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Thread: Sharing experience from my first build for other's benefit

  1. #1

    Sharing experience from my first build for other's benefit

    Hi All,

    I decided it might be beneficial to post my "experimenter’s journal" here, for the benefit of those wishing to attempt their first build, but have little thought about how to go about journalling it. This by no means is the only "correct" way of going about your own experiments. It is just a quick guide to how you "could" go about your build, and consequent experimentation for your first "getting your feet wet" build. This was posted on the old yahoo forum years ago...this is the first half of it:

    Experimenter's Journal

    This project has been approached with re-purposing in mind. Much of what went into this project, for economic reasons as well as my belief that one should live as lightly on the land as possible, were salvaged items—being a good steward of what one is inherently in charge of goes a long way toward “right living.” The windings were taken from recycled TV degauss coils, the frame was used-re purposed particle board, the rotor was from my son's defunct mountain bike (has a few bends), and as much as could be re-used or recycled, was utilized in this project.

    Preliminaries

    First, I drew plans for the project (for reference purposes). Along side, I posted prints from the project manual, as well as other helpful photos. Then, after obtaining a suitable rotor (my son's 23.5 inch bike wheel), I began assembling resources...scrap wood, harvested degauss coils, threaded bar stock, etc...as well as, what equipment I had on hand to begin...saber saw, drill, hand tools, etc. Per my plan, I built the frame with the future possibility of including a small flux generator, possibly made from small round magnets glued to a CD with matching coils on another CD (don't know yet) as a load in mind. I pulled the old worn-out bearings and races out of the wheel and substituted sealed bearing units (if I did it over, I would have used regular bike hub bearings). I placed 16 ceramic magnets, per-spec, evenly onto the wheel with super glue, and wrapped the magnets on with stranded packing tape. I ordered electronic parts, and contemplated how to facilitate using the degauss coils I harvested for my bifiler. In the mean time, I built spools by taking 3/4” PVC pipe, cutting it into 4” pieces, obtained 3 1/2” PVC pipe plugs, and hole-sawed 3/4” holes, and glued them together—cups facing outward so that the actual coils would be 3.5 inches tall.. I ended up building a coil unwinder/wire straightener out of PVC (see photos uploaded to the group project files), and proceeded to fill some of the spools with different sized magnet wire from the degauss coils. I went on-line and found a site identifying wire sizes by its thickness, and used that to identify my wire sizes. Once my electronic components arrived, I assembled my first circuit. I used tinned perf-board, but decided to start over with plain perf-board, since it produced a cleaner product. I chose to use the MJL21194 transistor, since it is generally “beefier.” I wound my first coil and attached the coil wires (one wire was more difficult for reasons I will describe later). I found a “Skynet” (yup thats right, “Skynet”...hahaha...”I'll be back”...hahaha!) 12 volt power supply with three-plus amps of output at a yard sale and brought it home. I tested it and found it to produce a consistent 12.25 volts, and had enough amperage to run the wheel.

    First Runs

    I had an old riding lawnmower battery I wanted to restore, so I hooked it all up and spun the wheel. I hooked up a $50 craigslist oscilloscope and my craftsman multimeter, and watched it attempt to charge that old battery. It had only .5 volts to start, but charged (took a long time) up to 13.2. It settled back down to less than 12 volts after charging, and if left for a couple day, would loose considerable voltage. After several attempts, I decided to toss it, since it presented evidence of at least one shorted cell. Also, I noted that the wire I had trouble soldering onto the circuit, was continually coming loose. I took a closer look and found it was made of aluminum. I gunny-sacked the first coil and wound another after closely examining wire types.

    Second Attempt

    I purchased a cheap lawnmower battery, since I needed one anyway, and hooked it up with my new configuration. It didn't take long to charge it beyond 16 volts, but then again, it was already charged by conventional means. It took forever to discharge it. I decided I needed it for my lawnmower project more than this project, so I purchased a 5 amp/hour sealed lead/acid battery to do my testing with. I chose to run the battery at 80% its amp/hour rating and for this reason have documented it as if it were a 4 amp/hour battery.

    Third Time is a Charm

    I hooked up the smaller battery and spun the wheel. It began performing per spec. I did not have a panel ammeter, so I guessed at what setting the potentiometer should be set at and began “conditioning” the battery—thinking that I could do that while waiting for my newly ordered meter to arrive. Interestingly, I found that it seemed (I determined this largely by intuition) to run best (or what I thought was best, tuning-wise) just off of full steam. I discharged the battery (intuitively again) by hooking up a 200ma 12 volt lamp that draws .180 ma.. I later decided to add a small laptop computer fan to aid in discharging. After several runs (charge/discharge), I would approximate 5-7 at most, I decided to run the wheel with the battery, hooking a large 1 ohm resister on the charge side. I watched the multimeter more closely, in case it started doing something I didn't want it to do (like burn my circuit up). TALK ABOUT CRAZY! The batter voltage started somewhere near 13.38 volts, and began rising. It continued gaining voltage for a couple hours, topping off at 14.22 volts. It stayed there for a while and gradually began going down. I stopped it at 12.2 volts. I ran another charge cycle. My son showed up that next day, and I described what happened—hooking it up the way I ran it before, and it did it again! I decided to unhook it and run the regular discharge protocol...it did it again...and, AGAIN...AND AGIAN!

    Ammeter Arrived!

    Then my multimeter died—its battery ran totally out of power. I replaced the 9 volt battery in my multimeter and found that my test battery was WAY below what the meter had read prior to dying. The ammeter I had ordered, finally arrived. I ran a tuning session on my wheel and discovered that I had instinctively been setting the wheel at its sweet spot...”huh...go figure” I thought. I ran a charge session...It took a LONG time to charge to above 15.5 volts due to my previously relying on faulty voltage information from my dying multimeter.. I then ran a discharge session...it discharged normally to 12.25 volts. I feel that I can assume that the strange behavior I was making note of, prior to my changing the multimeter's battery, was simply an anomaly caused by the failing 9 volt battery. I am making my final “conditioning” charge run. We will see if the anomaly reappears, though I am almost certain that it was the low multimeter's readout at fault, and therefore I doubt it will. I am anxious to start my 20 charge/discharge cycle runs and see what happens. I am also contemplating how I want to proceed, since I have limited resources and wish to end up with a large energizer, 8 coil units or more, with 96 to over 100 circuits powering it.

    First Set of 5 Charge/Discharge Cycles

    With these first 5 runs, my goal is to attempt to consistently run the charge up to 14.5 volts on the battery, and then discharge it using a 200 ma 12 volt lamp (it actually pulls 180 ma), pulling it down to 12.25 volts (note: the power supply runs at 12.25 volts, as stated above). HOWEVER, determining when to stop the charging process at precisely 14.5 volts (or anywhere near that) has been very difficult, as it seems to take the majority of time charging the battery to 13.5-13.8 volts, and then within minutes, it's way beyond 15 volts. Setting alarms has not helped me yet, but it appears that that it takes approximately 20 hours to reach the target voltage, so I am confident that the process is happening correctly. I am determined to get a handle on this (stopping at 14.5 volts instead of letting it go past that) over the next 5 charge/discharge cycles. So far, more than not, it appears that it takes approximately .2-.235Amps to run the system (depending on whether I measure with an analog meter or a digital meter) and the battery takes about .07 amps charging. The system COP seems to hover between .30-.40, while the battery COP seems to hover near 1.2..which is great! This tells me that something is making the battery behave at an efficiency rating greater than 1 COP, even though the machine has a lower efficiency rating, somewhat near what one would expect a conventional system to function at...interesting...The “h” waves on the oscilloscope seem to show consistent 200 volt spikes. I have it tuned to run at approximately 200 RPM (depending on time of day, solar activity, etc???), and I tuned it so that the “h” waves have just stabilized from double strikes into single, with the potentiometer set at the sweet spot of approximately .2-.235 amps.(again, depending on analog or digital meter). It runs at between .36-.42 outside of the sweet spot, seemingly no mater what speed the wheel runs at. I try to zero it in as close to .2, as I can, every charge run (I have decided that I should tune the machine using the analog meter instead of digital, as the analog meter shows a steadier state).. The battery consistently takes .07 amps charging...barely a trickle...and one would think it would not be fully charged within the 20 hour time-frame, but it certainly does. OK...I will write more after 5 more cycles.
    .
    Here are some photos of that build, more to come in the second half, best regards:

    James
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 12-11-2014 at 04:52 PM.
    Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

  2. #2
    Hi all,

    Here is the second half:

    Second Set of 5 Charge/Discharge Cycles

    Mid 5-run note: This is the 8th cycle run. It seems I have narrowed down my timing in regard to “catching” the charge cycle at 14.5 volts. However, while starting this new cycle, I noticed a couple anomalies. One, the scope is registering a different looking “h” wave, and two, while tuning the sweet-spot, the energizer seemed more finicky than usual, and it ended up needing slightly higher milliamp load than normal...235+, rather than .2. I am wondering if the solar X flair and consequent CME pointed directly at Earth has something to do with it...things to ponder... It is the 9th cycle run and the machine tuned normally (sans the finicky thing)...did the solar X-flair CME caused the anomaly??? I don't know. I think I am getting my timing down pretty well. Incidentally, the batteries COP was slightly reduced, along with the machine's “finickiness.” I went a little over the last time charging due to me nodding of for a couple minutes, causing the battery to charge past my anticipated stopping point. I have my alarm set, lets see if I can get it right this time. This is end of the 9th charging cycle. Apparently, this charge cycle was quite a bit quicker, as I had set my alarm for &#189; hour prior to my anticipated end of charge, based on prior data, yet the system had already charged way beyond my target voltage...15.64 Volts, vs 14.5 Volts. I should be prepared to check on its progress far in advanced next cycle, to see if this is progressive and ongoing...Additional note: It took approximately 9&#37; less joules to charge the battery to this “overcharged point” (15.64), than it did to previously charge it to the correct voltage ( approximately 14.5). 10th charging run...it took, yet, less time to charge up past the required amount. Approximately 19.5 hours to 15.62 volts this time. I should set my alarm for 19 hour on the next charging run, as I believe that it is charging to its fullest, an entire hour and a half quicker than previously. What I learned during the second of 5 charge/discharge cycles: The battery seems to be requiring shorter and shorter periods of time to fully charge, (decreased joules, amp/hours, etc) while at the same time, it is beginning to take longer to discharge (increased output joules, amp/hours, etc). The battery COP is consistently >1 and seems to be increasing. The system COP, while still <1, seems to be slightly increasing as well. All-in-all, this set of 5 charge/discharge cycles, even though the battery has been consistently operating above 1 COP, seems to have been a tipping point, in regard to battery behavior indicating something other than standard electrical schema is in operation.

    Third Set of 5 Charge/Discharge Cycles

    Just finished the “charging” portion of cycle 12. I finally was able to “catch” the battery as it hit 14.5 volts (for the second time...with only two other times catching it close to the mark). It took 20 hours to bring the charge from 12.44 volts, up to 13.56 volts, then one more hour to bring it up to 14.5 volts. Note: the voltage, for that last hour, seemed to jump around a lot, then settle down. For instance, several times during that last hour, the voltage zoomed up past 14.5 volts, only to settle down to under 14 volts again. Though, most of the time, the voltage appeared to steadily advance. I caught the voltage at 14.5 volts (verified with a second volt meter in case I was experiencing a false reading) while on a steady rise...YEAH! During this third set of 5 charge/discharge cycles, it has become apparent that the amount of time and energy it takes to charge the battery has diminished some, while the output time/energy has generally remained the same—further indicating something happening to the battery that conventional electrical theory, does not explain.

    Final Set of 5 Charging/Discharging cycles

    I had an opportunity to observe, for over a one hour period, the end of this first of the final 5 charge/discharge cycles. It took less than 18 &#189; hours to charge past 14.5 volts this time. In fact, it took 18 hours to get to 13.78 volts, and less than a half hour to zoom up past 14.5...ending at 14.75 volts. Strangely, it only took a couple minutes to charge from 14.15 to 14.75! The battery is taking FAR less time to fully charge—a further indication that the battery is taking on a condition in favor of this “negative energy” as described by John Bedini in the “Energy From the Vacuum” educational series of DVDs.! This is the third of 5 final charging/discharging cycles. The battery took only 14 hours and 25 minutes to charge way past my 14.5 volt target—ending at 15.87 volts! WAY less time than any prior cycles. The discharge portion of the cycle seems to remain the same regardless of the fact that it now takes less than 75&#37; of the time that it used to take in order to fully charge the battery. This is further evidence supporting John Bedini's hypothesis that the batteries, while under the influence of one of these systems, take on “conditioning” favorable to the utilization of external environmental negative energy, or vacuum energy. Are the plates and electrolyte taking on negative space/time properties, creating an environment conducive to an increased in-flow of energy from the Dirac sea, as this might suggest??? All of this would make little sense to one thoroughly indoctrinated into standard electrical theory (thank God I have only 12 volt automotive experience). SWEET! This is the second to the last charging/discharging cycle run. Wow! I was expecting the system to charge up quickly past 14.5 volts again. However, the battery seems to have stopped charging at 14.3 volts, The system has been running for an hour-hour and a half at that level, with no change. I am going to assume that this is the new “full” for the battery, and am now shutting the system down to rest the battery. Hmmm...another accidental observation. I went to shut the motor down, but before doing so, I moved the large fan away from where I had placed it. I had put the fan near the circuit about an hour and a half ago. Suddenly, the battery started charging again! Go figure! Did the electromagnetic field of the tall axial rotation room fan interfere with the SSG's circuit resonance???. I will let the battery charge up to the target 14.5 volts (assuming it continues to charge).OK...the battery charge only went up to 14.35 volts, and held there for another half hour. I am now disconnecting the motor and letting the battery rest. The system has been running for almost 20 hours at this point. This is the final charging/discharging cycle. I slept through my alarm and let the energizer run for almost 22 hours. The charge voltage ended up at 15.36 volts. After resting for a couple hours, the voltage settled at 13.13 volts—one of the highest resting voltages this battery has had. Usually the output voltage lasts longer with this battery when the resting voltage is slightly higher. I am interested in how long it takes to bring the voltage down to 12.25, or so, this final discharge cycle. My hypothesis was correct. It took much longer for the battery to discharge with the resting voltage (.07 volts higher, 9.5 hours vs 8-8.5 hours).

    What I Have Learned.

    Well, the most important “thing” I learned is to not jump to conclusions when one finds anomalous situations in regard to this technology. Take a breath, walk away, check the condition of the batteries in one's test equipment, make sure they are hooked up correctly, repeat the process, and see whether the anomaly is repeated. Most of the time, and anomaly was due to equipment, rather than the project. Other than that, as the experiment went forward, it became obvious that something other than standard electricity was charging the battery...or rather “changing” the battery. It required less input to produce the same or more output. With my automotive electrical background, one would expect the opposite to occur. In an ongoing, but ever so slight way, a battery (in a “normal” electrical system) would deteriorate , in regard to its ability to charge and discharge. The fact that it takes considerably less amp/hours, or joules, to charge up, compared to the amount of amp/hours, or joules, of capacity it has to do work, shows that the battery is getting that “extra” energy from somewhere else. This factor, along with a second factor...where the battery seemed to improve over time, and not deteriorate...makes for an excellent example of what John Bedini describes as “conditioning,” where the battery takes on characteristics more conducive toward utilizing “environmental” energy from the Dirac sea, or the vacuum. This has been an awesome learning experience
    And, here are some more photos, and a spreadsheet COP calculator that helped me with my testing. If you open it up, you can see the actual calculations during the 20 charge/discharge cycles. Feel free to copy the spreadsheet and use it for your own calculations. I hope it helps, best regards.

    James
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 12-11-2014 at 04:58 PM.
    Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

  3. #3
    Nice journal entries, thanks for sharing your experience!

  4. #4
    Thank you BobZilla,

    I hope it helps someone that is getting their feet wet in John's technology...

    As for me, I wish to take this to another level--getting these units to resonate at beneficial frequencies...

    why, you might ask?

    Well, one reason might be that just about ALL other frequencies are harmful to some degree, or another. And, why not benefit from this technology in more ways than just charging batteries efficiently (since no one seems to be serious about powering their house or car with it any time soon--outhouses don't count here)???

    Sorry for the "moonshine" sarcasm...some folks don't understand my sense of humour...gotta go "tend the still" now...hehehe, yeah...

    James
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 12-14-2014 at 04:06 AM.
    Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

  5. #5
    Yes, yes I am in TUNE with what your saying ;-)

    Their have been some threads where people have talked about both pos and neg effects they have noticed but I think we all lack the equipment to really dig in and research that.One thing to keep in mind though is that as your charge batteries impedance changes so will your running frequency. Same thing with the falling primary voltage. So what I am saying in basic terms is that you have to contend with at least two changing variables unless you could make a static filter of some sort.

    I look forward to your progress with it though. I was fooling around with binaural beats a few years ago and thought it was really great but unfortunately i developed a permanent ring in my right ear!

  6. #6
    Hi BobZilla

    I appreciate your "resonance" (hehehe, "moonshine humour" again). I have been doing extensive research into this. And, feel if we encourage our circuits to resonate moving between 7Hz and 8Hz as the charging process occurs, we will see many benefits. I have been posting my postulations as I prepare for an enormous replication build. Following is a link to that thread if you would like to follow along:

    http://www.energyscienceforum.com/showthread.php?t=2046

    I feel that the "binaural beats" community has it only half right. Yes, the brain artificially entrains to those frequencies, but what one really needs is the entire body to do that...IMHO...

    Imagine walking up to your charger, and laying your hands on it, you become healthier...or imagine while in your workshop, being bathed in beneficial frequencies instead of being bombarded with harmful ones...and, imagine having your charging system near the place where you grow food...and the plants thank you by growing healthier food for you...

    How do we do that, you might ask? Hint: lets take some lessons from old-timer amateur radio guys...an antenna has a natural resonant frequency (for broadcasting and receiving). Such an antenna can be affected by harmonics, and in fact, if one were to build an antenna with a wavelength of just a fraction of the target wavelength (a harmonic), one should be able to tune for the target wavelength. A "loaded" antenna is one which is predominantly a coil. Maybe it is time we start recognizing our coils for what they really are: antennas for wavelengths of energy. Is it not true that one of the objectives is to encourage energy from outside of the circuit, to give us "gains" inside the circuit??? Just doing some musing...

    I hope you choose to collaborate in my above referenced project. I am hoping to inspire a "new page" in regard to building and operating this technology.

    Best regards, James
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 12-14-2014 at 04:05 PM.
    Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

  7. #7
    People have reported in the past that laying hands on coils helped with joint pains, some have reported both increased growth and killing of plants too. Not to many people talk about it but over the years their have been a few people who have experimented with these effects. I personally try to keep at least 10 feet or so away from a running machine accept when I'm tinkering with it. You will notice your proximity will change voltages on both the primary and the charge side, strange anomaly's I have noticed but never really locked in on how or why these things happen.

    EDIT:
    Removed video links. Don't want to jack the thread..
    Last edited by BobZilla; 12-14-2014 at 06:36 PM.

  8. #8
    Hi BobZilla

    Again, I postulate that the frequency these run at is informed mainly by the length of the antenna (coil wire strand), and that if one can get them running in a beneficial frequency, one would not need to keep them at arm's length.

    Case in point: I am attempting to replicate Nityesh's 81-filar (with changes). He stated that when he ran it without a core, the frequency was out of control and at a higher frequency. And, when he ran it with a large core, it settled down to a e frequency somewhere between 20-30 Hz. He, at my request, estimated the length of his wires at 147.35 feet based on gauge of wire (26 AWG) and ohms resistance (3 ohms). I ran another calculation (based on a chart with accurate length to resistance of wire in feet) and came up with a slightly different length. I ran calculations in regard to harmonics down to that range and came up with 25.(x) Hz for his calculations of wire length, and 27.(X) for my calculations. He has not verified those frequencies yet, but it might prove to be useful information.

    I plan to set up my own experiment, before I attempt the replication (regardless of whether or not Nityesh responds to my inquiry), using 4 strands of 18 AWG and 1 strand of 20 AWG salvaged from an old TV (do not wish to waste my good magnet wire on this) at either 117.25 feet or 120 feet (8Hz and 7.8265Hz harmonics respectfully). I will employ a way to vary the core size using soft steel shotgun pellets, coated in acrylic paint (should be better than welding rod for keeping eddy-currents down) and see if I cant tune that puppy between 7-8Hz, since core size seems to play a role in coil inductance, and therefore speed at which it oscillates...I will be posting this experiment at the above mentioned thread. In fact, it might be best to move this conversation there since, it is off-topic here...

    Best regards, James

    BTW, I could not open your videos, due to them being "Windows" files. I find it amazing that experimenters continue to use Windows, since the fine print states they own anything you create on their software...and that the "Bill Gates" NWO dudes don't like anything open-source...such as Bedini tech...I use Ubuntu 12.04, because there is a huge "engineering community" supporting Ubuntu, and one can download very useful open-source programs, generally for free...something for you to contemplate.
    Last edited by James_Somewhere_In_Idaho; 12-14-2014 at 06:03 PM.
    Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

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