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Thread: New Medium Sized Machine

  1. #121
    Today I am posting a video showing the machines current configuration. I did a run on a typical garden battery. As I mentioned previously I am trying to bring this machine back to it's original goal of having no modern transistors or silicon chips. I elaborated on this earlier on in the thread but basically it is a challenge to myself to see if I can make a charger with simple parts. Who know if someday a sun flare or an attack of some sort might fry all of the electronics, I want to be prepared if need be and this is how I gain knowledge. It is also quite interesting to learn different ways of harvesting.

    Anyway here is a chart from the run:
    clackMechRelay.JPG

    And the video:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0mhwWxwJzj8e9EL3x9

  2. #122
    Quote Originally Posted by BobZilla View Post
    Today I am posting a video showing the machines current configuration. I did a run on a typical garden battery. As I mentioned previously I am trying to bring this machine back to it's original goal of having no modern transistors or silicon chips. I elaborated on this earlier on in the thread but basically it is a challenge to myself to see if I can make a charger with simple parts. Who know if someday a sun flare or an attack of some sort might fry all of the electronics, I want to be prepared if need be and this is how I gain knowledge. It is also quite interesting to learn different ways of harvesting.

    Anyway here is a chart from the run:
    clackMechRelay.JPG

    And the video:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0mhwWxwJzj8e9EL3x9
    Hi Bob,
    Nice work on this!
    I'm curious where you have your timing on this and how you came to it...
    That is, in relation to the magnet, where does the coil "turn on" get energized?
    and where does it turn off?

    I can't remember, have you shown us a scope shot of this one? My mechanically switched builds always scope different than the silicon switched ones :-)
    Thanks,
    Patrick
    timing.jpg

  3. #123
    Quote Originally Posted by min2oly View Post
    Hi Bob,
    Nice work on this!
    I'm curious where you have your timing on this and how you came to it...
    That is, in relation to the magnet, where does the coil "turn on" get energized?
    and where does it turn off?

    I can't remember, have you shown us a scope shot of this one? My mechanically switched builds always scope different than the silicon switched ones :-)
    Thanks,
    Patrick
    timing.jpg
    Hi Patrick,
    I have been changing some stuff around today on the machine and will probably make another video to show, I have it running a lot better now than it was. I want to answer your question in the context of that last run though.

    The polarity of the coils is setup in repulsion. I had the time wheel set so that after TDC the reed would close and energize the coils, so magnet approaches core, goes past the core and then the reed switches and the coil pushes the wheel away. Maybe about 10-15 degrees past TDC. I will say though that I don't think the actual magnet is the only thing involved here. You know what I mean I'm sure with the imaginary south and all.

    Anyway I will try to make another video tomorrow and I will show more details.


    *edit*
    Oh I forgot to mention I do not have a scope.

  4. #124
    Hello group,
    A few posts back I shared a paper on metal rectifiers. I got my hands on some selenium rectifiers and am testing them in place of diodes right now ;-)

    Here are a few shots of the rectifiers. I am showing six single plate rectifiers which I think would be rated around 20v and low current, these have been installed on my machine. Also are some examples of how full wave bridges were constructed with four plates. I think these were probably 35vAC.

    Selenium_rectifier_1.jpg

    Selenium_rectifier_2.jpg

    Selenium_bridge_1.jpg

  5. #125
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobZilla View Post
    Hello group,
    A few posts back I shared a paper on metal rectifiers. I got my hands on some selenium rectifiers and am testing them in place of diodes right now ;-)

    Here are a few shots of the rectifiers. I am showing six single plate rectifiers which I think would be rated around 20v and low current, these have been installed on my machine. Also are some examples of how full wave bridges were constructed with four plates. I think these were probably 35vAC.

    Selenium_rectifier_1.jpg

    Selenium_rectifier_2.jpg

    Selenium_bridge_1.jpg
    Selenium Rectifiers are High-Voltage Rectifiers typically used in Cockroft -Walton Voltage Multiplier circuits..
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    ‘Mass is the Spatial density of Matter (Particle) and the Temporal Intensity of Space (Field)’.

  6. #126
    Hello group,
    Today I am posting a run I did on a garden battery with the new setup using the selenium rectifiers.

    Here is the chart from the run:
    clackMechRelay_2.JPG


    And a video of it in progress:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0mhwaVqG3xq7tx6ksH

  7. #127
    I rewired the machine to put all of the components down on the deck. It's better to bus the relays close and even instead of how I had it. I also took the mode one / common ground switch out and made it common ground all the time. The big diode is removed. the only diode on this thing now is the small one I have looped back for the reed switch on the trigger circuit.

    BZ_relay_deck_1.jpg

    BZ_relay_deck_2.jpg

    BZ_relay_deck_3.jpg

  8. #128
    Quote Originally Posted by BobZilla View Post
    Hi RS,
    I know that you know what your talking about and I appreciate your insight and respect your knowledge, but I also know what I have been doing for quite some time. Let me explain why what you said does not apply at least to how I do it with SSR.

    The diode that I take the spike from ( the one that normally would be coming off the collector on a MJL) is at the junction of the bottom of the coil going into the relay. Pretty much the same as it would be on a normal MJL setup. So because of this the coil collapse and the spike are not going through the relay anyway. When the relay opens you basically have the primary pos fed through the coils with a diode at the end before the switch, the spike jumps out that diode to the charge battery when the switch opens. Hopefully you see what I mean. In other words the switching is after the spike diode on the way to the primary negative. I would shoot a video to explain this but I actually have that machine torn apart at teh moment. I do have this other video that was showing something different but you can see how it is setup.

    I am with you on the MJL's going negative for sure, I remember Mr. Bedini talking about that so no dispute there at all. There is really no dispute about anything other than the way I lay out the circuit an internal diode on the SSR would not matter anyway because once it opens I am not using anything on the other side anyway, the coil and the ooutput diode are on the input side. Belive me I am not one of these jokers who does not understand the spike and I am not charging with current and calling it a Bedini circuit, I know how to harvest properly.

    Here is that other video just so you can see how it's wired. I'm only talking about the first few min, after that the video was about the a genny coil.
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0mhnTSgd3040LGH3aW

    Bob
    I am intrigued with the video about your machine running with the ssr, i got an ssr to try with my new machine i am working on. Any advice? Or things to look out for? Thanks for sharing the videos.

  9. #129
    Hi Brian,
    I don't have any special advice really. I'm sure you saw the explanation of how to wire it but if your not clear or have any questions feel free to ask. Do you know the rating on the SSR you are using, mine was 40A but that is way overkill. I have run as far down as a 5A but because of the pulsing nature of the circuit I would not go too low, basically at least double of whatever your machine runs at or more.

    Will you be using a separate timing wheel like I did? If not just play around with the timing because it's a little different than the usual way but I'm sure you can get it no problem. One thing I highly recommend is that you use a separate battery for driving the SSR trigger side. It wil not use much juice at all so you can use something like a 9v or a few AA or whatever you have but I do recommend something separate from the main power.

    Anyway I'm sure you will be fine, let me know how it turns out.

    *Edit*
    I was going to add here that you can sometimes use a regular trigger coil to activate the SSR but it really depends on the machine. I prefer to have a separate timing wheel and a small battery as I showed but I have run it by connecting a normal trigger wire. If you can get enough voltage for the SSR trigger side from induction then it will fire that way. If I were you I would just try it how I did it and then perhaps try a normal trigger later on if you like but I wanted to mention that I have done both.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 01-19-2017 at 05:33 AM.

  10. #130
    Bob
    Thanks for your response and willingness to help, my ssr is rated at 25 amp 0-200 vdc. I am planning to wire it up just like yours initially, after i have it working properly there are a few things i would like to try with it. I am planning on a timing wheel with reed switches. (One of the things i want to eventually try is the dual reed switches like Patrick had shown a little while back.)




    Quote Originally Posted by BobZilla View Post
    Hi Brian,
    I don't have any special advice really. I'm sure you saw the explanation of how to wire it but if your not clear or have any questions feel free to ask. Do you know the rating on the SSR you are using, mine was 40A but that is way overkill. I have run as far down as a 5A but because of the pulsing nature of the circuit I would not go too low, basically at least double of whatever your machine runs at or more.

    Will you be using a separate timing wheel like I did? If not just play around with the timing because it's a little different than the usual way but I'm sure you can get it no problem. One thing I highly recommend is that you use a separate battery for driving the SSR trigger side. It wil not use much juice at all so you can use something like a 9v or a few AA or whatever you have but I do recommend something separate from the main power.

    Anyway I'm sure you will be fine, let me know how it turns out.

    *Edit*
    I was going to add here that you can sometimes use a regular trigger coil to activate the SSR but it really depends on the machine. I prefer to have a separate timing wheel and a small battery as I showed but I have run it by connecting a normal trigger wire. If you can get enough voltage for the SSR trigger side from induction then it will fire that way. If I were you I would just try it how I did it and then perhaps try a normal trigger later on if you like but I wanted to mention that I have done both.

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