7 circuit Bedini SG

[shadow44]

Shadow, my unit also draws 1.6A from the primary battery. My secondary battery is being charged from 0.86A to 0.69A depending on the charge level. For my COP calculation I am using 0.775A. Wonder what other experimenters are getting.

Kamen

with simular size small car batteries, of the same state of charge I am getting .900ah back in, with a 1.84ah draw...

[shadow44]

Shadow, my unit also draws 1.6A from the primary battery. My secondary battery is being charged from 0.86A to 0.69A depending on the charge level. For my COP calculation I am using 0.775A. Wonder what other experimenters are getting.

Kamen

Im not sure maybe others will drop in and share their numbers...

I have unhooked mine for the moment. I am doing some battery switching, so I can get more alike batteries for comparison. Ill let you know what my charge rate is when I get this done.

[Kamen]

right now its drawing 1.6amp. that seems pretty high dosent it?

Shadow, my unit also draws 1.6A from the primary battery. My secondary battery is being charged from 0.86A to 0.69A depending on the charge level. For my COP calculation I am using 0.775A. Wonder what other experimenters are getting.

Kamen

[shadow44]

right now its drawing 1.6amp. that seems pretty high dosent it?

[shadow44]

She LIVES!

only had one bad transistor! took it out of the loop, free air cooled the trans to get rid of the common collector isssue and she is running on 6 circuits!

Thanks so much folks!

Dont worry, I will have more questions, but let me add this.

I have been building batteries. I have some experiments on building alum batteries. If your building your own homemade batteries, before you put sulfuric acid in them run some tests on alum. There is a lot of info on restoring batteries with alum, but not much on making your own. I have been achieving good results with a 1lb to 1 gal mix and am not done with my tests, but my cba is showing promising results so far!

[John_Koorn]

Shadow, disconnect the coil wires from each of the collectors. One dead transistor will make the other ones look dead too, because the other ends of the coil wires are all connected together.

None of the transistors will get any hotter than a few degrees above ambient temperature if connected properly. I don't use heat sinks and mine are never more than 2 degrees above ambient.

John K.

[shadow44]

Shadow44,

The reason why there is only one neon going on is that all your collectors are connected by the screws on your cooling pate.
The neon with the lowest voltage will light up and consume the radiant. If you disconnect that neon the next one in voltage will come on
I think, don't try because you never want your neon's on.

You can test a transistor with an ordinary ohm meter and measure the resistance between the base and collector and between the base
and emittor the should be around the same value in one direction and not giving a reading the other direction.

And the wheel should be running in both directions!

Karel

Well your partially correct. there actually is an insulator. (used ones) under each trans. but I checked the resistance and all of the collectors have connection to the heat sink. I have new ones ordered, just had not got them yet and was impatient. so how hot should they get if I just let them "free air" cool? would they get too hot in a few minutes just to test it?

[shadow44]

Shadow, you can use the ohms test on your meter. Measure between collector and emitter. If you get 0 ohms your transistor is blown.

John K.

Yep. dead short on all of them. I dident pull them out yet, they are still soldered in. I'll take them out in a bit and double check. I was hopeing to find a good one and get it running on just 1 circuit till the new ones get here...

Thanks for your help.

[knagtegl]

Shadow44,

The reason why there is only one neon going on is that all your collectors are connected by the screws on your cooling pate.
The neon with the lowest voltage will light up and consume the radiant. If you disconnect that neon the next one in voltage will come on
I think, don't try because you never want your neon's on.

You can test a transistor with an ordinary ohm meter and measure the resistance between the base and collector and between the base
and emittor the should be around the same value in one direction and not giving a reading the other direction.

And the wheel should be running in both directions!

Karel

[John_Koorn]

Shadow, you can use the ohms test on your meter. Measure between collector and emitter. If you get 0 ohms your transistor is blown.

John K.

[shadow44]

Oops you ain't suppose to unhook those charge terminals unless your bulbs can handle the radiant and or you are running 500 miliamps or less on the input. First thing I did was check the parts you talked about and then replaced the transistor, well I tested mine first.

You mean you unhooked the pos before your ever got a charge voltage pumping the battery???

Nice copy of the JB bike wheel.

Mike

Yes I unhooked it... Should not have done that huh. I thought I had seen where that was how you tested the circuit, if they all lit up you had it right. the wheel was cranking pretty good, faster than I expected, so maybe it just burnt things. I'm so disappointed. Its going to be days before I can try it again....

Thanks for the compliment I have several days in making that wheel. Hours studying every word picture and detail. but it should be worth the effort when its done.

I need a way to test the transistors, I dont have a capacitor tester, just a Fluke 77 multimeter. maybe I could find a good one left, and get it running on it till I get my new ones.

[shadow44]

shadow44, double check your transistor.. it seem it burn away,don't ever release charging battery while SG running, it would end up burn all of your transistor..or weaken it
Cheers,
Alfin

alfinip2000 I looked up testing a trans, and all I found was using a cap tester on your multimeter. My multimeter is a 20 yr old Fluke, and dont have a cap tester. Is there another way to test the transistors?

[shadow44]

yes it would appear that way. They are actually unsupported hangin in mid-air. The resistors have sufficient strength to just hold it out about .5 inch above the transistors.

[knagtegl]

Shadow44,

The thing you are doing wrong I think is that if I look at the picture, all your collectors are connected through the cooling plate, you should isolate them ore use separate plates for each transistor.
And of course never ever run without a charge battery, better to short the output then to run it open.
The collector of the transistors is on the middle pin but also on the plate at the back of the transistor, maybe not everyone knows this.

Good luck, It looks good,

Karel

[alfinip2000]

shadow44, double check your transistor.. it seem it burn away,don't ever release charging battery while SG running, it would end up burn all of your transistor..or weaken it
Cheers,
Alfin