new bike wheel runs

[greghaa]

All,

I am starting again with a new battery for the power side and am currently tuning. Right now I am drawing about 170 ma
at about 138 RPM's. I am getting 2 pulses per pass but I did have a question about the look of the wave on the scope.

Before the wave looked very well formed and didn't have these spiked edges.

Now, as I am tuning I am seeing what looks to be correct but it is different. I was hoping someone could look
at the attached image and hopefully clue me in about what I might be missing or why it looks this way. Or maybe
a clue as to what I am doing wrong? Could it be that my leads are too long? I haven't seen it look this way before.

Thanks

[Howard Wetsman]

Greg
Is it a new scope or a new probe? Last night I was turning the calibrator screw on my probe and I could get the square wave and spike to look like yours by taking it out of calibration.
h

[greghaa]

I have had the scope for a while now, and before I went and rebuilt some things, the wave was nice and square. Now it has those strange spikes on the tips...

I guess I will just need to play with it to see what is causing this.

[greghaa]

I have it much better now but still little spikes off the top and bottom

Is this ok?

[John_Koorn]

Greg, it looks like something isn't hooked up right. The hump in the h wave is showing up just after the pulses. It should be just before the pulses. Check all your wiring and components are good and connected the right way.

John K.

[Allen R.]

Hi Greghaa and all. Are you running off a power supply or a battery? That looks like the waveform when a wall wart is used as a supply. I'm guilty of doing that myself.

al

[John_Bedini]

Greghaa,
That looks like the machine is double triggering, please hook a 10000uf cap across the input to the machine and see if it goes away. hope your not running on a power supply, The power supply is the wrong impedance for the machine.

I have it much better now but still little spikes off the top and bottom

Is this ok?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]562[/ATTACH]

[greghaa]

I used to use a power supply a while ago. I have been using batteries only for a while now, and yesterday purchased a new small car battery. A garden battery it is called.

John K. Are you referring to how the hump goes horizontal for some length before there are pulses again?

I will double check everything again.

Thanks

-greg

[greghaa]

Here is a pic of when I tune to where the grain of wheat bulb just begins to light. This is also the
sweet spot where the lowest resistance is. 200 ma and about 189 RPM. This is where it goes from
what seemed to be 2 pulses to 1.

John B., I do not have a 10k uf cap on hand. I used what I had, I have some strange ones for tube
amps that I build as a hobby, and it seemed to make the 'h' hump part go sorta pointy. This is not in the attached image though.

Thanks all,

I am gonna re-wire the connections and see if that helps at all. I will admit the leads are a little long
and I know they should be shorter. Could that have anything to do with it?

[John_Koorn]

Hey greg,

That's looking a lot bettwr. Can you post a few pictures of your setup? I'd be interested in seeing your rotor and coil/magnet gap. The more pictures the better.

John K.

[greghaa]

I will get some photos together and post them here. I am gonna clean some the connections up and will post in the next day or so.

Thanks

[greghaa]

John K

Attached are some pics. This one is of the wheel and the magnets. 18 magnets on a 24" wheel. I used
large tie wraps to go around the wheel and then smaller ones to tighten it down to keep the magnets in place.
This has worked well. I didn't want to attach the magnets permanently.



This is the gap between the coil and the magnets. Not the greatest pic but shows about 1/4" maybe 3/8".



This is the circuit. I got the leads about as short as I can. It is in a breadboard. I do have another board
I plan to transfer the circuit to and solder everything. It is just easier to make adjustments this way without soldering all the time.
Also, I am using that big 10W resistor, there is another out of the pic that is attached. I am at about 380 ohms right now.
200 ma and 190 RPM's.



And the batteries I am using. The garden battery is the primary while the other is a 5ah SLA. Once I am solid I am going to solder
the connections and make better battery attachments. The black wire is 14ga stranded. The white wire is 18 ga solid.



Again, Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Mr. Bedini, we are all in your debt.

--

[Carlos Galvis]

Greghaa,
That looks like the machine is double triggering, please hook a 10000uf cap across the input to the machine and see if it goes away. hope your not running on a power supply, The power supply is the wrong impedance for the machine.

hello all, i'm glad this issue came up, i've been running my ssg both on batteries and power supply, like my ssg is currently running at cop=.5, my primary charges the secondary half way... thanks Mr. Bedini for pointing out the difference between using battery Vs. power supply. i just probed both ways and here are the scope pictures, the first pic shows the pulses with the dc power supply, and the second shows the pulses with the battery on the front... huge difference it seems... how does it look to you guys?

[greghaa]

In that second photo, where do you have the probe connected? I have seen mine look like that but only when the probe is connected but not the grounding clip.

[Branch Gordon]

Where did you find the wrap that you have around the wheel? I tried searching for long cable ties online, and the longest I can find is 1550mm, which isn't long enough. I would like to use your method...