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Thread: Bedini Tesla Switch DvD Questions.

  1. #201
    Junior Member
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    Nov 2013
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    Rockhampton , Australia
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    15
    hey all,
    I made the board from the tesla switch dvd by etching the board and drilling then soldering the components on to the board, had a play with diode because the amazingly the diode is unavailable i have sb5100's coming from hong kong but in Australia i tried jaycar for a few types and found in5822, 40v schottki diode with 150mv drop, also tried the normal in5408 which has a 600mv drop and tried some from a gridtie machine that died which were a 400mv drop. i noticed alot with the doide changes so much ill relook the diode in all the other bedini machines or devices ive made to see the spike more, not only more spike transferred but fastest switching and keeping the spike and an increase with the advantage with the least voltage drops in the device there was move voltage at the load pins. while im also waiting on h11d1's to come over from china ive gone with a 4n25, 4n26 to try for now, and at the moment even though i got so far in learning this device waiting for the right components, im sad, i thought ive done everything else to the letter, i made the matching transistor box so i can check the transistors for close readings and i matched the in5822's and the 2x 330 ohm's for the two opto resistors and i have one side that seems to be working more then the other which i believe to be battery 4, ive quadtruple checked the tracks and solder to see if anything is not as it should be and fixed 2-3 things and resoldered a few diodes because id touch one and things would change on the scope and then i found battery 3 connection wasnt very good so fixed that, new 2.5mm flex with new alligator clip, ive used 4x new 9v batteries and used 4x 24v nicad drill batteries i still have to rotate the batteries around every day by one, 1->2 2->4 4->3 3->1 and it will go off again for a day, ive even had fun with a rc size ufo motor on the load and ran the oscillator off the generator side of the motor just had to jump start the motor from the load pins with a 9v, still had to move the batteries around, then i though id use 6v 100ah gel cells in 12v banks that were closely charged same thingthe led on the right side is lit well the left side will flash quickly and even flash when the other side flashed so both come on together but the left was supposed to only be on and the left is much brighter, the opto's start off at the top 3v i think the second one 2v then 1v so because of this opto and the voltage drops inside then will this result in reduced turning on for the last opto and if i wanted to is there a way of boosting the voltage a bit like 500 mv on the last one to make sure its turning on right, i was going to change out the 5v reg and see about an adjustable one to change it to 6v or 7v? ive scoped the opto's and transistors im not happy with the left side middle transistor in that im no sure its opening and shutting to make the meters show (12v/24v) where the right one i can see it well. i used all new components from jaycar for optos and mjl's and still unhappy, i put an led 12v downlight on the load while i had the 24v nicads on and the left side gets the led to flash 4-5 times while on that side then a strong pulse for the right side, the scope on the load ac rectifier was seeing the spike nicely

    if anyone some ideas to check while im waiting my 4 -6 weeks for the optos and sb5100 (5amp 100v) im all ears

    thank you
    phillip

    keen as mustard for the solar tracker 5 160amp 24v to chanrge my 64 x 6v 130/225ah battery banks from my 9x 200w 24v panels

  2. #202
    Senior Member James McDonald's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    Odenton, Maryland
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    118
    Quote Originally Posted by pjreed01! View Post
    hey all,
    I made the board from the tesla switch dvd by etching the board and drilling then soldering the components on to the board, had a play with diode because the amazingly the diode is unavailable i have sb5100's coming from hong kong but in Australia i tried jaycar for a few types and found in5822, 40v schottki diode with 150mv drop, also tried the normal in5408 which has a 600mv drop and tried some from a gridtie machine that died which were a 400mv drop. i noticed alot with the doide changes so much ill relook the diode in all the other bedini machines or devices ive made to see the spike more, not only more spike transferred but fastest switching and keeping the spike and an increase with the advantage with the least voltage drops in the device there was move voltage at the load pins. while im also waiting on h11d1's to come over from china ive gone with a 4n25, 4n26 to try for now, and at the moment even though i got so far in learning this device waiting for the right components, im sad, i thought ive done everything else to the letter, i made the matching transistor box so i can check the transistors for close readings and i matched the in5822's and the 2x 330 ohm's for the two opto resistors and i have one side that seems to be working more then the other which i believe to be battery 4, ive quadtruple checked the tracks and solder to see if anything is not as it should be and fixed 2-3 things and resoldered a few diodes because id touch one and things would change on the scope and then i found battery 3 connection wasnt very good so fixed that, new 2.5mm flex with new alligator clip, ive used 4x new 9v batteries and used 4x 24v nicad drill batteries i still have to rotate the batteries around every day by one, 1->2 2->4 4->3 3->1 and it will go off again for a day, ive even had fun with a rc size ufo motor on the load and ran the oscillator off the generator side of the motor just had to jump start the motor from the load pins with a 9v, still had to move the batteries around, then i though id use 6v 100ah gel cells in 12v banks that were closely charged same thingthe led on the right side is lit well the left side will flash quickly and even flash when the other side flashed so both come on together but the left was supposed to only be on and the left is much brighter, the opto's start off at the top 3v i think the second one 2v then 1v so because of this opto and the voltage drops inside then will this result in reduced turning on for the last opto and if i wanted to is there a way of boosting the voltage a bit like 500 mv on the last one to make sure its turning on right, i was going to change out the 5v reg and see about an adjustable one to change it to 6v or 7v? ive scoped the opto's and transistors im not happy with the left side middle transistor in that im no sure its opening and shutting to make the meters show (12v/24v) where the right one i can see it well. i used all new components from jaycar for optos and mjl's and still unhappy, i put an led 12v downlight on the load while i had the 24v nicads on and the left side gets the led to flash 4-5 times while on that side then a strong pulse for the right side, the scope on the load ac rectifier was seeing the spike nicely

    if anyone some ideas to check while im waiting my 4 -6 weeks for the optos and sb5100 (5amp 100v) im all ears

    thank you
    phillip

    keen as mustard for the solar tracker 5 160amp 24v to chanrge my 64 x 6v 130/225ah battery banks from my 9x 200w 24v panels

    Hi Phillip --

    I have 780 of the Diodes Incorporated SB700 Diodes just for your information. I purchase a reel of 1200 about 1 year ago from the factory Diodes Incorporated has them made at. They were a 17 week lead time and you had to order a full reel to get them. I built the Tesla Switch also.

    -- James

  3. #203
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton , Australia
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    15
    my tesla switch sb5100 diodes have arrived and they have a 300mv drop and not 150mv drop like the one in the switch currently and my h11d1's have arrived but i havent retook a picture of the switch since changing the ics over, its still more right than left when it switches
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #204
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    Sep 2012
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    Subang Jaya, Malaysia
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    45
    Hi Folks,

    What are good batteries to use? NiCads are difficult to come by and Alkaline batteries are not really rechargeable,though JohnB mention those in the DVD. Are NiMH batteries suitable replacement/alternative?

    Thanks,

    teej_seker

  5. #205
    Senior Member John_Koorn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by teej_seeker View Post
    Hi Folks,

    What are good batteries to use? NiCads are difficult to come by and Alkaline batteries are not really rechargeable,though JohnB mention those in the DVD. Are NiMH batteries suitable replacement/alternative?

    Thanks,

    teej_seker
    JB said that LiFePO4 would be a good battery to use. You want a battery that can absorb a large current spike. I have plans to try Li-Ion as well.

    John K.

  6. #206
    Senior Member John_Koorn's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by erwei View Post
    Hi Folks,my tesla switch pcb have arrived and i have test it for some days,i use 16 1.2v NiCd battery and design a switch for switch 136/245 to 135/246 or135/246 to 136/245. i find the battery's voltage get down all two ways。


    nice looking boards erwei. I'm not sure what your numbers mean. 136/245 etc...

    John K.

  7. #207
    Hi guy's,

    Any PCB/boards available for purchasing?

    Regards,
    Ray

  8. #208
    Quote Originally Posted by Nityesh Schnaderbeck View Post
    I watched "The Bedini Tesla Switch" DVD Disk2 again, saw how John Bedini connected, the extra 4 LEDs, 2 red and 2 yellow, (not shown on the white board) on his working demonstration. The LEDs are bypassing, the diodes on the negatives of the batteries and the reverse biased LED. I have added those LEDs in my 4 Battery Bedini Tesla Switch. Shown below.



    The 4 LEDs are flashing like on John Bedini's demonstration. Now I can see the switch switching, from the indicator LEDs.

    Here are some results so far. Running without a load.

    B1 B2 B3 B4 Time
    4.85V 4.98V 4.98V 5.01V 3:00am
    4.86V 5.01V 4.99V 5.01V 3:24am
    4.86V 5.07V 5.01V 4.95V 9:05am
    4.85V 5.08V 5.01V 4.94V 10:08am
    4.86V 5.08V 5.01V 4.95V 10:50am
    4.87V 5.08V 5.01V 4.96V 11:57am
    4.88V 5.03V 5.01V 4.96V 1:56pm
    4.84V 5.06V 5.01V 4.96V 2:22pm

    Now I can see all 4 batteries changing voltages. That is a very good sign.



    If or when I get this 4 Battery Bedini Tesla Switch working, then I can apply the same, mods to the " Tri-Symmetrical 3 battery Tesla switch"


    Most
    Kindest
    Regards
    Nityesh Schnaderbeck
    Hi Nityesh,

    Great work!
    Do you have these updated diagrams available?

    Cheers,
    Ray

  9. #209
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    Pacific Northwest
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    1,877
    yes we have them available. send an email to service@teslagenx.com

    Tom C
    Quote Originally Posted by Mundo81 View Post
    Hi guy's,

    Any PCB/boards available for purchasing?

    Regards,
    Ray


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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