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Thread: Maximum coil size?

  1. #91
    Les K,
    That is correct, it does make a difference to follow directions, everybody must remember I have been building SG machines since the mid 70's. Things in this machine must be matched for it to perform properly. When I say 130 feet of wire that is what I mean and not one inch more. Transistors also must be matched for performance. 21 magnets works out to be the best on the bike wheel. Batteries must also be checked to make sure they will float at 16 volts without damage. Les you can make a network with a capacitor to convert the radiant spike on the back battery so you can trade batteries if you want without the cap dump. Good advise Les in what your saying.
    John Bedini
    My homepage: http://johnbedini.net

  2. #92
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Les K,
    That is correct, it does make a difference to follow directions, everybody must remember I have been building SG machines since the mid 70's. Things in this machine must be matched for it to perform properly. When I say 130 feet of wire that is what I mean and not one inch more. Transistors also must be matched for performance. 21 magnets works out to be the best on the bike wheel. Batteries must also be checked to make sure they will float at 16 volts without damage. Les you can make a network with a capacitor to convert the radiant spike on the back battery so you can trade batteries if you want without the cap dump. Good advise Les in what your saying.

    For everyone, this is with a bike wheel with a 16 inch diameter.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  3. #93
    John B, your comment "you can make a network with a capacitor to convert the radiant spike on the back battery so you can trade batteries if you want without the cap dump"...curious. Could you elaborate perhaps with an example of a diagram video or something? I usually just do as you said and charge the primary through an inverter.

  4. #94
    This is great information John,
    I still don't understand the operations of the energy surrounding this device. Even though I was able to see it visibly for a short time. What I have learned by experimentation is that the coil has an amount of energy collected, and how we take that energy out can be done in several ways. I tried an extra winding to a FWBR. I then had a silly idea to try several strands as outputs to see if I would get more energy exiting the system from more than one source. It did not work that way. I have also noted on my SG6 that the larger part of power input is taken by the coil with the trigger strand. It appears that the other coils use very little current compared to the coil with the trigger. Is that right? If so what that means to me is that the energy collected is not distributed so much as a rating per coil as it is the entire group, and if so there is still a lot to figure out here. I think this is where I am struggling to understand how two coils in parallel can have one hot and one cold. The connection is here and I am seeing a few things new, but I can't say I understand yet.
    John K introduced me to how the ends of the coil are out of Phase using a sniffer coil and that is what is creating one end north and the other south. But now I have been working out what is going on directly center of the coil. There is energy at the null in the center of the core. If I measure the length and width of the core and locate precisely the center I think we would call this null point "zero point energy" but I am not finished experimenting. Any guidance would be appreciated.

    Thanks John
    Les

    Quote Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Les K,
    That is correct, it does make a difference to follow directions, everybody must remember I have been building SG machines since the mid 70's. Things in this machine must be matched for it to perform properly. When I say 130 feet of wire that is what I mean and not one inch more. Transistors also must be matched for performance. 21 magnets works out to be the best on the bike wheel. Batteries must also be checked to make sure they will float at 16 volts without damage. Les you can make a network with a capacitor to convert the radiant spike on the back battery so you can trade batteries if you want without the cap dump. Good advise Les in what your saying.

  5. #95
    I built as closely as I could to Ralph's build. I used a larger rotor at 9 inches and my branch resistors were 47ohm at each base, and for each four strands a 22ohm. Three watt 12volt bulb with a 100ohm pot to tune with.
    Four strands for each coil #18awg. The trigger strand was also #18awg. I wound my coils on my homemade coil winder that counts both feet and turns. I kept both the same on all coils. this takes winding very carefully because if you wind sloppy in the least the turns will be different given the same length. I did my initial tuning by using a dual trace scope and hooking one probe to the first coil and the second probe to the second coil.
    I would spin the rotor and overlay the signal on the scope. when both were matched in amplitude and phase while mechanically adjusting the coil position then I knew the coil was tuned and would move on to the next.
    It appears the super pole does not have as much torque to the shaft, but does appear to put more energy back into the charge battery.
    Hope this is helpful

    Les

    Quote Originally Posted by Prinsloo View Post
    @ Lesk

    Would you be willing to share some TOP-SECRET information re: your 6SG.

    1. Rotor diameter?
    2. Magnet spacing on your rotor, 2 or 2½ magnets spaces or more between the magnets?
    3. How many power wires per coil or transistor per coil?
    4. Wire length per coil?
    5. Wire gauge?
    6. Base resistance?
    7. Trigger resistance?
    8. Coil/core to magnet spacing/distance?

    I have a ¼ built 8SG, and replaced the trigger and base resistors with the values JB recommend on a earlier post for the Bike wheel SG, it made quite a difference. Even more things to test and learn now.

    LesK - Sorry for asking your pedigree here, but more information can help us make better decisions !

    Thanks

    Theunis

  6. #96

    How close can you space S/North magnets?

    Hi LesK

    Yes, thanks, every bit of information helps, (us newbies are sitting on the sideline watching you old guys playing ball), until the penny drops this side, that only happens when information is shared.


    What is the closes you can space S/north magnets on a rotor? You need to know to determine your rotor sizes. ?


    How do you connect the scope to the coils, (sorry I mean where on the coils) to align the coils? (I tried it once, blew the fuse and was afraid to try again.)


    I have only 2 coils running at this stage, I had my resistor set up 22 ohm on the bases, 47 ohm each split to between the 2 coils, had some joy with charging batteries don’t have new batts at this stage so just charging and not really taking COP notes yet.

    I read JB post on getting everybody on the same page with the recommended SG specs. I have a 190mm (7.5 inch) rotor with 8x S/North magnets; magnets are spaced ±2¾ magnet spaces apart. I have nothing to lose so change my resistor on the bases to 470 ohm and 22 on the trigger, JB mentioned ¾ inch core to magnet gap, I thought it was too much, (remembering Ralphs vid, made the gap ±3 mm), charging the batteries was even faster than before.

    After a while I remember the ¾ inch gap JB mentioned, and I pulled the core’s out about ±1 cm, (there is definitely a sweet spot too much or too little and you mis it) and WOW the R/spike jumped up from about 45-55v to just over a 100v, still using the same 1.5 amps, rotor speed ± 125 Hz, (don’t know how to calculate R.P.M. from that?), rotor weight 3.8 kg. But this is really charging much much better than ever before, again no COP runs yet but visibly it seems/feels much better, (I can drop the amps but then the rotor speeds up and my magnets aren't glued in yet, just strapped up)

    I stopped the machine and the magnets have absolutely no interaction/attraction with the cores, I know it won’t start up from here . . .

    But?

    How do I fine tune this now and not lose this awesome charging capability, go up on the base resistance?, how much?, and get to push the cores in more, where to from here?

    Is there a how to guide on " SG Tuning for Dummies " somewhere, I really need this,

    Sorry for the long story chaps, just wanted to share.

    Theunis
    Last edited by Prinsloo; 11-17-2012 at 06:30 AM.

  7. #97
    Prinsloo,
    Sounds like you have been doing a great job. I don't have any idea why you would blow a fuse. I did this before any other circuit was connected. Just the coil all alone. So all you would be looking at is the induced voltage from the spinning rotor. I understand there is now in publication an approved book by John Bedini on the SSG. I don't know where to purchase this book yet but it sounds like it will be distributed by Peter Lindemann.
    This sounds like the perfect answer for all of us who have an interest in these devices. Looking forward to more info myself.

    Les

  8. #98
    Hi Tom C.,

    When you say 16" diameter, you're talking about the actual size of the rim without the tire, correct? I see people selling 16" rims and they say that the actual rim size is smaller, that the 16" refers to the tire size and not the rim size. So the actual diameter of some of the rims that are listed as 16" may only be 12" or 13". To get an actual 16" diameter rim we'd probably have to get what they call a 19" or 20" rim, as far as I can tell anyway.

    thanks,

    Robert

  9. #99
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Darrah View Post
    Hi Tom C.,

    When you say 16" diameter, you're talking about the actual size of the rim without the tire, correct? I see people selling 16" rims and they say that the actual rim size is smaller, that the 16" refers to the tire size and not the rim size. So the actual diameter of some of the rims that are listed as 16" may only be 12" or 13". To get an actual 16" diameter rim we'd probably have to get what they call a 19" or 20" rim, as far as I can tell anyway.

    thanks,

    Robert
    measure across the diameter of the rim, it was 16" this is not extremely critical, a 17 will work also, it is about magnet spacing, you need enough between magnets to ge the strong scalar south between the norths.
    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  10. #100
    Hi Tom C.,

    Ok, thanks. So we're looking at a space of 1.52" between the magnets for a 16" wheel. For a 17" wheel it would be 1.67", which is about an extra 5/32". The key info then would that we need 1 1/2" between magnets to get a good scalar south, at least for this size wheel.

    I've got what they probably call a 24" rim here, with an actual diameter of 20.75" With 27 magnets it would have 1.53" spaces, almost exactly the same spacing as for the 16" wheel. It would be interesting to see if the same spacing is still optimal with a larger diameter wheel, AFTER getting the smaller one to work first, of course.

    thanks,

    Robert

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