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Thread: Cop improvement using generator coils

  1. #1

    Cop improvement using generator coils

    Hello all, I just built my 2nd ssg using the book's instructions. it's a 7filar coil and the circuit is the same as the book suggests. i tuned it as good as i could and i am getting COPs of around 0.7. i have read a few posts here about using generator coils to support the motor coil, and i would like to ask some advise on how to do it... all help is greatly appreciated. thanks to all who manage this forum, to john bedini, and to the people who are working hard on this technology.

    cheers

    carlos

  2. #2
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Galvis View Post
    Hello all, I just built my 2nd ssg using the book's instructions. it's a 7filar coil and the circuit is the same as the book suggests. i tuned it as good as i could and i am getting COPs of around 0.7. i have read a few posts here about using generator coils to support the motor coil, and i would like to ask some advise on how to do it... all help is greatly appreciated. thanks to all who manage this forum, to john bedini, and to the people who are working hard on this technology.

    cheers

    carlos
    Carlos, please tell us what you are using to get your cop figures. with the circuit from the book you should be getting cop of 1 plus mechanical..... some questions:

    primary draw?
    freespin time of the rotor with coil removed
    battery size?
    is the coil litzed?

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  3. #3
    hi tom, primary draw is around 850Ma, freespin is exactly 1m 50s, though it's not a bike wheel, its a wheel i made with 50 cds stacked together, it's pretty heavy with the magnets on... i use 5 brick ceramic magnets, and i cpuld observe the virtual south being formed. the batteries are 5ah 12V... i don't know what litzed means, i did constructed it exactly as the book says, with the wires twisted, trigger is #23 and motors are #20... it's 8filar. I don't know if the tuning is perfect but it's the best i could do, the rotor is spinning at 2100RPM, if the Amp draw goes over 900ma, it starts to slow down. one thing i know is affecting me (which i'll fix as soon as i get the tuning right), is that i have the circuit on protoboard... its easier to change resistors and replace transistors, of which i have toasted MANY. i know you're gonna jump on that one, i know it should be soldered as close as possible with as little wires as possible and use thick wires for he battery. i'd love to send you pics, but i have no camera, it used to be my iphone, but its gone... lost it in my trip to mexico. i'd say the only difference with the book's instructions is the wheel size, even the frame is the same design, only smaller. thanks a lot for you reply

    cheers

    carlos
    Last edited by Carlos Galvis; 03-08-2013 at 05:11 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Galvis View Post
    hi tom, primary draw is around 850Ma, freespin is exactly 1m 50s, though it's not a bike wheel, its a wheel i made with 50 cds stacked together, it's pretty heavy with the magnets on... i use 5 brick ceramic magnets, and i cpuld observe the virtual south being formed. the batteries are 5ah 12V... i don't know what litzed means, i did constructed it exactly as the book says, with the wires twisted, trigger is #23 and motors are #20... it's 8filar. I don't know if the tuning is perfect but it's the best i could do, the rotor is spinning at 2100RPM, if the Amp draw goes over 900ma, it starts to slow down. one thing i know is affecting me (which i'll fix as soon as i get the tuning right), is that i have the circuit on protoboard... its easier to change resistors and replace transistors, of which i have toasted MANY. i know you're gonna jump on that one, i know it should be soldered as close as possible with as little wires as possible and use thick wires for he battery. i'd love to send you pics, but i have no camera, it used to be my iphone, but its gone... lost it in my trip to mexico. i'd say the only difference with the book's instructions is the wheel size, even the frame is the same design, only smaller. thanks a lot for you reply

    cheers

    carlos
    when you can please build a bike wheel. you will see a difference.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  5. #5
    [QUOTE=Carlos Galvis;6380.... i have read a few posts here about using generator coils to support the motor coil, and i would like to ask some advise on how to do it... all help is greatly appreciated.
    [/QUOTE]

    Hi Carlos,

    I am presently experimenting on that issue and regarding to your datas you wrote here i see a problem.
    The rpms are too less - you need a minimum of 5.000 (my wheel runs on ~4000rpm with 8 magnets) to get
    a peak voltage of 14 V on a generator coil with 4500 turns. My magnets are neos, if your's are not (as i think)
    you need much more windings.

    just for information

    Dieter

  6. #6
    WILL DO TOM.... do you think that the protoboard is affecting the COP a lot, o just a little?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by hobbyrobotik View Post
    Hi Carlos,

    I am presently experimenting on that issue and regarding to your datas you wrote here i see a problem.
    The rpms are too less - you need a minimum of 5.000 (my wheel runs on ~4000rpm with 8 magnets) to get
    a peak voltage of 14 V on a generator coil with 4500 turns. My magnets are neos, if your's are not (as i think)
    you need much more windings.

    just for information

    Dieter
    hi, im aware of this, i'm using a 4 filar coil and the files are connected in series..... together i can get around 15VAC at 2100 RPM. this wheel is pretty heavy, so the torque is good, i can put a nice iron core in there.

  8. #8
    Hi Tom and everyone else... just have one more question, is there a known explanation on why the bike wheel can get the COP higher? is it the number of magnets? weight? diameter? it's effect on the coil? i saw on one of the old bedini dvds him saying that the rotor could be anything as long as it has a certain mass to it. i did notice on my scope i was getting around 3 spikes per magnet pass, also there are more spikes when the wheel is just speeding up.
    another thing i want to point out is that i improved the coil... before i had it on a thinner spool so it bulged a little on the sides, it looked more like a sphere, now its perfectly straight and properly spiraled, cylinder shape... the difference was huge! i'm beginig to see why is it that you guys insist so much on following instructions closely... i was seeing only one very well defined spike, the RPMS went up to 3500, thats 1400 more than before.... also the charging sped up, didn't have time to do a whole COP test run, because of what im going to tell you next.

    so, speaking about following instructions closely, the tape that i used to wrap the magnets was insulating black tape, i had duct tape on top of that before so nothing happened at that time, but the duct tape was making friction against the core, so i removed it. result? a magnet snapped and cut through the tape and hit the frame, the whole thing just flipped over and left a huge dent on my table. the shaft was bent like 20 degrees... left me kind of shaky, had that magnet hit my head, i wouldn't be here telling you this, so let it be a warning for all building these machines.

    thanks for all the support, cheers
    carlos

  9. #9
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Galvis View Post
    WILL DO TOM.... do you think that the protoboard is affecting the COP a lot, o just a little?
    yes I do.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  10. #10
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Galvis View Post
    Hi Tom and everyone else... just have one more question, is there a known explanation on why the bike wheel can get the COP higher? is it the number of magnets? weight? diameter? it's effect on the coil? i saw on one of the old bedini dvds him saying that the rotor could be anything as long as it has a certain mass to it. i did notice on my scope i was getting around 3 spikes per magnet pass, also there are more spikes when the wheel is just speeding up.
    another thing i want to point out is that i improved the coil... before i had it on a thinner spool so it bulged a little on the sides, it looked more like a sphere, now its perfectly straight and properly spiraled, cylinder shape... the difference was huge! i'm beginig to see why is it that you guys insist so much on following instructions closely... i was seeing only one very well defined spike, the RPMS went up to 3500, thats 1400 more than before.... also the charging sped up, didn't have time to do a whole COP test run, because of what im going to tell you next.

    so, speaking about following instructions closely, the tape that i used to wrap the magnets was insulating black tape, i had duct tape on top of that before so nothing happened at that time, but the duct tape was making friction against the core, so i removed it. result? a magnet snapped and cut through the tape and hit the frame, the whole thing just flipped over and left a huge dent on my table. the shaft was bent like 20 degrees... left me kind of shaky, had that magnet hit my head, i wouldn't be here telling you this, so let it be a warning for all building these machines.

    thanks for all the support, cheers
    carlos
    lightweight large diameter rotors with mass at the perimeter help to store kinetic energy at the diameter of the rotor. reducing electrical energy required to move the rotor.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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