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Thread: "Enhanced Generator" from JPKBook

  1. #71
    Hi julesp, have not tried to charge the input battery with this setup yet.
    More focused on swapping batteries and observing any decrease or increase in overall battery charge.
    I have not even tried a load across the charge battery, as shown in the pdf from patrick kelly, though would be nice if that works as claimed, we shall see.
    peace love light

    Also, with this parallel coil wiring, I'm seeing a little gain of the overall battery voltages.
    Where as with the previous series connection, I was observing about the same gain, though in the opposite direction as a loss of voltage.
    Last edited by SkyWatcher; 09-22-2018 at 02:45 PM.

  2. #72
    Hi Jules,

    Quote Originally Posted by JulesP View Post
    Hi Gary,

    You mean like the attached? .......... Jules
    Yes. That's exactly how I did it.

    For my bridge rectifier do I need 1000V rated diodes or can I use the IN5408?
    I think the 1N5408 diodes are rated at 1000 volts? They should work just fine.
    Gary Hammond,

  3. #73
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    Back Popping Measurements

    Hi Gary and co,

    I have tried the two approaches to delivering some charging to the drive battery with the following results.

    Firstly, using the double FET method to isolate the line from the battery to the top of the coils did not function as, despite a simultaneous pulse from the transistor collector reaching both FETs to turn them on, the additional one did not conduct to initiate the coil current. It may be something very simple or perhaps I need a different type of FET to trigger the + line in that position. Whatever it is I decided to put that aside for the time being and focus on the 'back popping' option.

    I measured some nice HV pulses of the same magnitude and resulting capacitor voltage as from my earlier tests. I am assuming then that the back emf pulses being generated in these two isolated coils (from the litzed three coil) result from the collapsing field in the remaining single coil and not from the rotor magnet moving away. As such I would expect the pulses to be of similar voltage and magnitude to those I measured before the circuit modification. However, as soon as I connected the HV from the main coil group back up to either the drive battery or any additional batteries to charge, and in any configuration (Generator or Classic/Radiant mode), the pulses from the two isolated coils disappear (like in the second pic)

    I am wondering if this is because once the HV from the main coil group is being 'assimilated' by one or more batteries then that loading alters the way induction occurs in the 'back popping' pair of coils. If that is even remotely so then I can't see how any HV pulses are going to reach the drive battery to try and offset its discharge. I attach a pic of the setup where I see good pulses.

    I'm sure your much greater experience will come up with an answer.

    Thanks

    Jules
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by JulesP; 09-24-2018 at 04:22 AM.

  4. #74
    Hi Jules,

    Quote Originally Posted by JulesP View Post
    Hi Gary and co,

    ................

    I am assuming then that the back emf pulses being generated in these two isolated coils (from the litzed three coil) result from the collapsing field in the remaining single coil and not from the rotor magnet moving away. As such I would expect the pulses to be of similar voltage and magnitude to those I measured before the circuit modification. However, as soon as I connected the HV from the main coil group back up to either the drive battery or any additional batteries to charge, and in any configuration (Generator or Classic/Radiant mode), the pulses from the two isolated coils disappear (like in the second pic)

    I am wondering if this is because once the HV from the main coil group is being 'assimilated' by one or more batteries then that loading alters the way induction occurs in the 'back popping' pair of coils. If that is even remotely so then I can't see how any HV pulses are going to reach the drive battery to try and offset its discharge. I attach a pic of the setup where I see good pulses.

    I'm sure your much greater experience will come up with an answer.

    Thanks

    Jules
    Yes, you are correct. The pulses you are collecting from the two isolated coils result from the collapsing field in the remaining single coil and not from the fleeing magnets. They are all magnetically coupled on a single core.

    The reason you are not able to harvest the pulses from the other four coils is probably because they are driven by the same FET that is powering the master coil and using the drain lead to attach the three parallel collection diodes to.

    The main coil needs to have it's own FET for switching and the other four coils need a separate FET with the paralleled collection diodes attached. You don't want a collection diode attached to the drive winding of the master coil, as this will steal the pulse from the two isolated windings you want to harvest with the bridge diodes for " back popping" the run battery.
    Gary Hammond,

  5. #75
    Hi Jules,
    your results make sense in your circuit as shown. The oscilloscope is a very high impedance load (basically an open) and the batteries are an extremely low impedance load (basically a short) so when you hook up the batteries you short the coil across that battery. The problem is not in the circuit, but in the measurement technique. Try replacing the oscilloscope with a battery and checking for charging, which is what you really want anyway.

    The same applies to checking for charging when applying the back popping signal to the drive battery. you should measure the voltage decrease over time without the back popping, then measure the voltage drain of the drive battery over the same length of time with back popping, if you have less drain then your back popping is giving you a charging effect. The disadvantage to this is it is not a quick measurement and takes a significant amount of time to establish your baseline and then observe for charging effects.

    Michael

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hammond View Post
    Hi Jules,

    The main coil needs to have it's own FET for switching and the other four coils need a separate FET with the paralleled collection diodes attached. You don't want a collection diode attached to the drive winding of the master coil, as this will steal the pulse from the two isolated windings you want to harvest with the bridge diodes for " back popping" the run battery.
    Well it's more a case of when the other coils are attached to batteries the two back popping coils loose their HV but I think that amounts to the same thing and for the reason you state. So the attached circuit is a better option? I guess when you did this you had a separately triggered main coil too? Also both FETs would need to come on precisely together or that would interfere with the attracting forces on the rotor.

    Jules
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by JulesP; 09-24-2018 at 08:41 AM.

  7. #77
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    Hi Michael,

    Sounds like a reasonable approach but first I would need to do what Gary suggests since the moment I connect the HV line from coils 3-7 to the drive or an additional battery, the back popping HV signal disappears.

    When using the voltage drain on the drive battery to assess if it is being charged at all I would need to be on the flat part of the battery charge profile in order for it to be a fair test when done sequentially. Under load my drive battery is now about 11.7 which I'm guessing is starting to fall off the lower end. I'm assuming the 'flatest' part of the charging profile is between 12.0 and 12.8V when under load.

    Jules
    Last edited by JulesP; 09-24-2018 at 09:15 AM.

  8. #78
    Hi Jules,

    Let me ask a question. Since E=IxR and say your battery is .5 ohm what current is needed to see what voltage?

  9. #79
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    1 volt would require 2 A. Are you referring to the voltage drop from the internal resistance? I was addressing that my drive battery is getting flat from use with no charging and I might need to get it to a batter state of charge first.

    Jules

  10. #80
    Hi Jules,

    Next question is if your oscilloscope is 1 Meg ohm what current is needed to see what voltage?

    Your pulses are not going away they are being absorbed by the battery. It does not matter if it is the charging battery, back popping the drive battery, or both. That is why you need to check for charging, because you won't see them even if they are there, on the oscilloscope with the battery hooked up.

    Michael

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