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  • Originally posted by rokan View Post
    Any ideas of how we can get this to work???
    Can you test all 4 didoes with a diode setting on a multi-meter? I don't recall if the voltage necessary to test is high enough on those meters to with these hv diodes, but it is worth a try.

    Put probes one way on diode and check reading then reverse probes and check reading. Do for all 4 and see if all 4 gives the same readings.
    Aaron Murakami





    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
      Can you test all 4 didoes with a diode setting on a multi-meter? I don't recall if the voltage necessary to test is high enough on those meters to with these hv diodes, but it is worth a try.

      Put probes one way on diode and check reading then reverse probes and check reading. Do for all 4 and see if all 4 gives the same readings.
      I can check them but the diodes aren't the problem, it starts mis-firing before I ever get the diodes connected!? If I just hook the jumper wire to the connection at the top of the spark plug it goes stupid before anything else is connected to the end of the wire??!!

      Comment


      • Have you considered going back to basics?
        As in removing (or bypassing) the MSD box, placing a diode between the primary and secondary of the coil, and maybe a capacitor across the primary?
        (what if the output spikes the MSD puts out are the cause of the misfiring?)
        Can you get plasma that way? Does the engine stop misfiring and run correctly?

        There's only one way to find out, right? You're reverse engineering the factory ignition to implement an aftermarket solution (which I seem to recall the manufacturer couldn't help you apply to your car), and then modifying the intended purpose of that.
        See if the key part of the mod (the diode) works first, then add to it. Seems (to me) to be the simplest way to proceed.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
          Have you considered going back to basics?
          As in removing (or bypassing) the MSD box, placing a diode between the primary and secondary of the coil, and maybe a capacitor across the primary?
          (what if the output spikes the MSD puts out are the cause of the misfiring?)
          Can you get plasma that way? Does the engine stop misfiring and run correctly?

          There's only one way to find out, right? You're reverse engineering the factory ignition to implement an aftermarket solution (which I seem to recall the manufacturer couldn't help you apply to your car), and then modifying the intended purpose of that.
          See if the key part of the mod (the diode) works first, then add to it. Seems (to me) to be the simplest way to proceed.
          Originally with everything stock I tried the multiple capacitors to boost spark connected to the spark plug wire T which connects to the top of the plug and the other end going to ground and it barely ran with those?? Seems that when I connect anything to the spark plug wire to go to the top of the plug it just screws the whole sparking system up and starts mis-firing???

          Comment


          • Hi Aaron,

            Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
            Can you test all 4 didoes with a diode setting on a multi-meter? I don't recall if the voltage necessary to test is high enough on those meters to with these hv diodes, but it is worth a try.

            Put probes one way on diode and check reading then reverse probes and check reading. Do for all 4 and see if all 4 gives the same readings.
            I tried testing mine with a multi-meter and it showed infinite resistance in both directions whether in normal resistance mode or diode check mode. The forward voltage drop on these is too high to check this way. Don't remember for sure but I'm thinking it's in the 9 to 12 volt range.

            The way to check these is to fasten a 1000K resistor in series with each one you want to test and then place 20 volts dc across the circuit both ways. Then by checking voltage drop across the resistor, you should see 20 volts minus the forward drop of the diode in the forward direction and zero volts in the reverse direction. And if you check voltage drop across the diode, it should show the actual forward drop in the forward direction and 20 volts in the reverse direction.

            I think these are made up with several PN junctions in series to get the high voltage rating, so each PN junction forward drop (~.6 volts) is added together to get the total forward drop across the entire device.

            Comment


            • Hi Rokan,

              Originally posted by rokan View Post
              Any ideas of how we can get this to work???
              Did you try the suggestions I listed in post 992 with additional capacitors and a Faraday shield to see if RFI is the problem?

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                Hi Rokan,



                Did you try the suggestions I listed in post 992 with additional capacitors and a Faraday shield to see if RFI is the problem?
                Not yet, been sick

                Comment


                • Originally posted by rokan View Post
                  Originally with everything stock I tried the multiple capacitors to boost spark connected to the spark plug wire T which connects to the top of the plug and the other end going to ground and it barely ran with those?? Seems that when I connect anything to the spark plug wire to go to the top of the plug it just screws the whole sparking system up and starts mis-firing???
                  yeah, that's not what I asked.
                  I keep going back in my head to the video of Peter Lindemann at a conference demonstrating how by simply by adding a diode, the dynamic of how the circuit performs is altered rather dramatically, making the plasma event rather spectacular in comparison.
                  There was no T-cable, no MSD box...power on, power off & spark, repeat; Simple and elegant.
                  Have you stripped your ignition down to the basics to replicate that?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
                    yeah, that's not what I asked.
                    I keep going back in my head to the video of Peter Lindemann at a conference demonstrating how by simply by adding a diode, the dynamic of how the circuit performs is altered rather dramatically, making the plasma event rather spectacular in comparison.
                    There was no T-cable, no MSD box...power on, power off & spark, repeat; Simple and elegant.
                    Have you stripped your ignition down to the basics to replicate that?
                    That is my original innovation on the plasma jet ignitions. However, that is best for bench tests as the HV output goes to a single spark gap.

                    In a car, if you do that, the the capacitor must discharge through the connection to the distributor and then through a cable to the plug - it can work, but the cables have to be near 0 ohms or it dissipates all that potential.

                    It's also more bulletproof to have a dedicated diode to each plug.
                    Aaron Murakami





                    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
                      yeah, that's not what I asked.
                      I keep going back in my head to the video of Peter Lindemann at a conference demonstrating how by simply by adding a diode, the dynamic of how the circuit performs is altered rather dramatically, making the plasma event rather spectacular in comparison.
                      There was no T-cable, no MSD box...power on, power off & spark, repeat; Simple and elegant.
                      Have you stripped your ignition down to the basics to replicate that?
                      Not sure what you mean about stripping it down to the basics any farther than what has already been done?
                      The capacitor system of connections works great on my 1995 Honda Accord but kills the ignition on my 1996 Tacoma pickup. Like Aaron mentioned earlier, there must be some kind of problem with the igniter circuit in this pickup? I'll bet if I swapped everything over to my Honda (MSD, coil and diodes) that it would work like a charm on the Honda! So something is completely different in the ignition wiring on the pickup that isn't obvious for this type of conversion??

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by rokan View Post
                        Not sure what you mean about stripping it down to the basics any farther than what has already been done?
                        The capacitor system of connections works great on my 1995 Honda Accord but kills the ignition on my 1996 Tacoma pickup. Like Aaron mentioned earlier, there must be some kind of problem with the igniter circuit in this pickup? I'll bet if I swapped everything over to my Honda (MSD, coil and diodes) that it would work like a charm on the Honda! So something is completely different in the ignition wiring on the pickup that isn't obvious for this type of conversion??
                        Bingo! That's what needs sorting out so you can apply the mod appropriately, right?

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
                          That is my original innovation on the plasma jet ignitions. However, that is best for bench tests as the HV output goes to a single spark gap.

                          In a car, if you do that, the the capacitor must discharge through the connection to the distributor and then through a cable to the plug - it can work, but the cables have to be near 0 ohms or it dissipates all that potential.

                          It's also more bulletproof to have a dedicated diode to each plug.
                          Of course bulletproof and reliable/repeatable are best, Aaron, but rokan is trying to get it to WORK first. Right now all that's been happening is throwing darts over shoulders hoping to hit a bullseye - rokan's not even sure if the dartboard is hung in the traditional manner. The design can be modified to suit the application, based on the specifics of the application...which nobody has for this vehicle at the moment.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
                            Of course bulletproof and reliable/repeatable are best, Aaron, but rokan is trying to get it to WORK first. Right now all that's been happening is throwing darts over shoulders hoping to hit a bullseye - rokan's not even sure if the dartboard is hung in the traditional manner. The design can be modified to suit the application, based on the specifics of the application...which nobody has for this vehicle at the moment.
                            If you do it with a diode from + of coil directly to the top of the HV output, then you will cause a plasma discharge between the hv and each plug connection in the distributor cap as well as the plug.
                            Aaron Murakami





                            You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
                              If you do it with a diode from + of coil directly to the top of the HV output, then you will cause a plasma discharge between the hv and each plug connection in the distributor cap as well as the plug.
                              Are you saying I should try 1 diode from the coil positive to the coil wire that goes to the cap?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by rokan View Post
                                Are you saying I should try 1 diode from the coil positive to the coil wire that goes to the cap?
                                Not sure what you mean by coil wire that goes to the cap.

                                The only thing that does make sense as far as how to hook up your system is in the diagram I posted.

                                You said it wouldn't even run that way, which means that Nology doesn't know what hv polarity their coil actually outputs. If they did and the HV output is actually positive, then the diagram I posted showing the diode direction would be correct and it would work.

                                I would recommend doing the diode test that Gary explained. You have to know if those diodes are good or not.
                                Aaron Murakami





                                You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                                Comment

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