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Thread: Branch's SSG Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    Branch's SSG Build

    Solavei
    Hi everyone! I was hoping to get some suggestions for improvements I can make to my current build. I shot some video going through some of the things I think are wrong...if anyone sees anything please let me know. Thanks for your help!


  2. #2
    Senior Member John_Koorn's Avatar
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    Branch, the Renaissance charger is fine to recharge the primary.

    Looks like your coil to magnet gap is too big. What you want to do is get a small flat blade screwdriver and slowly bring the tip close to the magnets. You will get to a distance where the the tip of the screwdriver gets sucked into the magnet, around about 1/4" for those magnets. You may need to do it a few times to get it right. Then set the gap to the distance where the screwdriver gets sucked into the magnet.

    Once you have that you run the machine and take an RPM measurement. To fine tune you can adjust up and down a little and see if the RPM increases. You want the highest RPM. this will take a few hours to get right.

    Do this first and then do a couple of load tests before you change anything else. One step at a time

    John K.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    First off...thanks for your responses.

    I will try that screwdriver trick this evening. I have some digital calipers..maybe I can use those to help judge the distance.

    For the RPM's...I thought I needed to get the highest RPM's for the lowest amp draw. That's how I tuned it. It did take a couple of really careful hours to accomplish.

    The highest RPM's I got were around 100 ohms. As I increased resistance they started to fall. There was a spot around 360 ohms where they went back up. I notated that as the first sweet spot.

    I kept increasing the resistance after that...found another non-linear spot between 630 and 685 ohms. This is where I decided to do my load testing.

    Does this sound like the right way to tune? I may upload a video of me going through the process, as well as the spacing exercise.

    I have been tracking discharge curves with the CBA III...but I am having to do 2 charge runs to get the battery fully charged. Does a battery need to be fully conditioned with radiant energy before you start getting 1 to 1 charging?

    Quote Originally Posted by John_Koorn View Post
    Branch, the Renaissance charger is fine to recharge the primary.

    Looks like your coil to magnet gap is too big. What you want to do is get a small flat blade screwdriver and slowly bring the tip close to the magnets. You will get to a distance where the the tip of the screwdriver gets sucked into the magnet, around about 1/4" for those magnets. You may need to do it a few times to get it right. Then set the gap to the distance where the screwdriver gets sucked into the magnet.

    Once you have that you run the machine and take an RPM measurement. To fine tune you can adjust up and down a little and see if the RPM increases. You want the highest RPM. this will take a few hours to get right.

    Do this first and then do a couple of load tests before you change anything else. One step at a time

    John K.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    1- your freewheel time is too low, you do not adjust it like a normal bike wheel, that wheel should be above 8 minutes easily.
    2- what length is your coil wire in total? it is not about the spool it is about length 150 FT before you litz it.
    3- that charge battery positive solder looks horrible get rid of alligator clips and use female spade connectors for those batteries
    4- 12 gauge wire minimum for batt cables looks like that is what you have
    5- dont worry about the screws, you can change to brass if you want to

    a tuned SG will be 1 to 1 with a bit left over. go ahead and use john k's explaination of coil gap it works perfectly that way.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  5. #5
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    Hey Tom-

    1. Yeah I'm not sure why I can't get a longer time. I did loosen up the locknuts and moved them back so the wheel was very loose and you can hear the clicking of the bearings inside. If I look at the wheel from the side as it's running however it seems like it's bent....but that might be because of the loose locknuts. Anything else I can try?

    2. 200'. I did not litz the wires. So I need to fix that....

    3. Yeah I still really suck at soldering. Getting better....haha. I will make another attempt at it and buy some female spade connectors.

    4. The red and black wires I'm using are 18 guage. The lighter colored speaker wire is thicker though. Do ALL wires need to be 12 guage or just the wire that connects the two batteries?

    5. Right on, thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom C View Post
    1- your freewheel time is too low, you do not adjust it like a normal bike wheel, that wheel should be above 8 minutes easily.
    2- what length is your coil wire in total? it is not about the spool it is about length 150 FT before you litz it.
    3- that charge battery positive solder looks horrible get rid of alligator clips and use female spade connectors for those batteries
    4- 12 gauge wire minimum for batt cables looks like that is what you have
    5- dont worry about the screws, you can change to brass if you want to

    a tuned SG will be 1 to 1 with a bit left over. go ahead and use john k's explaination of coil gap it works perfectly that way.

    Tom C

  6. #6
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Branch Gordon View Post
    Hey Tom-

    1. Yeah I'm not sure why I can't get a longer time. I did loosen up the locknuts and moved them back so the wheel was very loose and you can hear the clicking of the bearings inside. If I look at the wheel from the side as it's running however it seems like it's bent....but that might be because of the loose locknuts. Anything else I can try?

    2. 200'. I did not litz the wires. So I need to fix that....

    3. Yeah I still really suck at soldering. Getting better....haha. I will make another attempt at it and buy some female spade connectors.

    4. The red and black wires I'm using are 18 guage. The lighter colored speaker wire is thicker though. Do ALL wires need to be 12 guage or just the wire that connects the two batteries?

    5. Right on, thanks!
    speaker wire is not good for battery wire in my opinion, get some 12 gauge wire from napa. balance the wheel, that will help. my bike wheel rotates over 8 minutes, it was not until I got my rotation up that I saw good results, but it differs for everyone. mostly if you are using a lot of energy to get and maintain rotation you may be using too much to have good charging.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  7. #7
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    Hi Guys,

    Hope this can help.

    Tom's being pretty generous with 8 minutes. I never stopped mucking about with both my SSG wheels until they were both at 11.5 minutes. You cleaned everything out & used Tri-Flow, right? I ran a topic on balancing some time ago here... makes a huge difference.

    http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...spin-time.html

    All The Best.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrie Castle View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Hope this can help.

    Tom's being pretty generous with 8 minutes. I never stopped mucking about with both my SSG wheels until they were both at 11.5 minutes. You cleaned everything out & used Tri-Flow, right? I ran a topic on balancing some time ago here... makes a huge difference.

    http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...spin-time.html

    All The Best.
    most excellent Barrie!!

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  9. #9
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    I did clean it all out...wiped all the grease off. Bought new ceramic ball bearings. Squirted a bunch of tri flow into the cap. I'm finding though that because the locknuts are loosened, most of the excess tri-flow leaks out and drips down the bike wheel.

    I haven't balanced it yet like you are suggesting with adding blobs of glue...but I think I should be getting a longer spin time even without that.

    I bought this wheel off of ebay...I had a guy balance it at a bike shop...he said at the time that there was a dent in it....that might be what the issue is here.

    I may just buy a nicer wheel that isn't used.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrie Castle View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Hope this can help.

    Tom's being pretty generous with 8 minutes. I never stopped mucking about with both my SSG wheels until they were both at 11.5 minutes. You cleaned everything out & used Tri-Flow, right? I ran a topic on balancing some time ago here... makes a huge difference.

    http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...spin-time.html

    All The Best.

  10. #10
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    Solavei
    I think you've got it now. Rip the bearings out again & have a really hard look at the bearing tracks in good light. I tried second hand bike wheels to start with as I had them thrown at me for no money down. Even if they were only a little bit worn, it made a huge difference to spin times. Buying a new wheel from a local bike shop will save you a lot of money in the long run. Be careful to check for steel joiners on the outer rim where the join is though... it's worth a few extra bucks to just buy it fully cast. The thing you get with buying local is all the extra support. I upgraded to a much longer solid axle for ten bucks on my second SSG, which made it so much easier to mount. If you're into more expensive wheels with sealed bearings, those guys in the workshop have all the right bearing pullers & special spanners, etc for you to do a really good job. Unfortunately, they're making wheels now so that we can't just use any old tools to do the job right.

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