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Thread: Bedini Comparator Cap Dump

  1. #101
    Volty,

    Very pretty work on your cap pulser circuit, and the mounting up in the box.......

    making it adjustable like this, lets you change batterys sizes easy, or adapt to different input sources easy

    Good work.....

  2. #102
    One of the best solid state switches I have ever made was with a LM358 op-amp(as a comparator) driving a mosfet. The mosfet pulled power though a coil, and the back emf was directed through a diode, (like in the original ssg circuit, but with a mosfet instead of a transistor.) I has a neon connected across the mosfet(IRF840). Out out all the solid state switches I made, the op-amp driving the mosfet gave the best purple flash in the neon. Indicating a good radiant voltage spike. Even John Bedini mentioned, that a Comparator driving Fets was the best switch, in his "Linear Amp Regulator" DVD. I had lots of trouble making mosfets switch clean in the early days, until I discovered the comparator driving the mosfets, after designing many circuit configurations and staying up all night.

    As simple as the configuration is, of the LM358 op-amp as a comparator driving a mosfet. It took me years to figure this one out.
    Last edited by Nityesh Schnaderbeck; 11-20-2014 at 06:18 PM.

  3. #103
    Quote Originally Posted by Volty View Post
    Hey,

    Long time no reads. In this whole thread no one has set up a rotory selector switch for the Hysteresis Cap. I found that to control dumps per second rate, BOTH Cap Charging Bank and Hysteresis Cap must be selectable.

    My box has one 4,700uF 50V always connected, which will be dumped, and i have gang switches to add another 4,700uF, than a 10,000uF, and another 10,000uF, for 29,400uF TL. Smaller bank dumps faster.

    Selecting a smaller Hysteresis Capacitor also dumps faster and shallower. Adjusting Dump Threshold Voltage back up where it was helps, but the ability to change combinations of capacitors is the very best you can attain i say.

    Attachment 4075Attachment 4076

    *EDIT - Note that the Dump LED in Mirrored trace Layout is backwards.
    Hi Volty,

    Nice work !
    I had the same idea of switching different cap sizes for different smaller battery sizes but at the end I never did it so ... thumbs UP !! ;-)

    Long ago I was experimenting with a small 9V rechargeable NiMH that was dead. I did not know how much of a dump would be suitable for it and I was afraid it could explode. So I started with a 2200 uF cap and than added one more in parallel, than one more up to 4 together.
    This is when it downed on me that I could use some kind of switching for different batteries.

    I want to share the problem I experienced back than playing with this. Three of the caps I had were the same and the forth one was different brand and taller (lower ESR). Using only the taller one alone the circuit behaved nicely. As soon as I put one of the others though it started to dump faster and shallower. I did not like that and than I started adjusting the "hysteresis" cap as you call it or C2 cap in case you use RS_'s circuit. So I concluded that caps with the same Low ESR should be used.

    Regards
    Lman
    Last edited by Lman; 11-21-2014 at 03:39 AM.

  4. #104
    "Volty" nice PCB layout artwork, remember to thicken the tracks coming from the cap with solder, silver solder is best.

    SNAGs-002.jpg

    If you are using this circuit above, here is a small enhancement mod. Connect a 100Kohm stabilization resistor between pin4 and pin6 of "opto 1"(H11D1) this will improve the switching, and help prevent false triggering. Pin6 of the "H11D1" is sensitive to picking up noise with no stabilization resister especially when multiplied by the gain of "Q1"(BD243C).

    you can also try connecting the 100Kohm stabilization resister from "pin6 of opto 1" to the emitter of Q1(BD233C), since the photo transistor inside "opto 1"(H11D1) and "Q1"(BD243C) is connected as a darlinton.

    But find out what works best. Just helping you out.
    Last edited by Nityesh Schnaderbeck; 11-22-2014 at 01:19 AM.

  5. #105
    Hi Nityesh,

    Would you care to share the comparator driven mosfet circuit by any chance?

    Regards

  6. #106
    "RS_" and "Volty" you have spent a lot of effort on this circuit. And I could imagine that many experimenters have built this.

    "RS_" you have modified the original non working circuit to a more functional circuit with many fixes, thankyou for the you time that you have spent on this.

    It could be possible that there are more modifications needed for this circuit. I do not know why "John Bedini" has this style of mosfet driver circuit. It really does not matter how you drive the mosfets, as long as you can achieve clean switching.

    I have modified this circuit and converted the comparator to an adjustable schmitt trigger with adjustable hysteresis. With only 2 additional components(R13 and C4), it is a very easy mod. I have also added a stabilization resistor(R12) to help stop "Opto 1(H11D1)" from false triggering and to improve switching.

    Bedini Inverted Cap Pulser With Schmitt Trigger.jpg
    Bedini Inverted Cap Pulser with Schmitt Trigger.pdf


    So for those who have built this circuit, all they have to do is add 3 components. So you can have an adjustable charge threshold and an adjustable discharge threshold of the capture capacitor. The value of C4(The anti oscillation capacitor) may need experimenting with. As this op-amp based schmitt trigger can be vulnerable to oscillations if not designed properly.

    The scope across the capture capacitor will tell the truth of this mod.

    Kind
    Regards
    Nityesh Schnaderbeck
    Last edited by Nityesh Schnaderbeck; 11-22-2014 at 12:13 PM.

  7. #107
    Nityesh,

    the H11D1 Mosfet driver circuit is in John Bedini's patent......
    I have built many of these cap pulsers over the last 14 years or so, and have added the resistor to pin 6 as you describe, and can see no difference in operation with it, or with out it......

    http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=0...iew+first+page

  8. #108
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    Nityesh,

    the H11D1 Mosfet driver circuit is in John Bedini's patent......
    I have built many of these cap pulsers over the last 14 years or so, and have added the resistor to pin 6 as you describe, and can see no difference in operation with it, or with out it......

    http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=0...iew+first+page
    Yes, you are right, it does not seem to make much difference, like you I have made lots of them to. But everything seems to change if you are turning on 3 transistors simultaneously like in a tesla switch. I had been working on a tri-symmetrical solid state battery switch, (My own development). that uses 9 transistors 3 coils and 3 batteries. And each transistor had it's own opto-isolator. For some reason I had lots of trouble with the switching, and the 100Kohm stabilizing resistors (from Pin6 of H11D1 to the emitter of the transistor) on all opto-isolators solved this problem, and then the switching was clean. So I just do this by default now, as an extra measure. I think the trouble can occur when driving a high gain transistor. And this seems to pick up other pulsing events in the circuit.

    On John Bedini's patent http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=0...iew+first+page the opto-isolators don't have the base pin of the photo transistors. Some opto-isolators don't have the base pin of the internal photo transistor.

    "RS_" Thankyou for sharing your expertise and experience with me, very happy to talk to another "free energy" enthusiast like me. I really like your feedback. I also have experimented with many free energy devices, I have a box of old circuits. As well as a box of blown up components, and melted plastic spools. It all part of the fun. And I bet you have old circuits and blown up components too
    Last edited by Nityesh Schnaderbeck; 11-22-2014 at 07:04 PM.

  9. #109
    Quote Originally Posted by Nityesh Schnaderbeck View Post
    "RS_" and "Volty" you have spent a lot of effort on this circuit. And I could imagine that many experimenters have built this.

    "RS_" you have modified the original non working circuit to a more functional circuit with many fixes, thankyou for the you time that you have spent on this.

    It could be possible that there are more modifications needed for this circuit. I do not know why "John Bedini" has this style of mosfet driver circuit. It really does not matter how you drive the mosfets, as long as you can achieve clean switching.

    I have modified this circuit and converted the comparator to an adjustable schmitt trigger with adjustable hysteresis. With only 2 additional components(R13 and C4), it is a very easy mod. I have also added a stabilization resistor(R12) to help stop "Opto 1(H11D1)" from false triggering and to improve switching.

    Bedini Inverted Cap Pulser With Schmitt Trigger.jpg
    Bedini Inverted Cap Pulser with Schmitt Trigger.pdf


    So for those who have built this circuit, all they have to do is add 3 components. So you can have an adjustable charge threshold and an adjustable discharge threshold of the capture capacitor. The value of C4(The anti oscillation capacitor) may need experimenting with. As this op-amp based schmitt trigger can be vulnerable to oscillations if not designed properly.

    The scope across the capture capacitor will tell the truth of this mod.

    Kind
    Regards
    Nityesh Schnaderbeck

    Hello Nityesh and Lman,

    Thank you Nityesh for your Linear Amplifier Thread posts. I saved every file and am going to build it.

    Here is the hand wired solder-side schematic i used for my Cap Dump Gang Box w Rotary Hysteresis Selector, but no extra Zener in the back end for the FET's. They seem to work OK without it.
    EDIT * Cannot attach file some unknown reason *
    741 Op-Amp Cap Dump.jpg

    I cannot attach Express Schematic or Express PCB source file, sorry. I added beefy fine strand Hobby Silicone insulated wire for the paths you see as 18 AWG in older photo here of solder side.

    I did not use Low ESR Photo Flash type Cap's, just what i found at salvage store and had from EBay buy. I did not use faster and lower Ohms IRFP260, i did not know they existed, just IRFP250's i saw in pre-resin-potted Cap Dump schematic.

    I am charging mostly all LiPo 3 cell, 11.1V, 2200mAh Zagi HP Batteries, for the Zagi HP, the worlds best flying wing: http://www.zagi.com/zagi-electric-wi...esc-or-battery

    I am not sure if Lead Acid are better at choice of battery type for Cap Dumping or not. When I charge 4 of these LiPo's in parallel like this, with NO Cap Dump used to weaken those Golden Pulses Raining Down..., LiPo's charge from 11.3V to about 12.7V with this 4-Coiler in about 4.5 hours. faster without Cap Dump. Four 11.1V 3S 25C Lipo's Charging at 12VDC 2.0 Amps from 6A Wall Wart - Bedini SG Radiant Col.jpg It takes about 1.25 to 1.5 hours each if charged LiPo alone one at a time without Cap Dump.

    LiPo's charged with SG do not need Balancing. Cells come up together somehow, always. So SG is my favorite LiPo Charger. Over-Charger too :-) As cool as this thing is to play with, Cap Dumping with LiPo's at least is not faster, it is slower. About 20% slower with LiPo's, which seem to resond to raw SG pulses better.

    Still I want to use the Cap Dump to meter Dumps Rates or Joules filled and dumped with 1-Coiler Vs. 4-Coiler, all 8 Trani, 23 AWG, then I will make a 23 AWG 16 Trani Single Coil SG and answer AWG Vs. Max Tranis fitting some AWG without heat "Celebrity Death Match". Patrick says 23AWG not good enough, and i say more Trani's more than compensate for this AWG. We will see if 16 Trani's stray cool enough with rotored operation. Cap Dump seems like nice visual meter for how fast it fills and dumps.

    The 4-Coiler shown draws between 1.2A to 2.5A @ 12VDC, the higher Amps if i push some DC with it. I use a 2Watt, 10 Turn, wire-wound Po,t hot-glued to that Amp meter.

    With my Cap Dump Box with poor ESR Caps and lesser IRFP250's x2, with slow turn-Off times, it takes 5.5 hours to charge these same 4 LiPO's in Parallel. I have NOT tried every combination of Dump Threshold Voltage and Hysteresis Cap Selection and mapped it out. It takes me one hour to go fly off 5 batteries at full throttle, a cool 87 MPH flat and level If I charge them again right away, it is easier to charge them, and not prepared to say how much, but ~ 25% easier or faster next charge, kinda like

    * * * So Nitesh, you appear to be way expert with electronics. Can you help with a PNP with NPN series configuration for faster Turn-Off Times?
    1)NPN On (Active Turn-On)
    2)PNP Off (Active Turn-Off)
    3)NPN Off (Relaxation Turn-Off, when PNP already Off, so slowness no matter)
    4)PNP On (Relaxation Turn-On, when NPN already Off, so slowness no matter)
    I wish i could think of some way to make this work with a Potentiometer Trigger Adjust like it has now, but slow Off-Times make me want to try this out.




    I have also built 3 Trani 2 Cap 1 Battery Tesla Switch, and used this same H1D1 to BD243 to IRFP250 FET's in parallel, and found Turn-Off times SLOW. 1 Batt 2 Cap 3 Trani 1-Motor Tesla Switch from IceHouse Radio Show Interview.jpg

    Relaxation turn off never as fast as Active Turn-On.
    Slow Turn-Off Example_Yellow_is_SG3524-Out Blue_is_H11D1-Out to BD243 to Red MJL21194 or IRFP250.jpg

    I think the SG could switch off faster in the way i listed above with series PNP and NPN. Please advise. I bet you have mastered this already?

    Thank you in advance,

    Ward
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Volty; 11-23-2014 at 05:56 AM. Reason: typo

  10. #110
    Here are the extra attachments it would not let me attach last:
    Solder SIde Before Beefier.jpgWards Op-Amp Cap Dump Inside and Outside.jpgRotor and Solid State Ganged - Wards Custom SS Spool Design.jpg

    The "22 AWG" runs you see were replaced with 12 AWG Fine-Strand Silicone Hobby Wire.

    I expected the Amp Meter to hinder things, but the voltage at Battery is always 0.1V higher when passing through Amp Meter.

    I have 8 AWG same Fine-Strand Silicone Hobby Wire, and I am really considering changing these runs again, with shorter Umbilical hanging out. My 1-Coiler and 4-Coiler all need direct soldered largest possible AWG runs. I ican find 6 AWG Fine-Strand Silicone Hobby WIre, but ony in 18" lengths from some hobby shop. Fine-Stranded Silicone insulated AWG's lower than this seem not to exist, and they are so awesome and flexible and easy to use, and no melt insulation is best.

    I listen and hear and wonder about inertia described in the recent SG Call-In Questions w. Aaron and Peter, about how the real effects happen with very low impedance everything, Especially batteries, of the LiFeP0 type. 150Ah costs $600 each though, hmmm.
    Last edited by Volty; 11-23-2014 at 03:07 PM.

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