Tesla Switch

[fathershand]

Very good observation! I am no expert, so take what I say with a grain of salt. After building my first SSG, I observed that the results that I got weren't satisfactory to me. So, I'm studying further. The fault is not in Mr. Bedini's design, it is in my implementation and lack of understanding.

I think that the degenerate semiconductor is there to "slow down" the time it takes for the free electrons to cover the surface of the "energizer". I also think that JB's SSG is intended to do this in the SSG. I haven't figured that out yet, but here is one more thought. Free electrons in Bearden's circuit, or any circuit, flow at the speed of light. If these electrons are fed into a coil of copper wire, they will reach the end of the wire at the rate of 1 foot per nano-second. So, if a coil is 800 feet long, it will take 8 nano-seconds to reach the end. Maybe this is enough for the "relaxation" time in Bearden's circuit. Another thing to study is how to "dope" the coil. Bearden also said we could use a doped capacitor.

Tell me your thoughts. I intend to try again on the SSG / Tesla switch.

Mr. Bedini, if you see this, please comment.

Thanks
Tony

[Aram]

Right now my definition of "working" is that the switches operate, and the current flows back and forth, the lightbulb lights up, and it doesn't let the magic smoke out. . . . Again I'm at this point using a simplified design which will always tend to charge two batteries and run down two. . . I'm just learning.

Tom Bearden was who got me started on this journey, I read some of his stuff when I was in high school. . . I had my science teachers all scratching their heads. I kinda had to leave it alone when I was in College but I ran into Mr. Bedini's designs in 2010 I think, and since then I've been having lots of fun building crazy stuff. I owe Tom Bearden and Mr. Bedini a big debt of gratitude, and I think the article you linked is spot on. I wish I knew more about doping copper and creating that degenerate semiconductor. Bearden has the gift of explaining it so it makes sense, and seems easy, at least to me.

[fathershand]

Aram, I think that one of the "signs" of a working Tesla switch is that the battery doesn't run down or takes a very long time to run down. Please read this article and see if you agree. It is by Tom Bearden, and tells the "secret to free energy".

The Tom Bearden Website

Tony

[Aram]

Wanted to say thanks to John K for posting those diagrams in here. I'm making progress on my TS project. I've had it running for about 4 hours before I shut it down to make additional modifications/improvements. I'm building a simplified design that only requires two switches, based on a design posted on a thread on the energetic forums, Mathew Jones is the fella who posted that, and he's been a big help. I have also proven my idea to put a coil on both sides and pull power from both works, you simply need to make the back side draw as much power as possible, huge inductive load, almost dead short. I drew 700 mA, at 60 V off the back side for the duration of my run, front load was much smaller.

Regarding the question from fathershand, I'd consider mine to be a successfull replication of TS, although my batteries are running down, it's expected with the design I'm using. The big benefit is I actually beginning to understand what those scalar wave battery chargers are doing now, that I've built this, and have been playing with it.

[fathershand]

Here is John Bedini's version of the circuit using opto-couplers:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]532[/ATTACH]
John K.

John, have you been able to replicate this? Or can you give a link to a successful replication.
Thanks
Tony

[Aram]

The current isn't being "converted" into light. It's flowing through the filaments and creating heat and light as it flows through. Think about it like this, a river doesn't USE water if you put a paddlewheel in it to run your equipment. It simply moves the wheel as the water moves. The whole concept of "using" electricity is false. Generators do not "create" electricity. They simply separate the charges, and running a normal load, UN-separates the charges. In the case of a tesla switch, it allows the current to flow without killing the di-pole (a battery is a di-pole, and the chemical action separates the charges). Bearden has a video on it, the first of the "Energy from the Vacuum" series I think where he explains it brilliantly.

In much of what I've heard reported from people like me who are trying to duplicate these devices, the batteries do eventually run down (after perhaps 4 - 8 x useful work performed, which is still pretty amazing). This is because you do lose some voltage in the switching and/or the receiving battery is not able to accept/store 100% of the current it's recieving, and because we haven't figured out how to tap the vaccuum properly to replace those losses.

[acedragoni]

[QUOTE=Aram;540]http://www.free-energy.hu/pajert62/T...ch_2.PGFED.pdf

On the beginning of this document it is stated:

You will notice that the 1-amp current flowing out of the bulb is exactly the same as the 1-amp current flowing into
the bulb. Exactly the same amount of current comes out of the bulb as the current which flows into the bulb. So,
how much current is “used up” in doing the work of lighting the bulb? Answer: None. Energy is never destroyed,
the most that can happen to it is that it gets converted from one form to another.

Isn't energy been converted into light in the case of the bulb getting lighted up when current flows into it? So there should be current being converted into light and that's why the battery runs down after a time.

[John_Koorn]

Here is John Bedini's version of the circuit using opto-couplers:

John K.

[John_Koorn]

The "Bill and Ray" Scalar Charger

This is the "Bill and Ray" scalar battery charger that works on the same concept of the Tesla Switch, for discussion.



John K.

[Aram]

http://www.free-energy.hu/pajert62/T...ch_2.PGFED.pdf

Is one of the better documents (IMO) about it, helps to understand the concept. There is a lot of results from a google search. I have read the page from the link below, OMG the music.

I've recently ran into some good threads on the energeticforums. . . What I really need on this is TIME, since my wife died I've had very little free time (5 year old, + job + dishes + laundry + feeding = no free time). I'm going to continue to work on this regardless of anything. Mainly I need to learn, and that comes by actually doing. I'll post up anything I actually get working.

[Robert Darrah]

Hi,

You might want to check this out on the tesla switch from John's site THE TESLA SWITCH

Robert

[lebombo]

Hi Aram,
Can you be so kind and post the drawing of the tesla switch. I also read a lot on the tesla switch and want to start experement on the switch.
Thanks

[Aram]

I've been working and studying on building a *working* tesla switch. I've read through and studied everything I could find on it. I have a PDF file with diagrams of some suggested designs, including one supposed to be of the one Mr. Bedini built that actually worked and maintained the battery charge while running a load.

I've tried a couple tests, like manually hooking up the batteries in the right configuration and running a load, and it seems to do what it's intended to. BUT with that, the switching is very slow, like the 2-3 minutes it take me to rewire it. So obviously I can't put the caps on teh front because that blocks DC current flow (at least as I've seen them configured in diagrams).

I played around with using an arduino robotic controller to turn things on and off, which works pretty well. I did a test where I just switched a regular light on/off using it, by going through a opto-isolater, and then switching a small transistor, and then using that to switch a larger one. The big transistor was rated at 25-30 amps I think. So then I tried using a car halogen bulb that pulled like 8 amps., and the big transistor started getting too hot, too fast. So obviously I'm not switching it on completely, or maybe I just don't "get: something else. I think I used a 10 w, 38 ohm resistor to feed it. I did a spreadsheet and calculated the "magnification" the transistor provided, plugged in the amps I figured I needed, and then determined the resistance to use, and then ran a range for the battery voltage changing to min and max values to try to make sure the outliers wouldn't fry the transistor.

I wanted to ask Mr. Bedini about the Tesla switch at the conference, but didn't want to be a bother, since it was pretty busy time. I spend hours going over the diagram of the one he did. I think I kinda get what he was doing, it seemed like the switching circuit would feed some power back into the batteries because of the power provided to switch the transistors, which that power would then be taken from the output power, which is only the current passing from one battery to the other anyway, so that would have allowed it to maintain voltage. Not that my opinion means anything, but it seemed extremely clever. But the diagram I had didn't have any specs on the components used, and I know that one was designed for not lead-acid batteries.

I had kind of an inspiration a while back while looking at the circuit, and that is on the BACK side, the configuration is very similar to the battery chargers, in that there is a switch, and immediately after that is the rectifier diods, that feed to the Positive poles on the two batteries on each side. So the thought was, why not put a coil there, basically just like on the SS SSG's I've built, the current flows on the back side, just like the front. That was one of the tests I did when the batteries where manually setup, I just put a current meter on teh back end, and basically however much you drew on the front would be how much flowed in the back. So if you have a coil, and then shut it off really fast on one side, it's going to pulse through the diods the positive poles of both batteries when that mag field collapses. So for the 4 battery configuration, you'd need 2 coils, one or the other would pulse when you switched the configuration. I don't know if I stumbled upon anything good here or not, but it just seemed to make a lot of sense in my head. If it's a breakthrough for anybody, I want to share my ideas with all of you who have openly shared your ideas with me.

But I kinda need some help on actually implementing it. I'm pretty sure my arduino setup will be able to do the switching, but I could use some suggestions for transistors, and resistors, size of the capacitors in front. My thought here is to make a system capable of powering a 250 watt inverter, which at 12 volts is about 20 amps. If I went to a 6 battery system, I could drop the amps to 10, which might make it a little easier to do, but adds switching and wiring complexity.

I just really think it's going to be important some time in the near future to be able to run a few things around the house (like a fridge, and a water pump) for a while. I can't afford to replace everything electrical in my house, and spend 30k on solar panels, and neither can my family and friends. But we might be able to afford a few batteries and some wire and parts to make a Tesla Switch. I love the SSG chargers, and I've had really good success with them. But there is all the battery switching, and messing around with watching voltage, water, rest periods, etc.. I think about it this way, if my grandma needed help, what could I give her that she could manage herself? Tesla switch is the only thing I know that might get close, and provide a sustained power output. Especially with the arduino, it can monitor voltage levels, and either speed up, slow down, or shut off the system depending on the output voltage, etc..

I don't know if the Tesla switch is a forbidden topic, or something. It seems to me like it would be really really awesome, and I'm not afraid of the MIB's. Msg me in private if you want.

Thanks in advance.
--
Aram

P.S. OK, I am a little afraid of the MIB's but I'm more worried about the control the system has over people who rely on the power company for almost EVERTHING.