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Thread: Growing food with Bedini/Tesla devices powering LEDs

  1. #1

    Growing food with Bedini/Tesla devices powering LEDs

    Hi Everyone

    Growing food with Bedini/Tesla devices...

    I feel it is becoming important for people to be able to grow their own food, and to do so having protection from adverse elements (junk being sprayed in the air, radiation from various sources, and increased bad UV rays). Therefore, one must consider growing food indoors. However, that would suggest providing an artificially welcome environment for them (temperature/ humidity zones, and proper light spectrum, etc).

    I have already experimented with some plants (dwarf lemon and lime, various other food plants) for nearly a year (while I had been convalescing) Using LED fixtures I had built myself. I had fabulous results using 12 volt LED strings (5 meter 600 LED) used in the automotive industry--very inexpensive.

    I had researched that a combination of 6-7 red LEDs to 1 blue and 1 white would be best. My first fixture have only the red and blue, but my future ones will contain white, as well. So, they do work, and very well. This winter, we (my wife is the "plant-whisperer and I am the techie guy) plan to do side-by side tests with various food plants, one in a solution used in hydroponics (kind of a hydroponic variant using plants suspended in plastic tote boxes) and the other planted in our own version of potting soil.

    The LEDs are adhered to 3/8 inch think by 8 inch composite house siding (super cheap) that is 16 feet long, cut into 4 foot sections--each light fixture is assembled on one of those 4 foot sections. I can show anyone interested in building these fixtures in a step by step fashion.

    The trick will be doing this with little or no energy usage, as I do not believe we will always have the grid (solar activity, etc). So, my idea is to build a solid state or wheeled version of Nityesh Schnaderbeck's "Tri-Symetrical Switch" design using John Bedini's technology, to test run 4-6 of these fixtures over this winter.

    The wheeled version might employ low-drag coils such as the one Peter Lindemann demonstrated on the intermediate/advanced SSG at the 2014 conference. I don not know if a solid state version would be viable--Others might know more about that than I do. If there is need for a small bit of solar/wind, that would be better than not being able to use such a technology, even if it is just used to stretch out and/or limit overall energy usage.

    I hope to inspire others to DO SOMETHING, even if it is just something small like this, to become more self-sufficient, and/or to work toward getting off the grid...small steps first...I sort of learned my lesson about BIG things. I have 2 other projects that will be going on concurrently. One involving a 4-coil SS SSG for my big batteries, and a charger for small batteries--possibly another version of your "Tri-Symetrical Switch" idea.

    Nityesh, Gary Hammond, and ANYONE else out there interested, I would greatly welcome your participation/collaboration. Cheers

    James, somewhere in Idaho
    Best regards

    James, somewhere in Idaho

    “So this is how liberty dies…with thunderous applause.”

    ~ Padmé Amidala ~

  2. #2
    I think this is a wonderful idea. JB powers an led with his tesla switch, why not lots of leds. Sounds like you have done some interesting research.

    If JB can power an LED(load) and charge all 4 batteries. Then with a bigger switch you should be able to power lots of leds, while the batteries charge.

    Nityesh Schnaderbeck

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ed_Morbus's Avatar
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    Aug 2012
    Netherlands, The Hague
    Wonderful idea

  4. #4
    Hi James,
    I experimented with this several years ago myself. It can be done and it works very well.

    I want you to consider something here in regards to how you drive the LED's and in what arrangement meaning parallel/series or combination of both.

    You can make 12v strings or buy them and that works fine BUT,, when using Mr. Bedini's circuits you can take advantage of what they provide over any other 12v source. The circuit outputs very low current and very high voltage so use that high voltage. LED's do not require much current so you can drive a large string of them at a high voltage and low current which is exactly what these circuits provide.

    Balance the voltage requirement of each against your output. Say your pushing out 130v well divide that by 2.4v which is what the individual led requires and it means you can run about 54 LED in series, with me on this? Using Mr. Bedini's circuit you can easily provide that voltage at low current from a 12v battery as the source.

    Below is a demonstration of what I am talking about. This video was shot many years ago and originally it was meant as a private video to another member so there are some references in it that are not directed at this conversation but it shows you how I did this with solid state.

    Good luck with your project!


  5. #5
    Thank you Bob, that was great.

    I get what you are saying. Instead of just powering the LEDs with Volts and amps, one could arrange them into groupings that take advantage of the spike. Am I correct on this assumption?

    I see you are using individual LEDs mounted on your own fixture. That would make things easy for what you are talking about.

    Here is a link to the type of strand I am using:

    They run on 12 volts and can be cut down to 3 inch lengths (still running on 12 volts). I think there is a kind of series/parallel circuit in the strips, so one would need to cut them into whatever multiple of 3 inch length they need to be, then arrange them as groups, in series/parallel.

    I had run long parallel strands (soldering together different lengths of red and blue, but that was a royal pain in the rear) the length of the fixtures last time, hooking them up parallel to each other and powering them with recycled PC power supplies. However, I am in the process of building my next ones going sideways across the pieces of siding this time with 6 inch lengths. So, with this in mind, they could easily gang up together in small series groups that are then paralleled over the length of the fixture (8 inches by 4 feet)...say in groups of 8-10 strips, making 96-120 volts--the grouping would depend on the voltage spikes encountered on the oscilloscope. That should do it. Also, due to the circuit within the strips, it would be very difficult and counterproductive (in this case) to cut them down any smaller than the 3 inch 12 volt sections. However, that should not be a problem, since we can just work on multiples of 12--right?

    Again, thank you for sharing Bob.

    James, somewhere in Idaho
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 10-31-2015 at 03:17 PM.
    Best regards

    James, somewhere in Idaho

    “So this is how liberty dies…with thunderous applause.”

    ~ Padmé Amidala ~

  6. #6
    Great Video BobZilla, would you have the circuit diagram for your LED drivers. Nice work

    Nityesh Schnderbeck

  7. #7
    Hi Nityesh,
    It is the normal SG circuit with the exception of moving the trigger bottom from the emmiter bus over to the power windings top side. This provides the current to open the base.

    If you go look at this thread on the second page I did post a picture of the standard SG circuit and drew in the change.

    Ok now I see what your using and I do not think it would work for what I was suggesting. The reason is that it looks like those are 3 LED in series with a built in resistor (per section) to make it run on 12v. Then all along the string those sections are in parallel so that you can keep adding and stay at the 12v.

    It would not work as I suggest because the resistance is already embedded into them, they like 12v and you could not go higher without burning the resistor. I am partly guessing at this so maybe you could do some testing and get around it, just not sure.

    After thinking a bit more about it , perhaps if you did series some sections say like 10 or 12 of them it just might work. I do not like the resistors that would be in there just wasting energy but it is what it is. Just figure that your load needs to be configured to run at about 120 to 160 volts and series them up accordingly.

    The difference between what I am talking about and the strips is that I am literally feeding 130+ volts or so directly to those LED's with no resistance. There is a POT on the circuit side but that is to adjust the circuit before it's output of high voltage low current.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 10-31-2015 at 04:13 PM.

  8. #8
    Hi BobZilla

    Yes, I think you are right. Oh well, I still plan to use these as I got a great deal on buying them in bulk--in which case, I think something like Nityesh's switch design, either solid-state or wheeled (probably wheeled using low drag gen coils) might do it.

    I am getting ready to wind some coils: 3-8 filars with 8 18 AWGs and a 4th one with an additional 22 AWG trigger winding for my BIG battery charger. I have already built a similar 9-filar for a smaller charger, my wife wants one for her small batteries, so I'm winding a coil with 1-26 AWG trigger pulsing 8-22 AWG windings (She uses lots of small batteries), and then the "grow-project" coil(s).

    I have a lot of 18 AWG (too heavy for me to lift now), about 9 lbs of 22, and a pound of 26...plenty of matched transistors, and bunches of other related components. I am in a good place, parts-wise.

    The 4 coiler will have a variation of "Cleave & Michaels" circuit with some "BroMikey" thrown into the mix. The other 9-filar was kind of a mistake, as my wire length contraption failed and I was not able to get a "wavelength" I desired, so it is going to service our car batteries every-so-often (my son says he will help me with measuring wire lengths from now on or until I perfect my length gauge). My wife's little charger will serve as a test bed for proving out my "frequency theories" and for testing circuits for both the large battery charger and the grow-project charger.

    I have built a very nice wire litzing and winding machine, consisting of PVC, bolts, and threaded rods that I will try to get pics of for you all--its of my own design and is quite unique. I think you all will enjoy it and may want to copy/improve on it.

    Anyway, thank you all for your input.

    James, somewhere in Idaho
    Best regards

    James, somewhere in Idaho

    “So this is how liberty dies…with thunderous applause.”

    ~ Padmé Amidala ~

  9. #9
    Hi BobZilla Thankyou for sharing this mod. Now I know how to turn the Tri-Symm Switch into a solid state oscillator, and to power the LEDs, thanks to your mod.

    I can post a schematic, of the Tri-Symm Switch as a solid state oscillator powering LEDs. And then test if it works, I'm sure it will.

    Hi jamesgray3rd I have spent so much time winding coils, your wire litzing and winding machine, it is a very good machine to have.

    Nityesh Schnaderbeck
    Last edited by Nityesh Schnaderbeck; 11-01-2015 at 01:53 AM.

  10. #10
    Hi Nityesh,
    I'm glad that is of some help to you. I have been lurking around some of your posts and would like to get into what your working on at some point but I am currently building a new machine so it has taken most of my time. That method is not my own however, it was Patrick (Min2oly) who first shared it with the group. He also has the CPD mod that can be used with it and the somewhat lager coil in that video actually had that installed. He can elaborate if he wants but basically you put a small cap across the pot and a diode going out toward the base. This charges the cap and as the impedance changes it dumps, giving a good punch to the base.

    Here is a thread where I show a similar charger but with details. This one did not have the CPD though.

    Last edited by BobZilla; 11-01-2015 at 07:48 AM.

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