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Thread: The Ultimate Cap Dump

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom C View Post
    capacitors are like batteries.... in parallel your voltage stays the same but your capacitance goes up. 2 15000 uf caps in parallel becomes 1 30000 uf cap. n series the voltage goes up but the capacitance stays the same. its always "1" source. caps have differing discharge times but it is usually in the nano seconds of difference. it depends if you have a really good new cap or are recycling caps from old power supplies. if anyone runs into the old HP lazerjets or any big printer at a junk yard, the power supply for the fuzer is huge, I have found 50 volt caps in them large Farad ones.

    Tom C

    Thanks Tom. I think capacitance divides down when connected in series fyi. I was just thinking that if two caps were dumping instead of just one, it might dump quicker than if it were only one cap. I know we are talking nanoseconds here so it might be a moot point.

    Chris

  2. #22
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catrinisin View Post
    Thanks Tom. I think capacitance divides down when connected in series fyi. I was just thinking that if two caps were dumping instead of just one, it might dump quicker than if it were only one cap. I know we are talking nanoseconds here so it might be a moot point.

    Chris
    yea u r right
    Electronics 2000 | Series / Parallel Capacitor Calculator

    fun stuff!!

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  3. #23
    Senior Member John_Koorn's Avatar
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    Before deciding on adding more caps in parallel, make sure your cap pulser circuit can handle it. Make sure your switching device (BJT, SCR, FET, etc.) can handle the amount of power you are switching through it.

    Also make sure that the wires or traces can handle large surges of current. The larger the better.

    Check the circuit for heat, if anything is getting hot you are losing too much in heat and need to add more devices or thicker wire/traces. If you have to parallel more devices, make sure they are matched.

    John K.

  4. #24
    Now we're talking folks :-)
    This is some good info. The basics are always very important, in fact most important!

    So, what do we have, back to triggering the SSR - one wire in one wire out.
    Try and keep it simple like the SCR/zener combo.
    Now we know.

    1. We can get a positive voltage(battery supply) between the two negatives. That is, with 24v in a CAP and 12 volts in our charge battery, connect the two positives and we have 12 volts available between the two negatives. this is where our power comes from.

    2. We need to send a pulse across the SSR's input in order for the output to connect the two negatives and discharge the 24v into the 12 volts (sticking w/ the above analogy).

    3. We now need a reliable method to send this pulse not on a "timed" basis but driven by the difference in voltage between the cap and the charge battery.


    So how can we do this reliably when the zener has so many conditions that make it lock up and flow like a river over a dam rather than a ram pump?

    Can we put the zener under a condition that it sees less voltage after the dump?

    Should we ditch the zener all together?

    Should our timing be driven by the difference rather than a set zener?

    post a circuit, let's have some fun, no harm in trying.

    Might have to try some of that nocturnal egg hunting... :-)

    -KR
    Patrick

  5. #25
    Hi to all,
    i have built this cap dump circuit and it works very well,the voltage goes up to 25 and then it dump every 1.5 sec but you have to give the wheel a resistance,otherwise the SCR don't switch off.JB said the bikewheel charges better when it's not only free spinning( for this he has the fan).I have it in my livingroom and i don't want wind at the moment,maybe in summer,so i took a hoseclip,a piece of leather and a screw.Now you can easy controll the resistance.The amps from the drivingbattery didn't change but the rpm go down from 160 to 140.
    SCR BT152 from NXP
    5 LED white 3.1v
    cap 22000f 80V and a neon(better a GDT with 75v,or a cap with 100v)
    Here are the pictures.bedini Thyristor-LED-Cap_dump.jpgmein bremse ssg.jpgmein capdump.jpgmein ssg mit bremse+capdump.jpg

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by forelle View Post
    Hi to all,
    i have built this cap dump circuit and it works very well,the voltage goes up to 25 and then it dump every 1.5 sec but you have to give the wheel a resistance,otherwise the SCR don't switch off.JB said the bikewheel charges better when it's not only free spinning( for this he has the fan).I have it in my livingroom and i don't want wind at the moment,maybe in summer,so i took a hoseclip,a piece of leather and a screw.Now you can easy controll the resistance.The amps from the drivingbattery didn't change but the rpm go down from 160 to 140.
    SCR BT152 from NXP
    5 LED white 3.1v
    cap 22000f 80V and a neon(better a GDT with 75v,or a cap with 100v)
    Here are the pictures.bedini Thyristor-LED-Cap_dump.jpgmein bremse ssg.jpgmein capdump.jpgmein ssg mit bremse+capdump.jpg
    Hi Forelle,
    that's an interesting use/positioning of the LED's. Nice job on the pulley system.
    so what's going on different w/ the charging of the cap when you place a load on the wheel with your setup?
    Thanks for sharing that, will give it a try...

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    Hi Forelle,
    that's an interesting use/positioning of the LED's. Nice job on the pulley system.
    so what's going on different w/ the charging of the cap when you place a load on the wheel with your setup?
    Thanks for sharing that, will give it a try...
    Hi min2oly,
    i am not sure what the difference is.Please can you tell me exactly what and how i should measure.The cap goes down from 25v to the batteryvoltage with and without the resistance but without resistance it doesn't switch off.Gatetriggercurent Bt152 is 3-32ma maybe a bigger one would work without resistance.If you want scopeshoots tell me from where.
    Have a nice day.
    Oliver

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by forelle View Post
    Hi min2oly,
    i am not sure what the difference is.Please can you tell me exactly what and how i should measure.The cap goes down from 25v to the batteryvoltage with and without the resistance but without resistance it doesn't switch off.Gatetriggercurent Bt152 is 3-32ma maybe a bigger one would work without resistance.If you want scopeshoots tell me from where.
    Have a nice day.
    Oliver
    Hi Oliver,
    That is very nice how you have it set up, simple and sweet. 3-32mA might be a bit much for a small build, but perhaps that current is not being used up???
    sometimes these switches can pass the current on to the charge battery.

    Slider also mentioned using a resistor there, this is how he controls, makes sure, the switch turns off and does not lock up. I would not change a thing as long as it's working efficiently, If you are just wanting to experiment, it's always fun to build another, pop it in and compare the two.
    -KR
    Patrick

  9. #29
    Whats up people :-)

    Almost there!
    Great ideas here Keep them coming!

    Wouldn't it be nice if someone who already had a nice simple adjustable voltage driven circuit jumped in and showed us the quick down and dirty reliable method... not calling anyone out here, just sayn

    Most if not all of you will figure out how I did it w/ this next video. I will post the final part 4 in the end anyway.
    Ok Part 3, enjoy:



    Only one final step left. A few people have already PMd me that you get it and I am also very impressed with a couple of the circuits that have been provided.
    -KR
    Patrick

  10. #30
    I forgot about this video:



    John and Chuck go over some stuff and run into the SCR lock. We can learn from the conversation they are having, as to why it does lock. I just like watching these over again. I always gleam something I missed before...

    -KR
    Patrick

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