Solid State Bedini Energizer Replictaion

[why_me]

The battery is a crystal type. I use alum, sodium carbonate, sodium silicate and activated charcoal. I put the mix in either a copper pipe with magnesium rod or plastic container with magnesium rod with multiple copper wires coming from the mix. I add water to activate the chemistry. A water battery. hehe. Distilled water. I found that more copper wires causes more current flow. You can also solder many copper wires to the copper pipe, but....you need to presolder them to the pipe before filling. That is another thread.

[why_me]

I must have missed something about the led build. I did not see where any of the leds were used in a parallel configuration. This would allow for more lights to be lit without increasing the voltage drop, just a little more current. I have been experimenting with 48 leds using 4 volts or more from a hand built water rechargeable battery. And they light up very brightly without loading down the battery.

[axxelxavier]

Hi Teodor
I made some lighting like you did it. I had the aluminum and the acrylic plus the heat-sink epoxy the good stuff here it is
I have 48 bulbs like yours at 1 watt each. I am making it a universal light for everyday AND when the power goes out, I will be showing it off soon.

Mikey, this is a huge led lamp! If you will use 4 led configuration x 11 strands, probably the current draw will be 250 miliamps x 11 = 2,75 amp/hour
Take care of short circuits, the led pin's should be straighten, so they wouldn't touch the aluminum frame.

I have 1" stand off's that hold the lens over the led's. You can not see them.

Actually, I can see them, and the idea of using stand off's it's a brilliant one, I was thinking myself for a kind of lamp for my kids's room, with stand off's.

I work all day in my refrigerator shop and at play all night building. I am still getting 7 hours of great sleep so everyday I work like this. I think some people can not function on 7 hours sleep?

I know how it is, I usually get 6 hours sleep, and early in the morning back to work. Thank Lord for coffee's.

Thanks -A - Million for talking me into it. Mikey

You are welcome. I like helping people, as I was also helped...
Anyway, if everybody will share the good findings, our life in this world would be surely if not better, at least more interesting.

[axxelxavier]

@Joster, actually, I don't think the battery should be completely dried. I was converted myself a similar battery to alum, which was not dried at all, and it was charged at SSG at 15,5 volts and discharged at C4 (1,7 amps/hour), just to see how good is it. The discharge last only 20 minutes, to 12,00 volts. This cycle was repeated 4 times, and the same results, 20 minutes only. I was going to prepare it for disposal, but i was thinking to try just one more time, and this time I left the battery on load at C24 discharge rate - I just let it with a led lamp connected, until death (0 volts).
But... guess what? the battery simply refuse to die - the led's are still on, not so bright, of course, but from yesterday, at 12,45 volts /220 miliamps current draw, until now, there are more than 30 hours of discharge, and the voltage reading shows 10,55 volts, but only 50 miliamps current draw. Very interesting... Next time, however, I will do discharging with a resistor, maybe the load will be more constant. Anyway, from 10 minutes lasting battery to this 30 hours, it's simple unbelievable.
Try it at lower discharge rate, I'm very curious if this behavior it's normal for a hybrid alum bat (non-washed acid battery + alum steroids).
Here is a quick graphical discharge chart.

voltage in the left area, time stamp under the image

Best regards,
Teodor

[Joster]

Thanks!


still learning.....since then I flooded another 7.2 amp hour gell cell and pulse charged it right up to 14.5 volts in minutes but the load test failed right away at 1 amp...I'm thinking i need to really dry out the gell cells before I put the alum in...I'm just alittle unclear as to how this is done? Do I just use a regular charger with the caps off the battery? How do I know when the cells are dry....just by visual inspection? I'm thinking of just converting this recondition RV battery (FLA) today instead....

also another question...in John's video his alum solution is opaque white but when I get mine mixed to the "slippery feel" it's still clear.

cheers

Joe

[ErikN]

Hi John B.

Just got your solar tracker 12 vdc @ 10 amps. today in the mail.

? for you before I plug it in.

It Shows in your videos that it has a RE SET switch on the front of the unit and a ON & OFF switch in the back.

The unit that you sent me did NOT have them on the unit.

The owners manual says MAKE SURE ALL SWITCHES ARE OFF BEFORE YOU PULG IT IN.


1 This unit should have the switches on it?

2 Will it work with out it ?

3 Are the holes in the bottom for are flow for the fan on top ?

3 pics below

Tried calling you but your phone mailbox is not set up.

John Please call 215-910-1193 and I hope you are well and have Great New Year 2014
E- Mail nt@energybat.com

Thanks Geoffrey

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2924[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2925[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2926[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2927[/ATTACH]

Hi Geoffrey,

The unit you received is the latest Solar Tracker which has some updates from when the manual was printed.

The reset button has been moved internally and automatically resets itself if tripped; there are no switches on the latest model and it should work just fine out of the box. You are correct that the additional holes are for airflow.

Regards,
Erik

[Tom C]

1- no
2- yes
3- yes

your device will work fine hook up the charge battery then the solar panel.

Tom C

[geoffrey sr miller]

Hi John B.

Just got your solar tracker 12 vdc @ 10 amps. today in the mail.

? for you before I plug it in.

It Shows in your videos that it has a RE SET switch on the front of the unit and a ON & OFF switch in the back.

The unit that you sent me did NOT have them on the unit.

The owners manual says MAKE SURE ALL SWITCHES ARE OFF BEFORE YOU PULG IT IN.


1 This unit should have the switches on it?

2 Will it work with out it ?

3 Are the holes in the bottom for are flow for the fan on top ?

3 pics below

Tried calling you but your phone mailbox is not set up.

John Please call 215-910-1193 and I hope you are well and have Great New Year 2014
E- Mail nt@energybat.com

Thanks Geoffrey

[Joster]

Here's the update!

http://youtu.be/bzDvA_KKsPg

[axxelxavier]

@BroMikey,
I'm glad you like it. There are even more ways to do the job, and the lamps to look better. You can buy, for example, some circular AC led spots, and to modify them to work on 12 volts.
But I'm telling you, this stuff it's a little different, it looks more like a neon led lamp, if you now what I mean. The light cover a bigger area, compared with the light from spot led's, which it's focused on a limited area only. You can make even a bigger lamp, with 8 to 16 led's, in a series/parallel configuration, and it will be enough for lighting a medium size room, with the cost of only 1 amp/hour current draw at full power (when needed, of course, because you can always switch your custom lamp to desired power).
Nice finding, about the glue with metal dust, it should be even better for heat dissipation. Just curious, this glue it's not conducing electricity, right?

It would be sad to see your Led fall off in a few days.

Actually, I did tested heat dissipation of 3 led's configuration + resistor 33 ohm 3 watt, driven at almost full current on my aluminium profile, and they are working for a month +.
About the 4 led's configuration, they are working in my dinning room for 2 month +, without any visible heat, and they are turned on around 6 hours a day, in this winter light time. Still, I need 2 more lamps, in order to finish the job.

L.E. The last picture it's with the fifth led on - the night light mode

By the way, I did measure the night light current draw (kitchen + dinning room) - 11 miliamps, and the light it's quite impressive.

Alum batteries take time to come back to life but like any OLD battery it might be a lost cause, HUH?

Yeah, I suppose I have to let them go, it's time to focus on big ones. Maybe I will try to convert a 50 amp battery flooded lead acid battery. The main problem, however, it's to dispose safely the neutralized acid, but I will find soon a way.

I will talk more later the kids are in my ear.

I know how it is. Actually, my older boy saw me when I did this tutorial, and told me: „This led light is for our room, right?”
Best regards,
Teodor

[axxelxavier]

In the end, just a few more pictures:



There are also, other ways to do the job, or to customize even more the led lamp:
- small pieces of aluminium used for transistors, with a led inside, mounted directly on the plexiglas with screw, all wounded in series, or whatever you want;
- you can add a supplementary led, if you need, like I do, some small night light - the array will be even more undevolted, and the current draw it's in miliamps range... and the light it's quite bright, for a night light... but you will need 3 wires, not 2 (with 2 wires you can do it, though, with another resistor).

Anyway, I have to say that this kind of led lamp it's a great find mostly for a small living area, like an apartment or a small house - for bigger houses the wiring can be tricky. For bigger areas, each room can have his own small solar panel, to feed a 10-15 amp/hour battery.

For a medium room, I think 4 lamps it's more than enough, and you can use mostly 2, and turn on the other 2 when needed.
With a medium battery (an old 60 amp/hour), I run lights from dinning room and kitchen for almost a week, I have to check the total current draw, but I think it's around 1 amp/hour with all four lamps on. Only catch it's to use each time the switch - I am running the lights, for example, in the night light mode, until morning, so current draw it's almost invisible (around 20 miliamps).


If there is something to explain more, be my guest.

Best regards, Teodor.

P.S. I'm constantly reading all the posts, but I'm only posting when I have something to say or ask from people more experienced than me.
And this long episodic post is my way to share with everybody what I think it's really interesting.

[axxelxavier]

4. Test the led array with a battery it's always a good idea, before shrinking the thermal tube and mounting on aluminum support. Now we can add a protection resistor - 1 ohm 1/2 wat will be enough (I used 2 x 1ohm resistors in parallel)



5. Here comes the tricky part - adjusting the shapes of wires in aluminium profile - you don't want every led to act like a resort when it's time to use our magic glue.



6. Use just a small grain of poxipol (or whatever glue) on every led place, and pres and hold leds in position for 2 minutes, for glues to set



7. Attach connections for the battery, and you are done.



The piece of plexiglas it's from another project, so forget about the circles insides. You can decide if you want to set your led lamp with screws, or just attach the plexiglas top simply with a few drops of super glue.

[axxelxavier]

Materials needed:
- 1 watt leds
- aluminium profile (any available shape - simple band or U profile, from old PSU etc) - used for lead heat dissipation;
- plexiglass thicker, better, but any thickness will work - for light polarization, anti-blindness shield;
- wires for connecting leds - I use some 20 AWG wires, recovered from old PSU;
- thermal contractible tube - for isolation of the connection;
- resistor - in 4 led array, 0.5-1 ohm it's enough - for protection of the led array<
- small switch - on/off
and so on - no need to list all the usual tools used

About the first picture -ignore the machining of the plexiglas, it's from other project, any simple plexiglass will be fine.

1. Prepare the aluminium bad - make the mounting hole (eventually make the threads with the 4 mm tap); make the switch hole (the switch I used need a 6,5 mm diameter mounting surface); mark the signs for mounting the leds, at 35, 75, 115 and 155 mm;
2. Prepare the plexiglass - sand the top and the bootom with medium thickness abrasive paper, until u are satisfied; eventually make the hole for easy mount on top of the aluminium profile:



3. preparing and making the wiring:
- cut 3 x 4 cm wires (for connecting leds), 1 x 3 cm (short switch wire) remove isolation and solder the heads;
- cut the thermal shrinking tube in 10 mm pieces, and insert them in wires;
- straighten the terminal of the leds;



- solder all the connection



to be continued...

[axxelxavier]

Well let us look at the Alum Battery. John Bedini (our Main man) has shown me in his conversions he just pours the powder out till it gives a slippery feel between your fingers.Mikey

Thank you, Mike. I tried with 5 cups of Alum an 10 cups of distilled water, until I've got that slippery feel.

If you have well used AGM batteries remember they are probably low on power all of the time and are about dried out.

Yeah, I do have some door stops AGM batteries, and I did tried to convert them (somehow) to alum, with not much luck. Actually, the procedure was a success, I just added alum on top of the batteries, but they wasn't quite dried, so it's a hybrid conversion, I suppose. The discharge it's linear, like a an alum battery, but I'm loosing power very quickly, on those old AGM batteries. Only 20 minutes last my converted battery, from 15,2 volt to 9,9 volt, at C4 load (1,7 Amp/hour for a 7,2 amp/hour rated battery (I know it's a kind of brutal test, but I'm not going do spend all my times watching voltages of those old AGM batteries). At C4 discharge, a new 7 Amp/hour battery should stand 2 hours at 50 percent depth of discharge, so my converted battery it's now at 10 percent of capacity, because it last only 20 min. Please correct me, if I am wrong. Any way, I will try to charge it with other SSG, actually my smallest oscillator. We will see.

Yes I want to know how you did your LED's are you kidding? Hey Teodor I have never even known about the resistor but I did see them in lights I took apart now that you mention it. Surging power grid spikes require it but on a battery? Maybe on connect? The power spike occurs?

Actually, the led it's driven with current, so the resistor it's necessary to limit the quantity of current for each configuration.
You can find here and here some good led array calculators.
In my configuration, I use this led (3,4 volts, 350 miliamps):



So I wounded 4 leds in series, that's 4x3.4 = 13,6 volts, normally needed for full brightness. At 12,7 - 12,9 volts, which is the most common standing voltage of a normal battery, clearly, the led array it's undervolted so the light it's almost similar with a 3 led in series array, at full current draw. In that last case, a rezistor is a MUST, and by heating of the resistor we are going to lose power for no reason. In the 4 led formation, the resistor is for protection only, but a 1 ohm or 0,5 ohm will be enough to make sure you are not going to have a bad surprise (imagine your led array connected without protection on a battery supercharged at 15,5 volts...).
So, how do I did it?
This it's my first try:



I just made 4 holes with 4 mm depth in a 8 mm thick plexiglass, which was sanded with medium abrasive paper, so the light of the leds will not blind you.
In the holes will enter only the led bulb, the clear part of the led (not the entire led), I've soldered all the wires from leds, continued at the + terminal with a 0,5 ohm 5 watt rezistor (a smaller wattage will be fine, because only 250 miliamps will flow through resistor).
Of course, after 30 minutes, the leds was very hot, and was starting to flicker. I've discovered that a heat dissipation it's a must here, so, I attached the leds on a aluminium radiator (from an old power supply) with poxipol, or anything that resist to heat. This idea it's not mine, It's from internet taken, and it's brilliant.

Ok, based on what I've learned from first led lamp, here's the second, and improved lamp - the leds are mounted in line, with a bigger distance between them, on a aluminium profile 190 mm x 19 mm (enough thermal dissipation for heavy use), with a side switch, and with the top covered with a 3-4 mm sanded Plexiglas, mounted with superglue or screws

Details in next post.

[Joster]

Amazing....going to the store right now for some alum....seriously!

also added my cap pulser to my set up last night ill do a vid soon...want to have a switch so I can do either radiant or pulse at the flick of a switch....talk soon

you da man!