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Thread: Double window motor/generator build journal

  1. #11
    h Johnson votrex in a vortex.jpg

    Picture from the book "The Secret World of Magnets" by Howard Johnson

    Ken Wheeler has much to say about it. His book is refrenced and linked to on the notes on Erfinders comments thread under alternative energy.
    Al

  2. #12

    second coil done.

    Just an update on progress. I got the second coil wound. it ended up being 200 turns of bifilar #26 wire. each measures 8ohms but in parallel they measure 4 so it matches the other coil I built. I also made a flywheel...i took a base from a vcr motor (which is not balanced at all) and i filled the cavity with hot glue which allowed me cut and melt the glue as i needed to balance it. I don't mean to toot my own horn but for a hot glue flywheel...the thing spins pretty darn true up to at least 5000, I spun it up with my dremel and only had a minor shake. I did not want much metal around so I used the wire out of twist ties to pull the coil away from the shaft. they are strong enough and if you double them over and run the ends through the loop created you can easily cinch down the coils nice and tight.IMG_20150310_160709.jpgIMG_20150310_160715.jpgIMG_20150310_160750.jpg

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    h Johnson votrex in a vortex.jpg

    Picture from the book "The Secret World of Magnets" by Howard Johnson

    Ken Wheeler has much to say about it. His book is refrenced and linked to on the notes on Erfinders comments thread under alternative energy.
    Al
    Thanks ALN. i understand a lot of the vortex ideas. Honestly I think walter russells' is perfect. keep in mind it may be already understood and just seem wierd to me. But the thing that i found the most unusual is how everything moved "counter" to the way i rotated the magnet...it just seemed backwards! i'll try to make a video to better illustrate what i am talking about.

  4. #14

  5. #15

    update

    Well when I put the magnet on the rotor it was off balance to one side so i have had to cut into the flywheel glue...can't even get it close to how balanced it so im stuck with what I have for now. I extended the shaft out to one side with a bearing support because along with the coils I want to test more on the attraction style motor I have a thread about. The bar on the end is attached to a set screw nut so i can spin it around for different timing and angles from the rotor magnet. what I want to try is use the window motor as normal but when the caps charge enough from the backspike i want to use that to pulse the attraction motor on the end.(thats why o moved the bearing further out). if the coil is not on then there should be no positive or negative force on the bar but when i pulse it it should add that energy to the rotor again and could even harvest the backspike of that maybe...we will see. anyways here are a few pics of it wired up to a very simple 3055 reed switch circuit running from a 5v 2a wall wart. (it needs far thess than 2 amps thats just what i had on hand.IMG_20150315_111647.jpgIMG_20150315_111710.jpg)

  6. #16
    don't have any hard readings...everything is to unstable at full speed because of the wobble from the magnet being off center. but it seems to pull somewhere around half an amp untill it gets up to speed then it levels off slightly below that but i was using a 10 amp panel meter so not very accurate. That's running on 12 volts. it got up to about 1000 rpm and it just shook to much for me to want to push it. so back to the bench to figure out a way to balance this thing. the way i built it i had to slide the shaft through the coil and the magnet and glued the magnet in place. So now i can't just pull the shaft out to balance it i have to do it while its in the coil. Pain in the neck but its all a lesson. on one hand though the torque on this thing seems to match what i have heard about window motors. for drawing as little as it does it has got quite some force behind it.

  7. #17
    Well today has been better. after fighting with the thing for about 4-5 hours this morning, I got everything balanced. spun the thing up and it hit 30,000 rpm if my math is correct. I used a small coil hooked up to my multimeter which has a Hz setting. it climbed to a peak just over 500 Hz which using a normal 2 pole magnet that is 500 revolutions a second multiplied by 60 seconds in a minute equals 30,000 rpm! Also I have the diode from the collector through a neon and if i spin it up then hold the reed in different locations sometimes I can get the purple flash I have seen in coil shorting videos.

    EDIT; math was right but the measurement wasn't...my trigger magnet was adding extra pulses to the readings. i put an isolated magnet on the shaft away from the others and it read around 200 hz which adds up to about 12,000 which i am still happy with seeing as i am only using 1 pulse per revolution untill i get my bedini/cole circuit running. back to the bench!
    Last edited by Bradley Malone; 03-20-2015 at 12:54 PM.

  8. #18
    Tidied up a bit...still looks like wires everywhere, but everything is in its place. I used the connector strip along with the alligator clips so that if I burn out a transistor I just unscrew it and put in a new one. Another thing I change is I separated the bi-filar coil into its separate coils and hooked one up reversed to its own transistor so that I could use 2 reeds and have a bipolar circuit. When I measure the current draw though my digital multi-meter it reads steady at 39 miliamps running from a 12 volt drill battery. If I change the timing to close to the zero point (I mean the point where the poles 90 degrees from the coil plane) the speed is much greater with less torque and draws around 28 miliamps. When I run it at the high speed point the caps stop charging at 12 volts, But when I run it at the higher torque lower speed timing the cap (880uf 250v bank of 3 caps in parallel) charges to 30 volts in a second maybe two and just keeps going. That's my next step is to time the charge rates at the different timing points until I find the best location. I also plan on making something to accurately read the speed. No cash to get a tach at the moment.CAM00270.jpgCAM00271.jpgCAM00274.jpgCAM00275.jpg

  9. #19
    https://youtu.be/b_1rAs01AEs simple video of it running. i have noticed that there is only one spot where the voltage will just continue to climb on the cap. if i get it off that point it just stops at the charge its on thats why after that long i only had 29 volts in the cap because trying to film while holding the reeds i couldn't keep it in the right spot.

  10. #20
    Tom, hoping you can chime in.
    I have read post where you said that the window motors run best when loaded to 2/3 of its unloaded speed. By that do you mean that if you have a generator coil that slows the motor to that speed to get the best results via the generated voltage plus what you get from the CEMF into a cap. or are you saying that loading the motor somehow increases the CEMF into the cap. I can understand the first because loading the motor doesn't change the current much ,if I am correct, so you could load it with a generator without changing power in thus getting more. On the other hand though I see JB load his machines with fans...so i am just hoping to get a bit of clarification on that.

    Another update, I built a small setup with a push button toggle switch, and a double pole single throw relay. The way I hooked it up allows me to use a small bank of 5 x 2.7v 5F super caps, in series to make 13.5volts, as the drive power to run the motor. While the motor is running off the super caps it is charging a battery. When the motor starts to slow down I push the toggle and it flips the relay while disconnecting the battery negative from the positive of the caps and when the relay switches it dumps a fresh charge into the super caps in about half a second and when the toggle comes back out its back to running and charging the battery. i don't have everything tuned yet but when i was doing this The battery started out at 12.99, I would tap the toggle and charge the caps about every minute. The charge would drop the battery to about 12.88 then it would quickly climb back up to about 12.95 then creep back up to 12.99. I did this for an hour and the battery ended up at 12.90. One thing I noticed was at one point in the voltage drop of the super caps while driving the motor it would slow as the voltage dropped and the battery was charging, But it would reach a point where the rate at witch it slowed down ...slowed down (sorry if that's confusing) When it would reach about 5 volts it would maintain that speed longer and it seemed the current draw dropped considerably because it will run at that voltage for while...but it won't charge the battery once it does this leveling out type of thing.

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