New energy from the vacuum DVDs Part 34

[Tom C]

Forrelle,

take your 2 smallest batteries, a vanilla SG and do your runs. the basic SG 20/23 coil is for a 10 to 14 AH battery. you gotta just do it with the basic set up. so use your 2 28AH batteries one for the front one for the back.

yes the cba is alright for load testing its what I use.

please do a load test at C20 on both your batteries after a standard charge so you have a baseline of the actual amp hours. if your charging battery is in good shape and your primary is in bad shape then you will not get thru a run with them. they need to have the same capacity.

use the coil and circuit you have.

on the old BM3 yahoo group we had over 3000 members and hundreds of replications.... you could not get advanced into the other multi coil groups until you had cop over 1 for 10 or so runs.

watch Patrick's videos

here is one of the experimenters pdf. look at the right side of page 5 it shows battery cop.

Tom C

[forelle]

have you done any runs without the cap dump? the comparator circuit regulates based on battery voltage, its not fixed. your coil is plenty big for what you are doing I would recommend doing runs without the cap dump for now. the Vanilla SG should get you to cop of 1. also I assume you have hi freespin time on your wheel and big wire to and from your batteries. do one run, change one thing do another run if it does not help change it back.... move on to the next.

Tom C

Hi Tom
I have not tried this setup without cap dump because its running since 2 days with the regular magnets,i have plenty Awg 22 wire for a smaller coil but i thought if i am in the C20 rate than its okay?You mean 28Ah or 44Ah batteries are to small?Is cap dump for conditioning the batteries not okay?I have the capdump because its easier to show the COP.Can you show me a thread where someone has a COP of 0.9 with the SG?I can use the plain Vanilla mode,is COP testing with the CBA okay?I have 90AH deepcycle batteries shall i use them?At the moment i need 24hours to charge a 22AH to 14,7 V but its down to 12 in 5 h.I know that the original coil from the bikewheel is Awg20 and 23.When you say its only working with this size than i have to change it.

[forelle]

Forelle,

Your air gap of 8 mm seems large. Can you try going down to 3.5 or 4 mm? This is in line of the recommended gap of 1/8 of an inch. In my experience the RPM will go down a little but this may actually help.

Another thing to mention is the external load on your wheel. In the Beginners book the SSG was shown with single air fan for moving air. But at the Bedini 2013 conference the SSG was shown with two of those same fans one on left and one on the right of the shaft. I believe John Bedini said that was to reduce the Amp draw from the primary battery by slowing the wheel down. Can someone else confirm that?

Kamen

I have tried the gap from 1mm to 10mm if i go nearer the Amp goes up and speed also,I have never tried a fan but i have tried a brake which slows the wheel down,doesnt show any difference,JB said in the video he has 2 Fan because he wants a spezific RPM.I thought Jb has it running at 1.5Amp.The Transistors should have 125-250ma,this would mean 875-1750 ma.
Can somebody show me a thread where a COP of 0.9 is reached with the SG?

[Tom C]

have you done any runs without the cap dump? the comparator circuit regulates based on battery voltage, its not fixed. your coil is plenty big for what you are doing I would recommend doing runs without the cap dump for now. the Vanilla SG should get you to cop of 1. also I assume you have hi freespin time on your wheel and big wire to and from your batteries. do one run, change one thing do another run if it does not help change it back.... move on to the next.

Tom C

[Kamen]

Forelle,

Your air gap of 8 mm seems large. Can you try going down to 3.5 or 4 mm? This is in line of the recommended gap of 1/8 of an inch. In my experience the RPM will go down a little but this may actually help.

Another thing to mention is the external load on your wheel. In the Beginners book the SSG was shown with single air fan for moving air. But at the Bedini 2013 conference the SSG was shown with two of those same fans one on left and one on the right of the shaft. I believe John Bedini said that was to reduce the Amp draw from the primary battery by slowing the wheel down. Can someone else confirm that?

Kamen

[forelle]

you can expect current draw to go up a bit with regular north versus scalar.................

please tell me again your specs. wire size, length of wire, number of strands, core diameter, transistor type, resistors, battery size, , what you are charging to and discharging to, etc

gotta change something else your coil may be to small for your batteries...

Tom C

Hi Tom
My wheel is made of steel,54cm dia,36 spokes,18 regular north magnets 40x25x10 mm,[email protected] Amp,The scalar north Rotor is 47 cm dia and 17 mag and [email protected] Amp
Coil:7xAwg 19,1xAwg 22,40m(132ft) long,Weldingrods R60 1.6mm,18mm(3/4") dia,85mm long,8mm distance core to mag
7 MJL 21194,470ohm baseresistance,pot 20 ohm
I have all new 2x14 AH Gel cell(20charge disch. cycles) and 2x22AH(340CC)Lawnmover lead acid(35 cycles)
Cap dump Capacitor 30000uf 100v low ESR,SCR 45Amp 1200V,100ma Gatecurrent,12V zener,it dumps every 0.85 sec from 23.5V down to battery V,i thougt i am so far away from 1to1 that its enough with the SCR or how many % is the comparator better?
Everything has roomtemperature
With this setup the batteries are to small,i paralell each two that i have 44AH and 28AH.
I let it run with one and charge the other and vice versa.I need ca.3 to charge 1 and without capdump it charges faster but dont hold the charge when i hook up a lamp with C20 rate its 3 times down than i need to charge.
The H-wave is a little broader than with scalar north and the last line before its straight is with reg a little crooked and with scalar more rectangular,the spike is not to see on the photo,its ca.40v and when i hook up a cap instead a battery without capdump it charges to 450v.

Thank you

[Tom C]

you can expect current draw to go up a bit with regular north versus scalar.................

please tell me again your specs. wire size, length of wire, number of strands, core diameter, transistor type, resistors, battery size, , what you are charging to and discharging to, etc

gotta change something else your coil may be to small for your batteries...

Tom C

[forelle]

Forelle,

Are you still using scalar north? if so that is why it shifts, also if your freewheel time is low, it requires more energy, and scalar north switches faster and pulls less current, so there is not as much energy transfered to rotation. these are electromechanical devices so all mechanical parameters (torque, consevation of inertia, etc) must all be taken into account.

also your resistance for the trigger will be different with different sized wire, and number of magnets. your charging current will vary depending upon your battery, I cannot tell you what is best for YOUR machine. I do not have experience with coils other than John's designed ones on rotored machines.

please read Ed Leedskalnins book on magnetic currents.

wire size really does make a difference, 22 for the trigger will require a different base resistance than 23.

Tom C

Hi Tom
I have changed the magnets to regular and the only difference i see at the moment is that i need 1/3 more current to run.Its spinning much faster and the cap is charging faster but in relation to the scalar north has a better performance.I let it run with C20 rate and watch what happens.Its hard to watch killing one battery after the other instead of making them better but i dont know what i should do,everything is cold,run time from wheel when i switch it off from 340 rpm with the coil atached ca.10min,the H-wave is perfect.Used different kind of batteries.After 2 years I come to a point where i think this technology works only in USA and not in Europe.I dont know what else i should adjust.The only thing left is that it has to do with what JB is not allowed to talk about.Even John Koorn`s bikewheel with scalar north magnets cant charge one battery with the other,what shall i think about this,slowly feels like i am in a church.Why does nobody show that he`s having a COP off 0.99,if they have fear to have COP1,show me how to reach a COP off 0.99.I have about 0.3
Look`s like i am a little frustrated,
Thank you

[Tom C]

Forelle,

Are you still using scalar north? if so that is why it shifts, also if your freewheel time is low, it requires more energy, and scalar north switches faster and pulls less current, so there is not as much energy transfered to rotation. these are electromechanical devices so all mechanical parameters (torque, consevation of inertia, etc) must all be taken into account.

also your resistance for the trigger will be different with different sized wire, and number of magnets. your charging current will vary depending upon your battery, I cannot tell you what is best for YOUR machine. I do not have experience with coils other than John's designed ones on rotored machines.

please read Ed Leedskalnins book on magnetic currents.

wire size really does make a difference, 22 for the trigger will require a different base resistance than 23.

Tom C

[forelle]

Big wire low resistance flow through the wire requires a different base resistance to bring the amp draw up.

For instance if you are running a base resistance of 680 ohms you may have to go down to 450 ohms.

Or is it the other way around on the wheel kits? I can't think which way it is.

Correct me on that Tom C. If I am wrong but I thought JB said that base resistance may vary depending on the build.

Do you understand forelle? I use 14awg wire and I use 2000 ohms I think it is, but mind does not trigger with a magnet.

Better let the kit company tell you forelle which way to go to get the amp draw up to 1.

I know it works with 18 awg no problem.

Mikey

Hi Mikey
you understand me wrong, the reason why i have changed the coil was because i want down with the Amp and that i have reached.I have 470 ohm baseresistance and ca.20 ohm preresistor,but i am not finished with tuning.
To Tom C:
You said the coil should saturate to a certain point,When i hook up the oscilloscope then i adjust the pulses so that i have one puls per magnet,thats the fastest speed and lowest ampdraw,but when the wheel stops and i want to start it again then i have to lower the resistance on the pot until it speeds up to the final speed and then i can turn it up till it beginns to switch twice per magnet then i turn it a little down that i have one pulse per magnet.By JB you see he has the fixed 12 ohm resistor and the wheel speeds up without changing the resistance,if i adjust it that it speeds up without changing the resistance by every start i need 700ma ampdraw and when i adjust it every time with a new start i have in the end with the same speed 600ma ampdraw.Can you tell me what is better,charging is at 700ma faster than with 600ma thus the speed is the same.
Thanks

[forelle]

Hi all
Yesterday i have made a new coil for my bicyclewheel with AWG 19/22 because i had no 20/23 at the moment and the Ampdraw goes down from 1 Amp at 260 rpm with the 18AWG coil to 0.6 Amp 230rpm.The other things i have to change.
Thanks Tom,i dont know why i thought it doesnt make much difference when i had a bigger coil.So guys,dont waste your time,build it exactly like JB`s .

[forelle]

Forelle,

you said everything is same as Johns its not....

1- get rid of the superpoles and go to regular north magnets.
2- if your cap dump charges slower there is something wrong with it, SCR cap dumps are not as effective as comparator style ones. there are losses in the zener/ led and the SCR. you can see the difference simply because the dump is less effective than pure radiant, it should be the other way around.
3- you need to do a 20/23 coil 8x18 is a huge coil, you are barely pumping the coil at 1 amp. it is all about scale, the coil needs to be saturated but just barely.

Build a machine EXACTLY (component wise) as John's machine and test from there. please cycle your new batteries on a standard charger and get the capacity logged using your CBA , you need a baseline to test from.

Tom C

Thanks Tom i will change these things.

[why_me]

The coil size would be the same, the magnets are just wider than JB's. I am willing to try. What would have to be done to the circuit you guys sell to accommodate the increase in power draw, etc.? Run a parallel circuit,...two 8 circuits configured in parallel to handle the load and using one coil. That would include 16 matched transistors and other components. Of course the capacitance between circuits would have to be a high Q for better overall performance. Then a Faraday type enclosure made of brass screen or stainless steel would allow for reducing stray readings from other nearby influences. Hmmm...

[ErikN]

Hello Tom, I do not have DVD 33, please clarify #3:3- you need to do a 20/23 coil 8x18 is a huge coil. If this is the type I need for the 4 foot wheel, it would help me with my build.

What size wire should be used, how long a wire and how large a coil form, plus how big a core for the welding rods. My magnets are 6x4x1 inch.

It would be nice to order the one(s) I need from TeslaGenX.

Thin Q very much.

Hello why_me,

The coil size is more related to the magnet size than the size of the wheel. A 20/23 coil will work fine on a 4 foot wheel with the 1 7/8x7/8 ceramic magnets, but not a 6x4x1. The SG8 board you have is pre-tuned for a 20/23 coil. To run anything larger like a 18/21 coil you need a lower resistance on the base (using standard magnets) because the generator effect of the motor creates less voltage.

On John Bedini's ferris wheel he used 6x2x1 (about 95% sure, need to watch DVDs 21-23 to be sure) ceramic magnets with a neo on the back side. His coils and core were huge, the core was about 3" in diameter and the big coil weighed 200+ pounds. A 6x4x1 magnet will need something even larger. A coil this size will NOT work with the SG circuit.

Unfortunately, I do not have enough knowledge of these systems to calculate the size coil you need. I could give it a good guess, but if it didn't work, it would be a lot of money out of your pocket and you would not be happy; neither would we.

As far as I know there has only been one decent attempt at getting coils the same size as the JB's ferris wheel coils to work, and the system did not perform to the builder's expectations. His wheel diameter was 6'.

Perhaps with your Navy electronics experience you are better suited for this task then myself?

Our distributor is not really set up to handle coils this large, but if you let us know the coil specs (core size & coil width and height and # & gauge of strands etc) we will contact them and see if something can be arranged.

Regards,
Erik

[why_me]

Hello Tom, I do not have DVD 33, please clarify #3:3- you need to do a 20/23 coil 8x18 is a huge coil. If this is the type I need for the 4 foot wheel, it would help me with my build.

What size wire should be used, how long a wire and how large a coil form, plus how big a core for the welding rods. My magnets are 6x4x1 inch.

It would be nice to order the one(s) I need from TeslaGenX.

Thin Q very much.