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  • so, how'd it go?

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    • Well I just stopped at Summit yesterday and picked up a new coil like Gary is using a Msd Blaster 8222 but I haven’t gotten a chance to hook it up yet. The reason for the different coil was after talking to Msd they said that the Street Fire 5520 works best with there coil that’s .5 ohms or more, and they said that the Pertronix III maybe heating up and cause the misfire so I figured I would just give it a try to actually see if it could possibly be the problem. I now Aaron is using the same Pertronix III coil I have without problems. The only other thing I’m going to do is try to separate the wires incase they might be putting out some kind of electrical interference between themselves.

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      • Hi Jeremiah,

        Are we still talking about your 14HP Kohler engine, or are you now talking about this on your car instead?

        I was wondering if someone could help me out with creating better spark with a Typical battery points and condenser/capacitor ignition system on a old lawn tractor
        I do not want to put a msd box on it because that system would probably cost me more than the tractor lol. Could I use a 20kv diode like Peter did in the video on page 1 of this thread. Thank you Jeremiah
        It’s a 14hp Kohler

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        • Yes Gary the 14

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          • Hi Jeremiah,

            Just curious, is this a modified K321? Pulling tractor? Cub Cadet?

            Besides the ignition, what other mods have you done to the engine? Is the Pertronix Ignitor 1 made specifically for this engine, or did you have to adapt a different one and somehow connect it to the crankshaft? Would love to see a photo of what you're working with.

            As for the misfire problem would you describe it as an intermittent total loss of ignition or rather as random, sporadic, events only lasting one or two revolutions at a time? If your plug was badly worn in a short time, you may have gone too wide with the plug gap? What heat range plug are you using and is it the correct reach? Is it a projected tip plug?

            What kind of plug wire are you using? If you said before, I don't remember what you said.
            Last edited by Gary Hammond; 06-08-2019, 08:54 PM.

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            • My Plasma mkIII Cordon Rouge is here:http://www.vwsyncro.eu/p/blog-page_34.html

              Click image for larger version

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              4 ampere 380v pure current.

              The 3 and the 4 channel diode banks cannot handle the huge 4(+) m.m. gap of my kinked 90° surface discharge spark plugs, since the voltage is raised above their limit, (although they are working well with the standard NGK 1.3 m.m. gap).

              I am working to overcome the above problem, as well as, problems with the sync(h)ronization of the two plasma units, problems with EMI/RFI emissions, (since the tries to ground the cable shielding must not include the tv cables physical aluminum shield, the arc is so strong that is grounded through the shield!).

              Extra shields, extra units, (6 amperes is possible with the existing setup), absolutely precise advance adjustment on the road, (by the insight and the ear), decisions about the correct height of the spark plug ignition height point, protection against overheating if the 555 transistors malfunction, protection against water, decisions, decisions, decisions...

              The difference between the initial 2A current vs the 4A current of the new Double Plasma, mkIII, Cordon Rouge
              module, is not theoretical, at all, it is very present and, hopefully, it will be seen in my next video.


              The Syncro Heresy
              Last edited by Hellenic Vanagon; 06-09-2019, 04:03 AM.
              The Syncro Heresy

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              • Gary, I’m running a magnet crank trigger pickup off the shaft end with no other engine mods. Also I’m using a Granatelli wire and a Pertronix III .3 ohm coil with a plug gap of .035 or .040 which is standard for these plugs.

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                • everything works fine except when you connect the MSD box...MSD suggests the Pertronix coil has too low of an impedence on the primary:
                  sounds to me like you need to hack the MSD to swap out the cap, and my gut instinct says you'll have to go higher on volts and lower on Farads than stock to balance things out...or rather than swapping it out, adding another of the same in series with the original. big help for me was to look at the wiki page on Farads - the energy equivalencies...if you're a math guy.

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                  • Pulse Jet and proper plasma ignition. Plasma ignition works!
                    We have been experimenting with Aaron's plasma ignition system with our new pulse jet engine coupled with tesla valves used in the correct way. The plasma ignition makes a huge difference in the ability to burn whatever gas or fuel we use. Testing before and after using the plasma ignition shows an extreme difference in the intensity of the explosions, the explosions are faster and louder. The interesting thing is when we add just the right amount of water to the mixture, the power is again intensified leading us to believe there is a large amount of energy coming from the combustion of the water after it is split into hydrogen and oxygen.
                    Here is a link to the pulse jet.
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaUfAs3MADo

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                    • what happened to the exchanger coil in the "high power" portion of the video?
                      (the coils work better when the flows oppose each other - it looked like you had yours reversed from this)

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                      • The video was thrown together, we planned to turn it up even more but the tesla valve melted over time so had to find some older footage of it running on higher settings for the video, unfortunately it didn't have the heat exchanger installed. Here it is running with the heat exchanger, we show it on slightly higher settings, and is before the valve was completely destroyed. https://www.facebook.com/jeremiah.fe...6230802244898/ We will be adding aluminum tesla valve in a couple days so we can turn it all the way up. Also we will show temperature's.

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                        • Gaps in series, (scroll down please): http://www.vwsyncro.eu/p/blog-page_34.html

                          The Syncro Heresy
                          The Syncro Heresy

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Hellenic Vanagon View Post
                            Gaps in series, (scroll down please): http://www.vwsyncro.eu/p/blog-page_34.html

                            The Syncro Heresy
                            That's quite the blog/adventure! Your spark plug research is particularly impressive. I have Torquemaster resistor plugs in my vehicle, and they have had a positive effect on how the engine runs even with a gap that is 2x what the manufacturer specifies.

                            While you call them lambda sensors, we call them oxygen sensors on this side of the Atlantic (and possibly elsewhere); I recently installed one of these (https://eagle-research.com/product/e...r-efie-device/) on mine and am seeing rather impressive results. You seem to already have a circuit in place (from the factory!) to balance the Manifold pressure readings, so this will help fine-tune your fuel delivery more, based on lambda.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
                              That's quite the blog/adventure! Your spark plug research is particularly impressive. I have Torquemaster resistor plugs in my vehicle, and they have had a positive effect on how the engine runs even with a gap that is 2x what the manufacturer specifies.

                              While you call them lambda sensors, we call them oxygen sensors on this side of the Atlantic (and possibly elsewhere); I recently installed one of these (https://eagle-research.com/product/e...r-efie-device/) on mine and am seeing rather impressive results. You seem to already have a circuit in place (from the factory!) to balance the Manifold pressure readings, so this will help fine-tune your fuel delivery more, based on lambda.
                              Thank you very much!

                              The Torquemasters may be better without the resistors, try it if the resistors are not a must for your system.
                              They work better than the conventional J strap spark plugs because:

                              #1 With 2x gap take advantage of the "coil voltage reserve", as you can see here, (second row, second graph):
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                              #2 They do not have the very restrictive ground strap.
                              #3 They emit energy at 360° at the horizontal axis vs the 180° of the surface discharge type.

                              On the other hand, the surface discharge spark plugs offer better contactivity, since the arc prefers a surface discharge and they are an industry
                              standard.

                              The Eagle research EFIE seems as a must and I am considering it.

                              As for the lambda or oxygen terminology, both are Greek words, λάμδα - οξυγόνο, so both are correct equally, don't worry.


                              The Syncro Heresy
                              The Syncro Heresy

                              Comment


                              • My Torquemasters have resistors, because my research has indicated that my ignition coils seem to function best with somewhat of a resistive load on them. The factory specifies ignition cables with an additional resistive load, but I put the Granatelli zero-ohm wires on to ensure that most of the energy from the coil goes to that larger spark gap, so I've basically reduced just cable losses. For more than 2yrs/60k km, I've had no troubles with the factory ignition like this. in fact, since I put the EFIE on, the radio interference noise that some people complain about with these cables seems to have largely disappeared - perhaps because the air/fuel charge is less rich, and the ignition energy doesn't have as much vapour to pass through/ignite?
                                You're welcome, and yes, as far as I'm concerned the EFIE is indeed necessary to prevent overfuelling when excess oxygen is detected by the sensor. Between that circuit and a similar one to yours on the intake (MAP), I was able to get my vehicle to idle (roughly! I backed my aggressive adjustments off until it smoothed out again) about 150 RPM lower than what the computer does without modification, and my fuel consumption is down or fuel economy is up ~20% (or more) depending on how you look at it. a very powerful modification for the price.

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