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Thread: SG8 Pot location

  1. #81
    2 other PPL helped me write the very first Bedini SG/SSG Build and Charging guide. I Kept it updated with the things I was learning until 2012.... now the SG Handbooks are Bedini / PL approved Guides.....

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    I do not have the intermediate handbook... As i built most of the stuff in it, way before it was written.....

    so it includes a bill of materials for all the part values...?

    I looked at my Pulser Sch's and have 220 ohms on the Gates and a 10K pull down resistor.....


    forgot that the rise time part of a real fast sharp signal, acts like the skin effect in high Freq circuits....... This is also a good reason to have short fat traces, so that the inductance is as low as possable....
    page 46-48 shows the discharge circuit parts and specs very precisely, my PCB is based on that...

    PCB ready for etching...
    PCB_PCBetching_20180524222147.pdf
    Last edited by claudio; 05-24-2018 at 01:44 PM.

  3. #83
    Looking good,
    I would still make the 100uf cap a bigger size component pad spacing and, change the other small cap to match......
    make the holes on the all the resistors, pot's, small transistors, and small caps a little bigger, and i think you will be ready to have boards made......
    Last edited by RS_; 05-24-2018 at 01:50 PM.

  4. #84
    one other thing i would do, is add a LED and resistor to the output of the 555, so you can see how fast it is dumping the caps

  5. #85
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    one other thing i would do, is add a LED and resistor to the output of the 555, so you can see how fast it is dumping the caps
    I have done this too!!very impressive and indicative of how the dump is taking place!
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Teaching can endure a quest for knowledge..but Learning solves an anomaly'

  6. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    one other thing i would do, is add a LED and resistor to the output of the 555, so you can see how fast it is dumping the caps
    will do !
    between the 555 output and R12 (10k) ? what kind of resistor ?

    this circuit is more and more similar to the JB "original"...


    PCB_PCBetching_20180528100158.pdf
    Last edited by claudio; 05-28-2018 at 01:08 AM.

  7. #87
    put a 330ohm 1/4W resistor in parallel with the 330ohm that is hooked up to the opto, and the new LED in parallel with the LED in the opto to the Pos rail, then the new LED will operate the same as the LED in the opto....

  8. #88
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    put a 330ohm 1/4W resistor in parallel with the 330ohm that is hooked up to the opto, and the new LED in parallel with the LED in the opto to the Pos rail, then the new LED will operate the same as the LED in the opto....
    I'm a little confused here...
    One or two LEDs ?
    Am I getting this correctly ?

    PCB_PCBetchLED_20180529093326.pdf

  9. #89
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    I'm a little confused here...
    One or two LEDs ?
    Am I getting this correctly ?

    PCB_PCBetchLED_20180529093326.pdf
    If I may slip my 2 cents in here, pins 1 and 2 of your optocoupler go to an infrared (invisible light) LED inside the optocoupler. That's the "other" LED that RS is referring to. You are running a 330 ohm resistor to it. In an optocoupler circuit that I built (for an unrelated application) I added a second red LED (green or amber is OK but white or blue requires a higher voltage and would further complicate things at this point so best stick with red) to tell me when it was on, similar to what RS is suggesting you do here. But I put my second LED in series with the optocoupler pin 2 which would require reducing the 330 ohm resistor to around 150 ohms and no second resistor would be necessary. 10 milliamps (0.010 amps) should be sufficient to operate the optocoupler LED but don't run any lower. That way you will be guaranteed to notice if the optcoupler's internal LED burned out (unlikely but possible and also reassuring) since current will no longer flow through the red LED as well if the optocoupler LED dies since they would be in series.
    Sometimes, little details like this extra LED makes troubleshooting so much quicker and easier. And we all like blinking lights.

  10. #90
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    If I may slip my 2 cents in here, pins 1 and 2 of your optocoupler go to an infrared (invisible light) LED inside the optocoupler. That's the "other" LED that RS is referring to. You are running a 330 ohm resistor to it. In an optocoupler circuit that I built (for an unrelated application) I added a second red LED (green or amber is OK but white or blue requires a higher voltage and would further complicate things at this point so best stick with red) to tell me when it was on, similar to what RS is suggesting you do here. But I put my second LED in series with the optocoupler pin 2 which would require reducing the 330 ohm resistor to around 150 ohms and no second resistor would be necessary. 10 milliamps (0.010 amps) should be sufficient to operate the optocoupler LED but don't run any lower. That way you will be guaranteed to notice if the optcoupler's internal LED burned out (unlikely but possible and also reassuring) since current will no longer flow through the red LED as well if the optocoupler LED dies since they would be in series.
    Sometimes, little details like this extra LED makes troubleshooting so much quicker and easier. And we all like blinking lights.
    Thank you Richard,

    is this the idea ?

    PCB_PCBetchLED2_20180529171440.pdf

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