to get moving again. However, I need to find a different Radio Schack store with more parts since they did not have the bulb in stock when I purchased parts a couple of months ago. Instead I purchased a LED 15ma, 25mcd, 12VDC. Will this LED have enough of a load or should I just exchange it for the proper bulb?

    One step at a time.....
    Hi Tom. There is a slight difference in price between 999 and 9999. I wouldn't go for 99999 since the price starts to climb 10 fold compared to 9999. Depending on source you may get set of electrodes (four nines) for less than $20. Try those guys - Pure Silver, Fine 9999 and 999 wire
    I was going to order from them but they have some issues with shipping to Canada. 14 gauge wire is $11 plus shipping. I didn't request analysis report but they should be able to provide such. One advice; when sourcing silver never mention what you're going to use it for. Some people may freak and refuse to deal with you. I would try to get grain of wheat bulb. LED alone will not work the same way.
    You can use this simple circuit below as constant current supply. 1.2k resistor can be adjusted for uA output range. I tried and it works fine. 2N2222, BC547 or similar.
    Click image for larger version

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    Regards
    Vtech
    Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-08-2013, 01:35 AM.

    Comment


    • VTech,
      I just noticed the circuit diagram, tku
      Secondly, I just received a .9999 ag assay from AtlasNova
      Click image for larger version

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      The highest trace elements are copper, gold and lead, nickel down the list. Are these acceptable limits?

      Comment


      • Hi Twalters.

        I wouldn't worry about traces of gold . This is 99.997, which means that 0.003 are max. allowable impurities. I've seen 4 nines - 99.99 but the next digit was 2 (99.992) which was still advertised as 9999 but the amount of impurities was 0.008p. Quite a difference. You can get 99.999 (five nines) but the price is prohibitive. Canadian Maple Leaf coin is the only one (known to me) having 99.99 purity.
        99.997 is what I use and it is fine in my opinion.
        Coax cable sockets from discarded TV's make nice electrode socket for 14ga silver wire.
        Click image for larger version

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        What I did was to gently drill (just deep enough to make a hole bigger but not too deep since internal connecting springs may get violated) plastic insert on both side of F coax jack. One side with 1/8" and other side with 5/32". 1/8" will accept 14ga silver wire while other side will work with standard medical electrode wires. Before modification it was a bit hard to push silver wire in and leads wouldn't fit at all.
        I'm still waiting for few components to test entire unit.
        I like the idea of timing process in relation to the conductivity (TDS) rather than plain timer. Variables, such as water temperature can result in more than 5ppm during the same period of time.
        I'll try to get Negative Ion circuit based on voltage multiplier done and tested tomorrow.

        Thanks
        Vtech
        Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-13-2013, 12:43 AM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by vallentin View Post
          @Vtech,
          It's a great idea to combine the Beck device, timer and a PPM meter into a single portable unit.
          What do you say about automatically disconnecting the CS circuit once the PPM meter has reached a preset? Doable?
          Thanks!
          Valentin
          @Vallentin @ All
          I was thinking more about ways to measure and there is perhaps another way to "skin the cat".
          If we have limiting resistor/bulb in series with electrodes, total potential from batteries (approx 30V) should be divided across resistor and between electrodes. During the process each potential will change due to increased conductivity of colloid. If we could feed one of them into voltage comparator input and put zener diode in the other input we may be able to turn device off at set value. Let's say when colloid reaches 10ppm potential across the electrodes is 5.6V. We can put 5.6V zener between negative rail and - in of comparator. Once potentials on both inputs are equal we get high on the output which we can use to feed transistor turning small relay. I would try op amp which doesn't require symmetric power supply, such as 741. Maybe LM358 would be good candidate?
          All those cheaper ppm meters measure conductivity, which is the same thing as above. All it needs is calibration. If this idea would work it will be superior to a timer which works its way regardless of water purity or TDS. Beside, it can be just as simple as making timer.
          Small panel meter in series with output can be calibrated too and it will provide reliable feedback about water and solution being made but it will not prevent from leaving device running longer than necessary.

          What do you think?

          I just realized one thing. When process is initiated, potential across silver electrodes may reach close to 30V and will gradually drop when solution is being made all the way to 5-6V.
          The opposite will occur across the resistor, where low potential will continue to increase up to approx. 24V. Both high values are exceeding IC parameters so additional voltage divider has to be made to stay within IC limits. I need to meditate on this a bit more to make it work. It seems easier to probe across limiting resistor since potential across will be raising from couple V to 24V (approx). The only catch is to divide input source 2:1 so op amp will "see" only 12V at max. and terminate process once input will equal zener diode value.
          Below is the circuit I'm trying.

          Vtech

          Click image for larger version

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          Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-12-2013, 02:53 PM. Reason: follow up

          Comment


          • Well, it seems that my idea works. LM358 can operate from 3-32V not 15V as I thought. I replaced zener diode for 24V. All needs to be done is to measure potential across limiting resistor at desired ppm level and use zener diode for such value. Once this potential is reached, LM358 will provide output to switch whatever we wish - LED, buzzer etc. It is possible to use this circuit with relay cutting supply (turning device off) but it would have to be latching relay - the one which remains in last position without drawing current and with reset option.

            Vtech
            Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-13-2013, 12:48 AM.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by blackchisel97 View Post
              @Vallentin @ All
              ...
              What do you think?
              Vtech

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]1347[/ATTACH] Updated - [ATTACH=CONFIG]1351[/ATTACH]
              Exactly what I was thinking & asking you!
              Thanks!

              Comment


              • One thing, if using Schottky diodes output voltage may exceed 32V however, with 1n4001 it will stay near 30V due to the higher semiconductor junction drop.

                Another idea: since it isn't practical using battery for CS process while at home, why not make power supply providing 30V instead of using booster converter?
                Small 24V transformer, even 1W will do. Bridge rectifier and capacitor will provide 33.8VDC (24x1.41=33.84). Simple voltage regulator built around LM317 can be set at 30V. All we need to add is current limiter and either a timer or termination reminder from the above posts.
                Below is the diagram. 5k Pot can be replaced with fixed resistor once 30V is set.
                Click image for larger version

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                Thanks
                Vtech
                Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-13-2013, 01:22 PM.

                Comment


                • Interesting reading about the use of LF signals - Decloaking Pathogens With Low-Frequency Sound

                  Vtech

                  Comment


                  • This is block diagram of my project - Dr Beck BE+CS. For CS making DC power supply can be used. It will disconnect internal battery when connected to the unit. This version is with timer which will provide audible tone after set time (calibrated at 20degC, volume of distilled water and 5ppm TDS). Timer will work only when powered from external source to preserve battery life. Battery should be only used for electrifier function. Bi color flashing LED will disconnect when electrode plug gets inserted into 3.5mm socket. Diode prevents timer from being connected when using electrifier function.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Timer chip should read CD4060.
                    Vtech
                    Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-30-2013, 04:18 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Hi guys. Just a quick note: In the schematic of Dr Beck Electrifier (a.k.a zapper) bi color LED is connected directly to the reversed 18V Zener diodes. On the other side LED goes to the capacitor and output jack. It is possible to put 5.6k resistor in series to limit their current draw. They're disconnected as soon as 3.5mm male plug is inserted into the socket anyhow but with such limiter their power draw is reduced about 10 x and they can be even left running during treatment. Tried and tested.

                      Thanks
                      Vtech
                      Last edited by blackchisel97; 01-29-2013, 09:30 PM.

                      Comment


                      • My latest Electrifier + CS Generator according to Dr Beck. It can run from single 9V battery for BE and external DC adapter for Colloidal Generator. It takes about 35min at room temp. to get a glass of 5ppm colloid. I'm using distilled water only. Just finished two units, one more to go.

                        Thanks
                        VtechClick image for larger version

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                        • " The Pocket Doctor "

                          Hi Vtech

                          It looks very professional are you intend on selling those?, (just takes some time building them thou)

                          one can actually call those " The Pocket Doctor "

                          (You can actually use the adapter to charge/top up a 9v Nicad battery inside while making CS.

                          Also see if you have a signage guy close by they can print a nice label with instructions etc. (for the front in small quantities if you want.)

                          Really looks good, good work !

                          Theunis
                          Hey !
                          WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH THE PORTION OF SOLAR ENERGY THAT WAS ALLOCATED TO YOU TODAY? !
                          JUST THINK ABOUT IT . . .

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by blackchisel97 View Post
                            My latest Electrifier + CS Generator according to Dr Beck. It can run from single 9V battery for BE and external DC adapter for Colloidal Generator. It takes about 35min at room temp. to get a glass of 5ppm colloid. I'm using distilled water only. Just finished two units, one more to go.

                            Thanks
                            Vtech[ATTACH=CONFIG]1443[/ATTACH]
                            ok its "kit time" let me know I have been looking for a cs generator, I have access to the right silver rods but did not want some of those junky ones, this looks awesome!!

                            Tom C


                            experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

                            Comment


                            • Generator label

                              Vtech

                              Send me the info you want on the Generator label, ( also if you want one on the back side with instructions ), (I have the same enclosure here), will do the layout for you this side and send you a pdf that you can take to the sign guys for labels and make a professional looking product.

                              You can PM me.

                              You already have a first client ! ( uncle TomC )

                              Theunis
                              Hey !
                              WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH THE PORTION OF SOLAR ENERGY THAT WAS ALLOCATED TO YOU TODAY? !
                              JUST THINK ABOUT IT . . .

                              Comment


                              • Thank you guys. I just spent another half a day trying to convert my pcb JPEG to something "readable" by industry. Royal pain in the ...... . The guy is willing to work from JPEG format but wanted me to resize and separate both layers; silk and copper. I figure out, he wants one layer with just a pads and other with copper traces but not 100% sure if we understand each other. I did both, resized and mailed to him. There is no multilayer option in MS Paint! (which is my favorite).
                                I want about 20pcs for myself and was going to get some extra in case if anyone would like to build his own. This pcb is for single 9V unit with constant current circuit and built in timer (which will be set for 5ppm) and audible (buzzer) reminder. Total size of pcb is about 55mmx58mm.
                                Those three units don't have timer, only constant current circuit. I tried and it takes approx 35min for 5ppm and 60min for 8ppm. I'm using 3.5" 14ga silver rods and distilled water. I use Hanna TDS meter with resolution of 0.2ppm. They're built on experimental pcb. Quite waste of space but it was my only option a.t.m.

                                There are different options for connecting to the silver rods. Some people use alligator clips but I like the idea of F type coax sockets and TENS cables. It looks more professional (IMO). Some 2.5mm sockets have really short threaded neck and thicker plastic panel needs to be countersunk, in order for the nut to grab. Buzzers need to be an "active" type (they only require DC to work). Passive ones need a signal source (same idea as headphone or miniature speaker). I ordered small batch (in case if they're not what they suppose to be) and they just arrived today. Sound great.

                                Thank you Theunis for you offer.
                                I was thinking about label but there is only one switch ON-OFF-ON to select between CS and BE. Middle position cuts 9V line to the voltage booster and entire unit. There is not much room on the front panel for signage anyway, only the top could be used. I would print detailed instruction which explains everything and was thinking of making short YT as well.
                                Yes, I'm planning to make some units for sale. Same goes with other devices I was talking about in other threads. I'm waiting for more parts to go with Light Therapy and Magnetic Pulse projects. There is more on my plate but can only do so much at the time. I spent all day playing with one wire energy transfer and pancake coils to relax and change my thoughts. It worked

                                Thanks
                                Vtech

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