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Bedini SG - The Complete Advanced Handbook
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Originally posted by min2oly View Post2n2222 - Nice!
Try running it on your 5v and charge the 12 volts, maybe with a simple cap dump via larger transistor or just straight to the 12V...
KR - Patrick
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Originally posted by AlvaroHN View PostHi,
I got back into my little ssg motor that I posted in this thread 2~3 years ago.
At that time I had it with a bifilar coil for the motor, 1 trigger and 1 power winding. Now I made a larger coil, with 8 strands of wire, 1 trigger, 7 power.
The circuit is the same as the advanced book, but with small transistors, 2n2222. All matched up and everything.
It runs much faster!, with the old coil it ran 3000++ RPM at 12 volts. and everthing got hot, the coil and transistors.
Now with this coil I have not tryed to run it on 12v... yet.
with 5v input from a phone charger, it runs at 3600++ RPM. o.O
in the past I wondered why mine droped a lot of RPM with the gen coils in place (not connected, just drag from the iron cores). And the SSG from the advanced book didn't drop any RPM with the gen coil. Now I see that I had 1 power winding, and 6 gen coils... the SSG from the book had 7 power windings and 1 gen coil... totally different story.
I have to start new tests now, I have to get other batteries because the lifepo4 that I had at the time are not in the best shape. And I want to try with normal batts, I might get some new 6v 4ah batteries. And see what happens on 6V. It might get up to 4000 RPM.
I don't want to run it on 12V because I am afraid that those magnets escape from the rotor or something. I have to make a better frame...
I might put all 6 gen coils back in, out of phase each with independent diode charging a cap dump circuit. I also have to experiment with the AC cap that John had in the 1984 booklet in the gen coils.
here are some pics that I took just now, with 1 gen coil going to the new cap dump circuit that I made.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5769[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5770[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5771[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5772[/ATTACH]
best
Alvaro
Try running it on your 5v and charge the 12 volts, maybe with a simple cap dump via larger transistor or just straight to the 12V...
KR - Patrick
Leave a comment:
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Hi,
I got back into my little ssg motor that I posted in this thread 2~3 years ago.
At that time I had it with a bifilar coil for the motor, 1 trigger and 1 power winding. Now I made a larger coil, with 8 strands of wire, 1 trigger, 7 power.
The circuit is the same as the advanced book, but with small transistors, 2n2222. All matched up and everything.
It runs much faster!, with the old coil it ran 3000++ RPM at 12 volts. and everthing got hot, the coil and transistors.
Now with this coil I have not tryed to run it on 12v... yet.
with 5v input from a phone charger, it runs at 3600++ RPM. o.O
in the past I wondered why mine droped a lot of RPM with the gen coils in place (not connected, just drag from the iron cores). And the SSG from the advanced book didn't drop any RPM with the gen coil. Now I see that I had 1 power winding, and 6 gen coils... the SSG from the book had 7 power windings and 1 gen coil... totally different story.
I have to start new tests now, I have to get other batteries because the lifepo4 that I had at the time are not in the best shape. And I want to try with normal batts, I might get some new 6v 4ah batteries. And see what happens on 6V. It might get up to 4000 RPM.
I don't want to run it on 12V because I am afraid that those magnets escape from the rotor or something. I have to make a better frame...
I might put all 6 gen coils back in, out of phase each with independent diode charging a cap dump circuit. I also have to experiment with the AC cap that John had in the 1984 booklet in the gen coils.
here are some pics that I took just now, with 1 gen coil going to the new cap dump circuit that I made.
best
Alvaro
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Hi,
I was saddened to hear of the death of Mr John Bedini ....
He was a visionary ...
I just wanted to mention that I think Aaron and Peter's work in the Bedini SG series of books is amazing and totally honored John bedini's life and legacy.
Hais.
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casstete
Well i sorry for you, that you can't recognize peaceful symbols. Personally i am on such knowledge level , that i would prefer to work for cia in black project operation, rather on day job which i currently have. Well casstete i will just ignore you..
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Hey Mon lighten up, perhaps you have been watching too many RT videos and news. Stick to the subject matter and the science - please leave the politics and diatribes at a more appropriate forum.
Yaro
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Aaron and Peter i would love to thank you for you hard work , not only you provide beginners information you are actually doing more.
Now we established clear procedure's how to build stuff and which battery type should be used.
Personally i found very interesting the part where Peter mentioned low impedance of wire , in my circuit i use a lot of wire , and this wire is different to coil wire.
As result i try to replace the wire with wire which i used for my coil, hope it increase the output of my machine!
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Hi I have always wanted to try swapping a couple of big boost cap banks to see how well that would do just because they can convert the radiant so efficiently. So if someone has some big supercaps and would be willing to give it a go or has tried this I would love to see how it worked out. I just haven't spent the money on a big super cap bank thus far however one day I want to.
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Originally posted by min2oly View PostFor anyone experimenting with these lifepo4's, if you can pick them up cheap and they are well within your means, please experiment away... I picked up a couple (12V 10-14Ah $100 each) way back when they were first mentioned many many moons ago. I have not had better results with them than I have had with the FLAB's. I don't want anyone thinking this is "the answer" and spending $'s needlessly. If you are not attaining better than 1:1 with FLAB's, IMHO - these are not going to advance your research. These batteries behave VERY different than FLAB's one must re-educate and learn how they charge and discharge so as not to be fooled.
Example when fully charged, they rest about 13.25. when under C20 load they stay at 13.24 and do not drop 1/100V until the power is used. If someone has results to report that are different than my own, please do tell.
$'s are better spent on the wheel, the coils, and transistors. focus on getting a nice clean solid spike at 1:1 then add the generator/pickup coils, although, I have yet to see a demonstration from JB where he needed the pickup coils to get better than 1:1 In JB's recent DVD where he has 2 fans on the wheel and he introduces the comparator, he is getting well over 1:1 with no pickup coils using FLAB's.
Kind regards,
Patrick A.
Yes - the lifepo4's are not a magic answer and we left it out of the book partially because of the cost and we don't want to make claims that they have some rare advantage.
However, we know a handful of people that have been able to get better than expected results with them as mentioned a few times, but everyone has to do this at their own financial risk.
John likes to charge the lifepo4's with steady current using the current regulator circuits up to 14.8 volts and he doesn't really recommend charging them with spikes or caps, but we know some who do that have gotten them to stay charged up on these circuits.
Yeah, the discharge is a steady voltage plateau all the way across and then they suddenly drop off like a cliff - quite the opposite of lead acids.
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Originally posted by AlvaroHN View PostTnx for the reply Aaron, so probably I have the air gap to small, I am going remove (again) all gen coils, and play with just 1 of them changing the air gap, to compare generated voltage vs RPM drop to see at what distance is better for me. Then place all other gen coils at same distance.
Or maybe just let it like that, since the amp draw is proportional to speed, so I don't care if I am losing some rpm since the amp draw also goes down.
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For anyone experimenting with these lifepo4's, if you can pick them up cheap and they are well within your means, please experiment away... I picked up a couple (12V 10-14Ah $100 each) way back when they were first mentioned many many moons ago. I have not had better results with them than I have had with the FLAB's. I don't want anyone thinking this is "the answer" and spending $'s needlessly. If you are not attaining better than 1:1 with FLAB's, IMHO - these are not going to advance your research. These batteries behave VERY different than FLAB's one must re-educate and learn how they charge and discharge so as not to be fooled.
Example when fully charged, they rest about 13.25. when under C20 load they stay at 13.24 and do not drop 1/100V until the power is used. If someone has results to report that are different than my own, please do tell.
$'s are better spent on the wheel, the coils, and transistors. focus on getting a nice clean solid spike at 1:1 then add the generator/pickup coils, although, I have yet to see a demonstration from JB where he needed the pickup coils to get better than 1:1 In JB's recent DVD where he has 2 fans on the wheel and he introduces the comparator, he is getting well over 1:1 with no pickup coils using FLAB's.
Kind regards,
Patrick A.
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Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View PostDepends on the gap.
At the conference, it has 0 rpm loss when the lights were on. The gap at that time was far enough away that there was no difference.
With the gap as it is now at 1/2 the gap, 2% loss in rpm with the lights on. If it is 356 with led's off with that gap, I'd estimate it might pick up another 5-10 rpm if the generator coil was completely removed.
I have some tests planned for that machine and I can measure that at that time by removing the generator coil completely.
Or maybe just let it like that, since the amp draw is proportional to speed, so I don't care if I am losing some rpm since the amp draw also goes down.
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