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  • #16
    Just to let folks know where we are at with this currently. Matt Jones posted a schematic on the EF thread which included a pulsed DC motor. We're discovering that pulsing the motor gives some good results. I have also wanted to try a couple different things that I will share here in hopes that some others give it a shot also, possibly sooner than I can get around to it, since it may take me a few days. Anyway, put a resistor between battery # 3 and the motor (This is assuming that the charging voltage is coming from battery #1 through the motor to the bad battery) This will slow down the charging of battery # 3. At the same time, connect a load to the motor side of that resistor and the negative of battery # 3. This gives a "no resistor" path to the current to bypass battery # 3, while still leaving battery # 3 in the circuit to cause the current to flow in the first place. I have no idea if it will work. If it doesn't, I will try this same idea on the opposite side of battery # 3.

    Dave

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    • #17
      Hello to you all.

      Hello Mr. Bedini and Mr. Hupp,

      I am honoured to finally make contact with you Mr. Bedini. For over 4 years I read and see things like the Bedini motor and others.
      I am excited about this Bedini motor but cannot reproduce it. I'll probably order in on your website as long it is delivery to Europe.

      I also did some research on HHO. I made a DryCell to prove to myself that what I saw on YouTube was not a bad joke.

      For two days now I watch videos on Crystal Battery. This type of battery seems very interesting, but maybe she does not have enough voltage for my project.
      I am currently working on billboard for my company. The panel had neon tubes behind but I replaced with LED-Strips. The illumination is sufficient in my opinion.
      LED Stripes are made to operate at 12V. I have a homemade power supplied but it delivers not enough amperage. My testes allowed me to feed the panel with 10V 2.4 A. I think enlightenment is already good.

      I saw for a little time the Tesla 4 battery setup and I think your 3-battery-setup. I wanted to ask you if you had the chance to test this setup, but your post answers my question. I test a kind of system last week of four batteries but I feel it does not charge as indicated in the documentation. But I don’t give up

      I just ordered 1kg Alum to try to make a battery like the one you have in your videos. I think it's better to take batteries without acid in it. In any case most natural to me.

      Mr. Bedini thanks for all your work. I hope you will have a very long life and you will continue to show us incredible and unusual things.

      Best Regards.
      David M.

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      • #18
        Mr. Bedini,
        Not many folks are interested in carrying on this research here, so I have been spending all my time on the EF thread, but I always come here to check. I was wondering if you had a formula for formatting a battery as a negative resistor of sorts. Someone on the EF site indicated you did and wanted me to ask.

        The first run of my original setup tell us a lot about that "bad" battery I had in position 3 (reversed in series)
        1. It would take a charge....evidence...the voltage on battery three would jump to 24 volts and then go slowly down to 18, at which point the motor would come on (we have seen this happen hundreds of times trying to replicate)

        2. It wouldn't hold a charge....evidence...When the motor shut off, the voltage on battery 3 would JUMP to 24 again (from down around 9 volts) and the sequence would start over. It was acting almost like a cap, in that the instant the motor shut off, the battery would DUMP all its stored voltage and leap to that 24 volts in potential difference immediately. (We have NOT SEEN THIS happen with any batteries in our replication attempts that I know of)

        3. BUT ALSO INTERESTING TO ME
        When connected, the voltage on the battery would jump to 24 volts....it would go slowly down to 18, at which point the motor would start, and then it would go slowly down to around 8 or 9 volts. The motor would shut off and the voltage would jump back up to 24 volts

        A. Why did the motor shut off when batt 3 got down to 9 volts?
        B. Why do batteries that I try NOW level off at 12 or 13 and NEVER go down to 9?

        No answers, just lots more questions.

        Dave

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        • #19
          We are making progress on the thread at 3 Battery Generating System I had hoped we could get something rolling here where we could get the input of folks like John and Peter, but it seems that is not to be, although John was nice enough to comment at the beginning of this. We've come up with a substitute to the third battery that actually creates free electrons through a chemical process of eventually eating away one of the plates on our home made battery, but THAT can always be replaced. It produces a LOT of power...far more than you could get from two good batteries and one bad one. So for NOW it is a solution as we continue to look for the REAL solution to this problem. Since there seems to be no interest here, I doubt I will be back to post again, but you are welcome to join us on the other thread.

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          • #20
            Hi Dave,

            Let me be upfront here.. although you see so many schematics in the Bedini website..most of them are 'Patent formats' of the information that John has put in his pages, that does'nt mean whey will work as ther are shown. the 3-Battery TESLA SWITCH if you ask me i would make it a 4 Battery set -up to demostrate with the inclusion of few more components to show how gain can be brought about in the Battries. the idea is what does that configuration tell you ..? personally it took me 3 years of efforts to understand what it was.. (from 2006 to 2009)
            Rgds,
            Faraday88.
            Last edited by Faraday88; 07-16-2013, 09:45 PM.
            'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

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