Bedini RPX Sideband Generator



Monero XMR

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Thread: Bobs 1st 3D Project

  1. #41
    Hello group,
    I have changed the circuit back to a single SSR and am using the genny to supply the trigger again, how it was originally. I blew a fuse with the other configuration and suspect that one of the SSR's had shorted out but I need to take the bus bars off of the array and test them to confirm. I liked the way it ran originally so rather than muck around with the smaller relays I decided to put the large one back at least for now.

    Today I am posting a chart and video of a full discharge/charge on a garden battery. It is explained in the video but I will give the basic info here in text also.

    The chart shows where at first the battery is fully charged and I just gave it a quick spin up. After that I did a load test on the CBA pulling at 1A down to 10.5v. That is more like a C10 rate for such a small battery, in hindsight it may have been better to do it at a C20 rate because it sort of skews the results but this is just for fun anyway. So at the end of that the CBA reports 5.444 AH were consumed. Then I charge the battery back up in mode 1. The machine is set to draw about 1A in mode 1. I had to go to bed before it was finished charging so by the morning it had already been fully charged and was just wasting energy and keeping the back at 15.8 at which time I shut it off. I may do this type of run again and try to monitor things a bit closer and use a C20 rate on the discharge but for what it's worth I am happy with the results of this run. I have also charged much bigger batteries with the same setup but the garden is something everyone is familiar with.




  2. #42
    Hey Bob
    Great video, i really like how it triggers the ssr from a genny coil, it's like getting "a little extra" out of your machine.
    Keep up the great experimenting.

  3. #43
    One problem I am having with this design is the axle/bearing. The coils keep pushing the wheel horizontally out of the field. I tried wrapping some tape around the axle but it still happens at times. I think I am going to redesign it to use half inch axle and bearings which I have used on several of my other machines. Those bearings have a keeper screw that prevents this issue. I really like the size and spin on the current setup but cannot find any bearings that have the same keeper screw in this size.

    I might post a video a bit later. I have changed the wiring a bit on the machine. I now have 2 sets of 4 on the power coils. The first four are in parallel and spaced every other coil and then the second set are in parallel to each other also but the two sets are in series. This increased the resistance and lowered the draw a bit. Now I am pulling about 4ooma in mode one and about 1100ma in common ground. Charging is still fantastic, especially on smaller batteries like the garden tractors.

  4. #44
    If you have room for them (probably take as much space as the tape) you could use a sleeve on the shaft with set screws. (see pic)


    Or if you have the tools to do so you could take an off the shelf brass bushing and drill and tap for a set screw.
    It's always a good feeling when you can lower the amp draw and still maintain the charging.
    great experimenting, look forward to the video.
    Last edited by Brian McNece; 07-03-2017 at 12:27 PM. Reason: wasn't finished before

  5. #45
    You could also print some snug fit bushings quickly to whatever size you want...

  6. #46
    Good suggestions guys but it won't help with the way this thing is currently. See the bearing is buried in between the frame and the bearing plate that I made. The plate has a counter sunk ring for the flange bearing to sit in and then that is bolted to the frame so if you can imagine it is sandwiched between the frame and the plate but does not stick out on either side. Anything I would try to put on the axle would then rub on the frame or the other side would rub the mounting plate. I had tried some tape because it was thin enough to get in there without rubbing anything but it's not doing such a great job.

    Here is a pic from the software of the bearing mount plate. So imaging a flange bearing pressed into this and the flange sits even. That side then is bolted to the frame.

    bearing mount.JPG

  7. #47
    can you cut a straw? cut to length you need then slice the remaining part lengthwise and cut some more to fit. if it works, use some glue...

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    can you cut a straw? cut to length you need then slice the remaining part lengthwise and cut some more to fit. if it works, use some glue...
    That could work, might have to try that. I eventually want to share the plans for this machine though and not everyone would be able to put fixes in place. I want it to be as simple for someone to put together and have a working machine. I have also thought about reversing my coil current. If it is pushing away as it is right now then perhaps it will draw it in if I reverse it.

    I am not claiming any OU here although it may be possible. What this machine does represent is a way to take a very small input and charge pretty sizable batteries. It also could be used as a desulphator for monthly maintenance on systems that use other charging methods or recovery of junk batteries.

    I do believe that the power grid is going to fail, be it yellowstone, a crazy nation attacking, the passing of Nibiru, or a blast from the sun. There are many things threatening the power grid and although you could never run a home on these things you can make life a bit easier in the aftermath by providing light or fans, water pumps or radio. That is why I want to share a model that will be simple to put together and is easily repeated.

    Thanks for the input guys

  9. #49
    you can also get various diameter brass piping from local hardware store and cut to length. Glue in place might work... however, as you say redesign for future print would be best.

  10. #50
    So I have made modified plans to use a half inch axle and the bearings that have the keeper screw. I am in the process of printing the new one out now. I took he chance to also thicken up my coil holders a bit.

    I did reverse my current on the coils because I realized I had them in repulsion by accident. To be clear what I mean is if I were to momentarily connect the coils the way I had them they would push away the magnets on the wheel. I changed the polarity and checked again and the magnets pulled into the coil. In realizing I had it backwards I also started to realize some things about why the timing I was using was set how it was. It had seemed to run in an odd position from what I am used too but since it is a new machine and smaller coils and also nine of them around I had dismissed it as just being normal for this machine. Once I fixed the polarity of course teh timing needed to change.

    This has everything to do with the imaginary south pole that Mr. Bedini spoke about and I should have recognized it sooner but at least I did find my mistake. I mean don't get me wrong the thing ran very well in repulsion but it was not what I was shooting for. The axle slipping horizontally is far less of an issue now but I still prefer to just change over to the bearings that will hold it in a fixed position so we are going to go forward with the new design. This first one has served as a great prototype and shown me some flaws that needed to be addressed.

    I have made a short video to present the imaginary south pole, many of you know this but many more probably do not. I'm not posting and sharing for all of the experts out there but rather to help those who may need help understanding.


    I will be working on version two of this build over the weekend.


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