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the several statements made by Nathren and Nathren's son Nathren, is that all earlier CONVERTED car engines were readjusted for timing to A T D C to about negative 34 degrees , as that approximate point allowed the engines to run smoother and provided water vapor pressure as a secondary force on piston, as generated at the lower end of piston travel. On the 18HP mower engine , the 13 turns wire over steel core section WITH the cable, as electromagnet provided magnetic field on the high volts cable and caused the spark time to be extended in milliseconds. He said to add more or less turns , so as to get the best setting for running engine. My own improvement design over his S1R9A9M9 coils assembly was to make the adjustment variable by varying amount of core under #14 wire + cable, as a pull handle. (Like turning loosened distributor on car engine) Hydrogen gas used in standard engine requires way late timing . I also increased the number of turns as per ratio change required, when changing from original 10 A current to 6 A current, to maintain the same magnetic field level. . Car engines are 4 cycle as well as the Briggs engine, but it has waste spark cycle that does no harm to a running engine.
Each engine will run slightly different and a blanket statement cannot be made, as they all will require adjustment in different timing points. Nathren had made statement as to the available special degrees flywheel keys as used for different timing on Briggs engines. They all , however, are only for the small Briggs animal racing engine flywheels. I don't think he knew that. The Georgia technicians did not modify Briggs factory timing, other than adding magnetic field. I just assumed they were too lazy to machine a curved aluminum , slotted, mounting plate for Magnetron, as for being adjustable timing thereafter with screws and nuts repositioning.
I am presently testing my latest S1R coils as 10kv cable included, rather than bare wire or insulated hook up wire, or 30Kv cable, so as for getting a constant recurring 100v leakage transfer without shorting. The wooden flywheel arrangement with Briggs ignition works well with series inductor coil and diodes. Later, I will blend in DC current to spark plug with water solution and protective diodes section. The water solution presents ohms resistance and would raise up the input voltage required, as also tiny electrodes.
One of the original web forum paragraphs by Nathren , said in broken words, that there were other parts than the S1R coils in the plastic tub on side of mower engine!!!!!!! This was when he and son stopped saying anything more their set up as too much attention was received, and non-knowledgeable people had gotten hurt trying to duplicate his engine set up.
When the man, "Smack ", showed up, at his property after 1000 miles driving, the episode was on video tape and we could see what was going on. The wiring on failed running 18HP was not done the same as during the 2 successful You tube videos of 2008.
The Nathren back porch engine test was wrong also, as he was attempting to run engine with S1R coil as in induction type mode,- not with current output going direct to spark plug as needed. In one of the published answers to people's questions, way back in time, he said the output 12v current wire WAS CONNECTED to spark plug . (not repeated again)
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