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Thread: Kromrey Disclosure - Bedini SG - Beyond the Advanced Handbook by Peter Lindemann

  1. #291
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    just lucky that it did not kill the Transistor, and just the killed bulb ....
    An Incandecent bulb would have high RC time constant so it is a RCD snubber circuit to protect a semiconductor device like the transistor in our case here, R would be used as a bleeder resistor that drains down accumalated Charge in the connected Capacitor.
    but these are in the collector circuit.
    now, the light bulb being in the trigger circuit (to the base circuit of the transistor),if blows out would mean that the base would also be hit hard!! I use a 2 watt 630/470 Ohm base resistors in my SSG circuits to ensure they withstand the heat dissiapation.. (they run warm to the touch) I think one can use the light bulb in place of the branch(Global) resistor feeding the other resistors.
    so a 15W light bulb is appropriate in this position.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Teaching can endure a quest for knowledge..but Learning solves an anomaly'

  2. #292
    Hello all,

    I'm back with some questions and pictures about my setup with some things happening that is different than I read. I am using two new deep cycle batteries with a PL rotor and setup from Teslagenx and 8 transistor kit. I am still only using one drive coil, #20 trigger and 4 #18 for my experiments. Right now I am closer than ever to getting this thing going with some experimentation to see what happens. I started out adjusting the coil to find correct spacing for my setup with highest speed and lowest current draw. I think I am at the right spacing of approximately 1/2", similar to what Peter mentioned in the video. Earlier I played with spacing as mentioned earlier here and had two pulses. Now I got it to one pulse consistently, even at startup since I monitor everything from the beginning with scope connected to one coil output. Now to try and add pictures so I can talk about what I have seen so far.
    P6090004_01.jpgP6110014.jpg

    P6120006.jpg

    Hope this works, first time doing this here and hope pics display in order as I entered them.

    First pic is at highest speed of 780 rpm after adjusting trigger with set coil distance. One pulse that looks similar to brodonh pic but with smaller spike. The scope for this pic is in AC mode and you can see what the scope settings are too. 20v/div shows something positive here in terms of the spike voltage. Then I was curious at adjusting the trigger setting and noticed that the spike started to get bigger with the pulse staying the same. I did not know which way I was turning the pot but ended up at the end of pot and now there was just the 100 ohm base resistor with the highest spike! Doing this, the rpm dropped to 530 rpm, but the pulse is very stable. This must be one of the "sweet spots" of the setup to get a single pulse with a high spike because the current draw at low rpm's is about 2.7 amps where it is 1.2 amp at fastest speed with single pulse! The last pic is of what the battery see's at the + term.

    Over the last few days, I had my setup running for a while and then stop it to come back the next day to start it up and see what happens on the e-scope. Starts up at the very beginning as a single pulse with a changing PW which is normal as frequency increases and the spike is the same amplitude as seen in the pic right off the bat!!!

    I need to find the "sweet spot" for lower amp draw to continue with project with same results as seen in the pics if not better.

    I'll be back...
    Last edited by rdvideo; 06-12-2018 at 10:46 PM. Reason: wrong picture

  3. #293
    Quote Originally Posted by rdvideo View Post
    Hello all,

    I'm back with some questions and pictures about my setup with some things happening that is different than I read. I am using two new deep cycle batteries with a PL rotor and setup from Teslagenx and 8 transistor kit. I am still only using one drive coil, #20 trigger and 4 #18 for my experiments. Right now I am closer than ever to getting this thing going with some experimentation to see what happens. I started out adjusting the coil to find correct spacing for my setup with highest speed and lowest current draw. I think I am at the right spacing of approximately 1/2", similar to what Peter mentioned in the video. Earlier I played with spacing as mentioned earlier here and had two pulses. Now I got it to one pulse consistently, even at startup since I monitor everything from the beginning with scope connected to one coil output. Now to try and add pictures so I can talk about what I have seen so far.
    P6090004_01.jpgP6110014.jpg

    P6120006.jpg

    Hope this works, first time doing this here and hope pics display in order as I entered them.

    First pic is at highest speed of 780 rpm after adjusting trigger with set coil distance. One pulse that looks similar to brodonh pic but with smaller spike. The scope for this pic is in AC mode and you can see what the scope settings are too. 20v/div shows something positive here in terms of the spike voltage. Then I was curious at adjusting the trigger setting and noticed that the spike started to get bigger with the pulse staying the same. I did not know which way I was turning the pot but ended up at the end of pot and now there was just the 100 ohm base resistor with the highest spike! Doing this, the rpm dropped to 530 rpm, but the pulse is very stable. This must be one of the "sweet spots" of the setup to get a single pulse with a high spike because the current draw at low rpm's is about 2.7 amps where it is 1.2 amp at fastest speed with single pulse! The last pic is of what the battery see's at the + term.

    Over the last few days, I had my setup running for a while and then stop it to come back the next day to start it up and see what happens on the e-scope. Starts up at the very beginning as a single pulse with a changing PW which is normal as frequency increases and the spike is the same amplitude as seen in the pic right off the bat!!!

    I need to find the "sweet spot" for lower amp draw to continue with project with same results as seen in the pics if not better.

    I'll be back...
    Someone can correct me if I'm reading this wrong, it looks to me like you are getting around 900 volt spikes. The scope is set for 20 volts per line and you are using a 10X probe. Your scope is showing 4 1/2 divisions which is 90 volts multiplied by the 10x probe. Looks good to me. Keep adjusting for the lower amp draw. Great job.

  4. #294
    Sorry Brian, that is not how it works....

    If the Scope is set to a 10X probe, and the probe is set to 10X, than it will read 20V per division.......

    The 2nd pic shows a 10x scope setting, DC coupling, and 20V per division.

    If you measure the spike only from the top of the wave form as normal, it measures aprox 60V

    Where the whole wave form P to P measures aprox 90V

    This is where i really like my 200Mz PicoScope, because i can set the measurement lines to see the exact voltage's for each part of the wave form....
    Last edited by RS_; 06-13-2018 at 08:43 PM.

  5. #295
    Hi all,

    I added the extra 1N4007 diode to the base diode for a two diode drop at the base according to RS setup. The only difference it made was to increase the current draw from 2.7 amps to 3.6 amps with nothing else changed and the scope showed nothing different. The setup starts with a single pulse as before. I have not changed anything else in my setup; doing one thing at a time and taking notes. I have on order the 3060 diode to see what that does to the setup before anything else. I guess it's time to play with coil distance and see what happens. Any suggestion are welcomed...

    rdvideo (Richard D)

  6. #296
    Hi Richard,

    Adding the extra base diode did not increase the Spike...? any time you increase the current, you should have a higher Spike.
    use a jumper across one of the diodes on each transistor, and while looking at the scope with the probe on a collector, see how the wave form changes as you jumper diodes...

    you should have 1n4001 diodes on the base.....

  7. #297
    Thanks for the reply RS,

    I'll have to get some on order, missed that in your PDF. Have to try this and see what happens.

    I have slowed down right now on my project because of a water leak between the well pump and the house. The leak is in the worst place you can think of, under my back deck! Now I have to rip apart my deck so I can fix my water leak and it's in the 90's here.

    Happy Fathers day and enjoy the heat in the Midwest...

    Richard D.

  8. #298
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdvideo View Post
    Thanks for the reply RS,

    I'll have to get some on order, missed that in your PDF. Have to try this and see what happens.

    I have slowed down right now on my project because of a water leak between the good pump and the house. The leak is in the worst place you can think of, under my back deck! Now I have to rip apart my deck so I can fix my water leak and it's in the 90's here.

    Happy Fathers day and enjoy the heat in the Midwest...

    Richard D.
    Wish you all the same !!
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Teaching can endure a quest for knowledge..but Learning solves an anomaly'

  9. #299
    yea I know the feeling... i have a water leak under the concrete of my green house, and it will require digging a 4' deep hole to get to it.... So i just turn off the feed from the mains when not needed, till i can get to it.... and then the house AC died yesterday afternoon.... at least it is going to be mostly cloudy and mid 80's today. i will call and get someone out on Monday.... all ways something messed up and needing fixing......
    at least we will be moving to a new place soon......

    Happy Fathers Day to all.....

  10. #300
    Hi RS,

    Just thinking about you mentioning about using a 1N4001 diode at the base of the transistor instead of the 1N4007 diode as supplied with the 8 transistor kit that JB put together. The 1N4001 diode is the same diode as the 1N4007 except for the current and voltage. So I see why there was no difference in performance in the circuit. There must be something else going on to see the difference between the two diodes. I will try the 1N4001 diode when I receive them and the MUR3060WTG diodes for the output and replace the 100 ohm base resistor with a 10 ohm resistor and play from there.

    The o'scope I use can do the same thing to measure the amplitude but I did not turn the function on and thought anyone in this thread knows how to use an o'scope. Sorry for not turning on the function because I thought it was no needed.

    rdvideo

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