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Thread: Nansulate - Industrial Nanotech, Inc.

  1. #1
    Networking Architect Aaron Murakami's Avatar
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    Nansulate - Industrial Nanotech, Inc.

    In a new home I recently purchased, I choose Nansulate as the paint coating to be applied to the ceiling paint on the main floor and the walls that to go the outside of the house.

    In my other home, every square inch inside has the Hytech additive (1 quart per gallon), which has the ceramic microspheres with a vacuum inside. It is only a radiant barrier and not insulative. This was added to 2 coats of primer before the paint went on. If added to paint, it will add a white color to the mix so that has to be accounted for.

    Nansulate is both radiant and insulative. It costs more but the benefits are way greater. It's also clear so you can hardly tell it is on the paint.

    If I walk up to a wall that goes to the outside, I can see it is a bit more shiny than the interior walls and it feels more slick. But for the most part, I can't even tell it is there so it didn't change the paint color.

    I calculated about 2600 square feet of surface area that needed the coating on the inside of the main floor. The numbers showed me that it needed about 18 gallons so I purchased four buckets of 5 gallons each. Each 5 gallon bucket is $375.00 USD + shipping.

    The Home Protect Clear Coat is the exact product from their line that I used. Nansulate HomeProtect Clear Coat Home Insulation and Mold Resistance Coating

    I've kept my eye on the market for a while for paint on additives or coatings that are either radiant barriers, insulative or both. Peter brought this one to my attention a while back and from all the research that I've done, it is the one that I'd go with. The documentation is extensive and it is in heavy use by industry around the world.

    Check out these videos on how resistive to heat transfer the Nansulate is!
    NanoPioneer - YouTube



    Even before insulation or radiant barriers, weatherization is the priority but that can all be done while living in the house, while the Nansulate needed to be put on before I moved in.

    This is a 1960's California style split level home and the primary heat is gas fired boiler with baseboard radiators. But of course not matter what kind of heat, the goal should always be to keep out the heat we don't want and hold on to the heat that we do. Later, I'll put the Nansulate on the walls that go to the exterior of the house on the bottom level, roof shingles, hot water/boiler pipes and on the outside of the house.

    I have some of the past heating bills during the winter so I can compare the energy usage. Not sure what the past owner(s) kept the temperature at but at my other home, I kept it at 71-74F throughout the winter and I still pay less than my neighbors. Anyway, it will be an experiment in progress like everything else. I think the standard for R values in the walls should be 60 minimum and 100 in the roof. Obviously the standards aren't going to become that since the establishment actually doesn't want any real solutions but we can always do it ourselves.

    With Nansulate, 3 thin coatings (5 wet mils per coating) seems to be at about R15, which is incredible. PLUS - it is a radiant barrier!

    The company won't make R value claims since dealing with radiant barrier benefits, it complicates the issue and the entire R value system is flawed anyway. But the bottom line is that Nansulate works and is proven and I trust the documentation enough to spent a few thousand on it for my own home. When I'm done, I might have spent a total of about $4500 or so for all the Nansulate that I want. The ROI might be stretched out a bit but what is never accounted for in ROI is freedom and independence.

    I'm going to use solar evacuated tube collectors in thermosiphon mode to preheat the water heater and boiler water so I won't even need a pump. It will be a glycol closed loop system. There is plenty of sun from sunrise to sunset all day long as the entire back of the house is south facing. With superior weatherization, insulation and radiant barriers and solar heated water, I don't expect to pay much for heating all 3000 square feet of this home to the low 70's throughout the winter. That is the goal anyway. The Nansulate will lock the heat into the house for much longer. There are a lot of large picture windows but that is another issue.

    Anyway, I'd recommend seriously looking at using Nansulate to lower your heating and cooling bills. Nansulate Home and Industrial Thermal Insulation and Asset Protection Coatings

    I'll post my experience over time with this.
    Aaron Murakami





    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

  2. #2
    Aaron,

    I think the standard for R values in the walls should be 60 minimum and 100 in the roof. Obviously the standards aren't going to become that since the establishment actually doesn't want any real solutions but we can always do it ourselves.
    Respectfully what you are sharing here is very weak subjective testimony. If you really study how R-Values ratings are produced, you would not likely see this the same way. Specifically... thermal resistance values are a result of the "properties" of the material utilized, bundled with the environment that they are applied in. Capacity to insulate without regard to local humidity ranges, and an inherent ability to not allow saturation of water vapor or liquid water within the material is key.

    This test illustrates that ROI of some insulating materials is a diminishing curve, not driven by R-Values. The material being tested has a absolutely stable profile without regard to local water vapor - it's specific hydrophobic property makes it a consistent performer no matter where it's applied. The test below shows the insulating value of this material, approximately R7 per inch. As you can see... in very short order more insulating value past a certain point, is just expensive and has a diminishing return.

    diminishing_returns2.jpg
    Last edited by DavidE; 07-11-2014 at 06:11 AM.

  3. #3
    Aaron,
    Any update on how well you think Nansulate helped. I just recently got married and I am moving into my wife's house and we will be upgrading the insulation and weatherization. I bought 5 gallons. I am just not sure where I want to start testing it. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Tom

  4. #4
    Networking Architect Aaron Murakami's Avatar
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    Hi Tom,

    I have 2 layers of nansulate inside my home on the walls and ceilings - anything that goes to the outside of the home.

    It is hard to tell what the difference is because it was put in shortly after I moved in so I don't have much of a history to compare.

    If I were going to just test it, I would do the ceiling since that would be the most heat loss (besides windows). You could pick a room and put 2 layers on half the ceiling so you can compare side by side with an infrared thermometer or thermal imaging camera.

    I have 1-2 gallons of the Nansulate for boiler pipes and will be putting 10 coatings on my pipes from my boiler. I'll do some before and after thermal imaging shots to show the difference.

    Aaron
    Aaron Murakami





    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

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