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Thread: Bedini SSG Multi-Coil

  1. #41

  2. #42
    Hi to all

    Is it posible that battery doesn boil???? I found this when I opened battery and I saw that at 15,4 V batery doesnt boil mybe few bubles in a minut which is I think negligible??

    with regards Stane

  3. #43

  4. #44

    Really nice spike!

    Hi Stane and others

    @ Stane - You will need to stick a price on that data logger, as I for one is looking for one !

    Glad you got the battery up to 15+ volts, what did you change?

    A newbie question:
    Do you connect your O/scope probe between the diode and the collector of the transistor? and the ground wire of the probe to the Primary negative or the Secondary negative ? because each gives you a different reading.

    Stane, can you please measure the volts on your trigger wire for me, and what base resistor are you using, I think the magnets that I'm using is not strong enough?

    Thanks

    Virus

  5. #45
    Hi prinsloo

    First thanks on coment second what I chaned hmmm let me think first I conected all buses together like tom C sugested second I chaned rotor from normal north pol to super north pol (whic magnets I used you can see on one of pictures I seended)then I figured out what size of rotor do I want for max performance. my first rotor was litle havier(3-4 kg secon on is for 1/5 lighter and with first roto (normal north)i could reach 16,10 - 16,16,25 V but amperage draw was hier.

    I conected o scope probe between diode and colector of tr.
    Ground is conected to - of primary battery all base resistors are 68,4 ohm I Think you can see that on some other pictures in this threet

    With regards Stan

    P.S Energizer is not tuned jet the distance betwen the coils and rotor are not the same they are all in 4- 6 mm apart

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by axxelxavier View Post
    @Patrick, first of all, thank you for your reply. I did enjoyed watching your videos, and this it's actually a replica of your work, but with only a single transistor, and with smaller wires.
    About "ckt" - you mean capacity? I use a 10 uF/50 volt electrolitic tantalum capacitor. Schematic it's the same - I use a 2,2 Megaohm/2Wat pot, in series with one 100 ohm /2wat resistor and with a 12 volt/100 mAmp light bulb (to observe the current from the base of the transistor). Transistor is D209L (from a ancient computer power supply), but the oscillator worked also with a ST13007. Coil is twisted bifilar: 0,5mm trigger/0,7 mm power, ~27 m. length, with a R60 welding rod as a core (it worked also as a aircore, but frequency it's much higher... not sure if it's better or not). Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope, so all the setup it's somehow... intuitive.
    One of the problem was the diode, I was using a 1n4148 instead of 1N4007 (on BE junction of the transistor), and now, after replacing with the 1N4007 diode, it's working, also, with battery, not only with light bulb as load.
    The dump charge, depending on frequency, is between 15-20 volts.
    I'm not sure if the dump (charge) should be more frequent, and with lower voltage, or more rare, and with higher voltage.
    Anyway, when discharging frequency it's rare, the mAmp draw it's quite low (2~10 mA), but battery charges forever. With higher frequency of the discharge, charging it's a lot faster, current draw it's also higher... but I'm not sure if it's a radiant or a conventional charge.
    In your videos, it's seems like even for slower frequency discharging capacitor, voltage spikes looks to be quite strong - maybe 60-80 volts?
    What it's your opinion on this?
    I did miss this, getting use to the forum, people creating new threads for the same subject (not you) then I forget where I asked a question and sometimes never come back

    I'm sure I am misunderstanding your question. My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.
    My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about.
    Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?
    your setup seems to be working quite like I would expect from the looks of it.
    I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.

    try tuning to that point, remove power, measure the ohms on the pot and replace your pot with one that is slightly above that measurement with a higher watt rating.

    Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery. Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.

    here is an interesting fact about my setup, it does not charge my 4.5Ah batteries very well, but it charges the life into my 210Ah batteries. So play around with that thought a bit. Hope some of this helps.
    kind regards,
    Patrick

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    I did miss this, getting use to the forum, people creating new threads for the same subject (not you) then I forget where I asked a question and sometimes never come back

    I'm sure I am misunderstanding your question. My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.
    My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about.
    Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?
    your setup seems to be working quite like I would expect from the looks of it.
    I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.

    try tuning to that point, remove power, measure the ohms on the pot and replace your pot with one that is slightly above that measurement with a higher watt rating.

    Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery. Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.

    here is an interesting fact about my setup, it does not charge my 4.5Ah batteries very well, but it charges the life into my 210Ah batteries. So play around with that thought a bit. Hope some of this helps.
    kind regards,
    Patrick
    Just noticed you mention 2watt pot, 2watt should be fine.
    also, what diode are you using from collector to charge battery?
    in addition :-) I'm assuming all the basics, you are using good short fat cable from ckt to batteries and when you are doing the runs, you have no meters inline or attached to the system...
    cheers,
    Patrick

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about. Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?
    Yes, this what I am talking about, the cap across the trigger resistor, which control the dumping through the base of the transistor.

    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.
    Yes. My pot it's already toasted, so I have to buy another one. I'll try with a smaller one, at least to test the scale of the oscillation with other values.

    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery.
    I did tried, with a 200 uF capacitor, and the dumps was stronger, the current draw was bigger, and the frequency dumps was more rare. After some parallel tests, I did observe that the oscillator without capacitor mod, only with diode, it's charging more faster, comparative to high frequency and low voltage dumping, from lower value capacitors.
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.
    I did change the coil with a longer one (~750-800 turns, ~42-45m), a trifillar coil 0,5 mm magnet wire, one wire for the trigger and 2+3 (0,5+0,5 mm) as power coil. With reversed trigger, and only the diode (1n4007) to the base on the MJL21196 (no capacitor), I've got a 3,2 Amp/hour battery charged in ~10 hours (200 miliamp current draw from primary, ~120-130 miliamp charging current). The neon showing a very brightly purple light (I do have the sensation it will be burned any second). Comparatively with my previous transistor used here (D409L), it's a huge difference....
    A few more words about this. Actually, this configurations, with a single good transistor - MJL21196, looks to be more powerful than my 3 x ST13007 transistor oscillator, thought I still have to test a lot on my new coil, 8 twisted wire (4x0,7mm+4x0,4mm coil), last night wounded. One thing it's for sure: after adding the diode to the trigger to base wire, the light of the protection neon bulbs are visible more intense, which also, from my observations, it's translated in to a better radiant output (?).
    Regarding my previous post, about recognizing radiant energy - an easy way to test presence of radiant energy, I think, it's to connect a neon bulb to the output, if it's lighting, it's showing the high voltage spikes...
    Last edited by axxelxavier; 10-14-2012 at 02:34 AM.

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    Just noticed you mention 2watt pot, 2watt should be fine. also, what diode are you using from collector to charge battery?
    in addition :-) I'm assuming all the basics, you are using good short fat cable from ckt to batteries and when you are doing the runs, you have no meters inline or attached to the system...
    cheers,
    Patrick
    I don't know if I mention that, but my 1Mohm/2 wat pot it's toasted, so I will try with whatever I have around me.
    About diode from collector, I'm using a normal 1N4007, which I think it should be enough either for the small current charge and for the ~90-200 Volt spikes.
    And yeah, I'm using at least 2x20AWG wires in parallel, twisted, I think maybe 15 cm long (at 3XST13007 transistor oscillator, I'm using 3X20AWG wires); usually, all my meters are hooked up in the beginning to the power source, because I want to know the current draw, and after I'm convinced there are no fluctuations, I remove my analog ampermeter.
    About power source, I'm using a 12volt/2amp stabilized LM350; I removed, thought, the protection diodes on the output, because of the voltage drop, so I'm using only a 220Volt/1amp fuse, which I hope it's enough to protect my circuitry from short-circuits.
    Best regards,
    Teodor

  10. #50
    Hi to all

    Can Anybody tell me if there is any document on this bedinisite where is tolt how to restore the old battry???
    I would like to restor few baterys that few months ago were good and now they are bad only 11,8 volts?

    with regards stane

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