I just bought some rubber magnet sheet.
Ill cut it to size and stick it to the both ends of the rotor and test Aarons findings.
The field is quite weak on the ends so the rubber should be enough to turn the field back and not magnetize the bearings.
Looking great! I'm not sure I follow you on the magnet tape but I'm sure we can talk more about that when you start playing with it.
I can see how you could change this around quite a bit to experiment but I like the 1st version a lot. I'm thinking down the road you could make a Newman styled coil around it and make a second piece that has a big heavy flywheel joining to the shaft with a U-Joint. Might not be worth all the trouble but the design you have made lends itself to many possibilities. Keep it up man, just fantastic!
The magnet tape is a little side project, I can easily take it on or off for testing, might be just enough to repel the field back.
I also bought a do-nut ceramic that fits over the shaft that ill play with too.
The shaft and magnets already weigh a couple of kilos that should be enough for now.
There is a stub axle going through the back end which can have a gear put on it if need be.
I spun the shaft up to 2000RPM's with the magnets and coils in place.
Its generating 1.8V.
Interestingly I put some steel touching horizontally across the back of the core rods turning the setup into a horseshoe magnet with 2 coils on it and it generated 2V.
Later down the track I will be experimenting with pulsing diagonally opposite coils, horse shoe coils, individual and all at once.
I'm really interested in the diagonally opposite pulses to see what happens when you pulse one corner of a magnet ala Johnson corner spin.
Being as they are such long magnets the physical separation might show something interesting.
Originally Posted by BobZilla
Looking good JD! (Except for those scruffy looking coils )
Switching of the segments, each triangle is bridged.
Last edited by Deuis; 03-10-2017 at 04:49 PM.
Reason: further clarity
Rheostat, power supply and cap bank added.
Commutators wired in and small amount of testing completed.
Current conducting through the coil well and generating plenty of pull.
At 40V the sparks through the brushes are larger than I expected.
Could you take a pic from directly over the top? I was trying to follow all of the wiring and there are some bits that cannot be seen. It looks like your top of coils is your negative and I see a fat cable that I assume is a bridge from the front coils in the pic back over to the neg on the back coils and then the cap ties in to that? I would like to see these commutator connections a bit better too, anyway not trying to boss you around ;-) just can't make out the whole thing.
It looks like you have the resistance set low in the pic with room to add much more, is that right? Curious how much current your pulling.
I wouldn't be too worried about the wiring Bob its very simple.
I will do a schematic once the circuit is right.
The commutator isn't quite right yet either.
The back commutator is a slip ring.
The front has two sections of 4 segments 180 degrees apart wired to the slip ring, this turned out to be wrong and needs re-wiring.
The test was more for the timing of attraction, as wired the commutator is trying to pulse with the magnets vertical on one segment and dead on with the other segment. This was due to having 2 brushes and 2 segments giving a 90 degree switch pattern not the 180 I thought.
The Rheostat is 320ohm, far to high for this machine that's why its wound right down.
Resistance is set at 20ohms to allow 1A through just to see what the coils were going to do.
I ramped the voltage up just to see what would happen but then again it was only 40V.
I could feel the power difference between the two but its still only trivial until the repulsion circuit is wired in and the rotor is turning.
Originally Posted by BobZilla
New arrangement for the commutator with the slip ring in the middle.
On the far side is 4 segments bridged 180 degrees apart. (attract)
on the near side is 6 segments bridged 180 degrees apart out of sync with the far side. (repel)
This leaves 1 segment clear for switching backward and forwards between front and back.
The slots are 5mm thick so I had to shave the brush back 1mm so that it was the width of a slot.