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Thread: Bedini SG Monopole with Capacitor Discharge

  1. #51
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    Hi Ren

    Sounds like a plan!..., I'm still not going to give up trying to figure out what the hill I'm doing wrong, just a quick question N0:6 on the 555 what is the go with that?,is the 6 & 2 suppose to connected.
    PS, i will send you my ph. privately.

    Cheers,
    George

  2. #52
    yup, connect the 6th pin to the 2nd pin. If you want to make it easy, use a little cradle, so you dont damage your 555 from overheating.

  3. #53
    Senior Member Ed_Morbus's Avatar
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    Hello everyone
    Is there a replacement for H11D1 in europe they ask 25 Euro to deliver.

  4. #54
    its only an optocpoupler, look at the specs of the H11D1,
    and find similars,

    try these

    optocoupler 4N25, input 1,1V max 1,5V, CE 30V
    - 4N 25 - OPTOKOPPLER bei reichelt elektronik
    - 0,25 euro

    SFH 615A-3 :: Optokoppler, Hersteller OSRAM Optoelectronic ERSATZ für H11D1
    - SFH 615A-3 - Optokoppler, Hersteller OSRAM Optoelectronic bei reichelt elektronik
    - 0,29 euro
    - http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...shay/83671.pdf
    - CTR 100 - 200 %, DIP-4
    - input: 1,25-1,65V 60mA
    - CEO 7,0V, 50mA

    in my arduino cap dump..arduino steers the optocoupler SFH 615A-3

    where are you from? europe? country?

  5. #55
    Senior Member Ed_Morbus's Avatar
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    MrRonsen thanks for replay
    I am from Niederlande [Holland]

    What is important
    D11H1
    Collector Current = 100mA
    Emitter to Collector Voltage = 7v
    Collector Emitter Voltage = 300v

    SFH615A
    DC forward current = 60mA
    Emitter to collector voltage = 7v
    Collector Emitter Voltage = 70v
    Last edited by Ed_Morbus; 05-25-2013 at 06:59 AM.

  6. #56
    collector to emitter voltage.. is on the side
    where you have your 7812 voltage regulator 12V!
    so need no 300V collector emitter voltage.. 70V are enough..
    D11H1 -input: DC forward current 60mA - same like SFH615A
    D11H1 -output: DC collector current 100mA - the SFH615A has 50mA..

    for me it works

    SFH615A : http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...shay/83671.pdf
    D11H1 : http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...shay/83611.pdf

    other answers out there?

  7. #57
    Senior Member Ed_Morbus's Avatar
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    MrRonsen Thanks.

  8. #58
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    Hi Ren

    Did that and i still have my neon lighting up it's hooked up across the C&E I have loaded some photos2013-05-26 10.29.35.jpg2013-05-26 10.26.42.jpg2013-05-26 10.32.49.jpg2013-05-26 10.38.53.jpg2013-05-26 10.40.59.jpg

  9. #59
    Hi George,

    Time to solder your circuit up methinks. Usually if the neon lights up there is a problem with the output path, i.e. there is no battery connected or in this case, no capacitor. You seem to have the cap and bridge on your prototype board but I would review the connections of that area. Happy to give you a hand to solder up something more permanent and get rid of all the excess lengths which dont help much. But basically, if your cap is filling nicely you should be alright.

    What happens if you remove the capacitor and connect a battery straight to the terminals of the bridge? Does that stop the neon?

    Regards

  10. #60
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    Ok I've got it working, I've changed the 2N3584 with a MJE3055T everything seems to be running cool, I've also replaced the 51K with a 360K, whenever I used the 3.3uF 450v the neon comes on, so I put a 2200uF 10v in parallel and it stopped that from happening.

    I am keen to see if I can get two for one, I am using a 7.2ah on the front and a 7.2ah & a 5ah on the back-end, they all are slabs.
    Can anyone tell me what would be necessary for me to charge a 130ah and more.

    Cheers,
    George N.

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