Building a window motor

[min2oly]

This might be a good thread to ask this:

I wanna try this: run a rotor with SSG circuit, and store the output of the SSG into a capacitor and when that capacitor is for example 20 volts I wanna dump it completely into a coil that will be also in the same rotor as the SSG.

A was thinking to use a modified bedini-cole circuit for this (dump the cap in the coil when the cap is 20v).

How can I make the bedini-cole circuit trigger only when the cap > 20v ??? a 20v zenner before the pin 1 of the hall sensor should do that???

Sorry for asking this but I have no electronics background, the little I know is what I have learned in the free energy community.
tnx

best

Alvaro

What if you trigger the bedini cole once per revolution instead? put a single magnet for a hall switch or reed that would trigger the bedini cole. If you don't think your getting enough voltage with the single revolution you could always do a cap dump of say 20ish volts to a second cap and when that trigger magnet comes around it would fire using that second cap as the power source...

There was some one here Bob, Aln... I can't remember now... who triggered the cap dump though a coil that was on the rotor. the cool thing is that coil can also act as a generator toward the source cap until you fire it.

Can I ask what your thoughts are on what you hope to accomplish?
Thanks - Patrick A.

[AlvaroHN]

This might be a good thread to ask this:

I wanna try this: run a rotor with SSG circuit, and store the output of the SSG into a capacitor and when that capacitor is for example 20 volts I wanna dump it completely into a coil that will be also in the same rotor as the SSG.

A was thinking to use a modified bedini-cole circuit for this (dump the cap in the coil when the cap is 20v).

How can I make the bedini-cole circuit trigger only when the cap > 20v ??? a 20v zenner before the pin 1 of the hall sensor should do that???

Sorry for asking this but I have no electronics background, the little I know is what I have learned in the free energy community.
tnx

best

Alvaro

[Ed_Morbus]

From Ebay A3144

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-A3144-...item3cd4dc8ee7

[AlvaroHN]

http://www.amazon.com/Effect-Magneti...20+hall+sensor
are these good to use for a window motor.

I recently bought this http://www.ebay.com/itm/151144779484...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 2030 hall sensors, they can work up to 24 volts input.

[Bradley Malone]

http://www.amazon.com/Effect-Magneti...20+hall+sensor
are these good to use for a window motor.

[Bradley Malone]

As always tom your a huge help. will be getting the final stuff together to start working on this thing. the neo i have is quite strong n45 (i think) 1 inch by 1 inch so it seems to go along with your recomendations i need to have the coil about 1 inch on the outside. So am i correct in the understanding that stranger magnets take more to run but you get about the same ratio of out to in...as you said it would have to be pushed away so more energy needed but also because the extra gauss a generator coil would output more...so everyone is looking for the sweet spot

[Tom C]

the closer a magnet is to a coil, the more of it's gauss "cuts" across the coils surface area and the closer it is the stronger the area of gauss is that interacts the coil. for a DC motor it is usually a brushed commutator that switches the windings polarity first attracting then repelling to allow the rotor to spin inside the permanent magnet field. the window motor is powered by a pulse, first one way, then the other, the switching of the circuit acts as a brush commutator in the rotor. its a pulse switched DC motor. the dwell (on time) and timing determine the speed and torque of a window motor.

here are my thoughts, this is not gospel truth just what I have read and observed..

a window motor runs best under load at 2/3 of its unloaded speed. this can be modified somewhat by what kind of magnet and core you use. a torque window motor needs an iron or steel core, a speed window motor uses an aluminum core.

the more powerful the magnet the more current it will draw to run, it needs to push that rotor away and the bigger the magnet the more force you will need to get it past. the recovery is also better with a more powerful magnet. (hence my experiment with the big neo mags on the other thread)

your best way to start is with 20 or so gauge wire, you can run more than 1 strand in parallel to drop the resistance of the coil. it really depends upon so many factors. the more turns you have the higher the field of the coil, so look for a coil between 1 and 3 ohms. if you settle on a 1 ohm strand you can either do a longer winding or parallel 2 or 3 with higher turns to bring the resistance down. its a balance of wire size, turns and length.

the full bipolar circuit is the way to go for driving, with a Hall sensor and timing disc.

take a screwdriver and slowly move it into the magnet. when you feel the screwdriver begin to interact with the magnet, that is where you want the back edge of your coil wire bundle.




Tom C

[Bradley Malone]

I am setting up for a build...don't have as much handy as I would like but i think i can make something happen. I have 2 (1x1 with1/4 inch hole) cylinder neos...the idea i am shooting for is a high speed low draw motor to run low drag generator tests with. I want to have the two neos (which are diametrically magnetized so 2 pole motor) attached to a common shaft one magnet being the rotor for the Window motor one for a generator (probably opposite a flywheel). I have 24 and 26 wire on hand so i may need to use an external trigger instead of two different sized wires, think mine are to closely sized to work correctly that way. I do have a few old motors laying around that I could pull larger wire from though but nothing to measure the gauge. So does anyone have tips for my setup...anything that is not the normal knowledge on window motors because i have done a good bit of research. Just trying to bypass some hurdles people have already jumped without having to rewind hundreds of coils radiant energy has put a vacuum on my wallet!

[Bradley Malone]

is there something against having the coils close to the rotor in a window motor. Most other generators or motors the gaps between the coil and stator are a large factor in what you get out but i have seen window motors with inches between the magnets and the coils....why?

[grounded]

and the windings... i thought the ' bi ' in the word bifilar, meant 2, so assumed it was 2 wires twisted.

my understanding of electronics is pretty limited.

[grounded]

confusing design

[grounded]

im looking to build one of these too, but lack of information on the net is making it difficult to understand

[Volty]

Hi Jeffrey, 2.5 Year Update? Let's see what you made please?
Thanks

[Jeffrey Joseph]

For everyone,Thanks for the interest and posts of your work. hex stock being milled for mag placement. I would like to use three coils six mags and hall effect to trigger. Next hurricane when the lights go out would like to keep the frig on and have a light on.
I reviewed DAV/HAV videos thank you for sharing. I like the UFO motor. what would it be like one window motor and one window generator or do you have to have the brushes for the effect?
I'll get some pics and post as the build goes on. thanks again for all the help Jeff

[Anonimus]

Dude, let me know how the rotor magnets, if we leave all negative pointing to the coils, or interspersed n, p, n, p, n, p.
debanado also know whether the coil is bifilar or just with a single copper wire.